Kirsten's Marriage Made In Vintage Heaven
23 May 2014
Lauren Milligan /
VOGUE / http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2014/05/23/two-faces-of-january-costume-designer---steven-noble-kirsten-dunst
THEY say diamonds are a girl's best friend, but for an
actress trying to get into a role, her best friend on set is often the costume
designer. Kirsten Dunst was paired with Stephen Noble (responsible for the
costumes in everything from Wuthering Heights to Trainspotting) for new movie
The Two Faces of January - set predominantly in Greece in 1962 - and it was a
marriage made in vintage heaven.
"It was a joy to work with all three actors, but I
really bonded especially well with Kirsten in our first costume fitting at
Elstree Studios," Noble told us. "I called in vintage clothes from
around the world and made the fitting room look like a vintage Aladdin's cave,
and we spent many hours trying on shapes and silhouettes and choosing fabrics.
Most actors do have an input as well as the director as to how they see their
character and they develop this over the prep time, and this of course includes
discussions with me about what they think their character would and wouldn't
wear."
"Stephen is meticulous, but it's also very
effortless," Dunst said. "He's very good at making it not look
costumey. It's a marriage between the costume designer and the actor getting it
right together, because you know things about your body that they might not
know right away, or colours that might look better. I love doing period films,
I really do. It's just so much prettier! Especially in this movie, I feel like
the wardrobe helped shape the character. I had this little wiggle because of
the skirts."
The film's costumes - worn by the three leads: Dunst, Viggo
Mortensen and Oscar Issac, as well as newcomer Daisy Bevan - feel authentic
without in any way pulling focus, creating a backdrop to a film that doesn't
just look like it's set in 1962, but is set in 1962: a feat that was not as
effortless as it appears.
"I looked at films like La Dolce Vita, Plein Soleil,
The Roman Spring of Mrs Stone, A Bout de Souffle and many other iconic films of
the decade," Noble said. "Also, original ciné films of tourists on
holiday and original fashion magazines of the era such as Vogue. Jean Seberg
and Alain Delon were an inspiration. The designers I took inspiration from were
Dior, Chanel, Nina Ricci, Lanvin, Pucci to name but a few. The clothes for the
three main characters were all bespoke and the remaining 3,000 cast were a
mixture of bespoke and vintage - either bought or hired from costume houses. A
selection also came from my own personal studio collection."
Flea markets,
costume houses and custom made designs were used to dress the cast of The Two
Faces of January… with a helping hand from Chanel.
By MARIE C
JUNE 19, 2014 / http://www.cinemazzi.com/the-two-faces-of-january-costume-designer-steven-noble-talks-60s-fashion/
It is difficult to imagine a more glamorous
era in Greece
than the swinging sixties. Aristotle Onassis cruising the Athenian Riviera on
his yacht, Jackie Kennedy by his side. Glitterati like Brigitte Bardot and
Grace Kelly holidaying on the island
of Mykonos . Directors
making movies like 1964′s Zorba the Greek starring Anthony Quinn. Greece had it
all.
“It was a very bohemian time,” says costume
designer Steven Noble, who worked with director Hossein Amini on
Mediterranean-filmed drama The Two Faces of January. “You sort of had the
beginning of the hippies travelling as well, there was so much diversity going
on. It was such an exciting period.”
It is amidst this golden age of travel that
The Two Faces of January kicks off, atop the Acropolis no less. It is 1962, and
Chester (Viggo Mortensen) and Collette (Kirsten
Dunst) are a sophisticated, stylish American couple touring Europe
for the summer.
Alas, all
is not as it seems. A chance encounter with a young American tour guide in Athens called Rydal
(played by Inside Llewyn Davis’ Oscar Isaac) will set in motion a tragic course
of events. What follows is a slow but superb suspense thriller.
If it
sounds a couple of degrees away from The Talented Mr Ripley, you’re on the
right track. Both films are based on novels by American author Patricia
Highsmith, whose first book was adapted into Alfred Hitchcock, no less, for
Strangers on a Train in 1951.
As we’ve
come to expect from Highsmith adaptations, costumes and art direction play an
important role in the storytelling; here, it’s once again a wonderfully
understated take on sixties elegance. Did Noble ever feel intimidated about
following in the fashion footsteps of those revered films?
“I think
that would have terrified me if I thought that,” he laughs. “I never really
think that about any film I go into, you just try and do the best job you can,
within the boundaries of what you’re allowed to be doing. I was almost left to
do what I wanted.”
To that
end, Noble absorbed himself “in all the films of that genre, from the late 50s
to early mid 60s”, re-acquainting himself with European classics like La Dolce
Vita by Federico Fellini, Plein Soleil (France’s 1960 crack at adapting The
Talented Mr Ripley), The Roman Spring of Mrs Stone (the 1961 version starring
Vivien Leigh and Warren Beatty) and Jean-Luc Godard’s A Bout de Souffle.
Noble
estimates that of the 3000 outfits used in the film, around 80 per cent were
vintage, sourced mainly from secondhand shops, flea markets and costume houses
like Angels and Movietone in London .
However, having to dress up to 300 extras in the background sometimes
necessitated looking further afield – especially since Noble and his team were
meticulous in their attention to detail.
As
Mortensen notes, “a lot of times, even in big movies, people in the deep
background might not always be dressed appropriately in terms of the quality of
the costume or the period. Or their wigs will be kind of crooked. There’s just
not as much care taken. With this movie, every single person in the background
or that we walk past, whether it was in Greece or the Grand Bazaar, looked
right. It makes you feel like you’re there.”
“I like to
visit the costume houses where we’re actually filming,” admits Noble. “If we
were filming in Istanbul ,
it would only be right to source some of the costumes from there for more of an
authentic look. So there were bits and pieces from costume houses in Turkey and Greece too. And then also, luckily,
you go ahead of time before you start filming and scour all the local flea
markets and vintage shops and pick up some pieces as well to mix in. It was a
very eclectic amalgamation of things from everywhere, all around the world.”
For Rydal,
Noble dressed Isaac in as many Greek labels from the period as he could find,
to reflect someone who had been living in Athens
for two years.
Still,
director Hossein Amini and Noble were both keen that The Two Faces Of January
never feel like a stuffy period piece.
“Obviously
we wanted the period to come through…to have the essence of 1962,” says Noble. “But we
also wanted to make it contemporary so it would look fresh and more exciting
rather than some old foisty costume drama.”
As such,
while Dunst’s smart daywear is predominantly bespoke costuming, designed using
digital reprints of original fabrics, her accessories (e.g. hats and gloves)
are minimal for a woman of her standing – Noble’s contemporary nod.
It is this
attention to detail through a contemporary costume lens that really carries the
entire film. It is no accident, for example, that in the opening scene Chester ’s cream linen
suit and Colette’s pale lemon dress complement the cool marble of the Parthenon
steps.
“It just
felt right they shouldn’t pop from their surroundings,” says Noble. “A normal
design you’d think, let’s try to put them in a completely different colour to
what the background was. But (considering) what colour the stone was, what the
light was like… it felt so right to keep it in that palette.”
Indeed,
that one cream linen suit of Chester ’s
is practically a character of its own, requiring a lot of “metamorphic” changes
from Noble to get it just so.
“I slightly
backdated it to start off with, and gave it a half belt, 40s/50s silhouette and
slightly bigger shoulder and slightly wider trouser,” says Noble. “And once I’d
toiled it and seen it, it felt completely wrong. This was a modern man from New York , so we decided
he would visit his tailor with his fabric and his pattern and have it made up
in different fabrics.”
Of course,
it is Colette who steals the show with her fabulous slimline wardrobe. Gone are
the big petticoats of the 50s and in their place hang slimmer hemlines just
below the knee.
“We chatted
on the phone to see what colours we liked, I called in lots of original
garments and fabrics from all over the world and made it an Aladdin’s Cave, a
vintage emporium, and we spent a couple of days trying different silhouettes on
and taking it from there,” says Noble. “We had a really good laugh, it was
really good fun.”
All of
Kirsten’s accessories were also based on original designs – including the
stunning pearls Colette wears out for dinner, which were loaned by Chanel.
(Luckily, says Noble, Chanel had just launched a classic collection based on
late 20s, early 30s designs.)
“I always
try and read the novel (of the adaptation),” says Noble, who has designed or
assisted on previous book adaptations such as Wuthering Heights, Never Let Me
Go, The Beach and Bridget Jones Diary. “There’s always something in the book,
even if it’s just one line, that can take you on a whole journey.”
Such as
those infamous “enormous panties” Bridget Jones wears in the original film??
“Well yes,
those were clearly written in the book,” he says, chuckling, “those iconic
pants. That required a lot of sourcing of big pants. And trying on.”
Alas, he is
gone before I can find out which ones were eventually cast.
Costume Designer:
A costume designer is a person who designs costumes for a film or stage
production. The role of the costume designer is to create the characters and
balance the scenes with texture and color, etc.The costume designer works
alongside the director, scenic, lighting designer, sound designer, and other
creative personnel. The costume designer may also collaborate with hair
stylist, wig master, or makeup artist. In European theatre, the role is
different, as the theatre designer usually designs both costume and scenic
elements.
Read more at
http://www.comicbookmovie.com/fansites/robertgarlenoncmb/news/?a=95452#ymwJTCTrFALgzd6u.99
Steven Noble
Costume Designer
WORK
Film
Production Company Notes
GET SANTA
(2014) Scott
Free Productions Dir: Christopher
Smith
Prod: Liza Marshall
THEORY OF EVERYTHING
(2014) Working
Title Dir: James Marsh
Prod: Anthony McCarten, Tim Bevan, Lisa
Bruce, Eric Fellner
With Eddie Redmayne and Felicity Jones
POSH
(2013) Blueprint
Pictures / Film4 Dir: Lone Scherfig
Prod: Graham Broadbent, Pete Czernin
TWO FACES OF JANUARY
(2013) Working
Title Films Dir: Hossein Amini
Prod: Robyn Slovo
UNDER THE SKIN
(2013) Film4 Dir: Jonathan Glazer
Prod: Jim Wilson, Nick Welcher
With Scarlett Johanssen
* Official Selection: London Film Festival 2013
(2011) Ecosse
FIlms Dir: Andrea Arnold
Prod: Robert Bernstein, Kevin Loader
* Official Selection: Venice
Film Festival 2011, BFI London
Film Festival 2011
NEVER LET ME GO
(2011) DNA
Films / Fox Searchlight Dir:
Mark Romanek
Prod: Alex Garland & Allon Reich
TRIANGLE
(2009) Dan
Films Dir: Chris Smith
Prod: Jason Newark
SEVERANCE
(2006) Dan
Films Dir: Chris Smith
Prod: Jason Newark
LOOK AT ME I'M BEAUTIFUL
(2005) Paul
Weiland Films Dir: Paul Gay
Prod: Jason Kemp
AGENT CODY BANKS 2
(2004) MGM Dir:
Kevin Allen
24 HOUR PARTY PEOPLE
(2002) Revolution
Films Dir: Michael Winterbottom
TWO BACARDI AND COKES Contagious Films Dir: Paul Gay
BRIDGET JONES'S DIARY
(2001) Working
Title
(Assistant Costume Designer) Dir: Sharon Maguire
THE BEACH
(2000) Figment
Films
(Costume Supervisor) Dir: Danny Boyle
ROGUE TRADER
(1999) Rogue
Trader Productions
(Co-Costume Designer) Dir: James Dearden
I WANT YOU
(1998) Revolution
Films
(Costume Supervisor) Dir: Michael Winterbottom
DAD SAVAGE
(1998) Sweet
Child Films
(Assistant Costume Designer) Dir: Betsan Morris Evans
(1997) Figment
Films
(Assistant Costume Designer) Dir: Kevin Allen
TRAINSPOTTING
(1996) Figment
Films
(Assistant Costume Designer) Dir: Danny Boyle
THE LEADING MAN
(1996) J
and M Productions
(Costume Assistant) Dir: John Duigan
Television
Production Company Notes
AN APPROPRIATE ADULT
(2011) ITV Dir: Julian Jarrold
Prod: Lisa Gilchrist
BENIDORM
(2007) Tiger Aspect Dir:
Kevin Allen
Promos
Production Company Notes
KEANE - "THE LOVERS ARE LOSING"
MUSIC VIDEO
(2008) HLA Dir: John Hardwick
Commercials
Production Company Notes
LEXUS
(2014) Independent Dir. Gary Freedman
FOREVERMARK 'AS ONE'
(2014) Rattling
Stick Dir: Benjamin Millepied
SPECSAVERS
(2013) Hungryman Dir: Tim Bullock
SKY IRELAND
(2013) Hungryman Dir: Taika Waititi
IMPULSE
(2013) Iconoclast Dir: Gustav Johansson
MERCEDES
PREP
(2012) Stink Dir: Yann Demange
GO COMPARE
(2012) Moxie
Pictures Dir: Big Red Button
CARLSBERG
(2012) Academy Dir: Peter Cattaneo
(2012) Stink Dir:
Ivan Zacharias
DULUX
(2012) Waspface Dir:
Paul Gay
GUINNESS
(2011) Infinity Dir: Tom Hooper
GORDONS GIN
(2011) Hungry
Man Ltd Dir: Paul Gay
SUPERDRUG
(2011) Hungry
Man Ltd Dir: Paul Gay
SUBWAY
(2011) Hungry
Man Ltd Dir: James Haworth
(2010) Hungry
Man Dir: Paul Gay
PFISTER
(2010) Partizan Dir: Dominic Murphy
PIZZA HUT
(2010) Hungry
Man Dir: Paul Gay
THE TIMES
(2010) Hungry
Man Dir: Paul Gay
YAHOO
(2010) Hungry
Man Dir: Bryan Buckley
PIZZA HUT
(2010) Hungry
Man Dir: Paul Gay
E..D AWARENESS
(2010) Hungry
Man Dir: Paul Gay
COI - "FLU"
(2010) Hungry
Man Dir: Paul Gay
SAINSBURY'S
(2010) Hungry
Man Dir: Paul Gay
MCDONALDS
(2009) Hungry
Man Dir: Paul Gay
BACARDI
(2009) Rogue Dir: Sam Brown
ITV
(2009) MJZ Dir: Rupert Saunders
MCDONALDS
(2008) Rogue Dir: Nicholas Barker
BOOTS NO 7 - "KEELY" Hungry Man Dir:
Allen Couter
ROYAL BANK OF SCOTLAND Hungry Man Dir: Paul Gay
REVELS Hungry
Man Dir: Brendan Gibbons
PS3 - "SINGSTAR" Rogue Dir:
Ron Scalpello
BOOTS - "SCIENCE" Hungry Man Dir: Brian Buckley
CLARKS - "EXPRESSIONS" Hungry Man Dir: Paul Gay
MAX HEADROOM MJZ Dir: Rocky Morton
LYNX / AXE - "HORSES" Radical Media Dir:
Gary Gray
GAME SHOW MARATHON
- IDENTS Rogue Dir: Daniel Wolfe
GUARDIAN - "MUSICAL CHAIRS" Another Film Co. Dir: Nick Jones
TFL - "END CALL" Hungry Man Dir:
Paul Gay
MOCCONA - "CLINIC" Another Film Co. Dir: Nick Jones
BAUER - "IN THE KNOW" MJZ Dir:
Rocky Morton
RAC - "QUICK" Rogue Dir:
Nick Jones
MARS - "HANDS" Rogue Dir:
Nick Jones
COI - "NICE DAY" &
"LIVING" Hungry Man Dir: Paul Gay
RADIO TIMES - "GET YOURS" Partizan Dir:
Ornette Spenceley