Sunday, 29 June 2025

Henley Royal Regatta 2025 - Tickets on Sale Now


Henley Royal Regatta 2025

Tuesday, 1 July - Sunday, 6 July

Tickets on Sale Now!

 

Henley Royal Regatta is undoubtedly the best-known regatta in the world, and a highlight of both the summer sporting calendar and the social season.

 

The Regatta attracts thousands of visitors over the week, and spectators are thrilled by over 400 races of an international standard, which can include Olympic rowers, as well as crews new to the event.


2025 Retail Collection

Thursday, 26 June 2025

The Bezos-Sánchez Wedding and the Triumph of Tacky




Opinion

Guest Essay

The Bezos-Sánchez Wedding and the Triumph of Tacky

 

June 25, 2025, 1:00 a.m. ET

By Amy Odell

Ms. Odell is the author of “Anna: The Biography.”

https://www.nytimes.com/2025/06/25/opinion/jeff-bezos-lauren-sanchez-wedding.html

 

Some of the world’s richest people are gathering for the wedding of Jeff Bezos, the world’s third-richest man, in one of the world’s most touristy cities, Venice, and it’s easy to ask: What happened to understatement and restraint? In the run-up to the wedding, Mr. Bezos was photographed by paparazzi on the deck of his yacht with his intended, Lauren Sánchez, both in their swimsuits, frolicking in foam like a couple of college kids on spring break. Meanwhile, missiles and bombs have been falling just a few time zones away,

 

Not so long ago, members of high society were fixated on trying to low-key their way out of the perils of income inequality. Minimalism and quiet luxury were in vogue. But in the wake of President Trump’s second election, it’s the luxe life at full volume. He gilded the White House, turning it into a Rococo Liberace lair. Swaggy and braggy have replaced stealth wealth. Flaunting it is in. For women, that means sequins, diamonds, tight silhouettes and big hair. TikTok’s latest star, Becca Bloom, has drawn millions of fans by regularly sharing videos of her lavish jewelry and Hermès shopping hauls. Even the bandage dress is trending again. The breast implant business just keeps getting bigger and is expected to reach $4.6 billion by 2030, up from nearly $3 billion in 2024.

 

For men, it means a hypermasculine look: muscles and slicked-back hair; tight, tailored suits with big Windsor knots.

 

And now there are the Bezos-Sánchez nuptials, the most internationally notable ruling-class wedding since the Ambani-Merchant union last year in India. It’s already drawn protesters determined to make Venice the city “that did not bend to oligarchs.” (The couple had to move their main reception to a new location to avoid activists who threatened to fill the canals with inflatable crocodiles.) Since news of Mr. Bezos and Ms. Sánchez’s relationship broke in a tabloid scandal in early 2019, Ms. Sánchez has become an object of public fascination, her every movement parsed by tabloids and gossipmongers. With this much attention, she’s become one of the most visible women on (or off, as it may be) the planet, and therefore a significant fashion influencer.

 

Her fiancé, who shed his nerdy image and baggy office clothes for a personal-trained body, tight polo shirts and aviators, has already been anointed an unlikely style icon. Like the MAGA bros who favor traditional suiting and clean-shaven faces, his athleisure emphasizes his power, not cutting-edge fashion sense.

 

Ms. Sánchez, too, dresses to emphasize her clout. She’s long preferred belts with noticeable-from-a-distance hardware, embellished dresses, stiletto heels, low-cut necklines, high-cut hemlines and big jewelry. Her engagement ring is thought to be in the vicinity of 30 carats and cost somewhere between $3 million and $5 million, but it was easily dwarfed by the diamond-encrusted choker she wore to a gala in Cannes recently, with a stone that looked to be the size of a bike reflector. There was nothing low-key about her recent flaunty Paris bachelorette party, which was attended by stars such as Kim Kardashian and Kris Jenner, and included a visit to the Hermès store with executives from the brand.

 

The luxury industry — which faces its first slowdown in 15 years, according to a recent study — has economic interest in embracing Ms. Sánchez, who represents the wealthy Very Important Clients who make up 2 percent of luxury customers and 40 percent of sales. “The customer driving global luxury is quite tacky in a lot of cases, and no one really admits it,” an anonymous fashion investor told The Cut for a 2024 article about this crucial group of shoppers. V.I.C.s are always looking for a reason to get decked out in their designer finest, social norms and sensitivities be damned, and Ms. Sánchez seems to embody the idea that if you’re rich enough, you may as well.

 

What has fascinated the public about Ms. Sánchez, like any number of women who personify a certain period, is how she puts herself together. Seemingly unafraid to flout sartorial norms, she attended a state dinner at the White House in 2024 wearing a gown with a sheer lace corseted bodice, causing People to wonder if the dress broke “White House protocol.” She later attended Mr. Trump’s inauguration with what looked like lingerie peeking out of her white blazer, leaving a Vogue headline to note that she “forgoes inauguration style codes.” She never conformed to the look of oversized minimalism popularized in the 2010s by the designer Phoebe Philo for Celine, still revered by elite crowds that live in places like Manhattan and Montecito, Calif., and fancy themselves practitioners of good taste.

 

Ms. Sánchez’s journey from the tabloids to the pages of Vogue, which did a splashy feature on her in its December 2023 issue, has fascinated and repelled onlookers, the same way Ms. Kardashian’s entree to the magazine — and therefore to the fashion world — did when she landed on its cover for the first time in April 2014, pegged to her marriage to Kanye West. Ms. Kardashian had been a tabloid star for many years, but until that point, Vogue hadn’t been featuring her much.

 

After the cover dropped, people threatened to cancel their subscriptions. But it was a provocation worth making, Vogue’s editor in chief, Anna Wintour, later said. “I was told that it was trashy, that it was beneath us, what was Vogue coming to?” she recalled. “We were trying to respond to what we saw — a couple being [an] undeniable force in our culture, and they were part of the conversation at that time.” The same could be said about Ms. Sánchez and Mr. Bezos now. Unsurprisingly, Vogue has reportedly been talking with the couple about an exclusive.

 

Ms. Sánchez recalls another unlikely Vogue subject: Ivana Trump. Ms. Wintour gave her a cover in 1990, shortly before her divorce from Mr. Trump, after worrying, as I reported in a biography of Ms. Wintour, that she was “too tacky.” Around the time the cover came out, Ms. Trump was criticized for “dressing like a Christmas tree.” The issue’s newsstand sales of 750,000 copies easily justified Ms. Wintour’s decision.

 

As much as those with more understated taste might turn up their noses at the crassness of the Bezos-Sánchez wedding’s display, tacky is very clearly carrying the day. Maybe hating on tacky oligarchs is itself just elitist. It’s doubtful anyone attending the wedding cares very much what those of us who weren’t invited think, anyway.

 

Amy Odell is the author of the Back Row newsletter and “Anna: The Biography” and a forthcoming biography of Gwyneth Paltrow.

Wednesday, 18 June 2025

DOWNTON ABBEY: THE GRAND FINALE - Official Teaser Trailer [HD] -



Downton Abbey: The Grand Finale is an upcoming historical drama film directed by Simon Curtis from a screenplay by Julian Fellowes. It is the sequel to Downton Abbey: A New Era (2022) and the third and final film in the Downton Abbey franchise. Many of the original franchise's cast members, who also appeared in the previous two films, will return. Paul Giamatti and Dominic West reprise their roles as Harold Levinson from the television series and Guy Dexter from the previous film, respectively, while Joely Richardson, Alessandro Nivola, Simon Russell Beale and Arty Froushan join the cast.

 

Imelda Staunton, who portrays Maud, stated in March 2024 that a third and final film in the Downton Abbey franchise was being planned, with the main cast set to return. Following the announcement of several cast members reprising their roles in May, filming took place that month and concluded in August. The official title was announced in March 2025. A teaser trailer was released in June 2025.

 

Downton Abbey: The Grand Finale is scheduled to be released by Focus Features on 12 September 2025.


Monday, 16 June 2025

Mohamed Al-Fayed, the monster of Harrods



The Monster of Harrods: Al-Fayed and the secret, shameful history of a British institution Hardcover – September 23, 2025

by Alison Kervin (Author)

 

‘Sensational new book’ – MAIL ON SUNDAY

 

‘Bombshell book’ – THE SUN

 

‘Tell-all book’ – MAIL ON SUNDAY

 

'Explosive new book' – DAILY MAIL

 

AN UNFLINCHING EXPOSÉ OF MOHAMED AL-FAYED'S 25-YEAR REIGN OF TERROR AT HARRODS

 

DECADES OF ABUSE.

 

DOZENS OF VICTIMS.

 

NO CONSEQUENCES.

 

To the public, he was the eccentric owner of one of the world’s great department stores. But behind closed doors, Al-Fayed ruled with cruelty, humiliation and unchecked abuse.

 

Why were his crimes ignored?

Why did those in power look the other way?

 

This explosive investigation lays bare the power, corruption and complicity at the heart of an iconic British institution.

 

Drawing on firsthand interviews with former staff, allies, executives and police officers, The Monster of Harrods exposes chilling accounts of misconduct, many revealed here for the first time. Through court records, testimonies and unpublished material, the book uncovers:

 

The irreparable damage to victims’ lives

The NDAs, threats and systemic failures that kept them silent

The staggering indifference of those who knew but did nothing

 

This isn’t just about one man’s abuse of power – it’s about the culture that enabled him. The Monster of Harrods presents damning new evidence, and asks urgent questions of the people and institutions who stood by.

 

Ultimately, this is a book about courage – the courage of the survivors who have stepped forward to reclaim their narratives from a man who tried to reduce them to objects. Their testimony stands as both an indictment of the past and a warning for the future.

 

Their bravery demands nothing less than our complete attention.

 

'The extraordinary courage of these survivors, who, despite everything, were willing to relive their trauma in hope of finally being heard, should not be underestimated. Many have waited decades for acknowledgement, carrying their wounds in silence while their abuser was celebrated.'


Saturday, 14 June 2025

Trooping the Colour 2025 | Sky News coverage / starts at 13:00 minutes.

REMEMBERING: Sleeping with the enemy by Hal Vaughan


"Fiercely anti-Semitic long before it became a question of pleasing the Germans, she became rich by catering to the very rich, and shared their dislike of Jews, trade unions, socialism, Freemasons, and communism."
Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel’s Secret War
By Hal Vaughn

Declassified, archival documents unearthed by Hal Vaughan reveal that the French Préfecture de Police had a document on Chanel in which she was described as "Couturier and perfumer. Pseudonym: Westminster. Agent reference: F 7124. Signalled as suspect in the file" (Pseudonyme: Westminster. Indicatif d'agent: F 7124. Signalée comme suspecte au fichier). For Vaughan, this was a piece of revelatory information linking Chanel to German intelligence operations. Anti-Nazi activist Serge Klarsfeld thus declared that "It is not because Chanel had a spy number that she was necessarily personally implicated. Some informers had numbers without being aware of it." ("Ce n'est pas parce Coco Chanel avait un numéro d'espion qu'elle était nécessairement impliquée personnellement. Certains indicateurs avaient des numéros sans le savoir").
Vaughan establishes that Chanel committed herself to the German cause as early as 1941 and worked for General Walter Schellenberg, chief of SS intelligence.[75] At the end of the war, Schellenberg was tried by the Nuremberg Military Tribunal, and sentenced to six years imprisonment for war crimes. He was released in 1951 owing to incurable liver disease and took refuge in Italy. Chanel paid for Schellenberg's medical care and living expenses, financially supported his wife and family and paid for Schellenberg's funeral upon his death in 1952.
 Operation Modellhut
In 1943, Chanel traveled to Berlin with Dinklage to meet with SS Reichsführer Heinrich Himmler to formulate strategy. In late 1943 or early 1944, Chanel and her SS master, Schellenberg, devised a plan to press England to end hostilities with Germany. When interrogated by British intelligence at war's end, Schellenberg maintained that Chanel was "a person who knew Churchill sufficiently to undertake political negotiations with him". For this mission, named Operation Modellhut ("Model Hat"), they recruited Vera Lombardi. Count Joseph von Ledebur-Wicheln, a Nazi agent who defected to the British Secret Service in 1944, recalled a meeting he had with Dinklage in early 1943. Dinklage proposed an inducement that would tantalize Chanel. He informed von Ledebur that Chanel's participation in the operation would be ensured if Lombardi was included: "The Abwehr had first to bring to France a young Italian woman [Lombardi] Coco Chanel was attached to because of her lesbian vices…" Unaware of the machinations of Schellenberg and her old friend Chanel, Lombardi played the part of their unwitting dupe, led to believe that the forthcoming journey to Spain would be a business trip exploring the possibilities of establishing the Chanel couture in Madrid. Lombardi's role was to act as intermediary, delivering a letter penned by Chanel to Winston Churchill, and forwarded to him via the British embassy in Madrid.Schellenberg's SS liaison officer, Captain Walter Kutchmann, acted as bagman, "told to deliver a large sum of money to Chanel in Madrid". Ultimately, the mission proved a failure. British intelligence files reveal that all collapsed, as Lombardi, on arrival, proceeded to denounce Chanel and others as Nazi spies.
 Protection from prosecution
In September 1944, Chanel was called in to be interrogated by the Free French Purge Committee, the épuration. The committee, which had no documented evidence of her collaboration activity, was obliged to release her. According to Chanel's grand-niece, Gabrielle Palasse Labrunie, when Chanel returned home she said, "Churchill had me freed"
A previously unpublished interview exists dating from September, 1944 when Malcolm Muggeridge, then an intelligence agent with the British MI6, interviewed Chanel after her appearance before the Free French investigators. Muggeridge pointedly questions Chanel about her allegiances, and wartime activities. As to her feelings of being the subject of a recent investigation of collaborators, Chanel had this to say of her interrogators: "It is odd how my feelings have evolved. At first, their conduct incensed me. Now, I feel almost sorry for those ruffians. One should refrain from contempt for the baser specimens of humanity…"
The extent of Winston Churchill's intervention can only be speculated upon. However, Chanel's escape from prosecution certainly speaks of layers of conspiracy,[dubious – discuss] protection at the highest levels. It was feared that if Chanel were ever made to testify at trial, the pro-Nazi sympathies and activities of top-level British officials, members of the society elite and those of the royal family itself would be exposed. It is believed that Churchill instructed Duff Cooper, British ambassador to the French provisional government, to "protect Chanel".
Finally induced to appear in Paris before investigators in 1949, Chanel left her retreat in Switzerland to confront testimony given against her at the war crime trial of Baron Louis de Vaufreland, a French traitor and highly placed German intelligence agent. Chanel denied all accusations brought against her. She offered the presiding judge, Leclercq, a character reference: "I could arrange for a declaration to come from Mr. Duff Cooper."
Chanel's friend and biographer Marcel Haedrich provided a telling estimation of her wartime interaction with the Nazi regime: "If one took seriously the few disclosures that Mademoiselle Chanel allowed herself to make about those black years of the occupation, one's teeth would be set on edge."
 Controversy
Vaughan's disclosure of the contents of recently de-classified military intelligence documents, and the subsequent controversy generated soon after the book's publication in August, 2011, prompted The House of Chanel to issue a statement, portions of which appeared in myriad media outlets. Chanel corporate "refuted the claim" (of espionage), while admitting that company officials had read only media excerpts of the book."
"What's certain is that she had a relationship with a German aristocrat during the War. Clearly it wasn't the best period to have a love story with a German even if Baron von Dincklage was English by his mother and she (Chanel) knew him before the War," the Chanel group said in a statement.[88] "The fashion house also disputed that the designer was anti-Semitic, saying Chanel would not have had Jewish friends or ties with the Rothschild family of financiers if she were."

In an interview given to the Associated Press, author Vaughan explains the trajectory of his research. "I was looking for something else and I come across this document saying 'Chanel is a Nazi agent…Then I really started hunting through all of the archives, in the United States, in London, in Berlin and in Rome and I come across not one, but 20, 30, 40 absolutely solid archival materials on Chanel and her lover, Baron Hans Gunther von Dincklage, who was a professional Abwehr spy." Vaughan also addressed the discomfort many felt with the revelations provided in his book: "A lot of people in this world don't want the iconic figure of Gabrielle Coco Chanel, one of France's great cultural idols, destroyed. This is definitely something that a lot of people would have preferred to put aside, to forget, to just go on selling Chanel scarves and jewelry."



Synopsis
Coco Chanel, high priestess of couture, created the look of the chic modern woman: her simple and elegant designs freed women from their corsets and inspired them to crop their hair. By the 1920s, Chanel employed more than two thousand people in her workrooms, and had amassed a personal fortune. But at the start of the Second World War, Chanel closed down her couture house and went to live quietly at the Ritz, moving to Switzerland after the war. For more than half a century, Chanel’s life from 1941 to 1954 has been shrouded in rumour. Neither Chanel nor her biographers have told the full story, until now.

In this explosive narrative Hal Vaughan pieces together Chanel’s hidden years, from the Nazi occupation of Paris to the aftermath of the Liberation. He uncovers the truth of Chanel’s anti-Semitism and long-whispered collaboration with Hitler’s officials. In particular, Chanel’s long relationship with ‘Spatz’, Baron von Dincklage, previously described as a tennis-playing playboy and German diplomat, and finally exposed here as a Nazi master spy and agent who ran an intelligence ring in the Mediterranean and reported directly to Joseph Goebbels.

Sleeping with the Enemy tells in detail how Chanel became a German intelligence operative, Abwehr agent F-7124; how she was enlisted in spy missions, and why she evaded arrest in France after the war. It reveals the role played by Winston Churchill in her escape from retribution; and how, after a nine-year exile in Switzerland with Dincklage, and despite French investigations into her espionage activities, Coco was able to return to Paris and triumphantly reinvent herself – and rebuild the House of Chanel.

As Hal Vaughan shows, far from being a heroine of France, Chanel was in fact one of its most surprising traitors.

.

Chanel No. F-7124
Agence France-Presse
Coco Chanel spied for the Nazis, according to a new book by U.S. author Hal Vaughan.

Henry Samuel, The Daily Telegraph · Aug. 17, 2011


Coco Chanel acted as a numbered Nazi agent during the Second World War, carrying out several spy and recruitment missions, a new biography claims.

Chanel was feted as a fashion pioneer who changed the way women dressed and thought about themselves. Her life has been the subject of countless biographies and films, which have charted her career but also her darker side as a Nazi sympathizer and collaborator.

But according to Sleeping With the Enemy: Coco Chanel's Secret War, the creator of the famed little black dress was more than this: She was a numbered Nazi agent working for the Abwehr, Germany's military intelligence agency.

After sifting through European and U.S. archives, Hal Vaughan, a U.S. journalist based in Paris, found the designer had an Abwehr label: Agent F-7124, She also had the code name Westminster, after her former lover, the anti-Semitic second duke of Westminster.

Chanel spent most of the war staying at the Hotel Ritz in Paris, sharing close quarters with spies and senior Nazis, including Hermann Goering and Joseph Goebbels.

It is well documented she took as a lover Baron Hans Gunther von Dincklage, an officer 13 years her junior. The liaison allowed her to pass freely in restricted areas.

When questioned on their relationship Chanel famously told the British photographer Cecil Beaton, "Really, sir, a woman of my age cannot be expected to look at his passport if she has a chance of a lover."

Previous works have depicted Chanel more as an amoral opportunist and shrewd businesswoman than an active collaborator, while von Dincklage has come across as a handsome, but feckless mondain, more bent on enjoying the high life than recruiting spies.

But Mr. Vaughan's book claims not only was Chanel "fiercely anti-Semitic," she also carried out missions for the Abwehr in Madrid and Berlin with von Dincklage, who is described as a dangerous "Nazi spy master."

"While French Resistance fighters were shooting Germans in the summer of 1941, Chanel was recruited as an agent by the Abwehr," the book claims.

Chanel travelled to Spain with Baron Louis de Vaufreland, a French traitor whose job was to "identify men and women who could be recruited, or coerced, into spying for Nazi Germany."

Mr. Vaughan also cites a British secret intelligence report documenting what Count Joseph von Ledebur-Wicheln, an Abwehr agent and defector, told MI6 in 1944.

In the file, he discussed how Chanel and von Dincklage visited Berlin in 1943 to offer Chanel's services as an agent to Heinrich Himmler.

The book adds weight to reports Winston Churchill intervened to spare Chanel - a friend from before the war - from arrest and trial, despite the fact she was on French Resistance "death rosters" as a collaborator. She fled to Switzerland, only to return in 1954 to resurrect her reputation and reinvent the House of Chanel.

Chanel was never charged with any wrongdoing and died aged 87 in 1971.

She is one of numerous esteemed French artists who collaborated with the Nazis, including Maurice Chevalier, Jean Cocteau, Sacha Guitry and Edith Piaf.



Was Coco Chanel a Nazi Agent?
By JUDITH WARNER

Gabrielle Chanel — better known as Coco — was a wretched human being. Anti-Semitic, homophobic, social climbing, opportunistic, ridiculously snobbish and given to sins of phrase-making like “If blonde, use blue perfume,” she was addicted to morphine and actively collaborated with the Germans during the Nazi occupation of Paris. And yet, her clean, modern, kinetic designs, which brought a high-society look to low-regarded fabrics, revolutionized women’s fashion, and to this day have kept her name synonymous with the most glorious notions of French taste and élan.
Exploring the contradictory complexities of this woman, at once so very awful and so very talented, should make for fascinating and enlightening reading. After all, Chanel’s life offers biographers a trove of juicy material. Chanel was a creative genius, her own expertly polished self-presentation perhaps the greatest triumph of her brilliantly inventive mind. She was born in 1883 in a hospice for the poor in the Loire Valley, to unwed parents of peasant stock and, upon her mother’s death, was placed at age 12 in a convent-orphanage to be raised by Roman Catholic nuns. This left her with a lifelong fear of losing everything. The point is nicely captured by Hal Vaughan in “Sleeping With the Enemy,” who quotes her as saying: “From my earliest childhood I’ve been certain that they have taken everything away from me, that I’m dead.”

She was put to work as a seamstress at age 20 and took the name Coco from a song she liked to sing in a rowdy cafe patronized by cavalry officers. One ex-­officer, the wealthy Étienne Balsan, installed her in his chateau, taught her to conduct herself with high style on horseback and, generally, gave her the skills she needed to make her way up through society. Balsan also introduced her to Arthur (Boy) Capel, a friend who soon became Chanel’s first great love, and who also, conveniently, set her up in a Paris apartment and helped her start her first business venture, designing sleekly simple women’s hats.

It wasn’t long before Chanel took Jazz Age Paris by storm, liberating women from their corsets, draping them in jersey and long strings of pearls and dousing them with the scent of modernity, Chanel No. 5. She caroused with Igor Stravinsky and Pablo Picasso, designed costumes for Serge Diaghilev's Ballets Russes and amused herself with the cash-poor White Russian aristocracy. As her personal fortunes rose, she turned her attention to making serious inroads into British high society, befriending Winston Churchill and the Prince of Wales and becoming, most notably, the mistress of the Duke of Westminster, Hugh Richard Arthur Grosvenor (known as Bendor), reputedly the wealthiest man in England.

Bendor’s — and Chanel’s — anti-­Semitism was vociferous and well documented; the pro-Nazi sensibilities of the Duke of Windsor and many in his circle have long been noted, too. All this, it appears, made the society of the British upper crust particularly appealing to Chanel. As Vaughan notes, after she was lured by a million-dollar fee to spend a few weeks in Hollywood in 1930 — Samuel Goldwyn, he writes, “did his best to keep Jews away from Chanel” — she found herself compelled to run straight back to England, so that she could wash away her brush with vulgarity in “a bath of nobility.”

It wasn’t much of a stretch, then, for Chanel, during wartime, to find herself the mistress of the German intelligence officer Baron Hans Günther von Dincklage, a charming character who had spied on the French fleet in the late 1920s, and who found himself pleasingly single in occupied Paris, having presciently divorced his half-Jewish German wife just before the passage of the Nuremberg Laws. It wasn’t any particular betrayal of her values, or morals or ideals either, for Chanel to find herself traveling to Madrid and Berlin to engage in cloak-and-dagger machinations with her country’s occupier.

The story of how Coco became Chanel has been told many times before over the past half-century, most recently (and, sad to say, much more engagingly) in last year’s “Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life,” by the British fashion columnist Justine Picardie. The story of how Chanel metamorphosed from a mere “horizontal collaborator” — the mistress of a Nazi — into an actual German secret agent has been less well known, though earlier writers have reported that she had worked for the Germans. It’s here that Vaughan makes his freshest contribution, using a wealth of materials gleaned from wartime police files and intelligence archives, some of which were only recently declassified by French and German authorities, to flesh out precisely how and why she became an agent, and how she sought to profit from her German connections during the war.

Vaughan ably charts Chanel’s clever opportunism as she works, first, to free her nephew André Palasse from a German prisoner-of-war camp, and later seeks to use the Nazis’ Aryanization of property laws to wrest control of her perfume empire away from the Jewish Wertheimer brothers. Yet his account of her one real mission for the Germans — a 1943 covert operation code-named Modellhut (“model hat”) in which she was meant to use her contacts to get a message to Winston Churchill from the SS stating that a number of leading Nazis wanted to break with Adolf Hitler and negotiate a separate peace with England — emerges neither clearly nor logically from his highly detailed telling. Too many diplomatic documents are reproduced at too much length. Contradictions are not clearly sorted out. Vaughan seems to have felt as though his rich source materials could speak for themselves, but they don’t — and he doesn’t succeed in lending authority to the accounts of contemporary witnesses who were, undoubtedly, unreliable.

Despite her indisputable collaborationist activities, and after a brief period of uncertainty during which she was questioned by a French judge, Chanel eventually got off pretty much scot-free after the war, once again using her wiles to protect herself most expertly. She tipped off the poet and anti-Nazi partisan Pierre Reverdy, a longtime occasional lover, so that he could arrange the arrest of her wartime partner in collaboration, Baron Louis de Vaufreland Piscatory; she paid off the family of the former Nazi chief of SS intelligence Gen. Walter Schellenberg when she heard that he was preparing to publish his memoirs. (It was Schellenberg who had given her the “model hat” assignment.) Vaughan could have done better in providing the context to the seemingly incomprehensible ease of Chanel’s reintegration into French fashion and society, telling more, for example, of the widespread desire for forgetting and moving forward that held sway in Charles de Gaulle's postwar France.

These weaknesses — of authorial voice and critical judgment — run through “Sleeping With the Enemy.” Vaughan, a retired diplomat who has made his home in Paris, has allowed his writing to become a bit too imbued with the reflexive verbal tics and general vive-la-séduction silliness of his adopted country. “Sometimes the kitten, sometimes the vamp, and often the vixen, . . . she must have melted Bendor’s knees” is how he captures Chanel in her 40s; “beautiful and sexy, her silhouette stunning,” he appraises her in her 50s. (Indeed, his English often sounds like French — the most cloying sort of breathy French — in translation.) Despite all he knows about Chanel, Vaughan often appears to be as beguiled, disarmed and charmed by Coco as were the men in her life — not to mention the countless women who have sought over the decades to cloak themselves in her image. And like them, he never gets beyond the self-protecting armor of her myth.

Judith Warner, a former special correspond­ent for Newsweek in Paris, is the author, most recently, of “We’ve Got Issues: Children and Parents in the Age of Medication.”


Phillips/Topical Press Agency — Hulton Archive — Getty Images
"A bath of nobility": Coco Chanel and the Duke of Westminster at the races in 1924.


 “Sleeping With the Enemy,” by Hal Vaughan

Salome danced. Scheherazade told tales. In the face of powerful, dangerous men, they used their skills differently. But both were beautiful, cunning, unafraid to employ sex for political ends. It’s a well-worn story, an archetype for the ages. But give that mythic siren a bit of documentary detail, ally her with Nazis, make her a spy and a Jew-hater, and the plot becomes startling. It shocks us all over again.

That is the crux of “Sleeping With the Enemy,” Hal Vaughan’s compelling chronicle of Coco Chanel, whose fame as the queen of couture made her a darling of princes and prime ministers. She was born on a hot afternoon in the Pays de la Loire, and she rose from poverty with little more than a dressmaker’s needle. But in Paris, by the eve of World War II, she was dressing the beautiful, perfuming the rich, drinking champagne with poets and impresarios. Sharp-tongued and funny, she became a friend to Winston Churchill, mistress to the Duke of Westminster, intimate of Picasso. When Hitler overran Paris, she didn’t hesitate to consort with the Gestapo, too.
Vaughan, a journalist, filmmaker and diplomat who has been “involved,” as his publisher coyly puts it, “in CIA operations,” offers us a different Chanel from any you’ll find at the company store. This is by no means the account of an emerging style — spare, easy, free of corsets and remarkably modern — but a tale of how a single-minded woman faced history, made hard choices, connived, lied, collaborated and used every imaginable wile to survive and see that the people she cared about survived with her. It’s not a pretty picture.

She was born Gabrielle Chasnel in a picturesque little town in western France. Her mother was a laundrywoman; her father, a street-hawker. Her parents didn’t marry until she was 12, but very soon after, her mother was dead, her brothers at work on a farm, and she and her sisters installed in a Cistercian orphanage in rural France. It was during those years in the nunnery that young Gabrielle acquired a skill and a doctrine that would guide her for the rest of her life: She learned to sew; and she learned to hate Jews. “Chanel’s anti-Semitism was not only verbal,” her friend, an editor of the magazine Marie Claire, avowed, “but passionate, demoded, and often embarrassing. Like all the children of her age she had studied the catechism: hadn’t the Jews crucified Jesus?”

At 18, she was striking: slim, dark-haired and dark-eyed, with a fresh, luminous complexion. She moved to a pension for girls in Moulins and found night work as a singer in a cabaret. By day, she worked as a seamstress. She took the name “Coco,” short for “coquette,” French for a kept woman — and, within a few years, she became exactly that: a demimondaine, living with her lover. He was Etienne Balsan, an ex-cavalry officer from a family of wealthy textile industrialists. Balsan brought her to his chateau, introduced her to his friends and taught her how to ride — a skill that would serve her royally.

Keen-eyed and discriminating, Chanel soon learned what it took to live well. She would remain grateful to Balsan for the rest of her life, but within two years, she was in love with someone else: Arthur “Boy” Capel, one of Balsan’s riding partners — a handsome English playboy with a large bank account and a web of connections. In 1908, he snatched her away, installed her in a Paris apartment and helped her launch a business making ladies’ hats. Boy Capel proved as generous with his wallet as he was fickle in love. When Chanel’s older sister committed suicide, he arranged for Chanel’s nephew, Andre Palasse (whom Chanel quickly adopted), to attend a boarding school in England. Capel would go on to finance her clothing boutiques in Paris, Deauville and Biarritz.


But Capel would take someone else as a wife. An upper-class Englishman could hardly marry a descendant of peasants — a courtesan. Nevertheless, Chanel remained his mistress until his death in a car accident 10 years later. She claimed she would never find happiness again. But at 35, she was rich, living in a glamorous apartment overlooking the Seine, poised to open the House of Chanel and acquire ever more wealth, lovers and notoriety. One world war had already come and gone, and it had not affected the gilded trajectory.


Never-ending stories: Is there anything left for biographers to reveal?
Gone are the days of respectful 'life-writings' and long gaps between comparative biographical studies. As yet another Coco Chanel exposé arrives, John Walsh asks, are there still any new facts for writers to uncover?

Wednesday, 17 August 2011 in The Independent

A hot news item from the 1940s was announced this week. On the Gawker website, in The Washington Post, in Agence France-Presse, the big revelation was splashed for all to see: Coco Chanel, the great fashion designer, clothes horse and begetter of the world's most famous perfume, spied for the Nazis during the Second World War.

Seventy years after the events, the news caused a stir. "Coco Chanel spent WWII collaborating with the Nazis, says a new book that outlines her life," reported the Daily Mail, going on to quote from the book Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel, Nazi Agent by Hal Vaughan, who claims that the grande dame of the little black dress was practically a Nazi herself: "Fiercely anti-Semitic long before it became a question of pleasing the Germans, she became rich by catering to the very rich and shared their dislike of Jews, trade unions, socialism, Freemasons and Communism."

The book also claims that "in 1940 Coco was recruited into the Abwehr and had a lover, Baron Hans Günther von Dincklage, who was honoured by Hitler and Goebbels in the war".

One's first response is to wonder whether Ms Chanel ever linked up with Hugo Boss, who designed the Nazi uniform and whose career blithely survived the war despite the taint of fascism. One's second response is to say: I thought we knew this stuff about the Nazi lover already. And a third is to wonder: how much more information about Coco bloody Chanel do I need in my life?

It seems only yesterday that Justine Picardie's Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life was garnering enthusiastic reviews for cutting through "the accretions of lies and romance" that surround Chanel's reputation. It came out in 2009, the same year as The Gospel According to Coco Chanel: Life Lessons from the World's Most Elegant Woman by Karen Karbo and Chesley McLaren, one of a number of self-help and picture-heavy tomes that accompanied the release of Anne Fontaine's movie Coco before Chanel starring the lovely Audrey Tautou (who, of course, also starred in the last big Chanel perfume television commercial) and, coincidentally, Jan Kounen's film Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky, which opened a few months later, starring Anna Mouglalis as the scissor-wielding horizontale.

Die-hard fans might already have been familiar with Chanel and Her World: Friends, Fashion and Fame by Edmonde Charles-Roux, published four years earlier, or indeed a full biography entitled Coco Chanel by Henry Gidel published in 2000 – or indeed they could have checked out a book called Chanel: A Woman of Her Own by Axel Madsen published by Bloomsbury as far back as 1991. It deals with her famous lovers (Cocteau, Stravinsky, Dali, the Duke of Westminster) and tells all about her German boyfriend, and her crackpot attempts to convey German peace proposals to Winston Churchill, whom she had met earlier through the Duke.

In other words, we knew most of the Nazi stuff 20 years ago. If we'd forgotten, the publication of the French historian Patrick Buisson's Erotic Years 1940-1945 in 2008 would have reminded us that Chanel spent most of the war in the Paris Ritz Hotel, that her boyfriend was the amusingly named Baron Hans Günther von Dincklage, and that he was a military attaché with the German embassy and a famous spy. Half of Paris knew about her liaison at the time, and condemned her for it. She herself claimed she'd used her affair with Baron Von Dincklage in order to meet a high-up general, in order to broker a peace deal with the Allies.

Perhaps this is what Hal Vaughan, the author of the new biography, means when he accuses her of "dabbling in Nazi foreign policy". He also accuses her of being "fiercely anti-Semitic", in using anti-Jew laws to close down a company to which she'd sold perfume-making rights to Chanel No 5. But as Justine Picardie argued in her biography, this unpleasant episode reeks more of commercial ruthlessness than of race hatred. Coco was, from first to last, a hard-faced, hard-nosed businesswoman with a flair for self-promotion and self-preservation. She slept with people she fancied, whether they were Nazi spies or English aristocrats. She did whatever it took to survive. And she lied and lied about her life, from the date of her birth to her upbringing in an orphanage, to her years as a demi-mondaine, one rung up from a prostitute.

So now, we have Hal Vaughan's slightly vieux-chapeau revelations about wartime espionage (the only intriguing detail in his account is that Chanel was allegedly recruited to the Abwehr military intelligence organisation under the code name of Agent F-7124 – though she was later accused by the Nazis of being a British spy), and that will do for the moment, won't it?

Well, no, actually – amazingly, there's another work in the pipeline, Chanel: an Intimate Life by Lisa Chaney, to be published in November this year. Mercifully, it starts in 1945, when her wartime shenanigans were over, but it shockingly reveals that, at some point after the war, the designer had sex with a woman, and occasionally indulged in "opiates", as the blurb quaintly calls them. As revelations go, these inhabit the same space as the information that ursine quadrupeds relieve themselves in leafy environs. Whoever thought it was worth commissioning another Coco book on the strength of some teeny details of sex and drugs?

Which raises the crucial question: what does it take to justify a biography today? What makes a publisher think that a dead person's life is worth the general reader's attention again? What makes it worth joining a herd of other authors writing about the same life?

The unofficial rules of "life-writing" used to hold that to publish a biography of a canonical figure (ie, one safely dead and consigned to a generally agreed "place" in history) less than 30 years after the last attempt, is a waste of both time and academic energy. Once Boswell had "done" Johnson, it was tacitly agreed, there was no need of another "life of" for a generation or two. The latter half of the 20th century, however, rewrote the rules. A new frankness in discussing sexual matters, a fascination with the minutiae of famous lives. A prurient interest in what was once deemed shocking behaviour, a wholesale lack of interest in Victorian-style hagiography – these all changed the face of biography in the late 1970s and 1980s.

Suddenly, you didn't have to wait 20 or 30 years if you had some juicy new information or some shocking new theory about the lives of the famous. Five years would do – or less. Victoria Glendinning recalled how amazed she was, when embarking on a new life of Anthony Trollope, to discover that three other Trollope biographers were already hard at work. The life-writing genre was suddenly deafened by the noise of tightly shut closets being flung open. New caches of letters, diaries and previously unseen material easily justified new lives of Victorian authors, politicians and adventurers, of Edwardian suffragettes, Bloomsbury intellectuals, pre-war sportsmen, post-war entertainers.

Shocking material, hitherto unpublishable, was suddenly available to all. John Lahr's sprightly life of the Sixties playwright Joe Orton, Prick Up Your Ears, with its frank account of gay high-jinks in public lavatories, could never have seen the light of publication before 1987. When Fiona MacCarthy brought out her life of Eric Gill, the sculptor and typographer, in 1989, she revealed to the world that he'd slept with every woman in his saintly Catholic commune in Wales, including maidservants, the wives of friends, his sisters, his two daughters – even the family dog. The facts had been available for years, explicitly laid out in Gill's self-accusing journals, but earlier biographers had been too cautious (or their publishers too shocked) to use it.

Some readers objected about what they regarded as a retrospective invasion of a subject's privacy, but their objections were brushed aside. "When you get the truth told without censure, then you realise how very various human nature is," Michael Holroyd, the doyen of biographers, told The Times. "The biographer's loyalty has to be the subject, and not what peripheral people are going to think about it."

Historical or literary figures about whose lives we'd speculated became fair game for several investigations. Hints of paedophilia or repressed sexuality became a focus of new biographies. Lewis Carroll's interest in, and photographs of, half-dressed little girls (and his artless letters to their parents) prompted a small industry of books. The lives of heroic figures with inscrutable emotional lives – Sir Robert Baden-Powell, founder of the Boy Scouts, Sir Richard Burton, explorer and translator of the Kama Sutra – were inspected for signs of perversity. It was fantastic. Furtive sensation-seekers, too wary to look for sexually explicit material on bookshop shelves, could get their kicks in biographies – if they didn't mind ploughing their way through 500 pages of extraneous material.

Today, prurient browsers with a fascination for reading about physical or sexual abuse can easily find them in the pages of the popular "misery memoir". The biographies in the modern best-seller lists are mostly lives of living celebrities and entertainers, with their own protocols of revelation, modesty and nuance. For an author to justify writing the life of a canonical figure, however, the rules are different. The biography doesn't have to be about sexual revelation any more. It's more likely to be about truth and identity. "A good biography," says DJ Taylor, author of lives of Thackeray and George Orwell, "should be about what Anthony Powell calls 'the personal myth' – not about what the subject did, but about the image of themselves that they projected to the world. Who they thought they were, what they think happened to them – and what the truth actually was."

That's precisely the double-perspective that has informed several recent literary biographies: John Carey's life of William Golding, which incorporates a huge, self-flagellating, million-word diary kept by the author of Lord of the Flies; Gordon Bowker's life of James Joyce, which constantly asks the question of exactly how "Irish" the author of Ulysses was, and thought himself to be. And it can be applied in spades to Coco Chanel, a woman who was forever at pains to project an image of fairy-tale sophistication.

She faked so much of her long and phenomenally successful life, it's hardly surprising biographers have queued up to try their luck at disinterring the truth – and are still doing so. In penury and plenty, in peace and war, in bedroom and showroom, there's plenty of Chanel's life to go round for the truffle-hunting truth-hound. And she knew very well what she was doing. "Reality is sad," she once said when living in Switzerland after the war, "and that handsome parasite that is the imagination will always be preferred to it. May my legend gain ground; I wish it a long and happy life."



Thursday, 12 June 2025

French furniture expert and restorer guilty of fake 18th-century chair scam / ‘Everything was fake but the money’: forgers in Versailles chair scandal await sentencing

 


French furniture expert and restorer guilty of fake 18th-century chair scam

 

Bill Pallot and Bruno Desnoues claimed chairs had adorned rooms of Marie Antoinette, in multimillion-euro con

 

Angelique Chrisafis in Paris

Wed 11 Jun 2025 15.49 BST

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2025/jun/11/french-furniture-expert-restorer-fake-chair-scam

 

A French furniture expert and a renowned restorer have been found guilty of conning the art world with a multimillion-euro scam in which they faked 18th-century chairs they claimed had adorned the rooms of historic figures including Marie Antoinette.

 

In one of the biggest forgery scandals to hit the French art world for decades, the two men duped not just wealthy collectors including a Qatari prince but also the Palace of Versailles.

 

The chateau, which before the French Revolution was home to Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, spent more than €1.5m (£1.3m) acquiring six royal chairs that were fakes. The case was seen as extremely damaging to France’s reputation as a world centre for heritage and museum collections. After the police investigation began, in 2016 the ministry of culture ordered an audit of Versailles’s acquisitions policy.

 

Bill Pallot, 61, who was known as the world’s leading expert on 18th-century royal French furniture, wrote the definitive book about seats of that era and was nicknamed Père La Chaise. On Wednesday he was given a four-year suspended prison sentence and a €200,000 fine. He was also sentenced to four months in prison, which he had already served on remand after his arrest.

 

The judges ruled that between 2008 and 2015, Pallot was behind the scam in which he and one of France’s most acclaimed woodcarvers and restorers, Bruno Desnoues, produced what the court in Pontoise heard were “extraordinarily convincing” fake 18th-century chairs.

 

The court was told that the scheme began as a bet between Pallot and Desnoues to see who could be duped by fake seats. Pallot told the trial: “We said we’d do it as a game, to see if the art market noticed or not.”

 

The men used old wooden frames of real 18th-century chairs as a base so that the dating of the wood could be authentic, but the trial was told that everything about the chairs was fake. Soon, through some of Paris’s top galleries and auction houses, the chairs were selling for hundreds of thousands of euros each to wealthy collectors including a Qatari prince. The scam is estimated to have caused €4.5m in damages.

 

Desnoues had previously worked as a restorer of furniture for the Château de Versailles, where he had once been commissioned for a restoration of Louis XVI’s bed. He told the court: “I’m into work and sculpture. I’ve never been passionate about money.”

 

During the investigation, Desnoues’s wife described the antiques world her husband worked in as “a detestable environment where antique dealers want to make money at any cost”. Desnoues was given a three-year suspended prison sentence and a €100,000 fine. He was also given a four-month prison sentence, which he had already served on remand.

 

The scam was discovered in 2014 when tax authorities noticed suspicious financial and property transactions for large sums being made by a couple outside Paris who had a relatively low income. A money-laundering investigation led police to find a link to Desnoues and what became known in France as the “fake chair” scam. The investigation took nine years.

 

Laurent Kraemer, an art and antiques dealer at the prestigious Kraemer Gallery, who sold four of the chairs, told the court he and his team were “100% convinced, without a doubt, that these were authentic chairs”. His gallery was acquitted of charges of negligence.

 

Several experts told the court that the fraud was “blatant” and could have been spotted if the fakes had been compared with real chairs at Versailles. One expert said anomalies in the chairs were visible to the naked eye, notably the absence of signs that the wood had retracted with time.

 

Pallot told the court: “It’s said there is no such thing as the perfect crime. There’s no such thing as a perfect fake either. We could have done better. We’re not good forgers. We didn’t make the wood retract.”



‘Everything was fake but the money’: forgers in Versailles chair scandal await sentencing

Antiques dealer Bill Pallot and accomplice Bruno Desnoues sold €3.7m worth of counterfeit royal furniture

Vincent Noce

5 May 2025

https://www.theartnewspaper.com/2025/05/05/everything-was-fake-but-the-money-forgers-in-versailles-chair-scandal-await-sentencing

 

Bill Pallot has said that the scam started in 2007 as “a joke” to see if he could dupe antiques experts Baptiste Giroudon/

 

It has been almost a decade since the Parisian antiques dealer Bill Pallot stunned the art world by confessing to faking a series of royal chairs. According to the case, filed in 2016, 11 chairs and armchairs, presented as commissioned by relatives of Louis XV and Louis XVI, were sold for a total of €3.7m through Parisian galleries and Sotheby’s to the Château of Versailles as well as private collectors including Prince Hamad Al Thani of Qatar and an heir to the Hermès family. The ensuing investigation uncovered huge profits, off-shore companies in Panama, Swiss bank accounts, hidden sums in cash and forged provenances—and has shed light on the dark face of the antique furniture market.

 

In March, Pallot, who was the expert of the Galerie Didier Aaron, faced trial for commercial fraud, along with a carpenter and restorer, Bruno Desnoues, who admitted to fabricating the forgeries. The prosecutor asked for three years of prison time, including a two-year suspended sentence for Pallot, and two years, with a one year suspended sentence, for Desnoues. Both could be banned from their trade for five years. Their verdicts are expected on 11 June.

 

If the court of Pontoise, near Versailles, follows the submissions then neither of the accused, who spent five months in pre-trial detention, would go back to prison. The prosecutor has asked for heavy fines: €300,000 for Pallot and €100,000 for Desnoues, plus the confiscation of €200,000 found in cash in his bank safe. Pallot also risks the seizure of his Paris apartment on Avenue Marceau, valued at more than €1.5m. He has already had to sell around 900 objects from his eclectic collection at auction to cover a €1.8m fiscal adjustment.

 

But the heaviest fine—€700,000—was requested for the prestigious Galerie Kraemer, which sold four of the fake seats. In one case, the gallery sold to Prince Al Thani a pair of chairs for €2m, which it had purchased for €200,000; the collector was refunded. Supposedly commissioned by Queen Marie Antoinette, the pair had been classified by the French state as a “national treasure”, at the request of the Château de Versailles, which had considered buying them. The prosecutor asked for a one-year suspended prison sentence against Laurent Kraemer for “negligence” in his expertise and the making of false provenances.

 

Kraemer, who is also charged in another procedure for a series of allegedly fake Louis XIV furniture, said he was convinced that the seats sold by his company were genuine. “He is a victim of the fraud, not an accomplice,” his lawyer Martin Reynaud stated, insisting that he never had direct contact with the forgers, who were hiding behind a middleman, Guillaume Dillée. A close friend of Pallot, this expert fled to Australia and was not summoned in court, nor was Sotheby’s expert Patrick Leperlier.

 

The scam was discovered when a delivery driver was arrested after his investment of more than €1m in real estate in France and Portugal was flagged by the authorities. He confessed to acting as a middleman for Desnoues, who, when pressed to explain his hidden incomes, confessed to the forgeries.

 

Pallot was the world’s leading specialist of royal seats, and in charge of antique furniture at the Galerie Didier Aaron. He was a distinguished professor at the École du Louvre and the Sorbonne and a scholar who curators would question if they had a doubts about a royal armchair. “I was the head and Desnoues was the hands,” he told the court. Desnoues was the main restorer of Versailles furniture and was even invited to make a copy of Louis XVI’s bed for the royal apartment.

 

There is no way the curators could have guessed such diabolic forgeries

Corinne Hershkovitch, lawyer

 

Pallot told the court that their scam started in 2007 as “a joke”, a challenge to see if they could dupe the best experts. “It went like a breeze,” he said, adding: “Everything was fake but the money.” As the seats were mostly sold through his middleman, he claimed he personally never “intended to cheat the palace of Versailles”. However, Corinne Hershkovitch, the lawyer for Versailles, accused him of having “trapped the château by making seats which were missing in the royal apartments”. She tells The Art Newspaper: “There was no way the curators could have guessed such diabolic forgeries made by these brilliant experts, who were at the top of their trade.”


Wednesday, 11 June 2025

THE GREAT "PREPPY" REVOLUTION ... BIG FUSS ABOUT NOTHING IN THE "W.A.S.P." UNIVERSUM




Lately the Preppy World and the Wasp Universum have been very excited and nervous ... after the reedition of the mythic "Take Ivy" in English and the edition of the new "Preppy Handbook / True Preppy" by Lisa Birnbach, now, a new Ivy League-Preppy-WASP "Guide"is published by two British Authors: "The Ivy Look".

Studying the Preppy look and its reference points
Jul 25, 2010



NEW YORK - JUST like European currency, European men's wear has been in the dumps lately.
Suddenly all that rigorous, over-designed and unwearable stuff cranked out by Raf Simons and his ilk seems as inadvertently retro as a Eurail Pass.
American style, on the other hand, is staging a comeback, belaying itself hand-over-hand out of the crevasse it fell into a decade ago, just as spunky Tommy Hilfiger and the sturdy little American dollar seem to have done.
Signs of this are visible not only in the brisk business Ralph Lauren's new restaurant in Paris is doing selling le hamburger to the French (whose not-so-secret secret for staying slender, if you will forgive the digression, is cigarettes: in Paris even dogs and infants smoke) or even in the flurry of prepublication attention generated by 'True Prep: It's a Whole New World,' the follow-up to the best-seller 'The Official Preppy Handbook,' published in 1980.
Since last year, when, as David Colman noted in these pages, a new age dawned of label-archaeology, designers have been relentlessly scouring the back pages of American sportswear for all things homegrown - the more obscure, hand-crafted, fuddy-duddy and arcane the better.
Ray-Bans were suddenly on a list of Old School must-haves and so were wool vests from the Filson, and Red Wing boots and Alden loafers and Gitman oxford cloth shirts and Sperry Top-Siders and Quoddy moccasins.
Designers as varied as Thom Browne, Scott Sternberg of Band of Outsiders, Billy Reid and Frank Muytjens of J. Crew all made hay with the conservative classics.
The style became so ubiquitous that, the designer Michael Bastian said, 'The whole preppy machine requires a recalibration.' It has become 'a reference to a reference,' Bastian added.
And, as it happens, few in the fashion business would have much trouble naming the precise source of the numerous fashion 'references' he had in mind.
'Take Ivy,' a slender volume of photographs, commissioned by Kensuke Ishizu, the founder of an Ivy League-inspired clothing line called Van Jacket, was first published in 1965, the yield of a fact-finding trip taken by a Japanese photographer and three writers to Ivy League campuses.
Part style manual for Japanese fans of American 'trad' style and, somewhat inadvertently, an ethnographic study, 'Take Ivy' went on to become, in the decades since publication, the nearly unattainable center of a passionate cult.
People spent years hunting down rare copies. They traded them online for prices that reached into the thousands. They photocopied and distributed them in design studios like fashion samizdat.
'When I first started at J. Press and went to Japan, they had an original copy there and I flipped out,' said Mark McNairy, the designer of New Amsterdam, who formerly worked neo-retro wonders at the venerable label J. Press.
'I got them to photocopy the whole book for me and I used that for a couple years,' he added. 'Then a men's magazine in Japan did a limited reissue and sent me one as a Christmas gift.'
McNairy hoarded that copy until the day his wife wanted a costly new handbag. 'Then I sold it on eBay at the height of when everybody was going crazy for it.'
Time, it develops, has done little to dim the allure of 'Take Ivy,' with its guileless snapshots of handsome, fit and presumably bright young lugs disporting themselves in dining halls, on the College Green at Dartmouth, along Nassau Street in Princeton and in Harvard Yard.
'More influential as a myth or Holy Grail that no one could get their hands on,' than as an actual object of use, according to Bastian, 'Take Ivy' nevertheless once occupied a treasured position on his assistant's desk when that particular designer was toiling for Ralph Lauren.
'He used to have a pack of Xeroxes and was one of those people who passed 'Take Ivy' around in back alleys for a long time.'
Not long after the blogger John Tinseth scanned the book and posted the pages on his site, The Trad, a slew of new collections suddenly appeared with 'Take Ivy' as their 'inspiration.'
In Tokihito Yoshida's spring 2011 collection for Woolrich Woolen Mills, the designer was, he said, 'oddly influenced by the work of forward thinking Japanese photographer, T. Hayashida,' and the book.
Starting next week it anyone with $24.95 will be able to experience the 'odd' influence of 'Take Ivy' when, for the first time in 45 years, the book is reprinted (powerhouse Books) with an English language text.
Not surprisingly that text, indecipherable to any but Japanese readers all these years, is equally awed and bemused by the folkways of idealized Ivy Leaguers with 'their sound minds and bodies,' their letter-sweaters and their leafy, cloistered campuses still dominated in those chummy sex-segregated days by men.
'Men's clothing in Japan in those days was very wannabe,' Hajime Hasegawa, one of the book's authors, said last week by telephone from Japan.
Explaining why it was that the owners of Van Jacket sent three writers and the photographer Teruyoshi Hayashida on a fact-finding tour of Eastern college campuses, Hasegawa explained: 'Men in Japan were just drab clones of each other in the postwar period. The US was the big thing, the big ideal.'
The team took 'tens of thousands' of pictures, Hasegawa said, of handsome young Ivy League men in slim-fitting flat front khakis, madras Bermuda shorts, anoraks, blue button-down Oxford cloth shirts and ... well, essentially all the stuff you'd see in a current J. Crew catalogue.
'I was always obsessed with that book,' said Muytjens, creative director of J. Crew, which will sell 'Take Ivy' in both limited and mass market editions at its men's wear stores. 'Even though it is old hat now for people in the design world, it is so completely valid, still.'
What, after all, is the appeal of 'Take Ivy,' sartorial or otherwise? Is it just nostalgia?
Is it the vision of a bygone world populated by young men who, as the writer Malcolm Gladwell once noted, were sometimes selected by admissions officers as much on the basis of patrician beauty as an elevated IQ?
Is it the fantasy of upper-class belonging, the one Ralph Lauren has parlayed into a multibillion-dollar empire?
'The reality is the people in that book at that time went to schools and belonged to clubs that most ordinary people couldn't get into,' said Lisa Birnbach, an author of 'The Official Preppy Handbook' and 'True Prep.'
''Take Ivy,'' Birnbach said, is a ruling class 'look book,' a template for any budding Jay Gatsby.
Of course the preppy look now signifies little in terms of class.
Everybody's a preppy when all it takes now to achieve the appearance of having descended from generations of Groton men is a flipped collar, a pair of Top-Siders and checkered shorts.
'It's just fashion now,' Birnbach said. ''Take Ivy' and I are guilty for having ruined it all.' -- AP