Coronation fashion sprang few surprises – but all
eyes were on Penny Mordaunt
The invitation had suggested a break with tradition,
but the royal family opted to play it safe
Chloe Mac
Donnell
@tweetchloe
Sat 6 May
2023 18.18 BST
When the
official Coronation invitation was unveiled last month featuring a bee,
bluebells and a Green Man, an ancient mythological figure symbolising rebirth,
it hinted that the new monarch’s investiture was perhaps, going to break away
from tradition.
Further
hints came via the meat-free Coronation quiche recipe, news that the anointing
oil was set to be vegan and Charles’s decision to ditch the customary silk
stockings and breeches. The Princess of Wales was even rumoured to be swapping
a tiara for a flower crown.
It wasn’t
until Saturday morning, when Charles and Camilla set off down the Mall in their
spectacular carriage, Camilla’s diamond necklace glinting through the gilded
windows, that it became clear the jolly Green Man was purely symbolism, the
idea of a “modern monarchy” was still a bona fide oxymoron.
With
floor-sweeping robes, swan-plumed hats, a Stone of Destiny and a costume change
behind a pop-up screen, for onlookers it felt like a melting pot of Harry
Potter, the Met Gala and an influencer at fashion week.
Instead of
breaking from tradition and wearing wild flowers in her hair, Kate chose the
middle ground approach. Her headpiece, made with silver bullion, crystal and
silver thread-work, was fashioned in a wreath shape. The design was a collaboration
between the British milliner Jess Collett and Sarah Burton, the creative
director of Alexander McQueen who also designed Kate’s ivory dress, which sat
beneath her blue silk mantle.
There was
further symbolism in the dress itself with embroidery detailing featuring rose,
thistle, daffodil and shamrock motifs representing the four nations. These were
the same flowers that had appeared on the royal’s wedding dress in 2011, also
designed by Sarah Burton.
The
eight-year-old Princess Charlotte wore a simplified version of the same dress
and headpiece, while her older brother George was in a crimson frog webbed
trimmed coat studiously carrying the train of his grandfather’s mantle. Prince
Harry chose a dark grey morning suit, in lieu of a military uniform; his
military medals were pinned to his lapel.
Guests
seemed keen to embrace Britain’s unofficial dress code for summer events –
florals. Emma Thompson was pictured in a rose-printed red silk coat while Lady
Louise, the eldest daughter of Prince Edward chose a pale blue iris-printed
dress from the British brand Suzannah London.
It wasn’t
just the king’s guards in extravagant headgear either. Westminster Abbey was
peppered with everything from neat pillbox hats to netted fascinators. Queen
Letizia of Spain’s wide brimmed hat with neon pink veil detailing, worn at a
jaunty angle was quickly turned into “lampshade” memes.
The real unexpected
star of the day was Penny Mordaunt. As the leader of the House of Commons, she
was required to carry the 17th-Century Sword of State, showcasing some serious
core control by holding it upright away from her body for the entire ceremony.
The first
woman to carry out the role, she wore an outfit that broke with tradition too.
Instead of the black and gold attire worn by the Marquess of Salisbury at the
late Queen’s Coronation in 1953, Mordaunt told Politico she wanted “to come up
with something that is modern and will give a firm nod to the heritage.”
She
commissioned a teal-coloured dress from the London based label Safiyaa and a
hat from the milliner Jane Taylor. Both featured a fern motif embroidered by
the atelier Hand & Lock who worked overtime to change all the cyphers on
the uniforms in the lead up to the coronation too.
Mordaunt’s
substitution felt radical, especially compared with Camilla, who commissioned
the British couturier Bruce Oldfield to design a gown made from silk woven in
Suffolk. Oldfield has a history of designing for the royal family, working
closely with Diana, Princess of Wales in the 1980s.
Camilla’s
dress featured bracelet-length sleeves with each cuff embroidered with the
floral emblems of the four nations while tiny threaded motifs of the British
countryside including daisies, forget-me-nots and celandine appeared on the
body of the dress.
There was
also plenty of floral symbolism to be seen on Charles’s garments. The Pallium
Regale mantle, originally made for the coronation of George IV in 1821 features
a pattern of coloured roses, thistles and shamrock, while the singular white coronation
glove, presented to George VI in 1937 is decorated with oak leaves and acorns.
Heading
back to Buckingham Palace, amid all the pomp Charles sat looking somewhat glum
as he waved to his subjects. Camilla, wearing the Queen Mary crown reset with
diamonds from Queen Elizabeth II’s personal jewellery collection, was the only
one to flash a smile.
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