The "DEMOB" Suit and the developement of mass production in tailoring

Returning home at the end of Second World War, men were offered by demobilisation a three piece suit, which became known as the "demob suit" ...
This played an very strong role in the increasing of mass production tailoring ...
Burton, a clothing company, produced one third of all the demob suits, and even originated the popular expression ... the full monty ...("a full three-piece suit with waistcoat and a spare pair of trousers (as opposed to a standard two-piece suit) from the Leeds-based British tailors Montague Burton. When the British forces were demobilised after WWII, they were issued with a "demob suit". The contract for supplying these suits was fulfilled by Montague Burton, so the complete suit of clothes issued to the servicemen was known as "the full Monty".)





The Company was founded by Montague Burton in Chesterfield in 1903 under the name of The Cross-Tailoring Company. It was first listed on the London Stock Exchange in 1929 by which time it had 400 stores, factories and mills.

The Burton Company archives are held at West Yorkshire Archive Service, Leeds.

The Company had a large factory in Leeds which was visited by the Princess Royal in 1934.

After World War II Montague Burton offered men the chance to buy a full suit, which included jacket, trousers, waistcoat, shirt and underwear and became known as 'The Full Monty'.




Around 10,000 people worked on the site, producing over 30,000 suits a week. Burton was the biggest employer in Leeds.

Hudson Road was the heart of Montague Burton's empire. He chose Leeds because it was the centre of Britain’s textile industry and so he had access to skilled tailors and machinists.
Burton’s secret was to offer high-quality made-to-measure suits at low prices. "A five guinea suit for 55 shillings", was Burton’s promise.



Men would start work at 14 years of age as barrow boys, then be apprenticed as tailors or cutters.

However, men were outnumbered 10 to one by women. There were vast workrooms of machinists, with whole families working on the same production line.
The factory was described by former tailor, Sam Bernstein, as "a town in itself".
Burton made every effort to keep his staff happy - Hudson Road had the largest works canteen in the world, along with a pre-welfare state health and pension scheme.
Free dentists, chiropodists and even sun-ray treatment were provided for factory staff.





At the end of the Second World War, all servicemen returning home were issued with a set of civilian clothing, including a three piece suit. Many of the suits were made by the Leeds firm of Burtons. This was founded at the start of the 20th century by a Lithuanian Russian migrant Jew, Montague Burton (1885-1952), who initially established shops selling bespoke and ready-to-wear suits in Sheffield and Mansfield. As the business expanded Leeds became the manufacturing centre for the company. Montague Burton was knighted for services to industry in 1931, going on to endow chairs at several universities, including Leeds.
During the Second World War Burton's firm made a quarter of all British military uniforms. After the war Burtons continued as a successful business selling men's suits and clothing.

Yes ... If The Queen ... wears it ....

My own Barbour ... is 20 Years old ... and fully "patched"in the sleeves ...

I Am Back ... with Barbour (3)

Since 2004, Lord James Percy, younger brother of the Duke of Northumberland, has been involved in the design and marketing of the company's flagship shooting clothing.
Bellow, Lord James Percy illustrates the incredible resistance of this ultimate country garment...

I am back ... with Barbour (2)

The first Barbour Heritage store opened its doors in September 2009.
Located in 29 Fouberts Place, just off Carnaby Street in the Newburgh Quarter, London W1, the store is set over two floors, featuring men’s and ladies clothing from Barbour’s unique Heritage collection. Inspired by the rich archive of clothing and catalogues going back to 1908, the collection features garments influenced by Barbour’s long design history. Point of sale and memorabilia in the store will carry images from Barbour’s archive and a visit is a must for any fashion connoisseur.
Ian Beattie, UK Sales and Marketing Director, Barbour said “As an authentic heritage brand, we wanted to take the opportunity to showcase a focused collection to a fashion savvy consumer who is interested in wearing contemporary garments that have been developed from the brand’s history and heritage. Barbour has been producing quality clothing, fit for purpose, since 1894 and customers recognise that our craftsmanship and tradition make a Barbour jacket unique.”
An essential element of the store is Barbour’s long association with motorcycling. From 1936 to 1977, the Barbour name was synonymous with trials biking and Barbour biker suits were worn by virtually every British International motorcycle team during that period. In the 1954 International Six Days Trial (ISDT), nearly three-quarters of all competitors wore them. As a member of the elite US team, actor and racer Steve McQueen wore a Barbour International suit in the 1964 East German ISDT. They were used in other areas of motorcycle sport too, by army motorcycle display teams and by the patrolmen of 14 different police forces.
The Heritage collection is inspired by this history and at the heart of it is the iconic wax cotton International Jacket which is based on these authentic motorcycle designs. The range also features knitwear, trousers, shirts and accessories that complement the outerwear to make a capsule wardrobe collection steeped in history.
29 Fouberts Place
off Carnaby Street
London
Central London
W1F 7QF

I am back ... with Barbour (1)

J. Barbour & Sons Ltd is a British clothing manufacturer and importer, founded in South Shields, best known for making waterproof and outdoor clothing, often associated with the sport of hunting. The company was founded in 1894 by John Barbour, from Galloway, Scotland, who began selling oilskins in the port of South Shields. The firm prides itself on its reputation for high quality, hard-wearing clothing, and holds royal warrants to supply "waterproof and protective clothing" to HM Queen Elizabeth II, HRH The Duke of Edinburgh, and HRH The Prince of Wales.

Barbour clothing is noted for rugged construction and appearance. In addition to its waxed and quilted jackets, the company produces sweaters, moleskin clothing, corduroy clothing, and tattersall shirts. It has also entered the "waterproof-breathable" market with own type waterproof liners, cordura external fabric and polar fleece sweaters.

It is not uncommon for customers to keep Barbour waxed jackets for many years, sometimes decades. Among such people, the wear-and-tear on the garment can be addressed by Barbour’s repair service, which patches and reinforces jackets that are sometimes in excess of fifty years old. Owners of such items find their age and age-associated repairs to be part of the garment's charm.

In recent years, however, the company has tried to modernize its range towards a younger and stylish image, while maintaining the countryside range for which it is renowned, and keeping the attention to details and features which cannot always be found on other brands such as snug-fitting collars, "storm cuffs", waterproof pockets with drainage holes and wide "game" pockets.

The mainstay wax-cotton jackets continue to be proudly made in Britain. Most of the other lines are now imported.

Since 2004, Lord James Percy, younger brother of the Duke of Northumberland, has been involved in the design and marketing of the company's flagship shooting clothing.