The
vice-president nominee’s workwear is a central conversation on the election
trail. It’s not the first time fashion has become political
Ellie Violet
Bramley
Thu 29 Aug
2024 12.00 EDT
https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/article/2024/aug/29/can-a-wardrobe-win-the-white-house
Let’s play
the word association game. What do you think of when you read the following?
Plaid. Workwear. Camo. If it isn’t words such as practical, hardwearing,
hunting or fishing then you’ve been drinking from fashion’s well for too long.
Because while in recent years luxury labels have turned all of the above into
catwalk fodder, these are the clothes equivalents of agriculture, land, the
great outdoors.
They also
just happen to be the cornerstones of vice-president nominee Tim Walz’s style.
He wore an LL Bean barn jacket while on a farm last November, and was spotted
in a camouflage cap after he got the call from Kamala Harris asking him to be
her running buddy. His wardrobe is all Carhartt, fleeces, jeans, Red Wing boots
and worn-in T-shirts.
Because,
offstage and off-duty, away from the national stage and at home in Minnesota,
Tim Walz is “a regular guy”. Or, a regular Nebraska-born former high school
football coach with a gun licence, a penchant for ice fishing and 24 years in
the National Guard under his well-worn leather belt, an extra hole teased into
it with a Swiss army knife.
Commentators
have been quick to define his style as possessing “a kind of down-home lack of
fuss” and his vibe as “a white guy who exudes midwestern dad energy”. He can
wear the kind of quote unquote normal clothes that many voters wear and not
look like he is trying to cosplay as a salt-of-the-earth kind of guy. He wears
patinated Carhartt with the ease of someone who has been wearing it for years.
He wears clothes to actually do the thing they were intended for, not to
weaponise whatever said thing is symbolic of – hunting clothes to hunt, for
instance, as opposed to hunting clothes on the campaign trail in a bid to
harness the optics of hunting. “Democrats want to foreground that he wears
these clothes not to appeal to a middle-class voter from middle America; he
wears them because he is a middle-class voter from middle America,” wrote
Washington Post fashion writer Rachel Tashjian in a recent column.
But most of
all, commentators – and the Democrats keen to translate workwear jackets into
“blue wall” votes – have been keen to flag the authenticity of his plaid and
boots. “You can tell those flannel shirts he wears don’t come from some
political consultant,” said former president Barack Obama recently. “They come
from his closet – and they have been through some stuff.” This kind of rural
sartorial “authenticity” isn’t the kind of thing you can buy. It just is. And,
realistically, sartorial authenticity to many male politicians is navy blue
suits and ties and not the hard hats and big boots they favour for site visits
and more masculine-coded events.
Others have
succeeded in signalling their own brand of authenticity – whatever that looks
like in their case – long before Walz was mentioned as a prospective ticket
mate. Bernie Sanders, for one. As Guardian columnist Jonathan Freedland said
back in 2020 of the Vermont scruffbag-millionaire: “A politician who does not
appear to have been styled by advisers … immediately conveys through their
dress that they are different – that they are their own person, that they
listen to their conscience rather than to spin doctors and handlers, that they
are people of principle and conviction and that, perhaps, they care too deeply
about serious issues to be bothered with such trivia as their personal
appearance.”
Many
politicians before have tried to style or spend their way out of appearing
elitist or out-of-touch. On that side of the Atlantic, there was Florida
governor Ron DeSantis who looked like an alligator out of water in fishing
shirts on the campaign trail or Texas governor Rick Perry wearing a too-stiff
barn jacket. On this side, any excuse to bring up William Hague on a log flume
in a baseball cap with “HAGUE” on it. And Rishi Sunak, who could no more hide
that he is a quarter-zip sweater kind of guy with a fortune of £650m than he
could make anyone believe that he had owned the enormous Timberland boots he
wore to speak to Border Force crews “for ages”. In truth, he couldn’t win: he
was also lambasted for wearing Prada loafers to a building site, which were far
more authentically him. It isn’t just a pitfall for rightwing politicians: see
former barrister Keir Starmer in military fatigues for one example.
There is
very much a double standard here. As Tashjian writes: “It’s funny to imagine a
political party foregrounding a woman’s down-to-earth wardrobe: we just love
the senator for wearing those Lululemon leggings. To be taken more seriously,
at this level of politics, a man dresses down and a woman dresses up.” It’s a
good point – in fact, maybe it is why Kamala Harris’s Converse seem to have
been taking a back seat.
There is
another layer to all of this, because how much any of Walz’s authentic workwear
will actually translate into rural votes is yet to be seen. But it certainly
feels like a stronger sartorial bid than most and one that may well do the
unthinkable, making politicians’ style something to aspire to rather than
deride, something that causes a spike in Carhartt or peak in plaid as opposed
to killing off a look, as Sunak did to Sambas. Are we about to see the Walz
effect? Only time will tell.
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