Ralph
Lauren: In His Own Fashion
Reviewed
by:
Jeffrey
Felner
Before even
opening this book, this reader was wondering what Alan Flusser could possibly
bring to the table on the subject of Ralph Lauren. There are few designers who
reflect the ubiquity of Mr. Lauren as well as being an American designer whose
life and career has been hugely chronicled for decades.
The devoted
fashionphile will experience myriad emotions while reading Ralph Lauren: In His
Own Fashion depending on one’s career, life experiences, involvement in the
actual world of fashion, or just being an observer or fan of Mr. Lauren.
Flusser’s take on Ralph Lauren is at times anecdotal, nostalgic, informative,
intimate, sometimes tedious, and even laudatory. In a way Flusser deifies the
designer, but throughout the book we are told that Lauren was never trained as
a designer and only keeps the best people around to do the heavy lifting. Some
might say it’s a kiss and slap scenario, but Flusser is trying to make a point
about a man who saw into the future and built an empire based on his own
aspirations, inspirations, and gut instincts.
Bernadine
Morris wrote in the early 80s with great prescience: “Some insisted it was
Lauren’s best collection. The clothes looked exceedingly well-bred, and though
they are unassertive, they make a powerful statement.”
Flusser
gives the reader the opportunity to absorb the subject matter on so many
planes. Some will call it a fashion book, others might call it a biography.
Ralph Lauren: In His Own Fashion is unquestionably a superb primer for those
who have not read or followed the trajectory of Mr. Lauren. The prospective
reader might also find that the book serves as living proof that believing in
oneself is paramount when trying to achieve one’s goals. Again, the book’s
appeal stretches far wider than just fashion.
The biggest
detriment to the monograph is the inclusion of the history of the haute couture
and development of ready to wear as well as the history of American sportswear.
These subjects have been written about by far more authoritative sources than
Flusser. Lastly, comparing Lauren to Chanel at every turn just doesn’t seem
quite right or correct.
Jeffrey
Felner is a dedicated participant and nimble historian in the businesses of
fashion and style. Decades of experience allow him to pursue almost any topic
relating to fashion and style with with
unique insight and unrivaled acumen.
‘It was
more about timeless things I liked,’ the American designer says
Olivia
Petter
@oliviapetter1
Wednesday 6
November 2019 11:34
Ralph
Lauren has made an unlikely confession by stating that he “hates” fashion.
Speaking
about his upcoming HBO documentary, Very Ralph, which charts the legacy of the
American designer’s 50-year-old eponymous brand, he explained that his view of
fashion is more about concepts than clothes.
“I hate
fashion,” Lauren told The Telegraph. “I never thought of myself as a fashion
designer. It was more about timeless things I liked – and values.”
The
documentary explores Lauren’s beginnings in the industry and highlights some of
his most famous creations for people such as Hillary Clinton, Anna Wintour and
Audrey Hepburn, who is featured in an early scene.
“Ralph
conjures up all the things I most care about,” the iconic film star says while
wearing a black Ralph Lauren tuxedo at an event celebrating Lauren’s career in
1992.
When asked
to expand on the things she cares about, Hepburn lists objects and moods as
opposed to fashion items, including “vegetable gardens, fireplaces and misty
mornings.”
Lauren came
to the fore of American fashion in the early 1970s, when he was famed for his
preppy sportswear and tailoring. Now, his namesake brand comprises one of the
largest apparel empires, encompassing several labels including Polo Ralph
Lauren and Ralph Lauren Purple Label.
The brand
has also acquired a cult celebrity following having worked with people like
actor Jessica Chastain and model Taylor Hill on various campaigns.
Lauren’s
reputation is such that he even appeared in Friends as himself – the character
Rachel Green worked at Ralph Lauren for several seasons of the American sitcom.
Elsewhere
in the interview, the 80-year-old fashion designer, whose net worth is
estimated at $6bn (£4.7bn) speaks about being rejected in his early career.
After a
stint at Brooks Brothers, Lauren applied for a role at a large retailer that he
thinks might’ve been Saks 5th Avenue. Despite offering to work for free to
prove himself, the company turned him down.
“I don’t
know what happened to that person who interviewed me,” Lauren told the
publication of the rejection. “But I’m still here”.
No comments:
Post a Comment