Friday, 14 March 2014

Barker Black Shoes / 1880 / England . Derrick Miller / 2005 / USA

Barker Black Ltd from Shoemocracy on Vimeo.
Barker Black is a British luxury footwear brand specializing in bench-made shoes for men. The Barker Black line is a subset of the English Shoe company Barker, which was founded in 1880 by Arthur Black. Launched in 2005 by creative director, Derrick Miller, the Barker Black brand quickly gained the attention of the fashion media, appearing in the premiere issue of Men's Vogue in September 2005. Subsequent coverage in mens fashion magazines such as Details, Esquire, and GQ followed.
In 2007, Barker Black was chosen by GQ magazine as one of the best new designers in America.
The shoes are made in the classic English "Good Year Welted" construction and have a modern design feel while still classic. Many design elements of the shoes are updated takes on classic techniques, toe punching in the shape of the skull and crossbones logo and hand applied tacks to the waist of the shoe give them their unique character. The collection also includes men's accessories with a similar modern attitude.

Barker Black shoes are sold in its own boutiques in New York City and Los Angeles, as well in luxury department stores such as Bergdorf Goodman and Nieman Marcus. Its Elizabeth Street boutique in New York is listed on GQ's 100, the magazine's list of the best stores for men in America.

A collection inspired by the 17th Lancer Regiment
Barker Black's premiere collection is inspired by an ancient regiment of British guardsmen, the 17th Lancers. The Regiment's original logo, a skull and crossbones with a banner posting their motto "...or glory" implying 'Death or Glory'. Discovered in an ancient silk weaver's archive in Sudbury, England, adopted by Barker Black Ltd. the decommissioned regiment's motto captures the spirit energy and, sophistication of Barker Black, there is an unmistakable presence of the Lancers in every piece of the Collection

Nicknamed "Bingham's Dandies" because of their dress prowess; one imagines how the Lancers would dress themselves in today's world. The Barker Black collection's young, sleek, sophisticated design with a touch of arrogance conjures up images of the regiment's black and silver dress regalia. These principals are the cornerstones of Barker Black's introduction to the American luxury market, all in an attempt to dress the modern day lancer.

During the Siege of Sevastopol (which began in September) the 17th Lancers took part in the Battle of Balaklava on 25 October. During the battle, the regiment took part in a cavalry charge that became known as the Charge of the Light Brigade, which spawned much controversy and indeed a poem by Alfred, Lord Tennyson. The Russians captured redoubts on the Causeway Heights, which held some British artillery. The army commander, Lord Raglan, issued an order for the Light Brigade to attack there before the guns could be taken away by the Russians. The order was sent via Captain Louis Nolan to Lord Lucan, commander of the Cavalry Division. It is believed, however, that Nolan misinterpreted the order as an order to attack Russian artillery in the valley between the Fediukhine Heights and the Causeway Heights. It has been speculated[18] that Captain Nolan, an authority on cavalry tactics, actually directed Lucan toward the wrong guns in order to test his tactical theories, although this view has not found wide currency.
Lord Cardigan then ordered his Light Brigade to began the advance at a trot, with the 17th and 13th Light Dragoons leading the Brigade, heading into a concentration of Russian artillery, infantry and cavalry. The Light Brigade advanced to their objective and came under heavy artillery fire from all sides, which inflicted many casualties. The Brigade, upon nearing the enemy, then went into a full charge. The 17th Lancers, commanded by Captain William Morris, drove through the Russian artillery before smashing straight into the Russian cavalry and pushing them back. The Light Brigade were unable to consolidate their position, however, having insufficient forces (the Heavy Brigade had not advanced further into the valley) and had to withdraw to their starting positions, coming under artillery and musket fire and cavalry attack as they did so.

Despite the mistakes that culminated in unnecessary loss, the charge reasserted the renown of the British cavalry, to such an extent that Russian cavalry refused outright to confront them in battle for the duration of the war. The 17th Lancers suffered quite heavily. Of the 147 men of the 17th, just 38 were at the roll call the following morning. The Light Brigade as a whole suffered 118 men killed and 127 wounded out of a total of 673 men and 362 horses lost, effectively destroying the unit as a fighting force.

The remarkable history of Barker Black
Barker Black is the epitome of English refinement. Established in the village of Earls Barton in 1880 by Arthur Barker, the factory quickly became renowned for their craftsmen and fine workmanship. Specializing in the "Good Year Welted" construction, the shoes became a staple in the wardrobe of every self-respecting Englishman. After 125 years of producing quality bench made shoes in a factory christened by the Queen mum herself, Barker Black has been developed to embrace the storied past while forging ahead in design, details, and elegant sophistication.

Until now, these distinguished shoes, so revered in England, have primarily been available in the UK, with the launch of Barker Black, Barker is ready to prove itself in the worldwide luxury market.

A foundation of quality construction, craftsmanship and modern design is the launch pad for Barker Black. Barker Black shoes are created by a team of specialized craftsmen, many of whom have been working with the company over twenty years. Harnessing this expertise, quality and attention to detail, along with its contemporary design, is what makes Barker Black so special. These sleek and luxurious shoes, made from the finest Italian and French Calf, are left on the last for fifteen to thirty days, during this time the shoes are placed in a wire frame (affectionately referred to as the 'cage') and suspended from the rafters above the factory. This extensive time on the last allows the shoe to retain its beautiful shape. All Barker Black shoes are finished by hand, on select shoes the skull and crossbone logo is painstakingly tacked into the sole by hand. Raising the standards of excellence in design, materials and construction the Barker Black range will be on par with Northampton neighbors, however through its updated sensibility and modern aesthetic, Barker Black will stand on its own.

 A Modern Sensibility
Barker Black was founded as the modern alternative to Men's shoes and accessories. With their sleek design and time-tested construction, Barker Black shoes and accessories have a playful spirit but are appropriate in even the strictest workplace. The subtle details that make the wearer feel unique are so well incorporated into the design of the collection; they would be difficult for others to notice. Little touches like a crown cutout on a traditional penny loafer or the delicate broguing on the toe in the shape of a crowned skull and crossbones, the Barker Black logo, offer the finest in subversive sophistication.

Barker Black upholds the standards established by generations of renowned craftsmen but with modern styling that brings excitement back to dressing and provides a sophisticated alternative to trainers.

The shoe range is designed with a nod to the man who is required to dress for work and fit into the modern conventions of dress attire, but has a desire to assert his individuality without drawing unwanted attention. These details are where Barker Black sets itself apart, from toe broguing, slender waists, and bespoke sole tacking, the result is sleek and modern. These details give the Barker Black customer the confidence and individuality he is longing for with classic style, to be envied by the staunchest conservative. Every shoe is slightly unexpected, from a traditional loafer with a twist to designs best described at "Rock & Roll Chic". As young men take back formal dress, Barker Black couples old world artisanship with modern day elegance and attitude to cater to discerning men with a craving for something new.

 Ties, Pocketsquares & Braces
At Barker Black everything is designed with luxury, aesthetics and attitude in mind. The tie designs take inspiration from Royal crests to jailhouse tattoos, gentleman's ties to avante guarde designs with attitude. All three collections invoke the same sense of rebellion but are balanced with soft unexpected color, in a modern yet familiar and easy to wear palette of dusty pastels, a staple in the modern gentleman's wardrobe.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Good post....thanks for sharing.. very useful for me i will bookmark this for my future needs. Thanks.
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