Selfridge in around 1880
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Harry Gordon Selfridge circa 1910
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IN SEPTEMBER 2012:
The man who knew what women wanted: As BBC
and ITV go to war over shopping dramas, the extraordinary story behind the real
Mr Selfridge - a philanderer, visionary and wedding list inventor - is revealed
By LINDY WOODHEAD
PUBLISHED: 29 September 2012 / http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2210421/Mr-Selfridge-Extraordinary-story-retailing-visionary-revealed.html
BBC1’s The Paradise will soon face a rival
period drama in the schedules set around a great department store: Mr Selfridge
on ITV1.
Telling the colourful, turbulent life of
the American retailing genius who founded his store in 1909, it’s based on the
book Shopping, Seduction & Mr Selfridge by Lindy Woodhead.
Here she tells the story of the
extraordinary man who created the retail experience we know today.
Harry Selfridge was unique. With his waxed
moustache and fastidious dress sense he was the epitome of tradition yet
empowered women by offering them a whole new shopping experience. A loving
husband who adored his wife, he cheated on her with a succession of stars,
including dancers Isadora Duncan and Anna Pavlova.
A true visionary, he enjoyed fabulous
wealth but died virtually destitute. He was once mistaken for a tramp as he
stood on Oxford Street
gazing at the vast emporium that had been his life.
It was a long journey from humble
beginnings in Ripon , Wisconsin , a remote hamlet, where he was
born in 1858. Three years later, his shopkeeper father Robert went to fight in
the Civil War. He survived the war but never returned, leaving his wife Lois
and three sons behind. She struggled on her teacher’s wage, and when her sons
Charles and Robert died she focused all her love on Harry.
She drilled into him the importance of
beautiful manners and taking care of his appearance. Mother and son lived
together until she died, in 1924. Thanks to her, he understood women’s needs in
a way few men could.
Harry left school at 14 to work for a bank
and aged 18 got a job as a sock boy at a Chicago
department store, Marshall Field & Coe. Within four years, he was assisting
the general manager. Three years later, he had taken his job.
Field’s was Chicago ’s most prestigious store but too
formal for Harry. He was dubbed ‘Mile-A-Minute-Harry’ as he swept through
making changes. Huge advances in dazzling technology helped. He installed
dozens of phones; increased the lighting and even lit the beautiful window
displays at night – a first for a Chicago
store.
Thanks to Harry, Field’s offered
flower-arranging classes, gave home-décor advice and introduced the idea of the
wedding gift list, and set up a parcel and coat depositary for customers to
leave their belongings before shopping.
He also created what was possibly the first
US
in-store restaurant. Opened in 1890, Field’s Tea Room served ‘light luncheon’
dishes at tables bedecked with crisp linen, with a fresh rose in a crystal
vase. Just 60 diners ate there the first day. Within a year, it had more than
1,500 covers daily.
In 1904 he set up a rival store in Chicago and sold it two
years later for a quick profit. His wife, Rosalie, the daughter of a wealthy
property investor, gave him her blessing to move to London to plan his dream store. She stayed in
America
with their four children.
He chose a site on Oxford Street and turned to Chicago ’s supreme
architect Daniel Burnham to design something extraordinary. Fifteen hundred
workmen toiled all winter to build the immense steel-framed structure: a
neo-classical façade fronted a modern masterwork that included seven miles of
pressurised copper tubing in the fire-alarm system alone.
It was a marvel: nine Otis lifts; a
state-of-the-art sprinkler system; thick concrete floors spanning an acre per
level. Not eight storeys as Harry had wanted (planning restrictions didn’t allow
it to be taller than St Paul ’s)
but still a hugely impressive five floors, plus three basement levels and a
roof terrace with a garden.
Selfridge & Co opened in 1909, on a wet
March day: but inside all was warm and bright. More than 100 departments sold
everything from swimsuits to sable
coats, all exquisitely arranged in spacious surroundings.
In no small way, Harry helped to liberate
women. He gave them the freedom to shop un-chaperoned, the pleasure of lunch
with a girlfriend in the safe haven of a store, and rare sensual delights and
comforts, with music playing and the scent of perfume in the air. Aside from
elegant restaurants, Selfridge & Co had a library, reading and writing
rooms, a first-aid room, a silence room with soft furnishings, a hairdressers
and a manicure service.
Harry liked to say: ‘I helped emancipate
women. I came along when they wanted to step out on their own. They came to the
store and realised some of their dreams.’
Men or women, customer comfort was a
priority. Believing shopping should be both a visual and tactile experience –
not one needing a sales clerk to open a cabinet – he put merchandise on low
counter tops so people could feel and touch it.
The spirit of the age was on Harry’s side.
He sold telephones, refrigerators, ice-making machines – even aeroplanes. He
pioneered the celebrity appearance: world champion Freda Whittaker skated on
the roof-top rink, while Wimbledon champion
Suzanne Lenglen demonstrated her service on the roof-top court.
Television was demonstrated to the public
for the first time at Selfridges in 1925 when Logie Baird brought in his
odd-looking equipment that would so change our lives in years to come.
Harry’s instinctive skills in enticing
tourists meant that before long he could boast: ‘We are the third biggest
tourist attraction in London after Buckingham Palace and the Tower.’
But Harry’s life outside the store was very
different. A friend said: ‘He was a genius from 9am until 5pm but a fool at the
weekends.’ Although his wife eventually followed him to London , Harry enjoyed the company of some of
the most renowned beauties of the day. A lover of celebrity, he courted the
dancer Isadora Duncan, ballerina Anna Pavlova, author Elinor Glyn, Syrie
Wellcome – the wife of pharmaceutical millionaire Henry Wellcome – and Lady
Victoria Sackville.
From 1912, his grand amour – seemingly
tolerated by the patient Rose – was the glittering chanteuse Gaby Deslys. He
arranged a house for her in London
and filled it with rugs, linen, silver, china and crystal from Selfridges.
Thanks to the commercial success of his store,
he was able to make palatial residences his home: he leased Highcliffe Castle
in Christchurch ,
Hampshire, as his country home and sprawling Lansdowne House as his town house.
Despite his philandering, Harry was
devastated when Rose died in the post-war influenza pandemic. Several years
later his mother died too. Without these two women in his life Harry’s
womanising and love of gambling spiralled out of control. In 1921, when £500
was a very good annual salary, he lost £5,000 at casinos.
Now he turned to a new generation of
willing showgirls including the Dolly Sisters, Jenny and Rose, a toxic pair who
were also gambling addicts. The three would make frequent visits to the casinos
in Nice. It’s thought the girls spent £5 million of his fortune.
As the world entered the Great Depression,
he was woefully unprepared for the slump, over-extended and isolated by his own
vanity. In 1939, at the age of 81, 30 years after building Selfridges,
revolutionising London
retailing and creating what would be known as the greatest shopping street in
the world, Harry Selfridge was ousted from the store he had always thought of
his own.
The man they used to call ‘the Earl of
Oxford Street’, who had adored living in lavish houses that befitted a true
merchant prince, was reduced to penury, living in a small rented flat in Putney
with one of his daughters.
In his final years, he would stand at his
local bus stop on Putney High
Street , searching for a 22 bus. Virtually deaf, his mind rambling, he hardly
spoke. Still wearing curiously old-fashioned, formal clothes, his patent
leather boots cracked and down-at-heel, he moved stiffly, aided by a Malacca
cane.
On the bus, he would carefully count out
the pennies for his fare, buying a ticket to Hyde Park Corner, where he got off
to wait for a 137, quietly telling the conductor: ‘Selfridges please.’
Seemingly lost in memories of past glories,
unrecognised by anybody, the old man would shuffle the length of the building,
looking up to the roof as though searching for something. It was on one such
occasion the police arrested him, suspecting he was a vagrant.
Harry died peacefully in his sleep on May
8, 1947. He was 89 years old. He was buried in a humble grave near his late
wife and mother in a churchyard in Highcliffe. His family couldn’t afford a
headstone.
But his legacy remains. Harry said: ‘When I die, I want it said of me that
I dignified and ennobled commerce.’ ITV’s new drama will remind us how he did
just that.
Advertisement for the opening of the
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Rosalie Selfridge, circa 1900
During the years of the Great Depression,
Selfridge watched his fortune rapidly decline and then disappear—a situation
not helped by his continuous free-spending ways. In 1941, he left Selfridges
and moved from his lavish home and travelled around
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Retail pioneer Harry
Selfridge is laid to rest in a simple grave in rural Dorset
In 1909 he opened
Selfridges, changing shopping forever
A church committee
member called the state of his grave 'a disgrace'
By SAM WEBB
PUBLISHED: 20:34 GMT, 10 February 2013 | http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2276623/The-forgotten-grave-Mr-Selfridge-Tombstone-mark-burial-place-famous-shop-owner-left-dilapidated-sorry-state.html
The sleepy Dorset village of Highcliffe is a million miles
away from the hustle and bustle of London's Oxford Street, but here lies one of
its most famous traders.
The simple grave of Harry Gordon Selfridge at St Mark's
Churchyard contains no clues about the lavish lifestyle the man who
revolutionised shopping once led.
Selfridge was the American entrepreneur behind Selfridge's,
London’s famous department store, a self-made millionaire who turned retail on
its head because he understood what women wanted and gave it to them in style.
The grave is covered in leaves and lies at the base of an
ivy hedgerow, inscribed with only the few simple words 'IN LOVING MEMORY HARRY
GORDON SELFRIDGE 1857 - 1947'.
Selfridge is laid to rest, separated by two unmarked graves,
next to his wife Rosalie 'Rose' Buckingham.
During the years of the Great Depression, Selfridge watched
his fortune rapidly decline and then disappear - a situation not helped by his
continuing free-spending ways.
In 1941, he left Selfridges and moved from his lavish home.
In 1947 he died, aged 91, in
straitened circumstances at Putney, in south-west London.
At the height of his fortune, Selfridge leased as his family
home Highcliffe Castle in Hampshire (now Dorset)
A member of the church committee who would not be named,
said: 'It's a total shame and a disgrace that the grave of an enormously great
man, be left without the due care and attention it so rightly deserves.'
Harry Selfridge’s incredible story — from the backwoods of
Wisconsin to becoming the ‘Earl of Oxford Street’ — is now being told in an
ITV1 drama, Mr Selfridge.
Based on Lindy Woodhead’s biography Shopping, Seduction
& Mr Selfridge, it stars Jeremy Piven as Selfridge, and Zoe Tapper as a
cocaine-snorting showgirl who becomes his mistress.
Harry Selfridge had a tough start in life. Born in 1856, his
father deserted the family when he was just five, and his two older brothers
later died, leaving Harry and his mother alone.
After getting a job as a lowly sock boy in a Chicago
department store, Harry swiftly rose to the top and eventually opened his own
store.
At first leaving his wife, Rose, and their four children in
the U.S., he bought the now famous site on Oxford Street and set about creating
a palatial, five-storey store. It opened in 1909 and was a sensation.
Selfridge was an inspired retailer. He invented the phrase
‘the customer is always right’, understood that shopping was about sex appeal
and made Selfridge’s a London landmark.
If true, it qualifies as one of the few monumental events that shows America had as enormous an influence upon British Society, as the British have influenced American Society, however the history is chosen to be deprocating, as this article seems to do.
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