Saturday, 31 August 2024
Friday, 30 August 2024
Can Tim Walz’s wardrobe win the White House?
The
vice-president nominee’s workwear is a central conversation on the election
trail. It’s not the first time fashion has become political
Ellie Violet
Bramley
Thu 29 Aug
2024 12.00 EDT
https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/article/2024/aug/29/can-a-wardrobe-win-the-white-house
Let’s play
the word association game. What do you think of when you read the following?
Plaid. Workwear. Camo. If it isn’t words such as practical, hardwearing,
hunting or fishing then you’ve been drinking from fashion’s well for too long.
Because while in recent years luxury labels have turned all of the above into
catwalk fodder, these are the clothes equivalents of agriculture, land, the
great outdoors.
They also
just happen to be the cornerstones of vice-president nominee Tim Walz’s style.
He wore an LL Bean barn jacket while on a farm last November, and was spotted
in a camouflage cap after he got the call from Kamala Harris asking him to be
her running buddy. His wardrobe is all Carhartt, fleeces, jeans, Red Wing boots
and worn-in T-shirts.
Because,
offstage and off-duty, away from the national stage and at home in Minnesota,
Tim Walz is “a regular guy”. Or, a regular Nebraska-born former high school
football coach with a gun licence, a penchant for ice fishing and 24 years in
the National Guard under his well-worn leather belt, an extra hole teased into
it with a Swiss army knife.
Commentators
have been quick to define his style as possessing “a kind of down-home lack of
fuss” and his vibe as “a white guy who exudes midwestern dad energy”. He can
wear the kind of quote unquote normal clothes that many voters wear and not
look like he is trying to cosplay as a salt-of-the-earth kind of guy. He wears
patinated Carhartt with the ease of someone who has been wearing it for years.
He wears clothes to actually do the thing they were intended for, not to
weaponise whatever said thing is symbolic of – hunting clothes to hunt, for
instance, as opposed to hunting clothes on the campaign trail in a bid to
harness the optics of hunting. “Democrats want to foreground that he wears
these clothes not to appeal to a middle-class voter from middle America; he
wears them because he is a middle-class voter from middle America,” wrote
Washington Post fashion writer Rachel Tashjian in a recent column.
But most of
all, commentators – and the Democrats keen to translate workwear jackets into
“blue wall” votes – have been keen to flag the authenticity of his plaid and
boots. “You can tell those flannel shirts he wears don’t come from some
political consultant,” said former president Barack Obama recently. “They come
from his closet – and they have been through some stuff.” This kind of rural
sartorial “authenticity” isn’t the kind of thing you can buy. It just is. And,
realistically, sartorial authenticity to many male politicians is navy blue
suits and ties and not the hard hats and big boots they favour for site visits
and more masculine-coded events.
Others have
succeeded in signalling their own brand of authenticity – whatever that looks
like in their case – long before Walz was mentioned as a prospective ticket
mate. Bernie Sanders, for one. As Guardian columnist Jonathan Freedland said
back in 2020 of the Vermont scruffbag-millionaire: “A politician who does not
appear to have been styled by advisers … immediately conveys through their
dress that they are different – that they are their own person, that they
listen to their conscience rather than to spin doctors and handlers, that they
are people of principle and conviction and that, perhaps, they care too deeply
about serious issues to be bothered with such trivia as their personal
appearance.”
Many
politicians before have tried to style or spend their way out of appearing
elitist or out-of-touch. On that side of the Atlantic, there was Florida
governor Ron DeSantis who looked like an alligator out of water in fishing
shirts on the campaign trail or Texas governor Rick Perry wearing a too-stiff
barn jacket. On this side, any excuse to bring up William Hague on a log flume
in a baseball cap with “HAGUE” on it. And Rishi Sunak, who could no more hide
that he is a quarter-zip sweater kind of guy with a fortune of £650m than he
could make anyone believe that he had owned the enormous Timberland boots he
wore to speak to Border Force crews “for ages”. In truth, he couldn’t win: he
was also lambasted for wearing Prada loafers to a building site, which were far
more authentically him. It isn’t just a pitfall for rightwing politicians: see
former barrister Keir Starmer in military fatigues for one example.
There is
very much a double standard here. As Tashjian writes: “It’s funny to imagine a
political party foregrounding a woman’s down-to-earth wardrobe: we just love
the senator for wearing those Lululemon leggings. To be taken more seriously,
at this level of politics, a man dresses down and a woman dresses up.” It’s a
good point – in fact, maybe it is why Kamala Harris’s Converse seem to have
been taking a back seat.
There is
another layer to all of this, because how much any of Walz’s authentic workwear
will actually translate into rural votes is yet to be seen. But it certainly
feels like a stronger sartorial bid than most and one that may well do the
unthinkable, making politicians’ style something to aspire to rather than
deride, something that causes a spike in Carhartt or peak in plaid as opposed
to killing off a look, as Sunak did to Sambas. Are we about to see the Walz
effect? Only time will tell.
Thursday, 29 August 2024
The Heritage Post Trade Show No. 4
https://the-heritage-post-trade-show.de/en/4-the-heritage-post-trade-show/
IT WAS A FEAST FOR US
On May 25 and 26, 2024, the 4th The Heritage Post
Trade Show took place at the Areal Böhler in Düsseldorf – again with a great
response! Many thanks to all exhibitors and visitors who took part.
If you weren’t able to join us this time, think of the
show as a unique traveling department store: There are authentic clothes, good
shoes, delicious drinks, fine suits, great dresses, natural cosmetics, accurate
watches, unique jewelry, awesome bikes, unusual toys, sharp knives, exceptional
decor, beautiful writing instruments, high-quality accessories, equipment for
our four-legged friends, beguiling perfumes and much more.
Where else can you find such beautiful, diverse and
passionately crafted products in one place? As in our magazine The Heritage
Post, which we have been publishing for ten years now, the common denominator
is quality and individuality.
Tuesday, 27 August 2024
10 years ago: THE HUNT - Documentary / Fox Hunters in the U.K. Want Protected Status Under Discrimination Law
Fox
Hunters in the U.K. Want Protected Status Under Discrimination Law
A
lobbying group is preparing a bid to define hunting with animals as a protected
belief. Many experts have questions.
Amelia
Nierenberg
By Amelia
Nierenberg
Reporting
from London
Aug. 26,
2024
Updated 9:23
a.m. ET
https://www.nytimes.com/2024/08/26/world/europe/uk-fox-hunting-ban-status.html
English fox
hunters have tried, for years, to push back against a nearly 20-year-old ban on
their beloved sport.
The
centuries-old tradition of using packs of dogs to chase and kill foxes — or any
wild mammals — became illegal in England in 2005, after a long parliamentary
struggle driven by campaigners and lawmakers who opposed it on animal welfare
grounds.
So far, the
law has stood, and fox hunting remains hugely unpopular among the general
public: 80 percent of people in Britain think it should remain illegal,
according to YouGov, a polling company.
Now, a
pro-hunting activist has a new plan of attack.
Ed Swales,
the activist, founded Hunting Kind, a lobby group that aims to protect hunting
with dogs and other forms of hunting, in early 2022. He wants to use Britain’s
Equality Act — which protects people from discrimination because of their age,
race, sexuality or religion, among other things — to classify a pro-hunting
stance as a protected belief.
That would
put it in the same legal category as atheism, pacifism, ethical veganism, and,
ironically, a moral opposition to fox hunting.
“If he’s
‘anti-hunt,’ well, you can be ‘hunt,’” Mr. Swales said. “It’s just the same
law.”
Mr. Swales,
55, said he was preparing to bring a series of anti-discrimination lawsuits in
the hope of setting a legal precedent that could, eventually, help reverse the
fox-hunting ban.
“We’ve been
doing this for millennia,” he said. Hunting is “literally part of our cultural
heritage.”
Hunting
itself is not illegal in England. Shooting deer, rabbits, duck and some other
animals is allowed during hunting seasons, with permission from the landowner
and a gun license.
But the
hunting community is bracing for an anticipated challenge by Britain’s new
Labour government, which pledged to ban trail hunting — where dogs follow a
deliberately laid scent trail, usually of fox urine, instead of a real fox — in
its election platform.
The British
Hound Sports Association, which promotes and governs hunting with dogs in the
U.K., says that by simulating traditional fox hunting, trail hunting allows the
community to continue “to support the sport they love” despite the ban.
But animal
rights activists say trail hunting can be a smoke screen for illegal fox
hunting, because trails frequently run through land where foxes live, and
foxhounds cannot always tell the difference between a fox and an artificial
scent.
Last year,
Chief Superintendent Matt Longman, England’s police lead on fox hunting, said
that illegal hunting was “still common practice,” with trail hunts frequently
taking place in natural fox habitats.
“Foxes often
end up getting caught and killed by the dogs regardless,” said Josh Milburn, a
lecturer in political philosophy at Loughborough University who studies animal
rights.
Late last
month, Mr. Swales sent out a survey to fellow hunters to try to find potential
discrimination cases. He said many shared instances of verbal abuse or
intimidation during recent hunting excursions. And this year, two venues
canceled events for trail hunting groups after campaigns from anti-hunting
activists. “They got told, ‘We are canceling you because we got so much
pressure from the anti-hunt brigade,’” Mr. Swales said.
Some experts
said that the planned discrimination lawsuits were a distraction from the
debate over animal rights, which hunters with dogs have already lost in the
court of public opinion. “In making this argument that fox hunters are the
persecuted group, they’re trying, I think, to shift the conversation from
talking about foxes to talking about people,” Dr. Milburn said.
Others
questioned the idea that those who hunt with dogs — a community that has
traditionally included some of Britain’s wealthiest landowners — needed special
protection.
“Here we
have an argument being made that in fact some of the most privileged in our
society should also be protected on the basis of their shared activity chasing
and killing a terrified wild animal,” Edie Bowles, the executive director of
the Animal Law Foundation, a legal research charity, wrote in an email.
Several
lawyers and academics who study discrimination said Mr. Swales’s argument might
have some success, but the bar would be high. Under Britain’s 2010 Equality
Act, a protected characteristic must “be a belief and not an opinion or
viewpoint” and it must “not conflict with the fundamental rights of others.”
“The test
requires that the belief be genuinely held and that it be sufficiently cogent
and weighty and coherent,” said Colm O’Cinneide, a professor of constitutional
and human rights law at University College London. A mere political opinion
would not pass muster, he said: “There needs to be some sort of belief
structure or framework.”
Experts said
that a protected belief could be easier to argue than trying to define hunters
as a minority ethnic group — like Sikhs, Roma or Jews — which Mr. Swales has
also proposed.
Speaking at
a public event in late July, he claimed that his advisers had told him that
“the qualifications of an ethnic group, there are five of them — we hit every
one, straight in the bull’s-eye,” which he reiterated in interviews with The
New York Times.
“The legal
assessment is that we would qualify for both categories,” he said on Thursday.
But he has
since backed off from the idea of starting with the minority group argument,
saying his team would prepare protected belief arguments instead. “Pick the
lowest hanging fruit first,” he said, paraphrasing his legal team.
Hunters have
already tried, and failed, to argue that bans infringe upon their rights.
In 2007, a
belief in fox hunting was explicitly denied protection in Scotland’s courts,
where a judge found that “a person’s belief in his right to engage in an
activity which he carries on for pleasure or recreation, however fervent or
passionate,” did not compare to protected beliefs or religion, and therefore
would not be covered under human rights law.
And in 2009,
the European Court of Human Rights unanimously ruled that the ban on fox
hunting with dogs did not violate human rights.
“If hunting
can be shown to be more than a recreational activity, perhaps as part of a
belief system in human supremacy over animals or human dominion over the earth,
then a protected belief system could work,” Dr. John Adenitire, who teaches
animal rights law at Queen Mary, University of London, wrote in an email.
For Mr.
Swales, it is now or never.
His push
comes after years of stewing about restrictions on hunting — without, he says,
enough of a fight back from the hunting community.
“All we do
is sit here and talk about it and drink sherry and bemoan and bewail our
situation,” he said. “And nobody actually does anything.”
Amelia
Nierenberg is a breaking news reporter for The Times in London, covering
international news More about Amelia Nierenberg
Monday, 26 August 2024
The Rebel's Wardrobe, by THOMAS STEGE BOJER and BRYAN SZABO
By Gestalten (Editor), Bryan Szabo (Editor), Thomas
Stege Bojer (Editor)
Comprising THOMAS STEGE BOJER and BRYAN SZABO,
Denimhunters is one of the internet's premier denim and heritage menswear
authorities. It was founded in 2012 by Stege Bojer, who now serves as the
editor-in-chief. Experienced writer and editor Szabo is a contributor to the
site, and notably spearheads the writing and research for the Well Made
Essentials rugged menswear buying guide.
Immersing readers in the world of men’s fashion, The
Rebel's Wardrobe explores the surprising origins of our everyday staple items
and how they became timeless classics.
From the plain white T-shirt developing into the
everyday hero, to the leather jacket cementing its place as a global icon or
the chino being originally produced for military purposes, this modern menswear
lexicon uses fashion to look at pop culture over the last 100 years, making
links between seemingly disparate groups from military to sports.
https://denimhunters.com/author/thomasbryan/
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