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The J.Crew Catalog Is Back—and Preppier Than Ever

 

The J.Crew Catalog Is Back—and Preppier Than Ever

 

The heritage brand relaunched an updated version of the iconic booklet with its fall campaign taking center stage.

 

By Sophie DweckPublished: Sep 04, 2024 2:59 PM EDT

https://www.townandcountrymag.com/style/fashion-trends/a62057550/jcrew-catalog-relaunch-news-2024/

 

Seven years after J.Crew discontinued its iconic mail-order catalog that reached thousands of dedicated American shoppers for decades, the heritage brand has relaunched a new version with its fall campaign taking center stage.

 

So what can the J.Crew shoppers of 2024 expect? The updated catalog features the label's signature preppy aesthetic that readers have known and loved for years, but with a contemporary twist. It's filled to the brim with campaign imagery, but the latest booklet makes space for editorial content with Q&A interviews as well.

 

J.Crew plans to publish three times per year, starting with the the current fall catalog which comes in four different covers, including one with '90s icon and J.Crew mega-fan Demi Moore. According to the brand, each catalog will also "spotlight a mix of multi-generational faces that capture the essence of J.Crew’s city-meets-coast DNA."

 

Inside the pages of the Fall catalog, which was crafted in partnership with Parisian-based creative design studio Atelier Franck Durand, you'll find all sorts of coastal-inspired looks featuring pieces from J.Crew's new collection, as well as slew of country essentials (think: barn jackets and wool coats) and fall city staples, such as blazers, loafers, and cashmere sweaters.

 

In addition to the printed edition, the catalog will be available in all J.Crew stores as an immersive in-app experience and will be integrated in a variety of consumer-focused activations in New York City throughout September.

 

Sophie Dweck

Sophie Dweck is the associate shopping editor for Town & Country, where she covers beauty, fashion, home and décor, and more.

REMEMBERING: The Rise And Fall Of J.Crew

J.Crew Group, Inc., is an American multi-brand, multi-channel, specialty retailer. The company offers an assortment of women's, men's, and children's apparel and accessories, including swimwear, outerwear, lounge-wear, bags, sweaters, denim, dresses, suiting, jewelry, and shoes.

 

As of August 2016, it operated more than 450 retail stores throughout the United States. The company conducts its business through retail, factory, crew cuts, Madewell stores, catalogs, and online.

 

On May 4, 2020, the company announced that it would apply for bankruptcy protection amidst the COVID-19 pandemic.

 

History

Formation and catalog growth

In 1947, Mitchell Cinader and Saul Charles founded Popular Merchandise, Inc., a store that did business as Popular Club Plan and sold low-priced women's clothing marketed through in-home demonstrations.[6] Throughout the mid-1980s, sales from catalog operations grew rapidly. "Growth was explosive—25 to 30 percent a year," Cinader later recollected in The New York Times. Annual sales grew from $3 million to more than $100 million over five years.[6] In 1985, the "Clifford & Wills" brand was launched, selling women's clothing that was more affordable than the Popular Merchandise line. In 1987, two executives left the company to start their own catalog, Tweeds.

 

The 1980s marked a booming sales period for catalog retail giants Lands' End, Talbots, and L. L. Bean. Popular Merchandise initiated its own catalog operation, focusing on leisurewear for upper-middle-class customers, aiming for a Ralph Lauren look at a much lower price. The first Popular Club Plan catalog was mailed to customers in January 1983 and continued under that name until 1989. Popular Club Plan catalogs often showed the same garment in more than one picture with close-up shots of the fabrics, so customers could get a sense of how the garment looked on the body and be assured of the company's claims of quality.

 

Name change and first stores

In 1983, Popular Merchandise, Inc. became known as J.Crew, Inc. The company attempted, but failed to sell the Popular Club Plan brand.[6] Also in 1989, J.Crew opened its first retail store, in South Street Seaport in downtown Manhattan.

 

J.Crew Group was owned by the Cinader family for most of its existence, but in October 1997 investment firm Texas Pacific Group Inc. purchased a majority stake. By the year 2000, Texas Pacific held an approximate 62 percent stake, a group of J.Crew managers held about 10 percent, and Emily Cinader Woods, the chairman of J.Crew, along with her father, Arthur Cinader, held most of the remainder. The brand Clifford & Wills was sold to Spiegel. in 2000 with the intent to boost sales. In 2004, J.Crew bought the rights to the brand Madewell, a defunct workwear manufacturer founded in 1937, and used the name from 2006 onwards as "a modern-day interpretation", targeted at younger women than their main brand.

 

Going public and then private again

In 2006, the company held an IPO, raising $376 million by selling new shares equal to 33% of expanded capital. However, in 2011, TPG Capital LP and Leonard Green & Partners LP took J.Crew private again in a $3 billion leveraged buyout. On November 23, 2010, the company had agreed to be taken private in a $3 billion deal led by management with the backing of TPG Capital and Leonard Green & Partners, two large private equity firms. The announcement of the offer from two investment firms—including one that used to own J.Crew—came as the retailer reported that its third-quarter net income fell by 14 percent due to weak women's clothing sales. The company also lowered its guidance for the 2010 year. Under the deal as proposed, J.Crew shareholders would receive $43.50 per share in cash, representing a 16 percent premium to the stock's closing price the prior day of $37.65. CEO Mickey Drexler, the former Gap Inc. chief credited with turning J.Crew around since coming aboard in 2003, remained in that role and retained a "significant" stake in the company (as of September 2010, he holds 5.4% of outstanding shares).

 

Shortly after the announcement of the deal, some in the business community criticized the terms of the deal involving the company's CEO and a majority shareholder. As a result, the "go-shop" period was extended shortly after the initial announcement.In addition, several investigations relating to potential shareholder actions against the company were announced.[19] After the deal, TPG and Leonard Green borrowed more to help finance dividends totaled $787 million to them.

 

Recent

In June 2015, The New York Times reported that J.Crew's women's division was undergoing a slump because of the company's failure to react to two market trends: cheap "fast fashion" and "athleisure" items. In 2016, J.Crew partnered with Nordstrom to begin selling their products in stores and online. In December 2016, the company faced litigation after it moved its intellectual property "out of the reach of lenders."

 

In April 2017, the company cut 250 jobs, largely from its headquarters. The company also underwent several management changes, and long-term creative director Jenna Lyons left the company in April. The brand's longtime head of menswear, Frank Muytjens, left the company that month as well, and in June 2017, the company's CEO, Mickey Drexler, announced that he would later be stepping down as CEO role after 14 years with the company. Drexler announced he would stay on as chairman and still own 10% of the company. On June 12, 2017, J.Crew Group Inc. announced it had "made an offer to some of its bondholders to push back its most pressing debt obligation—about $567 million due in May 2019—and amend its term loan." At the time, J.Crew Group had around $2 billion in debt. Also in 2017, Drexler approached Amazon Inc about selling J.Crew to the tech giant.

 

In the summer of 2017, the company avoided a bankruptcy filing by having bondholders do a debt swap tapping into its brand name value. The majority of the bondholders agreed to the deal, with several others failing to stop the deal with a lawsuit. The deal lowered the company's debt.

 

In September 2018, J.Crew began selling its standalone "J.Crew Mercantile" brand on Amazon.

 

On February 16, 2018, J.Crew hired Adam Brotman, a long-time Starbucks executive, as president and chief experience officer. Brotman's first major impact was launching "J.Crew Rewards", the company's first reward program independent of the company's credit card. The rewards program offers free shipping and $5 back for each $200 spent.

 

In November 2018, J.Crew announced its CEO, James Brett, would step down and be replaced by an office of the CEO consisting of four senior executives from J.Crew. Brett took up the position in June 2017. The company released a press release stating Brett's departure was a "mutual agreement" between Brett and the company's board of directors. Brett will be replaced by Michael Nicholson (president and COO), Adam Brotman (president and chief experience officer), Lynda Markoe (chief administrative officer), and Libby Wadle, president of Madewell Brand. The new office of the CEO will be responsible for managing J.Crew's operations as the board establishes a permanent management structure. On November 29, J.Crew announced the dissolution of their Nevereven, Mercantile, and J.Crew Home sub-brands.

 

On April 11, 2019, J.Crew announced that president and COO, Michael Nicholson, will retain the title of interim CEO, along with the subsequent announcement of Brotman's departure.

 

J.Crew reported a net income of $1.5 million in the fourth quarter of 2019, up from a net loss of $74.4 million in quarter four of 2018.

 

On January 28, 2020, the retailer announced that Jan Singer will assume title of CEO. Singer was previously CEO of Victoria's Secret, Spanx and was an executive at Nike.[42] She will replace Nicholson who will assume his previous position.

 

On May 4, 2020, J.Crew filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, although the company had amassed enormous debt even before the outbreak.

 

Chinos Holdings, Inc. and 17 affiliated debtors filed Chapter 11 bankruptcy in the United States District Court for the Eastern District of Virginia. The Debtors have requested joint administration of the cases under Case No. 20-32181.

 

In September 2020, J Crew permanently closed all six of its UK stores after its parent group emerged from Chapter 11 bankruptcy following an approval plan to cut its debts.

 

In November 2020, J.Crew appointed new Chief Executive Officer. Libby Wadle replaced Jan Singer who had been a CEO for less than a year.

 

Retail stores

The company operates 506 retail stores, including 203 J.Crew stores, 129 Madewell stores, and 174 J.Crew Factory (including 42 J.Crew Mercantile) outlet locations, as reported in 2018. The company also operates internationally in Canada, France, the UK, and Hong Kong. Additionally, the company has 76 locations in Japan, which are operated under license by ITOCHU Corporation.

 

In March 1989, the first J.Crew retail outlet opened in the South Street Seaport in Manhattan, and the company planned to open 45 more stores. Five months after the opening of its first store, J.Crew added two new catalog lines: "Classics" and "Collections." "Collections" used more complicated designs and finer fabrics to create dressier and more expensive items, while "Classics" featured clothes that could be worn both to work and for leisure activities.[citation needed] In the fall of 1989, J.Crew opened three new stores in Chestnut Hill, Massachusetts; San Francisco, California; and Costa Mesa, California, all locations with strong catalog sales. By the end of the year, retail sales nearly hit $10 million. Despite 1989, revenues that year were estimated at $320 million, J.Crew suffered a setback when its agreement to sell its Popular Club unit collapsed at the end that year. In addition, rumors circulated that the company's Clifford & Wills low-priced women's apparel catalog was doing poorly.

 

J.Crew saw revenues reach $400 million in 1990 but reported that its four existing stores had not yet started producing enough profits to cover their overheads. The next phase of store openings included outlets in Philadelphia, Cambridge, and Portland. The company scaled back its plans for opening retail stores from 45 stores to 30 or 35.[citation needed] In early 1991 the company hired a director of new marketing development and began efforts to expand their sales into Canada. In April 1991, J.Crew mailed 75,000 J.Crew catalogs and 60,000 Clifford & Wills catalogs to potential customers in the province of Ontario. Response rates to this effort were slightly lower than in the United States, but each order, on average, was higher.[citation needed] In 1992, J.Crew intensified its push into international markets by hiring a new vice-president for international development. The company already mailed hundreds of catalogs to customers in Japan and Europe, most of whom had become acquainted with J.Crew while traveling or living in the United States.

 

 

J.Crew in Markville Shopping Centre (now closed)

In 2011, J.Crew opened its first international store in the Yorkdale Shopping Centre in Toronto.[50] In 2012, J.Crew announced four new Canadian locations: Edmonton in West Edmonton Mall, Vancouver on Robson Street, and Toronto in Fairview Mall (now closed) and the Toronto Eaton Centre. All locations will carry women's and men's collections. Along with 5 new stores, although some of these stores have been closed recently. J.Crew announced to opening of two new factory stores in Canada, with one in Vaughan Mills and the other in Edmonton (The second J.Crew in Alberta) Continuing with its expansion in the Greater Toronto Area, J.Crew opened at Markville Shopping Centre in 2013 (and now closed). In early 2014, J.Crew unveiled its new flagship location in Yorkville, Toronto.

 

In an interview with the Financial Times in 2011, CEO of J.Crew Mickey Drexler said that J.Crew would be expanding to the U.K. with their flagship store being on London's Regent Street. He indicated that the company would be following up their recent expansion into Canada and Canadian e-commerce with a physical store in England, most likely followed by e-commerce elsewhere, such as France and Germany. Although a few locations were reviewed for the London store, including Covent Garden and the East End, the ultimate decision was to open on Regent Street.

 

In early 2014, J.Crew announced plans to open brick-and-mortar locations in Asia – to be spearheaded by two establishments in Hong Kong. A women's store is slated to open in the International Finance Centre, while a men's shop is in the works for On Lan Street. Both opened for business in May 2014.

 

From 2016 to 2018, J.Crew Group has closed 96 J.Crew and J.Crew Factory retail locations.

 

On March 2, 2020, J.Crew announced that it would pause the proposed Madewell IPO that was intended to be initiated on March 2. The company is considering a possible separation of J.Crew and Madewell into two separate companies.

 

Marketing

Historically, each year the company issued 24 editions of the J.Crew catalog, distributing more than 80 million copies. Beginning in 2017, the catalog began being released with fewer pages and fewer issues per year.

 

J.Crew has been criticized for labeling its new super-small jeans as "size 000"., and for advertising them as "toothpick jeans". Critics have said the labeling promotes vanity, a practice known as vanity sizing. The "size 000" is smaller than a size zero and has three zeros, implying that it is two sizes smaller than the smallest normal size. This has caused people to question whether negative sizes will be available in the future, and if the method of labeling should be changed.

 

In early 2011, J.Crew was under fire by conservative media outlets for an advertisement featuring its creative director and president, Jenna Lyons, painting her son's toenails pink. Beneath the picture was a quote that read, "Lucky for me I ended up with a boy whose favorite color is pink." Some people were of the opinion that J.Crew was challenging traditional gender identity roles, although author Jo B. Paoletti said that it was "no big deal".

Story of an Icon: The Flieger Watch History and Modern Alternatives

The Laco B-Uhr – A Flieger Watch Review

There are some watch designs that not only stand the test of time, but in the case of war, also transcend their original context to become a classic. Such a watch, the B-Uhr, the offspring of Germany and Switzerland’s leading watchmakers, has a noted history of design and production, but was employed for an infamous cause. The B-Uhren watches guided German bombers in their terrible campaigns of World War II with dropped bombs whistling through air to end in devastating consequence. The B-Uhr remains a formidable watch.

https://monochrome-watches.com/the-history-of-the-pilot-watch-part-five-b-uhr/

In 1935, Adolf Hitler announced his plans to reconstitute Germany’s Air Force and officially created the Luftwaffe. Germany had been building its aviation forces, decidedly military in purpose and in violation of WWI’s Versailles Treaty, but this buildup had proceeded ostensibly for civilian purposes. With his power consolidated, Hitler shrugged off all pretense and announced Germany’s resumption of military procurement. Prior to 1935, the Heinkel He 111 bomber supposedly existed as a transport plane just as the National Socialist Party supposedly sought to establish peace and prosperity. Though few (including watchmakers) knew it at the time, Germany was preparing for war.

Schematic-WFThe RLM (Reichs-Luftfahrtministerium), responsible for aircraft development, also sought a commensurate time piece for its bomber navigators. The 1935 conceptual designs first specified an hour angle indication like the Lindbergh watch (see here), but this specification was dropped, and standard criteria emerged, making the B-Uhr instantly recognizable.

These watches were big. 55mm big. The size accommodated large hand-wound movements typically used in pocket watches, but the B-Uhr was always to be a watch for the wrist. Each one used a Breguet balance spring. Inside, the movement was surrounded by an iron core, making the B-Uhr anti-magnetic – a must for aviation. To correct for time discrepancies, the movements were capable of stopping the central seconds hand by pulling the crown, or hacking, and the oversized diamond or onion crown could be operated with gloves on the hand. A very long, double-riveted leather strap, long enough to go over the leather flight jacket, held the B-Uhr in place.

The large size made them unambiguously legible and their black dials with white Arabic numerals further aided the task of precise reading. The flame-blued sword hands were covered in luminous material as was the distinguishing upwards-orientation triangle or arrow at the twelve o’clock position, accompanied by two dots on the Type A models. The initial Type A model had only an outer chapter ring, but the later type B (starting in 1941) had an outer ring for minutes/seconds and an inner ring for hours. Each case had FL23883 engraved on the left side. FL designated flieger, and 23 identified the watch as a navigation watch. The snap-off case back had the following identifying information on its inside: type (Bauart), production number (Gerät-Nr.), movement (Werk-Bez.), order number (Anforderz), and manufacturer (Hersteller). The RLM and its partner watch manufacturers produced a novel design, which would attain cult status.

B-Uhren is an abbreviation for Beobachtungs-uhren, literally Observation watches. B-Uhr is singular, and B-Uhren is plural. The B-Uhren were property of the Luftwaffe, not the navigators. The navigator was issued his watch before flight, and then returned the watch after completing the mission. Navigators received a signal beep from the airbase, which in turn set its chronometer to the standard time of the German Naval Observatory (Deutsche Seewarte), and if the navigator’s time was off, the hacking mechanism allowed for adjustment. An accurate watch was necessary for navigation, so all the B-Uhren watches were regulated and tested to the highest chronometer standards of the Deutsche Seewarte in Hamburg. Bomber navigators peered over the navigation table, their B-Uhren at the ready, and plotted course, copied astronomical fixes and noted events on the map. The B-Uhr was a consummate navigational aid.

Five manufacturers – four German and one Swiss – supplied the B-Uhren. In Germany, A. Lange & Söhne, Wempe, Lacher & Company/Durowe (Laco), and Walter Storz (Stowa) produced the watch. Wempe and Stowa used Swiss movements; Wempe settled on the Thommen cal. 31, and Stowa used the Unitas cal. 2812. Lange used its big cal. 48 and then its cal. 48.1, and Laco used its (Durowe) cal. 5 – the only two companies to use in-house German movements. When Wempe purchased the Chronometerwerk in Hamburg in 1938, it gained a significant increase in production capacity, and to assist the limited production faced by Lange and Laco, Wempe assembled watches for them. To meet demand, Lange also sent ébauches and cases to a variety of other manufacturers for assembly and regulation. In smaller numbers, the Swiss International Watch Company IWC who supplied watches to both Axis and Allied forces, manufactured the B-Uhr (cal. 52T S.C.) for the Luftwaffe. These five companies were the only ones to make the B-Uhr.

Today, the available Lange or Wempe B-Uhren are vintage watches from the war, and if you can find one, they come with hefty price tags. IWC’s Big Pilot watch is an evolution from the B-Uhr, having its predecessor’s DNA, but sporting an adapted design. This is a watch made for aviation, and as such, retains an anti-magnetic feature – the only current watch to do so. Unlike its no-frills B-Uhr predecessor, the Big Pilot elevates the navigational concept to a higher echelon of quality and function, providing a luxury timepiece (see here).

Stowa, now owned by watchmaker Jörg Schauer, offers a nice homage to the B-Uhr in a dressier version (see here). The case is polished, the movement decorated, visible through a transparent case back, and the 40mm size is the smallest of this group. They also offer a date window option. Stowa makes a fine watch, but be prepared to wait for its arrival – demand far exceeds production.

Laco offers a wide range of movement choices, providing a greater range of affordability, but its watches featuring ETA and hand winding movements are the watches of note. In these, Laco produces what might be termed a reproduction, having carefully recreated the design of the original watch down to the smallest detail, from the dial design to the FL23883 engraved on the case’s side to the inner case back information ingeniously moved to the outside. These Laco watches measure 42mm and 45mm (see here). Both Stowa and Laco offer flame blued hands, sapphire crystal, riveted leather straps, superb luminosity and Type A and B models. Of the original manufacturers, IWC, Stowa and Laco each offer a contemporary B-Uhr choice.

The Kid Who Invented Versace

How Versace Brought Ancient Greek Mythology Into Fashion / VILLA VERSACE "Domus Aurea with Neo Classical Obsessions"

How Versace Brought Ancient Greek Mythology Into Fashion

By

Nick Kampouris

August 4, 2024

https://greekreporter.com/2024/08/04/versace-ancient-greek-mythology-fashion/

 

Ancient Greece has always captivated the minds of fashion designers, but Versace is the one brand that has so many clear connections to ancient Greek aesthetics that they just can’t be ignored.

 

In the world of luxury fashion, very few names shine as brightly as Versace. Renowned for its popular bold designs and sought-after elegance, Versace stands out for its true craftsmanship. However, what is obvious is that this loved-by-millions Italian brand has a deep-rooted connection to ancient Greek culture.

 

At the heart of this intriguing connection lies the brand’s iconic logo. Versace’s symbol is a sign that perfectly exemplifies the company’s affinity to a civilization that has long inspired the world in so many different fronts, including the world of fashion.

 

The roots of Versace’s love affair with ancient Greece

The brand was founded in 1978 by Gianni Versace. This Italian pioneer was a figure whose influence on the fashion industry remains unparalleled to this day.

 

Versace was born in 1946 in the south of Italy in Calabria, an area once known as “Magna Graecia” or “Greater Greece.” Versace grew up in a region that was surrounded by ancient Greek history and mythology. This influenced his creative vision deeply, as the environment in which he grew up was, in a sense, truly Greek. A prodigy in the world of design, he soon became known for his ability to blend classical elements of art with modern sensuality. This unique blend made Versace’s collections sought-after.

 

Grecian Delight supports Greece

Gianni’s fascination with the Greek culture and, particularly, ancient Greek aesthetics was, for him, both a stylistic choice and a real homage to a civilization that flourished in his birthplace and celebrated beauty, power, and the minimalistic human form.

 

Through his innovative designs, Versace redefined fashion. He mixed the opulence of ancient Greece with the special traits of contemporary life, leaving a legacy that continues to inspire.

 

Versace conquers the world of fashion

Due to his exceptional talent, it didn’t take long until the brand quickly rose to prominence. Versace became globally known for its innovative designs and daring nature, captivating the souls and minds of millions of customers worldwide.

 

Because Gianni’s childhood was marked by a clear interest in Greek mythology and history, this shaped his professional career deeply. It was a passion that would later be used in Versace’s creations with a unique and distinctive character. This fascination managed to become the foundation upon which the brand was built. Ancient Greek inspiration became key to defining the brand with the grandeur of ancient civilizations and obtaining its unique character.

 

The design patterns of Versace reflect the company’s deep admiration for the Greek culture, and this is abundantly evident by its use of motifs and themes that reflect the tales and choices of ancient Greece.

 

The relatively short journey of this glamorous brand exemplifies how Gianni Versace’s visionary approach merged the past with the present. His inspiration created garments that are not simply clothes. They are pieces of art as well as fashion statements.

 

The Medusa logo: The symbolism behind Versace’s iconic logo

The choice of Medusa as the logo of Versace is the frontal evidence of Gianni’s genius. Additionally, it showcased his ability to draw significant symbolism from ancient Greek mythology and turn it into powerful fashion messages.

 

According to Greek mythology, Medusa was once a beautiful maiden. However, her hair was turned into snakes by the goddess Athena as a form of punishment. This curse made her look so terrifying that people who dared to lay eyes on her would turn to stone.

 

 

Yet, for Versace, Medusa represented something completely different. For him, she was the definition of beauty, irresistibility, and represented the power of being different to the masses. This reinterpretation of Medusa’s popular story aligned perfectly with the image of the brand that Versace wanted to create. Today, the allure of Versace’s designs is undeniable. It continues to grow in popularity by captivating those who gaze upon their bold patterns.

 

At this point, we should point out that Medusa’s image also conveys a message of strength and empowerment. Through the eyes of Gianni Versace, these little things became traits that the company aspires to transfer to those who chose to use their products.

 

Of course, largely due to Versace, this emblem managed to become something bigger than a logo. It is a statement and declaration of the brand’s bold Greek inspirations. Through Medusa, Versace brought a message of beauty that transforms no matter how different it might look to the eyes of the ordinary people.

 

Versace’s timeless aesthetic inspired by ancient Greece

Versace’s timeless collections are a testament to the global appeal of Greek motifs and patterns. These ancient symbols have been cleverly adapted to fit today’s world of modern luxury fashion with great success.

 

The Greek key pattern, for example, also known as the meander or “meandros,” symbolizes the pure form of infinity and unity. This iconic element is always prominently featured in Versace’s clothing, accessories, and even the interiors of its boutique stores. It continues to serve as a constant reminder of the brand’s roots in ancient Greek art.

 

Each piece of the Versace line tells a story. It is a story of beauty and myth, of past and present. It ensures Versace’s followers that wearing their brand doesn’t just offer them a fashion statement but an experience and connection to the cultural heritage of Greece.

 

Versace’s journey beyond the runway

Following Gianni’s assasination in 1997, Donatella Versace, Gianni’s sister, took over. Under her leadership, the brand never stopped honoring its Greek-inspired heritage. Donatella’s tenure saw Versace embrace modern trends and technologies. Nonetheless, the essence of ancient Greece remained a cornerstone of the brand’s identity.

 

This delicate but beautiful balance between innovation and tradition has managed to ensure Versace’s place in the pantheon of luxury fashion. This is the reason why Versace’s influence extends beyond the runway. It became, over the years, a cultural icon with its designs featuring in movies, music videos, and red-carpet events.

 

The brand’s ability to stay relevant and continually reinvent itself while staying true to its roots is a testament to the lasting legacy of its founder and the timeless appeal of its Greek inspirations.

 

The timeless allure of Greek-inspired fashion

From the Medusa logo to the meander, Versace has masterfully crafted a modern way of paying respects to the rich heritage of Greece.

 

The brand has created a unique identity that is not just timeless but also exceptionally contemporary and modern. This serves as proof that the past can indeed inform the present.

VILLA VERSACE "Domus Aurea with Neo Classical Obsessions"

After the dramatic murder of Gianni Versace in Miami (1997 at the age of 50), the magnificent contents of his Villa on Lake Como were sold at Sotheby's in London on March 18, 2009, constituting an auction with 546 Lots

'Sotheby's' , London, 18 de March 2009

Netflix's 'The Perfect Couple' to Film in Chatham

Denise Coffey, George Kostinas  |  Cape Cod Times

23 hours ago

https://eu.capecodtimes.com/story/entertainment/movies/2024/09/05/netflix-perfect-couple-chatham-hyannis-nantucket-ma-elin-hilderbrand-kidman/75083983007/

 

Hollywood turns Chatham into Nantucket for filming of a Netflix series "The Perfect Couple based on Elin Hilderbrand novel of the same name.

"The Perfect Couple," a Netflix series starring Nicole Kidman, Dakota Fanning, Liev Schreiber and others, debuted today on the streaming service.

 

Adapted from Elin Hilderbrand’s 2018 novel of the same name, the murder mystery at a wedding is set on Nantucket and was filmed on the island, in Chatham and even in Hyannis for a day.

 

With the film’s release, viewers will get a glimpse into the lives of the rich and famous, or at least a glimpse inside the mind of Hilderbrand. Living on Nantucket since 1994, and with 28 books to her credit, she’s got a lot to offer those who want a stunningly visual read of her mystery.

 

A Chatham neighborhood is the backdrop

 

View |6 Photos

Photos: Picketers stop Netflix's filming of Perfect Couple in Chatham

Writers and supporters of the Writers Guild of America picketed two locations of the Perfect Couple during production on the Cape last year.

The private Eastward Point neighborhood in Chatham serves as a backdrop for the family drama. It’s not hard to imagine the gorgeous home fronting Pleasant Bay fitting right in on Nantucket.

 

And to give that real Nantucket feel to the story there are scenes from the island itself.

 

Filming in 2023 was interrupted when members of the Writers Guild of America and their supporters picketed Chatham sites. Streets in the neighborhood were blocked off during the shooting of the film to keep the picketers, and curious bystanders away.

 

 

View |5 Photos

Pertfect Couple Netflix series filming Hyannis Inner Harbor

Production crews for the Netflix movie The Perfect Couple filled the Hyannis Inner Harbor filming several scenes around the Grey Lady Ferry.

How 'Perfect Couple' film crews made Chatham into Nantucket

In April 2023, on Orleans Road in North Chatham, film crews constructed a fake Nantucket police station between Chatham Light Liquors and the Chatham Perk coffee shop. A white entrance way with columns and a sign reading "Nantucket Police," went up, right in front two vehicles marked as Nantucket police cars.

 

The Chatham Light Liquors store on the left had a new sign: Grey Lady Liquors, and on the Chatham Perk coffee shop on the right there is a sign that read “Lighthouse Perk.”

 

With those modifications to the Northport Plaza parking lot, a section of Chatham was transformed into a location on the island of Nantucket for the filming of Netflix's new six-part series of "The Perfect Couple."

 

Why Chatham?

Sean Gibbons, a location production assistant for the series, said, generally, that filming in Chatham — rather than filming the whole show in Nantucket with its ferry requirements and other transportation limitations — was a matter of convenience, and it gave the production company the ability to closely approximate Nantucket.

 

More about 'The Perfect Couple'

The mystery brings viewers into the lives of a rich and famous Nantucket couple preparing for the wedding of their son. Nicole Kidman stars as Greer Garrison Winbury, mystery writer and mother of the groom, Thomas Winbury (Billy Howle). Liev Schreiber is Greer’s husband, Tag. Bride Amelia Sacks is played by Eve Hewson and Dakota Fanning is sister-in-law Abby Winbury.

 

Hilderbrand’s novel shot to the top of The New York Times bestseller list weeks after its release in 2018. With 28 romance novels to her name, Hildenbrand is known as the “queen of beach reads,” and her website proves it. Book covers showcase sailboats, waves and water, couples in sunlight and under beach umbrellas. Books are grouped into summer, winter and paradise sections. This novel is her first mystery involving a death, according to Super Summary.

The Perfect Couple | Behind the Scenes | Netflix

Wrist Watches of WWII - Horology In Combat / The 'Dirty Dozen,'

In-Depth The 'Dirty Dozen,' An Incredible Collection Of 12 (Mostly) Inexpensive Military Watches

The first non-civilian wristwatches ever used by British forces, they are some of the most sought after military timepieces today.

 

Arthur Touchot

July 25, 2016

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/dirty-dozen-twelve-military-watches

 

The Dirty Dozen is the name of a movie from the 1960s, depicting the misadventures of 12 fictional soldiers during the Second World War. It is also, in watch collecting circles, the name given to a group of 12 watches worn by those who actually fought in it – specifically, British soldiers. They were commissioned by the British Ministry of Defense (MoD) during World War II, and while they may not be as highly rated as other military watches when they are presented individually, as a set, they become some of the most collectible – specifically (but not exclusively), by British collectors.

 

The British military had always been equipped with the most contemporary timekeepers of their era, from the marine chronometers of Harrison, John Arnold, and other horological pioneers, which gave the Royal Navy the essential ability to reliably determine longitude at sea, to "unbreakable glass" wristwatches advertised by Smiths watches during the First World War. But, when Great Britain declared war on Germany in 1939, few local watch companies could compete with Switzerland’s greater production capabilities, and those still in the business of making components were asked to focus their efforts on building military parts for the Air Force and the Navy.

 

Switzerland would export large quantities of watches and pocket watches during WWII, to both the Allied Forces and the Germans, but these were civilian market orders which pre-dated the war. The MoD thought these were not suitable to the needs of British soldiers, and decided to place an order for custom-built wristwatches. These needed to be accurate, reliable and durable, which in watchmaking terms meant they had to be regulated to chronometer standards, and also be waterproof and shockproof.

 

The watches also had to have a black dial, Arabic numerals, luminous hour and minute hands, luminous hour markers, a railroad minute track, a shatterproof crystal, and a stainless-steel case. Powering them would be 15-jewel movements, measuring between 11.75 and 13 lignes.

 

Twelve companies would fulfill this brief: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex.

 

Each manufacturer delivered as many watches as their production capabilities would allow. Though official numbers have not been released by the MoD, we believe the largest companies were able to take orders of up to 25,000, while smaller manufacturers produced around 5,000 pieces – only IWC, JLC, and Omega kept a strict record of their order: respectively 6,000, 10,000,  and 25,000. Collectively, they would export around 150,000 wristwatches to Britain during the second half of 1945, classified for "General Service" but issued to special units, including radio operators, and artillery staff members.

 

The Dirty Dozen are easily identifiable by the engraving on the back. The three Ws, which stand for for Watch, Wrist, Waterproof, identify the watches as government property and indicate the type of good in order to distinguish them from weaponry. Other defining features include Broad Arrow heads, on the dial, inner case, and at the back, and two more lines of engravings at the back: a military serial number – a capital letter followed by up to five digits – above a second, standard civil serial number - some watches have the civil one on the inner case. (The use of the Broad Arrow for government goods goes all the way back to Sir Philip Sidney, Joint Master of the Ordnance in 1585, whose family used the Broad Arrow in its coat of arms.)

 

Today, hundreds if not thousands of collectors own military watches commissioned by the MoD. But very few collectors – some suggest less than 20 in the world – own a complete set of “The Dirty Dozen” in original condition. Why? Because, even though so many were made and most can be found relatively easily, others like the Grana pose a much great challenge.

 

Not because it looks any different, or any better than the other eleven – it doesn’t. In fact, collectors typically point to other watches when you ask them which one they find most attractive. As ever when rating watches based on looks alone, no one seems to agree.

 

However, most point to the Longines as their favorite. Its contemporary size (38 mm) and the stepped case make it one of the most interesting. Others swear by IWC’s version of the W.W.W, also known as the Mark X, which has inspired its own dedicated following, and spawned a line of successors which continues to grow to this day – this year’s Mark XVIII being the latest.

 

 

But of the Dozen, none is more desirable than the Grana, simply because it is by far the most difficult to find. According to Konrad Knirim’s book British Military Timepieces, less than 5,000, and perhaps even only 1,000, were made for the MoD, making it the rarest of the lot.

 

Considering the scarcity and history behind that watch, it’s perhaps surprising to learn that it’s still within the realm of the affordable. When they come up, as one did recently during the Watches of Knightsbridge July auction, they typically have a minimum asking price around $7,000. That's seven times what collectors pay for the most common W.W.W, but far, far less than six-figure Milsubs.

 

Then there are the other eleven. Funding an entire collection requires deep pockets, and collecting the Dirty Dozen – especially if you want them in original condition – is not without its pitfalls. Due to the extreme conditions they were subjected to, many of them were repaired and restored at some point during their lifetime. And that meant being sent back to the Corps of Royal Electrical & Mechanical Engineers (R.E.M.E), which dealt with all mechanical equipment in need of maintenance or repair, including watches worn by military personnel.

 

Of course, the Corps had little interest in preserving the originality of the watches that came back. Their primary concern was to get them back in the field as quickly as possible, and they found it much more practical and time efficient to restore watches using MoD replacement parts of lower quality and in some cases, with parts from other models. Mistakes were made, especially when changing case backs. And then there's what happened after the war. In the 1960s, dials containing radium and promethium were replaced by non-radioactive dials (the Longines and the IWC in the Watches of Knightsbridge are both examples of this practice).

 

Because of this, collectors should tread carefully when acquiring these watches online or through auctions, if the originality of the piece is their primary concern.

 

Besides the Grana, the most elusive W.W.Ws are those which returned, albeit briefly, to MoD at the end of the war in Europe. Those that could be saved, or did not need saving, were sold to other Allied forces still engaged on other fronts, such as the Pakistani Military, the Dutch Military and the Indonesian military. These have a fourth line of engraving, identifying the watches’ new owners.

 

Final Thoughts

There are about as many reasons to collect watches, as there are watch collectors in this world. For some, they are way to connect with an important part of our history. For others, the motivation comes from the thrill of finding a rare piece. The Dirty Dozen satisfies them both.

 

And then there are those who seek watches of great and undeniable beauty. By their nature, military watches offer little to that type of collector, though many find the honesty of their design incredibly satisfying in itself.

 

Finally, there’s the straightforward challenge of collecting The Dozen. Twelve. It’s a number that sounds dangerously attainable, especially when you consider the prices of the most common models, and large enough to cement the credibility of the collection by size alone. But it's much, much harder than it sounds.

Ancient Roman Arch of Constantine damaged after violent storm | ABS-CBN ...

Constantine Arch in Rome damaged by lightning during violent storm

 

Residents tell of ‘apocalyptic scenes’ after more than 60mm of rainfall falls on Italian capital in less than an hour

 

Lorenzo Tondo in Palermo

Wed 4 Sep 2024 08.31 EDT

https://www.theguardian.com/world/article/2024/sep/04/constantine-arch-in-rome-damaged-lightening-violent-storm

 

Lightning has struck the Constantine Arch near the Colosseum in Rome during a violent thunderstorm, breaking off fragments from the ancient structure, officials have said.

 

The fragments were immediately gathered and secured by workers at the Colosseum Archeological Park, authorities in the Italian capital said. The extent of the damage, which occurred on Tuesday, was being evaluated.

 

“The recovery work by technicians was timely. Our workers arrived immediately after the lightning strike. All of the fragments were recovered and secured,” the park said in a statement.

 

Rome was hit by a sudden and powerful storm that dumped more than 60mm of rain in less than an hour, equivalent to a month’s rainfall in autumn. The city’s mayor, Roberto Gualtieri, described it as a “downburst”.

 

A storm with powerful downward winds was also reported off Sicily on 19 August, when the luxury yacht Bayesian sank, killing the British tech magnate Mike Lynch and six others.

 

After Tuesday’s rains, Sabrina Alfonsi, Rome’s councillor with responsibility for the environment, said: “The power of the storm was sudden and was not predicted by any weather bulletin.”

 

Residents have described “apocalyptic scenes”, with flooded subways, squares and streets. A part of the scaffolding of a grandstand inside the Circus Maximus also collapsed.

 

Meteorologists say record temperatures in the Mediterranean Sea have contributed to the freak storms that have hit Italy this summer. Sea temperature have reached 30C, three degrees higher than average, during two months of consecutive heatwaves.

 

Extreme rainfall is more common and more intense because of human-caused climate breakdown since warmer air can hold more water vapour.

 

Last week, during another violent storm, lightning struck a building in the Castelverde area of Rome, causing a fire.

 

In 2023, there were 378 extreme climate events in Italy, an increase of 22% on 2022, according to a report by the environmental agency Legambiente, published last December, with experts predicting such events will become more frequent and more intense.

The Pilot Watch That Helped Save The World - 1 Year With My Greatest Ome...

Technical Data

Reference

CK 2444

International collection

1945

Case material

Stainless steel

Vintage watch watchcase type

Screw‑in

Water resistance

3 bar (30 metres / 100 feet)

Movement

Movement type

Manual winding (mechanical)

Caliber number

30 T2 RS

The remake of the "Railroad Model" of LEE

 

Fit for purpose and made to last, this season's Lee 101 workwear jacket pays homage to simpler times and sturdy styles we made for farmers, miners, railroad workers, mechanics, and laborers back in the day. Fashioned after the #91-J or the "Railroad Model" of 1925, this contemporary rendition of the loco jacket comes with all the distinctive details that have made it a wardrobe staple for so many years. It comes with traditional Lee 101 workwear labels and brass buttons for a touch of authenticity as well as plenty of pocket space for all your essentials

the VAT on Eton school fees

Eton to raise fees to £63,000 in response to VAT change

 

Eton to raise fees to £63,000 in response to VAT change

 

Other private schools say they will absorb some of the cost of the removal of VAT exemption

 

Tobi Thomas

Fri 30 Aug 2024 17.40 BST

https://www.theguardian.com/education/article/2024/aug/30/eton-fees-increase-vat-private-schools

 

Eton college has sent a letter to parents saying it will raise its fees by a fifth in response to the government’s removal of the VAT exemption on private schools. The annual fees will increase from £52,749 to about £63,000.

 

In the letter, the school said: “The provost and fellows regret that the government has chosen to tax education in this way.

 

“Furthermore, we are disappointed that the introduction of VAT will take place partway through an academic year and at short notice. We recognise the concern that will be felt by many parents following this announcement.”

 

From January the government will remove the VAT exemption and business rates relief for private schools, in order to generate funding for 6,500 new teachers in state schools.

 

Currently, independent schools do not have to charge 20% VAT on their fees because there is an exemption for the supply of education.

 

The largest private girls’ school trust has also announced that it will raise its fees by 12% from the new year over the government’s VAT plans.

 

The Girls’ Day School Trust (GDST), which represents 23 private schools in England including Wimbledon high school, Blackheath high school and Shrewsbury high school, said it would absorb the remaining 8%.

 

A 12% increase in the average national annual fees for a day school of £18,064 would bring them to £20,232.

 

In a letter to parents this week, the GDST said: “Since the government’s announcement at the end of July, we have worked at pace to deliver on our commitment to reduce appreciably the overall financial impact of these tax changes on your fees.

 

“Following a detailed review of our costs and approval from trustees, we are now in a position to confirm that fees, inclusive of VAT, will rise by 12% from January 2025.

 

“We have managed to mitigate the full financial impact of 20% VAT and the removal of business rates relief by using the opportunities that our size and scale provide, and by passing on any benefit we may receive should we be able to reclaim VAT on other aspects of our running costs.

 

The largest proportion of our outgoings is investment in our staff, which we will not compromise on in our delivery of the academic, co-curricular and pastoral excellence you expect from our schools. We appreciate the financial pressures that will be felt by many of our families.”

 

The government has been contacted for comment.