Tuesday, 15 April 2025

Inside Arterton / VIDEO: The Ultimate Cleaning Shoe Brush - Wild Boar Bristles from Paul Brunngard


Inside Arterton, a London Menswear Shop That You Can Leave With Everything But Clothes

 

The London-based accessories brand celebrates community and craft with a new showroom and lounge in the Princes Arcade

 



Published on March 11, 2024

By Eric Twardzik

 https://robbreport.com/style/menswear/arterton-london-store-1235541416/

 

 Arterton sells everything a dedicated clotheshorse could want—except clothes. Rather, it trades in what founder William Wong lovingly dubs “desiderata”, a Latin word translating to “things desired.”

 

If that sounds vague, shoppers can now see such objects of desire firsthand at the new Arterton showroom at 12 Princes Arcade, which opened in December. Within its small, high-ceilinged space, wooden cabinets are stocked with shoe creams by the Swedish maker Paul Brunngard, eco-friendly stain removers from Britain’s Clothes Surgeon, and shapely beechwood clothes hangers made by Japan’s Nakata Hanger.

 

Above them, boxes that hold snuff suede Chelsea boots made in India by Bridlen or hand-welted oxfords from China’s Yearn Shoemaker are stacked to the ceiling. Luckily, a solid walnut library ladder rests against the merchandising cabinet for staff to retrieve them.

 

Arterton may have stitched together a veritable United Nations of fine clothing accessories, but it all began with a garment bag. Or rather, the lack thereof. Unimpressed with what the market had to offer, Wong—then a PhD student at Cambridge—decided to design his own. The result was released in 2021 as Arterton’s first and still best-selling product, the signature garment bag made from 10 oz waxed cotton with a dual-zip opening and holes enough to accommodate three hangers.

 

“Sometimes you want a very specific thing, but you can’t find it,” says Wong of the business’s genesis.

 

Now, it’s not entirely true that clients can’t purchase clothing at Arterton—they just can’t walk out of the door with it. The showroom also serves as the permanent workspace for Matthew Gonzalez, a California native who was for years the only American-born tailor on the Row, where he cut his teeth cutting for Hunstman before striking out on his own. The expat now practices his signature Anglo-American cut in a mezzanine visible to showroom visitors, who might catch Gonzalez cutting a pattern or constructing a basted fitting with a cast-iron sewing machine.

 

Gonzalez’s elevated, front-and-center position is an inversion of the typical Savile Row experience, where tailors work underground and out of sight. “I think there is something really beautiful about walking in and seeing all of these amazing products at your eye level, and then having the symbolic craft above you,” Gonzalez tells Robb Report.

 



The Arterton experience continues across the hall at 13 Princes Arcade, which serves as a private lounge for Wong and Gonzalez’s clients. Hidden from street level, visitors may access it by mounting a spiral staircase that opens to a pocket-sized space with plush carpeting, a well-stocked bar, and a set of vintage McIntosh speakers. It’s a fitting backdrop for customers—or as Wong calls them, “enthusiasts”— to commission a new jacket (£3,750, or about $4,800) or suit (£5,100, around $6,500) from Gonzalez, or a customized accessory like an embroidered garment bag, an engraved Nakata hanger or a made-to-order shoe in a particular leather.

 

Just as importantly, it serves as a retreat where the Arterton community can kick back with a good scotch or a double espresso in hand. “When you’re sitting in this space, you instantly forget that there is the hustle and bustle of Picadilly that’s just 50 yards away,” Gonzalez says. “It really does feel like an oasis.”

 

In the year to come, Arterton’s desiderata will grow with new lines including its first-ever luggage offering, consisting of a briefcase and weekender made from waxed cotton with leather trimmings. Gonzalez, meanwhile, is planning for his first trunk shows on American soil. But for now, anyone with a desire for the finer things will be well-served with a visit to 12 and 13 Princes Arcade.

 

Eric Twardzik

Eric Twardzik is a Boston-based freelance writer with a passion for classic menswear and classic cocktails. He has a deep reverence for things that get better with age, such as tweed jackets and single malt scotch. In addition to Robb Report, his writing has appeared in GQ, Condé Nast Traveler, Vice, WM Brown, and many other websites and publications. He has far too many ties and not enough occasions to wear them.


Monday, 14 April 2025

Retailers Face Tough Questions.

 




Raise Prices? Eat Higher Costs? Retailers Face Tough Questions.

 

A trade war with China and tariff threats on other countries are ramping up pressure on stores that sell products from overseas — which, for some categories, is just about all of them.

 

Ken Belson Karen Weise

By Ken Belson and Karen Weise

April 12, 2025, 5:03 a.m. ET

https://www.nytimes.com/2025/04/12/business/retailers-tariffs-uncertainty.html

 

Vivian Hoffman has worked in retail for a half-century, including 25 years as a buyer for Century 21 and the last eight running Whim, a chain selling affordable women’s clothing in the suburbs of New York City. She has adapted to recessions, the turmoil after the attacks on Sept. 11, 2001, and the Covid-19 pandemic.

 

But the last few weeks have presented a set of challenges that are confounding even for an industry veteran.

 

The bulk of the clothing and accessories that Ms. Hoffman sells are produced in China, facing import duties of 145 percent for now, and Vietnam, which could face high tariffs in a few months. While her vendors pay the tariffs, one of them recently raised shoe prices 20 percent while others say they will soon increase theirs to offset higher costs. A vendor that sells Chinese-made jeans could not even figure out what prices to put on items in its fall line.

 

The upheaval on top of wavering consumer demand has left Ms. Hoffman in a bind.

 

“I was going back and forth: Do I buy less because I think business is going to be hurt or do I try to buy extra merchandise because I’m afraid of an increase in prices?” she said. “I’ve been going back and forth between two extremes.”

 

With five stores and a small online presence, Whim is just a speck in the vast retail universe. But the thorny decisions that Ms. Hoffman faces are a microcosm of the whiplash that retailers across the United States are confronting. All businesses crave clarity, yet the wide-ranging tariffs imposed, threatened and pulled back by the White House are making it difficult for companies of all sizes and shapes to plan ahead.

 

Big-box retailers like Walmart and Target and giant e-commerce operators like Amazon have the power to demand concessions from their suppliers overseas. Andy Jassy, Amazon’s chief executive, said in an interview on CNBC on Thursday that the company had accelerated bringing some inventory to the United States ahead of the tariffs and would try to “renegotiate terms” with some suppliers.

 

Most retailers, though, are small, independent businesses that are often at the mercy of their vendors. And in many industries, like apparel, most of what they sell is produced in China and other countries, with few options they can afford made in the United States.

 

Alyssa Chambers, who owns Nova Essence IO, which makes scented candles, said the price of a 12-pack of Chinese-made glass candle jars had jumped to $25, from $21 last year. But similar jars produced in America cost at least twice as much, she said. Even before this week’s events, the costs of wax and wicks, which she also orders from China, have risen as well.

 

“Right now, I’m eating the extra cost for the supplies because I just don’t want the customers to be affected,” said Ms. Chambers, who works on her own and sells her goods online and at pop-up shops, shows and events. “I’m just taking the time to sacrifice and not respond emotionally.”

 

The start-and-stop nature of the rollout of tariffs has also roiled the stock market and dampened consumer confidence as people have hunkered down. Retail sales grew 0.2 percent in February compared to January, though spending on clothing and accessories, on electronics and at restaurants and bars fell.

 

The University of Michigan Consumer Sentiment Index fell 11 percent in March, the third straight monthly decline, to its lowest level since November 2022. Anxiety about rising prices could persuade consumers to buy more secondhand apparel and other items on the secondary market, according to ReturnPro, which recently surveyed consumers about products they had returned. Nearly 85 percent said they were concerned that tariffs would raise prices.

 

“Consternation over the tariffs and its impact on consumer sentiment on retail sales could end up being worse than the impact of inflation,” said David Silverman, senior director of the corporates group at Fitch Ratings, which this week lowered its rating for the U.S. retail and consumer product sector to “deteriorating” from “neutral.”

 

The latest increases in tariffs on China are likely to disproportionately hurt consumer goods, according to Anna Wong, an economist at Bloomberg.

 

Last year, three-quarters of all toys and sporting goods, 40 percent of all footwear and 25 percent of all textiles and clothing imported into the United States came from China, according to the Peterson Institute for International Economics.

 

For months, many companies have tried to adjust their business plans in anticipation of tariffs, with varying success. The shoemaker Steve Madden said in February that it had reduced the percentage of goods it imported from China to 58 from 71 since November. The company wants to reduce that number to the low 40s range in the coming months.

 

“We will selectively raise prices,” Edward Rosenfeld, the company’s chief executive, told investors in February. “Where we think that we can get a little bit more for the goods, we will do that starting in the fall.”

 

At an investor conference this week, Walmart, the country’s largest retailer, stood by its forecast for a 3 to 4 percent increase in sales in its first quarter. But because one-third of what Walmart sells comes from all over the world, especially China and Mexico, tariffs have made it harder to predict operating income growth.

 

“We’re one week into this new tariff environment, and we’re still working through what this means for us,” John David Rainey, Walmart’s chief financial officer, said. “For the current quarter, the uncertainty and decline in consumer sentiment has led to a little more sales volatility week to week and, frankly, day to day.”

 

In the days after the tariffs were first announced, Amazon canceled orders for some items, including skateboards, that it bought from suppliers through a special program, according to one vendor whose orders were canceled, two consultants to suppliers and LinkedIn posts from others saying their orders were canceled.

 

Under the special program, vendors sold their products to Amazon at a lower price, but Amazon paid to move the products to the United States and was on the hook to cover the tariff costs directly. When that tariff risk changed, Amazon effectively pushed more of the costs back onto its suppliers by canceling the orders. Now, the suppliers must import the products themselves, pay the tariffs and then try to renegotiate a higher wholesale price with Amazon.

 

Amazon declined to comment on the canceled orders, which were reported earlier by Bloomberg.

 

Hobby Lobby, the crafting retailer, told vendors that because of the escalating trade war and the “rapidly shifting and unpredictable landscape,” it was delaying shipments from China, though not canceling orders, according to correspondence dated Thursday and viewed by The New York Times. It said it would review its plans weekly. Hobby Lobby did not have an immediate comment.

 

Smaller retailers, no matter how well prepared, don’t have Amazon’s muscle or flexibility. Kim Vaccarella, the founder of Bogg, which sells handbags and accessories, anticipated tariffs on China, where all of her suppliers are. So in January, she visited Sri Lanka and Vietnam to find suppliers to help insulate her company.

 

She and her team received samples from a manufacturer in Vietnam and was ready to place an order. But after the White House imposed tariffs of more than 40 percent on imports from Vietnam, Ms. Vaccarella delayed the order until she could gauge the impact.

 

“We felt like we were in a good place” before the White House announced tariffs on dozens of countries last week, she said. “It was like, oh, my God, we did all this work and spent all this money going out there for nothing.”

 

The tariffs on Vietnam have been paused for three months, but the confusion remains. Ms. Vaccarella said her company had recently raised prices by $5 on some products, but retracted the increase out of deference to its customers. For now, it is bracing to see what happens before taking such a step again.

 

“Every day, you can ask me the same question and it’s a different answer,” she said, “which is the craziness and the uncertainty.”

 

Ken Belson is a Times reporter covering sports, power and money at the N.F.L. and other professional sports leagues.

 

Karen Weise writes about technology and is based in Seattle. Her coverage focuses on Amazon and Microsoft, two of the most powerful companies in America.

Sunday, 13 April 2025

Men's Vintage Clothing & Decor | Richard's Fabulous Finds -


https://www.richardsfabulousfinds.com/

 

Richard's Fabulous Finds

2545 West North Avenue

Chicago, IL 60647

 

 





Proprietor, Richard Biasi, draws on his extensive background in luxury menswear and boasts a resume which includes client facing positions at Bloomingdale's, Ralph Lauren, and Neiman Marcus.

 

His years of experience dressing the most discerning clients coupled with his love of fashion history inspired him to open his vintage menswear boutique, Richard's Fabulous Finds, in Chicago's Humboldt Park in April, 2014.

 

Richard caters to men with an eye for style and quality who appreciate the silhouettes, construction, and refinements of an bygone era. He helps bring those elements into the 21st century by keeping them fresh and relevant. Richard is known for his uncanny ability to pull together the perfect look for each unique client. He also dresses models and actors for various projects in the Chicago area and is often called upon to consult on the historical accuracy of costumes.


Saturday, 12 April 2025

November 24, 2022: The Fascinating Backstory of King Charles III and His (Sometimes Controversial) Environmental Crusading / Sat 5 Apr 2025 : King Charles will have to tone down support for net zero after Badenoch says 2050 is ‘impossible’

 



Royals

The Fascinating Backstory of King Charles III and His (Sometimes Controversial) Environmental Crusading

 

His entry into the movement might have started from the path the royals put him on, but early in his life, he sought out his own mentors. Now he’s one of the most influential thinkers on climate in the world.

 

By Erin Vanderhoof

November 24, 2022

By Ken Goff/Getty Images.

https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2022/11/the-fascinating-backstory-of-king-charles-iii-and-environmental-crusading

 

Most people know by now that King Charles III really cares about the environment. It’s been repeated often in the months since the death of Queen Elizabeth II, especially by the people who admire him. What may be less known among the general public is exactly how respected among environmental advocates he really is.

 

This year, Charles reportedly canceled plans to attend COP27 in Egypt last week due to advice from Liz Truss’s short-lived administration, which was upheld by the new prime minister, but he did host a Buckingham Palace reception for over 200 politicians and activists who were on their way to Egypt. For Charles, trips to the United Nations Climate Change Conferences are about more than keeping up appearances—he actually participates. At 2015’s COP21 in Paris, where a landmark treaty was set to be negotiated, Charles used his opening remarks to remind the attendees to think of the world they were leaving their grandchildren. On his last trip to COP26 in Glasgow, Charles gave four separate speeches and introduced a video message from his mother.

 

One obvious reason for his passion for the environment is that he was simply in the right place at the right time. Historians have named 1970 as the year when threats to the environment broke through to the mainstream, and as a 22-year-old finishing up his university degree in anthropology and archeology and planning his career, the concern came naturally. For a handful of baby boomers, caring for the environment became a countercultural lifestyle, and though Charles was never a committed member of the Back-to-the-Land Movement, some of his beliefs and practices—from his organic farm at Highgrove to his concerns about GMOs—weren’t too far off.

 

 

Still, Charles remained unusually committed to environmental concerns even after the ’70s drew to a close, perhaps because it spoke to something deeper in him. Through speeches about the environment spanning five decades, he has described his interest in the environment in elemental terms, speaking of beauty, awareness, synthesis, and imagination. He has also been remarkably astute when it comes to incorporating new information and following the movement’s buzzwords. But engaging with his history in the movement also helps illustrate some of the pitfalls that have made action regarding the climate much harder to achieve.

 

The future king made his initial forays into environmental concerns long before global warming was even on the agenda. On a drab day in February 1970, Charles followed his father, Prince Philip, into a room at Strasbourg’s city hall for a conference about wildlife conservation. In a dark suit, looking younger than his 22 years, Charles sat in the audience as his father delivered a speech about resource depletion, endangered wildlife, and the need for more land to be set aside for conservation. These were the issues that Philip spent most of his life committed to, and they were fairly normal concerns for European royalty at the time. Charles and Philip were joined by four other European princes at the conference, which brought together government representatives and activists to launch the European Conservation Year.

 

By 1970, Charles had already been involved with the European Conservation Year planning for nearly two years. Many of Charles’s decisions about education and employment were planned by Queen Elizabeth II and her advisers, and his initial forays into the world of environmental activism were motivated by their desire for him to form closer connections in Wales. In 1968, Charles started preparing for his responsibilities as heir apparent by spending more time in the nation. First, he chaired a committee tasked with planning the nation’s participation in the upcoming European Conservation Year, his first time serving as the head of a meeting. The next year, he returned to take a summer course in the Welsh language before his lavish investiture in Caernarfon Castle in July 1969.

 

Charles’s 1970 trip to France was part of a larger plan to launch him into his career in public life. His university studies would come to an end that spring, so for the year following his investiture, he committed to a hectic travel schedule to serve as a royal apprentice before beginning his military training at the Royal Navy College, Dartmouth. After leaving the conference in Strasbourg, Charles traveled to Paris to attend the state funeral of French leader Charles de Gaulle.

 

 

One week after his trip to Strasbourg, he launched the Countryside in Wales conference in Cardiff, where he delivered his first-ever speech on the environment, noting that he was “personally fascinated by the problems of conservation at a time when the whole idea had become immensely fashionable.” The speech lays out some of the things he learned the previous week. He mentioned the scourge of “pollution in all its cancerous forms,” the growing issue of “nonreturnable bottles and indestructible plastic containers,” and how conservation is about “being aware of the total environment that we live in.”

 

In 2020, Charles returned to the speech and read portions of it in a video shared to the royal family’s YouTube channel, and it sounded surprisingly fresh. But one segment in which Charles discusses overpopulation wasn’t revisited in the video, perhaps due to its now controversial nature. “In many places the number of people is increasing faster than the resources of the local environment can cope, thereby exaggerating the problems of conservation,” he said in 1970. “There are two main schools of thought here. One is that nothing need be done about population because nature is bound to react by producing a particularly virulent plague or virus, and the other is that something certainly needs to be done by man to prevent his overpopulation.”

 

The rhetoric about a virus seems almost directly pulled from one of Philip’s more infamous comments from the 1960s—about returning in another life as a virus to wipe out some of the world’s population—though Charles moves on without endorsing his father’s idea. Though it’s strange to look back at this moment now, the idea that widespread population control was an urgent concern spread throughout the English-speaking world in the late 1960s and early 1970s, and Philip eagerly embraced the movement for a confluence of reasons. As an avid hunter and outdoorsman, Philip had a personal investment in conservation, and he approached environmental problems with the perspective of a natural scientist.

 

There’s also a long-running connection between the British royal family and the early scientists whose research made concern for the environment and the “quantity” and “quality” of the population into major issues. During the 19th century, Britain saw a population boom due to the Industrial Revolution, all while its citizens were moving to cities where disorder, crime, and pollution proliferated. Movements toward appreciation of nature and the eugenic improvement of society both have their roots in the British aristocracy, and many of its practitioners were awarded by and even close to the royals—including some people who were alive during Philip's lifetime. Charles Darwin, who proposed the theory of evolution and popularized the study of nature among the British aristocracy, was elected as a the Fellow of the Royal Society by a secret ballot that included family members. His cousin, Francis Galton, well-known for research into the nature of heredity and for founding the British Eugenics Society, was knighted by Queen Victoria. The next generation of natural scientists who were even closer to the family. Sir Bernard Mallet, a statistician who eventually became the president of the Eugenics Society, was married to one of the queen’s ladies in waiting. Lord Thomas Horder served as the personal doctor to Edward VIII, George VI, and Elizabeth II, juggling the duties with a role influencing international population control policy, which informed the use of forced sterilization abroad.

 

As historian Emily Klancher Merchant notes, the traditional motivations for eugenics—the quest to improve the “quality” of the human population—was supplanted by a push to moderate population growth for the sake of economic development and resource preservation. It rested on a theory that economic growth will lead the global poor to have smaller families. “This is based on British history, because Britain is where the Industrial Revolution happened, and these were the demographic consequences,” Merchant told Vanity Fair. “‘This is what happened in England, so this is what’s going to happen everywhere,’ is how demographers understood it.”

 

This motivated demographers to see family-planning as a tool for poverty alleviation. “We had population growth without industrialization and no social revolution to create small families. For demographers, this is the problem, and the initial solution that they propose is decolonization and kick-starting their modernization processes,” she said. “Modernization is going to create this new balance between low mortality and low fertility. Population will grow, but industrialization will take care of everybody, and everyone will have high living standards.”

 

Merchant added that the scientific evidence that connected population control with either economic growth or improvements in conservation has always been thin at best, but it became a central concern for the environmental movement as it grew in the 1970s. It remains a concern for some, even as scientific advances began to unravel their underpinnings and global critics attacked the movement for racist objectives and coercive practices in developing countries. Prince Philip continued to mention it into his 90s.

 

“This is still a very common thought—it seems almost like a truism,” Merchant said. “People are destroying the environment, which is true. So, if there’s fewer people, then maybe there will be fewer points for environmental destruction. It seems really obvious to natural scientists even now.” But there has never been a one-to-one connection between population and consumption of resources. “They don’t alway realize that the human activities that hurt the environment are determined by social, political, and economic structures.”

 

For most of his life both Charles and his sons, Prince Harry and Prince William, have mentioned Philip as their main inspiration to become environmental activists. But during the 1970s, Charles’s and Philip’s environmental interests began to diverge. Philip stayed involved in the conservation movement through his leadership at the World Wildlife Fund, which kept him tuned in to the latest scientific advances when it came to biodiversity loss and warming temperatures around the globe. In a 1982 speech at the University of Salford, Philip first mentioned the greenhouse effect and its potential threat to life on earth, just one year after The New York Times first ran a story about it on the front page. By 1986, he was describing the threat in apocalyptic terms. “The damage is being done, here and now, with long-term consequences just as destructive as a nuclear holocaust,” he said in a speech to the European Council of International Schools.

 

Charles, on the other hand, largely moved away from his father’s interest in population control when he found another set of mentors and started to embrace a much broader vision of what counts as an environmental concern. In 1973, the heterodox economist E.F. Schumacher released his book Small Is Beautiful: A Study of Economics as If People Mattered, and it made its way into Charles’s hands. By the end of the year, Schumacher visited the royals at Buckingham Palace, and Charles became a committed supporter of his ideas and institutions.

 

Schumacher’s work, which Charles has quoted in speeches for decades, has retained its relevance into the 21st century. “He wrote about getting beyond GDP growth—living within the limits of the planet and reorganizing economic activity such that people on the planet can truly thrive,” said Jared Spears, director of communications and resources at the Schumacher Center for a New Economics. Schumacher’s message was explicitly anti-fossil fuel because he was writing “against the backdrop of oil crises and shortages in the 1970s.”

 

Spears explained that the ideas only have added resonance now that the environmental movement is centered on fighting climate change. “In a way, the opposing forces have been the same for the past 50 years, but we know a lot more,” he said. “There’s a lot more you can say about the limits of scale, the limits of economic growth, and the reality that industrialized capitalism as it’s been operating for the past couple of decades is certainly not serving the people or the planet.”

 

Throughout the early 1980s, Charles kept his affiliations with the Prince of Wales Countryside Committee and other nature organizations. But his concern for nature and the environment were primarily expressed through the hobby of organic farming, which began when the Duchy of Cornwall bought Highgrove House in 1980 and his controversial forays into critiquing modern architecture. He also had to contend with widespread mockery in the press. As the Thatcher-era tabloids took aim at the urban left, environmental issues were increasingly referred to as “fringe” and “loony,” alongside other priorities of the Labour Party. Stories about Charles’s enthusiasm for talking to plants, his unconventional solutions to heating his own estates, and the jokes he made about banning hairspray in his home to save the ozone layer had the effect of making Charles seem political while also painting environmentally minded politicians as out of touch.

 

A watershed moment came in 1987, when Charles served as the UK’s patron for the European Year for the Environment and presented the first round of Better Environment Awards for Industry with a speech where he took on increasing “anti-conservation” sentiment in the world at large. By the time he appeared as a guest in a 1989 documentary about global warming and recommitted himself as a spokesperson for global warming, he was doing so in concert with then senator Al Gore, who first learned about the greenhouse effect and anthropogenic changes to the climate as a student at Harvard in the 1960s. As science became more incontrovertible, Gore became the US government official who most avidly called for action to protect the environment. In the mid-1980s, Charles met Gore during a trip to Washington, and the pair traded ideas for decades. (In 1990, Charles made another documentary called The Earth in Balance, and in 1992, Gore released his book Earth in the Balance.)

 

By the time the queen started speaking out about climate change in the early 2000s, the issue had become thoroughly mainstream, and by 2009 both of Britain’s major political parties had it as a part of their platform. By connecting his interest in conservation to his old-fashioned tastes and architecture and his passion for religion, Charles formulated a way of talking about the environment that focused on building consensus based on philosophical pursuits and shared values. In some ways, he was prescient to think less about the science of climate change and focus more on building a positive vision of society.

 

At the same time, abandoning explicit politics meant that his work became about preserving the status quo. For nearly three decades now, Charles has focused his rhetoric around the idea of “sustainable development” and worked with major corporations to come up with plans to reach carbon-neutrality over the next few decades. This year, at COP27, the biggest issue up for discussion was explicitly political and it might be one Charles will never be able to address. Before the conference, vulnerable countries organized to put “Loss and Damage” at the center of the agenda, demanding financial compensation for the disproportionate impact of extreme weather and climate change they have already faced.

 

One of Charles’s main mentors might have trained him for the situation, but it’s unlikely that he could really put the ideas into action. Spears, the director of communications at the Schumacher Center, pointed out that the fundamental importance of direct democracy was at the cornerstone of Schumacher’s ideas. “If we find a solution to the problem, it won’t come at COP27,” he said. “It will come from the communities on the ground who are working hard to come up with democratic solutions.”

 

Ultimately it might have actually been impossible for the future king to truly embrace the ideas of localism, and an unelected monarch might never be the person who will bring about egalitarian, sustainable communities. But Charles did find a way to preserve environmental rhetoric even when it became unfashionable, and due in part to his decades of work, concern for the environment now feels central to British identity. As the wave of direct action coming from young adults in Britain is already proving, it’s the next generation’s turn to carry that further.


 King Charles will have to tone down support for net zero after Badenoch says 2050 is ‘impossible’

 

Constitutional expert says Tory leader’s break from political consensus over target for greenhouse gasses will require monarch to choose his words carefully

 

Richard Palmer

Sat 5 Apr 2025 18.00 BST

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2025/apr/05/king-charles-will-have-to-tone-down-support-for-net-zero-after-badenoch-says-2050-is-impossible

 

King Charles will have to temper his public support for net zero after Kemi Badenoch broke the political consensus over the UK’s greenhouse gas emissions.

 

Senior royal sources have conceded that the 76-year-old monarch, who has spent more than half a century highlighting environmental challenges, will have to choose his words more carefully now that the Conservatives under Badenoch have said it will be impossible for the UK to hit net zero by 2050.

 

“The only way that we can regain it [trust] is to tell the unvarnished truth – net zero by 2050 is impossible,” the Conservative leader said last month.

 

Charles III has spoken publicly about how vital it is to hit net zero by the 2050 target date, set by Theresa May’s government in 2019 and agreed upon by subsequent administrations. Successive prime ministers have used the king’s long track record on campaigning for climate action to help promote Britain’s leadership on combatting the challenges.

 

In December 2023, for example, the king told the Cop28 UN climate change conference in Dubai that more urgent action was needed to bring the world towards a zero-carbon future. “After all, ladies and gentlemen, in 2050 our grandchildren won’t be asking what we said, they will be living with the consequences of what we did or didn’t do,” he said.

 

At that point, the main UK political parties were agreed on the issue. Now the monarch runs the risk of becoming embroiled in a party political dispute. In addition to the change in the Conservative view, Reform wants to scrap net zero completely.

 

Craig Prescott, a constitutional expert at Royal Holloway, University of London, suggested the king must be less specific about his own views on the target. “I think if you take the view that the monarchy has to be ‘two or three steps away’ from party politics then, as party politics changes, the monarchy should change,” he said.

 

Charles, who flies to Italy tomorrow with Queen Camilla for a state visit that lasts until Thursday, will still put tackling the climate crisis and other environmental challenges at the heart of his monarchy.

 

The work to create a more sustainable future will be a feature of the trip. In Rome, the king will join a meeting chaired by the foreign secretary, David Lammy, and attended by business leaders to hear how Britain and Italy are working together on the transition to clean energy. In Ravenna he will meet farmers whose land and crops have been severely affected by devastating floods in the region in the past few years.

 

He and Camilla, who celebrate their 20th wedding anniversary at a state banquet in Rome on Wednesday evening, will visit the Colosseum and celebrate close defence ties between the two countries, in spite of the political differences between Keir Starmer’s Labour party and Italy’s rightwing leader, Giorgia Meloni.

 

The need to avoid involving the king in party political controversy has been highlighted after documents released on Friday revealed that the monarch secretly met Prince Andrew to discuss his future and was twice briefed about plans for him to be involved in a £2.4bn investment fund run by an alleged Chinese spy, Yang Tengbo. Buckingham Palace insisted Yang, since banned from Britain despite protesting his innocence, was not specifically mentioned.

 

Prince William is likely to attend the Cop30 UN climate conference in Belém, Brazil, in November and may also be more guarded than before about his views on achieving net zero, although royals may still be expected to reflect on government policy on the international stage.

 

Any silencing of the monarch and his heir threatens to weaken Britain’s voice abroad, according to some environmental groups. Shaun Spiers, executive director of the environmental thinktank Green Alliance, said Charles might be unable to speak out specifically on the 2050 target but could talk generally about the need for climate action. “The king is a well-respected leader and it would be a shame if he didn’t speak on it, particularly internationally,” he said.

 

Reshima Sharma, deputy head of politics at Greenpeace UK, pointed to popular support for green policies. “King Charles has long been an important advocate for action to clean up our environment and tackle climate change. While the monarchy must remain politically neutral, thankfully climate action continues to receive the kind of popular support that politicians can only dream of. This is reflected across voters of all stripes,” she said.

 

Buckingham Palace declined to comment.


‘MORTAL DANGER?!’ Royal expert says Prince Harry’s claims are NONSENSE |...

Thursday, 10 April 2025

Nicolas Puech, Hermès Heir, an Emir and a Deal Gone Wrong

 



The Strange Case of an Hermès Heir, an Emir and a Deal Gone Wrong

 

Nicolas Puech agreed to sell his multibillion-dollar stake in his family’s luxury goods empire to the royal family of Qatar, but then said he couldn’t gain access to his shares.

 


Ephrat Livni

By Ephrat Livni

April 9, 2025, 5:02 a.m. ET

https://www.nytimes.com/2025/04/09/world/europe/hermes-qatar-puech-deal.html

 

Nicolas Puech is an heir to the Hermès fortune whose riches are shrouded in mystery. He either is or is not a billionaire, and may or may not have a sizable stake in his family’s luxury brand, depending on when and where these matters come up.

 

A new lawsuit filed in federal court late last month says that Mr. Puech recently claimed he does hold that stake, about 5 percent of the company, and had signed a deal to sell more than six million shares in Hermès to the royal family of Qatar. But Mr. Puech has also previously told courts in Switzerland, where he lives, that his shares had disappeared in the hands of a wealth manager.

 

The complaint in federal court in the District of Columbia, now under seal, accused Mr. Puech of failing to honor the sale, adding fresh intrigue to the enduring enigma of his wealth and offering a glimpse into the luxury ambitions of Qatar’s monarchy. The original suit was rejected on a technicality by the court, and the plaintiff has refiled with a motion to keep it under seal.

 

Mr. Puech, 82, is a great-grandson of Thierry Hermès, a 19th-century saddle maker who turned his business into a fashion powerhouse revered even by other fashion brands. Hermès — known, among other things, for the exclusive Birkin bags it sells only to insiders — was valued at $300 billion in mid-February, just days after Mr. Puech signed a deal to sell his shares, then worth over $15 billion, according to filings in the suit.

 

It is not the first time Mr. Puech and his slice of the family fortune have been the subjects of great debate and litigation.

 

In 2023, he made waves after moving to adopt his middle-aged, married Moroccan gardener to bequeath him half his fortune, prompting resistance from a charity he had formed, which expected the inheritance.

 

In a separate matter, Mr. Puech told Swiss judges that his longtime financial manager had swindled him out of his shares. But an appeals court last year rejected claims of fraud and found Mr. Puech knowingly gave the financial manager free rein to handle his affairs.

 

And there have been questions about Mr. Puech’s stake in Hermès — and just how much of it may remain — ever since he alienated his family by siding with a rival luxury tycoon, Bernard Arnault of LVMH, in Mr. Arnault’s failed bid to gain control of Hermès more than a decade ago.

 

The new lawsuit, filed by Honor America Capital, accuses Mr. Puech of breach of the contract to sell his shares, and asks the court to order him to make good on his pledge and to pay $1.3 billion in damages for “lost profits, opportunity costs, and reputational harm.” The company was formed by the deputy emir of Qatar in Washington in February, and court documents show it is backed by the emir himself.

 

A contract and letters filed with the complaint show the deal was discussed for months and signed on Feb. 10. A representative for Honor America Capital wrote to Mr. Puech’s lawyer in Switzerland to “confirm that we have secured a full funding commitment from His Highness Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad Al Thani, Emir of the State of Qatar” to close the deal.

 

But Mr. Puech twice delayed the share transfer, based on letters sent by his representative and filed with the court. On March 19, his lawyer wrote to the monarchy’s company to say that despite “best and repeated efforts,” his client was “unable” to get his shares and had concluded it would be “futile” to set another closing date.

 

Lawyers for the parties did not respond to requests for comment. But Mr. Puech’s past could not have been lost on the Qataris, who have an expansive portfolio of high-end retail and luxury brand holdings — including the Harrods and Printemps department stores — through their sovereign wealth fund and investment vehicles backed by the royal family. Still, the chances of getting a chunk of Hermès, apparently outweighed any risks of doing business with Mr. Puech, some experts suggest.

 

The share price of Hermès has spiked more than 200 percent in five years, and the brand is increasingly hot, even as other luxury purveyors have faltered. Gaining a 5 percent stake would be “super valuable,” said Eric Talley, a Columbia University professor specializing in corporate and transactional law.

 

It would be difficult to calculate damages, based on the structure of the deal and legal rules about remedies, Mr. Talley said, so rather than sorting it out, a judge could simply order Mr. Puech to complete the deal. Even if it turns out that Mr. Puech is correct and the shares are not immediately accessible, a ruling in their favor would give the Qataris legal leverage if his estate is eventually untangled and the shares resurface.

 

But prying loose those shares could prove extremely challenging. Mr. Puech has filed a complaint in France against his former wealth manager, reiterating the claims he made in Switzerland that the shares had disappeared.

 

Ephrat Livni is a reporter for The Times’s DealBook newsletter, based in Washington.