US suit retailer files for bankruptcy as joggers and polo shirts take over
Tailored Brands, owner of Men’s Wearhouse and JoS. A.
Bank, hit by Covid-19 lockdown-driven shifts in workwear
Priya Elan
Deputy fashion editor
Tue 4 Aug
2020 20.18 BSTLast modified on Wed 5 Aug 2020 04.36 BST
US company
Tailored Brands, which controls Men’s Wearhouse and JoS. A. Bank, has become
the latest mens suit specialists to file for bankruptcy in the US as office
workers stay home during the pandemic.
The
company, which operated about 1,400 stores and employed 1,800 workers, filed
for Chapter 11 protection in Houston, Texas.
CEO Dinesh
Lathi said: “The unprecedented impact of Covid-19 requires us to further adapt
and evolve. Reaching an agreement with our lenders represents a critical
milestone toward our goal of becoming a stronger company that has the financial
and operational flexibility to compete and win in the rapidly evolving retail
environment.”
The
coronavirus has kept millions of office workers at home and out of shops that
sell suits. In June, Tailored Brands reported that net sales had fallen by 60%
in the previous three months, compared with the same period last year. As well
as Men’s Wearhouse and JoS. A. Bank, J. Crew and Brooks Brothers have both
declared bankruptcy in the last few months.
UK stores
have also seen a decline in suit sales. In May Marks & Spencer boss Steve
Rowe told the Guardian: “We are barely selling any suits and the number of ties
I could probably count on one hand.”
It’s a
similar story in Japan where brands such as Aoyama Trading have pivoted away
from suits towards casual shirts and facemasks. Even before the pandemic,
factors such as the “cool biz” campaign in the summer to save energy by raising
air-conditioning thermostats have pushed corporate Japan towards a more casual
look.
While
corporate dress codes have been gradually relaxing over the past decade, the
current crisis has accelerated the demise of the traditional suit and radically
shifted attitudes towards workwear. Instead of formal workwear there has been a
rise in comfortable and practical work from home staples such as joggers and
“Zoom shirts” (smart shirts only worn for Zoom work calls).
Tara Drury,
senior fashion and retail analyst at data marketing company Edited, said: “Many
tailoring-focused brands started promoting ‘business-on-top’ looks as video calls
became the norm, featuring dress shirts paired with relaxed trousers and smart
joggers. While this did help push sales for smarter shirting, retailers shifted
focus to polo shirts (which is) the new smart-casual alternative.”
The
blurring of office wear and homewear can be seen in the latest data from
Lyst.co.uk, which charts the most searched for clothing items on the internet:
searches for the functional Birkenstocks increased by 225%.
Drury said she believed the “dress down Friday” look would become the new normal, with an office look compromising of “smart joggers or drawstring trousers paired with a stretch blazer or knitted polo shirt”.
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