At the
height of the Industrial Revolution, Sir Thomas Mason founded in Lancashire one
of the first factories to manufacture cotton shirt fabric. These fabrics were
used by London's West End tailors serving the aristocracy and the upper class,
before being exported throughout the British Empire and all over the world.
THE STORY
OF THOMAS MASON FABRICS
https://www.1701bespoke.com/notes/the-story-of-thomas-mason-fabrics
The finest
shirting fabrics 1701 carries are Thomas Mason fabrics. Thomas Mason is one of
the most well known names when it comes to shirts, but is not necessarily
explained as to why it’s great. It almost seems like in fashion you can put
someone’s name in front of a product and that gives you rights to mark up 10
times.
But Thomas
Mason is a different animal.
First off,
Thomas Mason does not make shirts; they make cotton fabric for shirts and have
been known since 1780 to produce the highest quality cotton. They are the
exclusive shirt supplier to the English royal family and was one of the first
cotton mills opened in England.
Today, they
are owned by an Italian company called Albini, but the story of Thomas Mason
starts in England just before the Industrial Revolution:
In 17th
Century England, nearly all garments were made of wool. In the middle of the
century, cheap cotton, known as calico, began to be imported into England. At
first, it was just a novelty, and nobody paid much attention to calico; the
lower classes wore it because it was easily available but the middle &
upper classes primarily paid no mind.
Then, the
East India Trading Company (EIC), the group responsible for importing the
majority of calico, underwent a great marketing effort to increase the demand
of cotton. They “donated” 325,000 pounds of calico over the course of about 20
years to select groups in the middle & upper class.
This
created a huge shift in the fashion market. The monopoly of the wool market was
being threatened and in response, the wool industries then gathered together to
lobby the government to outlaw the import of calico from India & Egypt.
In 1700,
England passed the version version of the Calico Act; banning the import of
dyed cotton fabrics into England. But that didn’t stop anyone; for the next 20
years, English citizens imported raw, un-dyed cotton and then dyed it in
England.
Finally in
1720, the “loophole” was closed, and all the use and sale of cotton was
outlawed. Meanwhile, the rest of the world continued to buy cotton, making it
an ever more popular, and cheaper, choice for making garments that could easily
be washed and dyed. English women were ripping down their drapes and making
dresses out of them and black markets for cotton opened up in England,
relegating cotton to only the dedicated fashionistas and counter-culture types.
But by
1774, England’s textile companies acquiesced to the English market’s demand and
lobbied the England to repeal the Calico Act. This flooded England with new and
cheap cottons.
Only a
couple decades later would Thomas Mason open up, taking advantage of the latest
technology: the steam engine.
The
Industrial revolution really started at the end of the 18th Century and the
textile industry was one of the first industries to see its immediate effects.
Two inventors named Matthew Boulton & James Watt created a steam engine,
that was instantly embraced by industry, and quickly applied to the textiles.
Previously,
fabric mills were powered either by water or by donkey, so when the Boulton
& Watt steam engine was invented, it was able to weave cotton ten times
faster, which vastly improved production to a point where the mills in England
couldn’t obtain raw materials fast enough.
Thomas
Mason opened his mill at just the perfect time; the repeal of the Calico Act
& the Industrial Revolution provided Mason the ability to obtain new, cheap
& durable materials coupled with the technology to produce, relatively,
enormous quantities of fabric.
Mason
gained notoriety in Britain not only because of his efficient methods, but
because of the high-quality of his fabrics. This reputation made Thomas Mason
fabrics the supplier for fine shirting fabrics for Britain’s aristocracy and
wealthy.
The Thomas
Mason company continued to grow throughout the 19th Century and in the
beginning of the 20th Century, at Prince Edward’s request, Thomas Mason became
the exclusive supplier for Turnbull & Asser, the official shirtmakers for
royal family.
In 1992,
Thomas Mason was acquired by the Alibini Group, a family owned business with
five generations of owners. Albini moved the Thomas Mason operations to
Bergamo, Italy, as well as over 700 fabric books that make up the Thomas Mason
archives, containing a sample of nearly every shirting fabric Thomas Mason has
produced for over 200 years.
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