FASHION IN FRANCE
From July 12th to November 2nd, 2014
Basques, petticoats, corolla skirts,
pointed shoes, bright-coloured floral and striped prints, wasp-waist suits with
straight skirts, strapless sheath dresses, cocktail dresses, rock crystal
embroidery: such was the couture of the fifties. At the same time, though, a
more relaxed style – close-fitting pullovers, pedal pushers, jeans – was being
adopted by the baby boom generation.
Early in 1947, Christian Dior launched his
fashion house's first collection. The war had come to an end and with it the
image of the 'soldier girl with a boxer's build'. In her place came Dior's
'woman-flower', with prominent bust, cinched waist, flat stomach, rounded hips
and very full skirt. Immediately dubbed the 'New Look" by Harper’s Bazaar
editor in chief Carmel Snow, the "hourglass" figure and its
extravagant demand for fabric created a furore – but also met with the instant,
dazzling success that made it the emblem of the decade.
Other competing styles were just as
remarkable: Balenciaga's 'barrel' line with its flared back and waist; and, at
the opposite pole from the New Look, the dramatically innovative Chanel line of
1954 with its simple, straight suits.
The 1950s were a decisive period for French
haute couture, which had suffered badly in the wake of the 1929 stock market
crash and the war and was now reborn and made eternal. The list of names says
it all: Jacques Heim, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, Jacques Fath making up
the old guard; followed by newcomers Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior, Jacques
Griffe, Hubert de Givenchy and Pierre Cardin. Paradoxically the dominance of
French fashion hinged not only on the prestige of names that spelled luxury,
elegance and originality, but also on the profession's willingness to make the
revolutionary move into ready-to-wear. In 1954 the 'Couturiers Associés' –
Jacques Fath, Robert Piguet, Paquin, Carven, Jean Dessès – founded the first
haute couture ready-to-wear licensing company .
Drawn from the Palais Galliera collection
and sporting the labels of the most famous couturiers as well as others now
forgotten (Jean Dessès, Madeleine Vramant, Lola Prusac), the remarkable pieces
making up this exhibition – some 100 models and accessories – retrace the
evolution of the female form through the decade 1947–1957: from the birth of
the New Look to the death of Christian Dior and the advent of Yves Saint
Laurent.
In the 1950s haute couture and
ready-to-wear were one of France Paris
In partnership with METRONEWS, OBSESSION,
STYLIST, VOGUE PARIS, FRANCE 5, FRANCE INTER / FNAC, TROIS COULEURS
PRESS AREA
VISITOR INFORMATION
Price:
Full 8 € / Reduced 6 € / Ages 14-26 4 € /
Free up to age 13
[New rates from September 1st, 2014 : Full
8 € / Reduced 6 € / Free up to age 18]
Information:
PALAIS GALLIERA, CITY OF PARIS FASHION
MUSEUM
10 avenue Pierre
Ier de Serbie, 75116 Paris - Phone : + 33 (0)1 56 52 86 00
Opening hours :
Open on Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6pm
Closed on Mondays and public holidays*
Late openings on Thursdays until 9 pm
Last access to the exhibition at 5:15 pm
(and at 8:15 pm for the late openings on Thursdays)
* During this exhibition, the Palais
Galliera will be closed on July 14th, August 15th and November 1st.
Access :
Métro :
Alma-Marceau (line 9), Iéna (line 9), Boissière (line 6)
RER C Pont de
l'Alma station
Bus : 32, 42, 63,
72, 80, 82, 92
Vélib' : 4 rue de
Longchamp, 1 rue Bassano, 2 avenue Marceau
Autolib' : 1
avenue Marceau, 33 avenue Pierre Ier de Serbie, 24 avenue d'Iéna
Around this exhibition :
From July 18th till October 31st, 2014, the
Grand Action cinema presents a cycle dedicated to the cinema of the 50s. The
sessions take place every Friday at 8 pm.
- See more at:
http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/50s#sthash.2CFwmlLe.dpuf
Hello,
ReplyDeleteDefinitely an exhibition to see. It is amazing how contemporary many of these designs still look to be. Wonderful fabrics.
We have just discovered you but shall return for more.