REMEMBERING January 2015:
THE ENGLISH GENTLEMAN AT APSLEY HOUSE
https://theenglishgentlemanlondon.com/apsley-house/
In the year
commemorating the bicentenary of the Battle of Waterloo, the Woolmark Company,
the tailors of Savile Row and the shirt and shoemakers of St James’s hosted the
fourth LC:M presentation at the former home of the 1st Duke of Wellington, who
led Britain to victory in the famous battle.
The origins
of British menswear lie in the tailors, shirtmakers and bootmakers who made the
military uniforms for our forces. Hence, the military tradition on Savile Row
dates back to its earliest days, and as part of that tradition there is a
strong connection with the uniforms of the cavalry and equestrianism in
general.
At Apsley
house, the residence of the Duke of Wellington, during the bicentenary year of
the Battle of Waterloo, The English Gentleman project took over the space, much
of it designed by Robert Adam, one of the 18th century’s leading architects.
As well as
some real soldiers wearing their real dress uniforms, we showed a variety of
outfits inspired by the sartorial traditions of the British military, and
particularly, in honour of Wellington’s charger, Copenhagen, which he rode at
Waterloo, by those of the British cavalry. Some items, like the woollen
greatcoat, have now made a complete transition to ‘Civvy Street’, while others
such as high-buttoning tunic-jackets still evoke the spirit of the barracks.
And though the cavalry twill trousers on show in the Striped Room (matched with
white riding shirts and riding boots by the Queen’s bootmaker) may not
immediately suggest military service, they do bring to mind saddles and
stables.
In the
Yellow Drawing Room, hacking jackets with velvet collars worn with moleskin
trousers evoke the spirit of the hunt, as do genuine Savile Row-made riding
jackets and jodhpurs on the Principal Staircase.
Then, for
ceremonial occasions – including those relating to state functions – there is
always the theatrical formality of white tie, which is still today a speciality
of Savile Row and St James’s. In the Waterloo Gallery, as if standing to
attention for the Iron Duke himself, we gathered together some of the finest
examples of contemporary White Tie – which, of course, are perfectly emblematic
of the continuing skill of the tailor’s art.
THE EVENTS
OF THE DAY
Apsley
House is one of Britain’s most prestigious addresses. With its lavish interiors
and regal splendour, the London home of the 1st Duke of Wellington provided a
suitably distinguished setting for the January 2015 English Gentleman
presentation.
Each
magnificent room in the Grade-I listed townhouse, featuring an abundance of
beautiful art, elegant interiors and rich history, helped create a story around
the clothes, which were inspired by military and equestrian design.
48 live
models took part to showcase the bespoke creations. Many lined the central
Robert Adam’s stairwell, named after the House’s original architect, which is
set behind the imposing ‘Napoleon as Mars the Peacemaker’ sculpture by Italian
Neoclassical artist Antonio Canova. The Waterloo Gallery, its red walls lined
with exquisite gilt-framed paintings, is arguably the most visually spectacular
room at Apsley House. It was here that live models donned military-inspired
regalia in greatcoats and overcoats by Anderson & Sheppard, Chittleborough
& Morgan and Ede & Ravenscroft. On the other side of the room, the mood
took on a more formal aesthetic with white-tie ensembles in black and
midnight-blue tailcoats complemented by Emma Willis shirts and accessories and
dress shoes from George Cleverley.
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