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Friday 13 September 2024
Wednesday 11 September 2024
Tuesday 10 September 2024
The J.Crew Catalog Is Back—and Preppier Than Ever
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The
J.Crew Catalog Is Back—and Preppier Than Ever
The heritage
brand relaunched an updated version of the iconic booklet with its fall
campaign taking center stage.
By Sophie DweckPublished: Sep 04, 2024 2:59 PM EDT
https://www.townandcountrymag.com/style/fashion-trends/a62057550/jcrew-catalog-relaunch-news-2024/
Seven years after J.Crew discontinued its iconic mail-order
catalog that reached thousands of dedicated American shoppers for decades, the
heritage brand has relaunched a new version with its fall campaign taking
center stage.
So what can the J.Crew shoppers of 2024 expect? The updated
catalog features the label's signature preppy aesthetic that readers have known
and loved for years, but with a contemporary twist. It's filled to the brim
with campaign imagery, but the latest booklet makes space for editorial content
with Q&A interviews as well.
J.Crew plans to publish three times per year, starting with
the the current fall catalog which comes in four different covers, including
one with '90s icon and J.Crew mega-fan Demi Moore. According to the brand, each
catalog will also "spotlight a mix of multi-generational faces that
capture the essence of J.Crew’s city-meets-coast DNA."
Inside the pages of the Fall catalog, which was crafted in
partnership with Parisian-based creative design studio Atelier Franck Durand,
you'll find all sorts of coastal-inspired looks featuring pieces from J.Crew's
new collection, as well as slew of country essentials (think: barn jackets and
wool coats) and fall city staples, such as blazers, loafers, and cashmere
sweaters.
In addition to the printed edition, the catalog will be
available in all J.Crew stores as an immersive in-app experience and will be
integrated in a variety of consumer-focused activations in New York City
throughout September.
Sophie Dweck
Sophie Dweck is the associate shopping editor for Town &
Country, where she covers beauty, fashion, home and décor, and more.
REMEMBERING: The Rise And Fall Of J.Crew
J.Crew Group, Inc., is an American multi-brand,
multi-channel, specialty retailer. The company offers an assortment of women's,
men's, and children's apparel and accessories, including swimwear, outerwear,
lounge-wear, bags, sweaters, denim, dresses, suiting, jewelry, and shoes.
As of August 2016, it operated more than 450
retail stores throughout the United States. The company conducts its business
through retail, factory, crew cuts, Madewell stores, catalogs, and online.
On May 4, 2020, the company announced that it
would apply for bankruptcy protection amidst the COVID-19 pandemic.
History
Formation
and catalog growth
In 1947,
Mitchell Cinader and Saul Charles founded Popular Merchandise, Inc., a store
that did business as Popular Club Plan and sold low-priced women's clothing
marketed through in-home demonstrations.[6] Throughout the mid-1980s, sales
from catalog operations grew rapidly. "Growth was explosive—25 to 30
percent a year," Cinader later recollected in The New York Times. Annual
sales grew from $3 million to more than $100 million over five years.[6] In
1985, the "Clifford & Wills" brand was launched, selling women's
clothing that was more affordable than the Popular Merchandise line. In 1987,
two executives left the company to start their own catalog, Tweeds.
The 1980s
marked a booming sales period for catalog retail giants Lands' End, Talbots,
and L. L. Bean. Popular Merchandise initiated its own catalog operation,
focusing on leisurewear for upper-middle-class customers, aiming for a Ralph
Lauren look at a much lower price. The first Popular Club Plan catalog was
mailed to customers in January 1983 and continued under that name until 1989.
Popular Club Plan catalogs often showed the same garment in more than one
picture with close-up shots of the fabrics, so customers could get a sense of
how the garment looked on the body and be assured of the company's claims of
quality.
Name change
and first stores
In 1983,
Popular Merchandise, Inc. became known as J.Crew, Inc. The company attempted,
but failed to sell the Popular Club Plan brand.[6] Also in 1989, J.Crew opened
its first retail store, in South Street Seaport in downtown Manhattan.
J.Crew
Group was owned by the Cinader family for most of its existence, but in October
1997 investment firm Texas Pacific Group Inc. purchased a majority stake. By
the year 2000, Texas Pacific held an approximate 62 percent stake, a group of
J.Crew managers held about 10 percent, and Emily Cinader Woods, the chairman of
J.Crew, along with her father, Arthur Cinader, held most of the remainder. The
brand Clifford & Wills was sold to Spiegel. in 2000 with the intent to
boost sales. In 2004, J.Crew bought the rights to the brand Madewell, a defunct
workwear manufacturer founded in 1937, and used the name from 2006 onwards as
"a modern-day interpretation", targeted at younger women than their
main brand.
Going
public and then private again
In 2006,
the company held an IPO, raising $376 million by selling new shares equal to
33% of expanded capital. However, in 2011, TPG Capital LP and Leonard Green
& Partners LP took J.Crew private again in a $3 billion leveraged buyout.
On November 23, 2010, the company had agreed to be taken private in a $3
billion deal led by management with the backing of TPG Capital and Leonard
Green & Partners, two large private equity firms. The announcement of the
offer from two investment firms—including one that used to own J.Crew—came as
the retailer reported that its third-quarter net income fell by 14 percent due
to weak women's clothing sales. The company also lowered its guidance for the
2010 year. Under the deal as proposed, J.Crew shareholders would receive $43.50
per share in cash, representing a 16 percent premium to the stock's closing
price the prior day of $37.65. CEO Mickey Drexler, the former Gap Inc. chief
credited with turning J.Crew around since coming aboard in 2003, remained in
that role and retained a "significant" stake in the company (as of
September 2010, he holds 5.4% of outstanding shares).
Shortly
after the announcement of the deal, some in the business community criticized
the terms of the deal involving the company's CEO and a majority shareholder.
As a result, the "go-shop" period was extended shortly after the
initial announcement.In addition, several investigations relating to potential
shareholder actions against the company were announced.[19] After the deal, TPG
and Leonard Green borrowed more to help finance dividends totaled $787 million
to them.
Recent
In June
2015, The New York Times reported that J.Crew's women's division was undergoing
a slump because of the company's failure to react to two market trends: cheap
"fast fashion" and "athleisure" items. In 2016, J.Crew partnered
with Nordstrom to begin selling their products in stores and online. In
December 2016, the company faced litigation after it moved its intellectual
property "out of the reach of lenders."
In April
2017, the company cut 250 jobs, largely from its headquarters. The company also
underwent several management changes, and long-term creative director Jenna
Lyons left the company in April. The brand's longtime head of menswear, Frank
Muytjens, left the company that month as well, and in June 2017, the company's
CEO, Mickey Drexler, announced that he would later be stepping down as CEO role
after 14 years with the company. Drexler announced he would stay on as chairman
and still own 10% of the company. On June 12, 2017, J.Crew Group Inc. announced
it had "made an offer to some of its bondholders to push back its most
pressing debt obligation—about $567 million due in May 2019—and amend its term
loan." At the time, J.Crew Group had around $2 billion in debt. Also in
2017, Drexler approached Amazon Inc about selling J.Crew to the tech giant.
In the
summer of 2017, the company avoided a bankruptcy filing by having bondholders
do a debt swap tapping into its brand name value. The majority of the
bondholders agreed to the deal, with several others failing to stop the deal
with a lawsuit. The deal lowered the company's debt.
In
September 2018, J.Crew began selling its standalone "J.Crew
Mercantile" brand on Amazon.
On February
16, 2018, J.Crew hired Adam Brotman, a long-time Starbucks executive, as
president and chief experience officer. Brotman's first major impact was
launching "J.Crew Rewards", the company's first reward program
independent of the company's credit card. The rewards program offers free
shipping and $5 back for each $200 spent.
In November
2018, J.Crew announced its CEO, James Brett, would step down and be replaced by
an office of the CEO consisting of four senior executives from J.Crew. Brett
took up the position in June 2017. The company released a press release stating
Brett's departure was a "mutual agreement" between Brett and the
company's board of directors. Brett will be replaced by Michael Nicholson
(president and COO), Adam Brotman (president and chief experience officer),
Lynda Markoe (chief administrative officer), and Libby Wadle, president of
Madewell Brand. The new office of the CEO will be responsible for managing
J.Crew's operations as the board establishes a permanent management structure.
On November 29, J.Crew announced the dissolution of their Nevereven,
Mercantile, and J.Crew Home sub-brands.
On April
11, 2019, J.Crew announced that president and COO, Michael Nicholson, will
retain the title of interim CEO, along with the subsequent announcement of
Brotman's departure.
J.Crew
reported a net income of $1.5 million in the fourth quarter of 2019, up from a
net loss of $74.4 million in quarter four of 2018.
On January
28, 2020, the retailer announced that Jan Singer will assume title of CEO.
Singer was previously CEO of Victoria's Secret, Spanx and was an executive at
Nike.[42] She will replace Nicholson who will assume his previous position.
On May 4,
2020, J.Crew filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection as a result of the
COVID-19 pandemic, although the company had amassed enormous debt even before
the outbreak.
Chinos
Holdings, Inc. and 17 affiliated debtors filed Chapter 11 bankruptcy in the
United States District Court for the Eastern District of Virginia. The Debtors
have requested joint administration of the cases under Case No. 20-32181.
In
September 2020, J Crew permanently closed all six of its UK stores after its
parent group emerged from Chapter 11 bankruptcy following an approval plan to
cut its debts.
In November
2020, J.Crew appointed new Chief Executive Officer. Libby Wadle replaced Jan
Singer who had been a CEO for less than a year.
Retail
stores
The company
operates 506 retail stores, including 203 J.Crew stores, 129 Madewell stores,
and 174 J.Crew Factory (including 42 J.Crew Mercantile) outlet locations, as
reported in 2018. The company also operates internationally in Canada, France,
the UK, and Hong Kong. Additionally, the company has 76 locations in Japan,
which are operated under license by ITOCHU Corporation.
In March
1989, the first J.Crew retail outlet opened in the South Street Seaport in
Manhattan, and the company planned to open 45 more stores. Five months after
the opening of its first store, J.Crew added two new catalog lines:
"Classics" and "Collections." "Collections" used
more complicated designs and finer fabrics to create dressier and more expensive
items, while "Classics" featured clothes that could be worn both to
work and for leisure activities.[citation needed] In the fall of 1989, J.Crew
opened three new stores in Chestnut Hill, Massachusetts; San Francisco,
California; and Costa Mesa, California, all locations with strong catalog
sales. By the end of the year, retail sales nearly hit $10 million. Despite
1989, revenues that year were estimated at $320 million, J.Crew suffered a
setback when its agreement to sell its Popular Club unit collapsed at the end
that year. In addition, rumors circulated that the company's Clifford &
Wills low-priced women's apparel catalog was doing poorly.
J.Crew saw
revenues reach $400 million in 1990 but reported that its four existing stores
had not yet started producing enough profits to cover their overheads. The next
phase of store openings included outlets in Philadelphia, Cambridge, and
Portland. The company scaled back its plans for opening retail stores from 45
stores to 30 or 35.[citation needed] In early 1991 the company hired a director
of new marketing development and began efforts to expand their sales into
Canada. In April 1991, J.Crew mailed 75,000 J.Crew catalogs and 60,000 Clifford
& Wills catalogs to potential customers in the province of Ontario.
Response rates to this effort were slightly lower than in the United States,
but each order, on average, was higher.[citation needed] In 1992, J.Crew
intensified its push into international markets by hiring a new vice-president
for international development. The company already mailed hundreds of catalogs
to customers in Japan and Europe, most of whom had become acquainted with
J.Crew while traveling or living in the United States.
J.Crew in
Markville Shopping Centre (now closed)
In 2011,
J.Crew opened its first international store in the Yorkdale Shopping Centre in
Toronto.[50] In 2012, J.Crew announced four new Canadian locations: Edmonton in
West Edmonton Mall, Vancouver on Robson Street, and Toronto in Fairview Mall
(now closed) and the Toronto Eaton Centre. All locations will carry women's and
men's collections. Along with 5 new stores, although some of these stores have
been closed recently. J.Crew announced to opening of two new factory stores in
Canada, with one in Vaughan Mills and the other in Edmonton (The second J.Crew
in Alberta) Continuing with its expansion in the Greater Toronto Area, J.Crew
opened at Markville Shopping Centre in 2013 (and now closed). In early 2014,
J.Crew unveiled its new flagship location in Yorkville, Toronto.
In an
interview with the Financial Times in 2011, CEO of J.Crew Mickey Drexler said
that J.Crew would be expanding to the U.K. with their flagship store being on
London's Regent Street. He indicated that the company would be following up
their recent expansion into Canada and Canadian e-commerce with a physical
store in England, most likely followed by e-commerce elsewhere, such as France
and Germany. Although a few locations were reviewed for the London store,
including Covent Garden and the East End, the ultimate decision was to open on
Regent Street.
In early
2014, J.Crew announced plans to open brick-and-mortar locations in Asia – to be
spearheaded by two establishments in Hong Kong. A women's store is slated to
open in the International Finance Centre, while a men's shop is in the works
for On Lan Street. Both opened for business in May 2014.
From 2016
to 2018, J.Crew Group has closed 96 J.Crew and J.Crew Factory retail locations.
On March 2,
2020, J.Crew announced that it would pause the proposed Madewell IPO that was
intended to be initiated on March 2. The company is considering a possible
separation of J.Crew and Madewell into two separate companies.
Marketing
Historically,
each year the company issued 24 editions of the J.Crew catalog, distributing
more than 80 million copies. Beginning in 2017, the catalog began being
released with fewer pages and fewer issues per year.
J.Crew has
been criticized for labeling its new super-small jeans as "size
000"., and for advertising them as "toothpick jeans". Critics
have said the labeling promotes vanity, a practice known as vanity sizing. The
"size 000" is smaller than a size zero and has three zeros, implying
that it is two sizes smaller than the smallest normal size. This has caused
people to question whether negative sizes will be available in the future, and
if the method of labeling should be changed.
In early
2011, J.Crew was under fire by conservative media outlets for an advertisement
featuring its creative director and president, Jenna Lyons, painting her son's
toenails pink. Beneath the picture was a quote that read, "Lucky for me I
ended up with a boy whose favorite color is pink." Some people were of the
opinion that J.Crew was challenging traditional gender identity roles, although
author Jo B. Paoletti said that it was "no big deal".
Monday 9 September 2024
The Laco B-Uhr – A Flieger Watch Review
There are
some watch designs that not only stand the test of time, but in the case of
war, also transcend their original context to become a classic. Such a watch,
the B-Uhr, the offspring of Germany and Switzerland’s leading watchmakers, has
a noted history of design and production, but was employed for an infamous
cause. The B-Uhren watches guided German bombers in their terrible campaigns of
World War II with dropped bombs whistling through air to end in devastating
consequence. The B-Uhr remains a formidable watch.
In 1935,
Adolf Hitler announced his plans to reconstitute Germany’s Air Force and
officially created the Luftwaffe. Germany had been building its aviation
forces, decidedly military in purpose and in violation of WWI’s Versailles
Treaty, but this buildup had proceeded ostensibly for civilian purposes. With
his power consolidated, Hitler shrugged off all pretense and announced
Germany’s resumption of military procurement. Prior to 1935, the Heinkel He 111
bomber supposedly existed as a transport plane just as the National Socialist
Party supposedly sought to establish peace and prosperity. Though few
(including watchmakers) knew it at the time, Germany was preparing for war.
Schematic-WFThe
RLM (Reichs-Luftfahrtministerium), responsible for aircraft development, also
sought a commensurate time piece for its bomber navigators. The 1935 conceptual
designs first specified an hour angle indication like the Lindbergh watch (see
here), but this specification was dropped, and standard criteria emerged,
making the B-Uhr instantly recognizable.
These
watches were big. 55mm big. The size accommodated large hand-wound movements
typically used in pocket watches, but the B-Uhr was always to be a watch for
the wrist. Each one used a Breguet balance spring. Inside, the movement was
surrounded by an iron core, making the B-Uhr anti-magnetic – a must for
aviation. To correct for time discrepancies, the movements were capable of
stopping the central seconds hand by pulling the crown, or hacking, and the
oversized diamond or onion crown could be operated with gloves on the hand. A
very long, double-riveted leather strap, long enough to go over the leather
flight jacket, held the B-Uhr in place.
The large
size made them unambiguously legible and their black dials with white Arabic
numerals further aided the task of precise reading. The flame-blued sword hands
were covered in luminous material as was the distinguishing upwards-orientation
triangle or arrow at the twelve o’clock position, accompanied by two dots on
the Type A models. The initial Type A model had only an outer chapter ring, but
the later type B (starting in 1941) had an outer ring for minutes/seconds and
an inner ring for hours. Each case had FL23883 engraved on the left side. FL
designated flieger, and 23 identified the watch as a navigation watch. The
snap-off case back had the following identifying information on its inside:
type (Bauart), production number (Gerät-Nr.), movement (Werk-Bez.), order
number (Anforderz), and manufacturer (Hersteller). The RLM and its partner
watch manufacturers produced a novel design, which would attain cult status.
B-Uhren is
an abbreviation for Beobachtungs-uhren, literally Observation watches. B-Uhr is
singular, and B-Uhren is plural. The B-Uhren were property of the Luftwaffe,
not the navigators. The navigator was issued his watch before flight, and then
returned the watch after completing the mission. Navigators received a signal
beep from the airbase, which in turn set its chronometer to the standard time
of the German Naval Observatory (Deutsche Seewarte), and if the navigator’s
time was off, the hacking mechanism allowed for adjustment. An accurate watch
was necessary for navigation, so all the B-Uhren watches were regulated and
tested to the highest chronometer standards of the Deutsche Seewarte in
Hamburg. Bomber navigators peered over the navigation table, their B-Uhren at
the ready, and plotted course, copied astronomical fixes and noted events on
the map. The B-Uhr was a consummate navigational aid.
Five
manufacturers – four German and one Swiss – supplied the B-Uhren. In Germany,
A. Lange & Söhne, Wempe, Lacher & Company/Durowe (Laco), and Walter
Storz (Stowa) produced the watch. Wempe and Stowa used Swiss movements; Wempe
settled on the Thommen cal. 31, and Stowa used the Unitas cal. 2812. Lange used
its big cal. 48 and then its cal. 48.1, and Laco used its (Durowe) cal. 5 – the
only two companies to use in-house German movements. When Wempe purchased the
Chronometerwerk in Hamburg in 1938, it gained a significant increase in
production capacity, and to assist the limited production faced by Lange and
Laco, Wempe assembled watches for them. To meet demand, Lange also sent
ébauches and cases to a variety of other manufacturers for assembly and
regulation. In smaller numbers, the Swiss International Watch Company IWC who
supplied watches to both Axis and Allied forces, manufactured the B-Uhr (cal.
52T S.C.) for the Luftwaffe. These five companies were the only ones to make
the B-Uhr.
Today, the
available Lange or Wempe B-Uhren are vintage watches from the war, and if you
can find one, they come with hefty price tags. IWC’s Big Pilot watch is an
evolution from the B-Uhr, having its predecessor’s DNA, but sporting an adapted
design. This is a watch made for aviation, and as such, retains an
anti-magnetic feature – the only current watch to do so. Unlike its no-frills
B-Uhr predecessor, the Big Pilot elevates the navigational concept to a higher
echelon of quality and function, providing a luxury timepiece (see here).
Stowa, now
owned by watchmaker Jörg Schauer, offers a nice homage to the B-Uhr in a
dressier version (see here). The case is polished, the movement decorated,
visible through a transparent case back, and the 40mm size is the smallest of
this group. They also offer a date window option. Stowa makes a fine watch, but
be prepared to wait for its arrival – demand far exceeds production.
Laco offers
a wide range of movement choices, providing a greater range of affordability,
but its watches featuring ETA and hand winding movements are the watches of
note. In these, Laco produces what might be termed a reproduction, having
carefully recreated the design of the original watch down to the smallest
detail, from the dial design to the FL23883 engraved on the case’s side to the
inner case back information ingeniously moved to the outside. These Laco
watches measure 42mm and 45mm (see here). Both Stowa and Laco offer flame blued
hands, sapphire crystal, riveted leather straps, superb luminosity and Type A
and B models. Of the original manufacturers, IWC, Stowa and Laco each offer a
contemporary B-Uhr choice.
Sunday 8 September 2024
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