Donald John
Mackay lives on the Isle of Harris in Scotland and produces the much
sought-after, hand-woven Harris Tweed. When in 2004 he was able to secure a
deal with Nike he played a key role in introducing Harris Tweed back to the
mainstream market, where it is now available in numerous fashion lines around
the world.
Hurrah for
National Tweed Day!
Camilla
Swift
3 April 2014
As I’m sure
many of you will be aware, today is a very important day: National Tweed Day.
To be honest, I don’t quite understand why they chose the first day of Aintree
rather than some time during Cheltenham, but hey ho. The 3rd April it is.
Tweed might
be seen as a bit of a fuddy-duddy fabric, more suited to young fogeys and
Cirencester types than the catwalk. But in recent years it has seen something
of a renaissance, and the tweed industry – particularly Harris tweed – can be
seen as something of a British success story.
In the
2000s, Harris tweed was struggling. In 2009, one mill on Stornaway was forced
to close due to falling sales; in 2008 just 500,000 metres of the cloth were
produced. But since then tweed has firmly put itself back on the map, with
brands from Nike to Chanel using it in their designs. In 2012, over a million
metres of Harris tweed were produced; the highest output in over 15 years. They
still have some way to go (in the ‘60s, about seven million metres were
produced a year), but things are certainly on the up. Strict guidelines also
ensure that it’s not turned into a mass-produced item, as they insist that the
tweed is hand woven in islanders’ homes, rather than in factories.
Politics
has certainly played its part. Since 1909, the Harris Tweed Association has
protected the use of the name ‘Harris Tweed’ from imitations. In 1993 the
fabric was granted its own Act of Parliament, the Harris Tweed Act 1993, which
granted the tweed its own legal definition:
‘Harris
Tweed means a tweed which has been hand woven by the islanders at their homes
in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the islands of Harris, Lewis, North Uist,
Benbecula, South Uist and Barra and their several purtenances (The Outer
Hebrides) and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides.’
These days,
the Harris Tweed Authority stamps and inspects every 50 metres of Harris tweed,
meaning that no imposters can creep through the cracks. That doesn’t stop
people from trying though. Even the BBC has tried to bring in some phonies; in
2011 they came under attack when it was found that the production of Matt
Smith’s new Dr Who jacket had been outsourced to China.
So there
you go; I hope you’re all wearing your tweed with pride today. And if anyone is
off to the Outer Hebrides anytime soon, I’d recommend you pay a visit to Donald
John MacKay (MBE, no less!) in what he describes as ‘just a shed behind a
house, on a road by the sea’. I can assure you, you won’t be disappointed by
either the islands or their tweeds.
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