Sunday, 29 June 2025

Henley Royal Regatta 2025 - Tickets on Sale Now


Henley Royal Regatta 2025

Tuesday, 1 July - Sunday, 6 July

Tickets on Sale Now!

 

Henley Royal Regatta is undoubtedly the best-known regatta in the world, and a highlight of both the summer sporting calendar and the social season.

 

The Regatta attracts thousands of visitors over the week, and spectators are thrilled by over 400 races of an international standard, which can include Olympic rowers, as well as crews new to the event.


2025 Retail Collection

Thursday, 26 June 2025

The Bezos-Sánchez Wedding and the Triumph of Tacky




Opinion

Guest Essay

The Bezos-Sánchez Wedding and the Triumph of Tacky

 

June 25, 2025, 1:00 a.m. ET

By Amy Odell

Ms. Odell is the author of “Anna: The Biography.”

https://www.nytimes.com/2025/06/25/opinion/jeff-bezos-lauren-sanchez-wedding.html

 

Some of the world’s richest people are gathering for the wedding of Jeff Bezos, the world’s third-richest man, in one of the world’s most touristy cities, Venice, and it’s easy to ask: What happened to understatement and restraint? In the run-up to the wedding, Mr. Bezos was photographed by paparazzi on the deck of his yacht with his intended, Lauren Sánchez, both in their swimsuits, frolicking in foam like a couple of college kids on spring break. Meanwhile, missiles and bombs have been falling just a few time zones away,

 

Not so long ago, members of high society were fixated on trying to low-key their way out of the perils of income inequality. Minimalism and quiet luxury were in vogue. But in the wake of President Trump’s second election, it’s the luxe life at full volume. He gilded the White House, turning it into a Rococo Liberace lair. Swaggy and braggy have replaced stealth wealth. Flaunting it is in. For women, that means sequins, diamonds, tight silhouettes and big hair. TikTok’s latest star, Becca Bloom, has drawn millions of fans by regularly sharing videos of her lavish jewelry and Hermès shopping hauls. Even the bandage dress is trending again. The breast implant business just keeps getting bigger and is expected to reach $4.6 billion by 2030, up from nearly $3 billion in 2024.

 

For men, it means a hypermasculine look: muscles and slicked-back hair; tight, tailored suits with big Windsor knots.

 

And now there are the Bezos-Sánchez nuptials, the most internationally notable ruling-class wedding since the Ambani-Merchant union last year in India. It’s already drawn protesters determined to make Venice the city “that did not bend to oligarchs.” (The couple had to move their main reception to a new location to avoid activists who threatened to fill the canals with inflatable crocodiles.) Since news of Mr. Bezos and Ms. Sánchez’s relationship broke in a tabloid scandal in early 2019, Ms. Sánchez has become an object of public fascination, her every movement parsed by tabloids and gossipmongers. With this much attention, she’s become one of the most visible women on (or off, as it may be) the planet, and therefore a significant fashion influencer.

 

Her fiancé, who shed his nerdy image and baggy office clothes for a personal-trained body, tight polo shirts and aviators, has already been anointed an unlikely style icon. Like the MAGA bros who favor traditional suiting and clean-shaven faces, his athleisure emphasizes his power, not cutting-edge fashion sense.

 

Ms. Sánchez, too, dresses to emphasize her clout. She’s long preferred belts with noticeable-from-a-distance hardware, embellished dresses, stiletto heels, low-cut necklines, high-cut hemlines and big jewelry. Her engagement ring is thought to be in the vicinity of 30 carats and cost somewhere between $3 million and $5 million, but it was easily dwarfed by the diamond-encrusted choker she wore to a gala in Cannes recently, with a stone that looked to be the size of a bike reflector. There was nothing low-key about her recent flaunty Paris bachelorette party, which was attended by stars such as Kim Kardashian and Kris Jenner, and included a visit to the Hermès store with executives from the brand.

 

The luxury industry — which faces its first slowdown in 15 years, according to a recent study — has economic interest in embracing Ms. Sánchez, who represents the wealthy Very Important Clients who make up 2 percent of luxury customers and 40 percent of sales. “The customer driving global luxury is quite tacky in a lot of cases, and no one really admits it,” an anonymous fashion investor told The Cut for a 2024 article about this crucial group of shoppers. V.I.C.s are always looking for a reason to get decked out in their designer finest, social norms and sensitivities be damned, and Ms. Sánchez seems to embody the idea that if you’re rich enough, you may as well.

 

What has fascinated the public about Ms. Sánchez, like any number of women who personify a certain period, is how she puts herself together. Seemingly unafraid to flout sartorial norms, she attended a state dinner at the White House in 2024 wearing a gown with a sheer lace corseted bodice, causing People to wonder if the dress broke “White House protocol.” She later attended Mr. Trump’s inauguration with what looked like lingerie peeking out of her white blazer, leaving a Vogue headline to note that she “forgoes inauguration style codes.” She never conformed to the look of oversized minimalism popularized in the 2010s by the designer Phoebe Philo for Celine, still revered by elite crowds that live in places like Manhattan and Montecito, Calif., and fancy themselves practitioners of good taste.

 

Ms. Sánchez’s journey from the tabloids to the pages of Vogue, which did a splashy feature on her in its December 2023 issue, has fascinated and repelled onlookers, the same way Ms. Kardashian’s entree to the magazine — and therefore to the fashion world — did when she landed on its cover for the first time in April 2014, pegged to her marriage to Kanye West. Ms. Kardashian had been a tabloid star for many years, but until that point, Vogue hadn’t been featuring her much.

 

After the cover dropped, people threatened to cancel their subscriptions. But it was a provocation worth making, Vogue’s editor in chief, Anna Wintour, later said. “I was told that it was trashy, that it was beneath us, what was Vogue coming to?” she recalled. “We were trying to respond to what we saw — a couple being [an] undeniable force in our culture, and they were part of the conversation at that time.” The same could be said about Ms. Sánchez and Mr. Bezos now. Unsurprisingly, Vogue has reportedly been talking with the couple about an exclusive.

 

Ms. Sánchez recalls another unlikely Vogue subject: Ivana Trump. Ms. Wintour gave her a cover in 1990, shortly before her divorce from Mr. Trump, after worrying, as I reported in a biography of Ms. Wintour, that she was “too tacky.” Around the time the cover came out, Ms. Trump was criticized for “dressing like a Christmas tree.” The issue’s newsstand sales of 750,000 copies easily justified Ms. Wintour’s decision.

 

As much as those with more understated taste might turn up their noses at the crassness of the Bezos-Sánchez wedding’s display, tacky is very clearly carrying the day. Maybe hating on tacky oligarchs is itself just elitist. It’s doubtful anyone attending the wedding cares very much what those of us who weren’t invited think, anyway.

 

Amy Odell is the author of the Back Row newsletter and “Anna: The Biography” and a forthcoming biography of Gwyneth Paltrow.

Wednesday, 18 June 2025

DOWNTON ABBEY: THE GRAND FINALE - Official Teaser Trailer [HD] -



Downton Abbey: The Grand Finale is an upcoming historical drama film directed by Simon Curtis from a screenplay by Julian Fellowes. It is the sequel to Downton Abbey: A New Era (2022) and the third and final film in the Downton Abbey franchise. Many of the original franchise's cast members, who also appeared in the previous two films, will return. Paul Giamatti and Dominic West reprise their roles as Harold Levinson from the television series and Guy Dexter from the previous film, respectively, while Joely Richardson, Alessandro Nivola, Simon Russell Beale and Arty Froushan join the cast.

 

Imelda Staunton, who portrays Maud, stated in March 2024 that a third and final film in the Downton Abbey franchise was being planned, with the main cast set to return. Following the announcement of several cast members reprising their roles in May, filming took place that month and concluded in August. The official title was announced in March 2025. A teaser trailer was released in June 2025.

 

Downton Abbey: The Grand Finale is scheduled to be released by Focus Features on 12 September 2025.


Monday, 16 June 2025

Mohamed Al-Fayed, the monster of Harrods



The Monster of Harrods: Al-Fayed and the secret, shameful history of a British institution Hardcover – September 23, 2025

by Alison Kervin (Author)

 

‘Sensational new book’ – MAIL ON SUNDAY

 

‘Bombshell book’ – THE SUN

 

‘Tell-all book’ – MAIL ON SUNDAY

 

'Explosive new book' – DAILY MAIL

 

AN UNFLINCHING EXPOSÉ OF MOHAMED AL-FAYED'S 25-YEAR REIGN OF TERROR AT HARRODS

 

DECADES OF ABUSE.

 

DOZENS OF VICTIMS.

 

NO CONSEQUENCES.

 

To the public, he was the eccentric owner of one of the world’s great department stores. But behind closed doors, Al-Fayed ruled with cruelty, humiliation and unchecked abuse.

 

Why were his crimes ignored?

Why did those in power look the other way?

 

This explosive investigation lays bare the power, corruption and complicity at the heart of an iconic British institution.

 

Drawing on firsthand interviews with former staff, allies, executives and police officers, The Monster of Harrods exposes chilling accounts of misconduct, many revealed here for the first time. Through court records, testimonies and unpublished material, the book uncovers:

 

The irreparable damage to victims’ lives

The NDAs, threats and systemic failures that kept them silent

The staggering indifference of those who knew but did nothing

 

This isn’t just about one man’s abuse of power – it’s about the culture that enabled him. The Monster of Harrods presents damning new evidence, and asks urgent questions of the people and institutions who stood by.

 

Ultimately, this is a book about courage – the courage of the survivors who have stepped forward to reclaim their narratives from a man who tried to reduce them to objects. Their testimony stands as both an indictment of the past and a warning for the future.

 

Their bravery demands nothing less than our complete attention.

 

'The extraordinary courage of these survivors, who, despite everything, were willing to relive their trauma in hope of finally being heard, should not be underestimated. Many have waited decades for acknowledgement, carrying their wounds in silence while their abuser was celebrated.'


Thursday, 12 June 2025

French furniture expert and restorer guilty of fake 18th-century chair scam / ‘Everything was fake but the money’: forgers in Versailles chair scandal await sentencing

 


French furniture expert and restorer guilty of fake 18th-century chair scam

 

Bill Pallot and Bruno Desnoues claimed chairs had adorned rooms of Marie Antoinette, in multimillion-euro con

 

Angelique Chrisafis in Paris

Wed 11 Jun 2025 15.49 BST

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2025/jun/11/french-furniture-expert-restorer-fake-chair-scam

 

A French furniture expert and a renowned restorer have been found guilty of conning the art world with a multimillion-euro scam in which they faked 18th-century chairs they claimed had adorned the rooms of historic figures including Marie Antoinette.

 

In one of the biggest forgery scandals to hit the French art world for decades, the two men duped not just wealthy collectors including a Qatari prince but also the Palace of Versailles.

 

The chateau, which before the French Revolution was home to Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, spent more than €1.5m (£1.3m) acquiring six royal chairs that were fakes. The case was seen as extremely damaging to France’s reputation as a world centre for heritage and museum collections. After the police investigation began, in 2016 the ministry of culture ordered an audit of Versailles’s acquisitions policy.

 

Bill Pallot, 61, who was known as the world’s leading expert on 18th-century royal French furniture, wrote the definitive book about seats of that era and was nicknamed Père La Chaise. On Wednesday he was given a four-year suspended prison sentence and a €200,000 fine. He was also sentenced to four months in prison, which he had already served on remand after his arrest.

 

The judges ruled that between 2008 and 2015, Pallot was behind the scam in which he and one of France’s most acclaimed woodcarvers and restorers, Bruno Desnoues, produced what the court in Pontoise heard were “extraordinarily convincing” fake 18th-century chairs.

 

The court was told that the scheme began as a bet between Pallot and Desnoues to see who could be duped by fake seats. Pallot told the trial: “We said we’d do it as a game, to see if the art market noticed or not.”

 

The men used old wooden frames of real 18th-century chairs as a base so that the dating of the wood could be authentic, but the trial was told that everything about the chairs was fake. Soon, through some of Paris’s top galleries and auction houses, the chairs were selling for hundreds of thousands of euros each to wealthy collectors including a Qatari prince. The scam is estimated to have caused €4.5m in damages.

 

Desnoues had previously worked as a restorer of furniture for the Château de Versailles, where he had once been commissioned for a restoration of Louis XVI’s bed. He told the court: “I’m into work and sculpture. I’ve never been passionate about money.”

 

During the investigation, Desnoues’s wife described the antiques world her husband worked in as “a detestable environment where antique dealers want to make money at any cost”. Desnoues was given a three-year suspended prison sentence and a €100,000 fine. He was also given a four-month prison sentence, which he had already served on remand.

 

The scam was discovered in 2014 when tax authorities noticed suspicious financial and property transactions for large sums being made by a couple outside Paris who had a relatively low income. A money-laundering investigation led police to find a link to Desnoues and what became known in France as the “fake chair” scam. The investigation took nine years.

 

Laurent Kraemer, an art and antiques dealer at the prestigious Kraemer Gallery, who sold four of the chairs, told the court he and his team were “100% convinced, without a doubt, that these were authentic chairs”. His gallery was acquitted of charges of negligence.

 

Several experts told the court that the fraud was “blatant” and could have been spotted if the fakes had been compared with real chairs at Versailles. One expert said anomalies in the chairs were visible to the naked eye, notably the absence of signs that the wood had retracted with time.

 

Pallot told the court: “It’s said there is no such thing as the perfect crime. There’s no such thing as a perfect fake either. We could have done better. We’re not good forgers. We didn’t make the wood retract.”



‘Everything was fake but the money’: forgers in Versailles chair scandal await sentencing

Antiques dealer Bill Pallot and accomplice Bruno Desnoues sold €3.7m worth of counterfeit royal furniture

Vincent Noce

5 May 2025

https://www.theartnewspaper.com/2025/05/05/everything-was-fake-but-the-money-forgers-in-versailles-chair-scandal-await-sentencing

 

Bill Pallot has said that the scam started in 2007 as “a joke” to see if he could dupe antiques experts Baptiste Giroudon/

 

It has been almost a decade since the Parisian antiques dealer Bill Pallot stunned the art world by confessing to faking a series of royal chairs. According to the case, filed in 2016, 11 chairs and armchairs, presented as commissioned by relatives of Louis XV and Louis XVI, were sold for a total of €3.7m through Parisian galleries and Sotheby’s to the Château of Versailles as well as private collectors including Prince Hamad Al Thani of Qatar and an heir to the Hermès family. The ensuing investigation uncovered huge profits, off-shore companies in Panama, Swiss bank accounts, hidden sums in cash and forged provenances—and has shed light on the dark face of the antique furniture market.

 

In March, Pallot, who was the expert of the Galerie Didier Aaron, faced trial for commercial fraud, along with a carpenter and restorer, Bruno Desnoues, who admitted to fabricating the forgeries. The prosecutor asked for three years of prison time, including a two-year suspended sentence for Pallot, and two years, with a one year suspended sentence, for Desnoues. Both could be banned from their trade for five years. Their verdicts are expected on 11 June.

 

If the court of Pontoise, near Versailles, follows the submissions then neither of the accused, who spent five months in pre-trial detention, would go back to prison. The prosecutor has asked for heavy fines: €300,000 for Pallot and €100,000 for Desnoues, plus the confiscation of €200,000 found in cash in his bank safe. Pallot also risks the seizure of his Paris apartment on Avenue Marceau, valued at more than €1.5m. He has already had to sell around 900 objects from his eclectic collection at auction to cover a €1.8m fiscal adjustment.

 

But the heaviest fine—€700,000—was requested for the prestigious Galerie Kraemer, which sold four of the fake seats. In one case, the gallery sold to Prince Al Thani a pair of chairs for €2m, which it had purchased for €200,000; the collector was refunded. Supposedly commissioned by Queen Marie Antoinette, the pair had been classified by the French state as a “national treasure”, at the request of the Château de Versailles, which had considered buying them. The prosecutor asked for a one-year suspended prison sentence against Laurent Kraemer for “negligence” in his expertise and the making of false provenances.

 

Kraemer, who is also charged in another procedure for a series of allegedly fake Louis XIV furniture, said he was convinced that the seats sold by his company were genuine. “He is a victim of the fraud, not an accomplice,” his lawyer Martin Reynaud stated, insisting that he never had direct contact with the forgers, who were hiding behind a middleman, Guillaume Dillée. A close friend of Pallot, this expert fled to Australia and was not summoned in court, nor was Sotheby’s expert Patrick Leperlier.

 

The scam was discovered when a delivery driver was arrested after his investment of more than €1m in real estate in France and Portugal was flagged by the authorities. He confessed to acting as a middleman for Desnoues, who, when pressed to explain his hidden incomes, confessed to the forgeries.

 

Pallot was the world’s leading specialist of royal seats, and in charge of antique furniture at the Galerie Didier Aaron. He was a distinguished professor at the École du Louvre and the Sorbonne and a scholar who curators would question if they had a doubts about a royal armchair. “I was the head and Desnoues was the hands,” he told the court. Desnoues was the main restorer of Versailles furniture and was even invited to make a copy of Louis XVI’s bed for the royal apartment.

 

There is no way the curators could have guessed such diabolic forgeries

Corinne Hershkovitch, lawyer

 

Pallot told the court that their scam started in 2007 as “a joke”, a challenge to see if they could dupe the best experts. “It went like a breeze,” he said, adding: “Everything was fake but the money.” As the seats were mostly sold through his middleman, he claimed he personally never “intended to cheat the palace of Versailles”. However, Corinne Hershkovitch, the lawyer for Versailles, accused him of having “trapped the château by making seats which were missing in the royal apartments”. She tells The Art Newspaper: “There was no way the curators could have guessed such diabolic forgeries made by these brilliant experts, who were at the top of their trade.”


Wednesday, 11 June 2025

THE GREAT "PREPPY" REVOLUTION ... BIG FUSS ABOUT NOTHING IN THE "W.A.S.P." UNIVERSUM




Lately the Preppy World and the Wasp Universum have been very excited and nervous ... after the reedition of the mythic "Take Ivy" in English and the edition of the new "Preppy Handbook / True Preppy" by Lisa Birnbach, now, a new Ivy League-Preppy-WASP "Guide"is published by two British Authors: "The Ivy Look".

Studying the Preppy look and its reference points
Jul 25, 2010



NEW YORK - JUST like European currency, European men's wear has been in the dumps lately.
Suddenly all that rigorous, over-designed and unwearable stuff cranked out by Raf Simons and his ilk seems as inadvertently retro as a Eurail Pass.
American style, on the other hand, is staging a comeback, belaying itself hand-over-hand out of the crevasse it fell into a decade ago, just as spunky Tommy Hilfiger and the sturdy little American dollar seem to have done.
Signs of this are visible not only in the brisk business Ralph Lauren's new restaurant in Paris is doing selling le hamburger to the French (whose not-so-secret secret for staying slender, if you will forgive the digression, is cigarettes: in Paris even dogs and infants smoke) or even in the flurry of prepublication attention generated by 'True Prep: It's a Whole New World,' the follow-up to the best-seller 'The Official Preppy Handbook,' published in 1980.
Since last year, when, as David Colman noted in these pages, a new age dawned of label-archaeology, designers have been relentlessly scouring the back pages of American sportswear for all things homegrown - the more obscure, hand-crafted, fuddy-duddy and arcane the better.
Ray-Bans were suddenly on a list of Old School must-haves and so were wool vests from the Filson, and Red Wing boots and Alden loafers and Gitman oxford cloth shirts and Sperry Top-Siders and Quoddy moccasins.
Designers as varied as Thom Browne, Scott Sternberg of Band of Outsiders, Billy Reid and Frank Muytjens of J. Crew all made hay with the conservative classics.
The style became so ubiquitous that, the designer Michael Bastian said, 'The whole preppy machine requires a recalibration.' It has become 'a reference to a reference,' Bastian added.
And, as it happens, few in the fashion business would have much trouble naming the precise source of the numerous fashion 'references' he had in mind.
'Take Ivy,' a slender volume of photographs, commissioned by Kensuke Ishizu, the founder of an Ivy League-inspired clothing line called Van Jacket, was first published in 1965, the yield of a fact-finding trip taken by a Japanese photographer and three writers to Ivy League campuses.
Part style manual for Japanese fans of American 'trad' style and, somewhat inadvertently, an ethnographic study, 'Take Ivy' went on to become, in the decades since publication, the nearly unattainable center of a passionate cult.
People spent years hunting down rare copies. They traded them online for prices that reached into the thousands. They photocopied and distributed them in design studios like fashion samizdat.
'When I first started at J. Press and went to Japan, they had an original copy there and I flipped out,' said Mark McNairy, the designer of New Amsterdam, who formerly worked neo-retro wonders at the venerable label J. Press.
'I got them to photocopy the whole book for me and I used that for a couple years,' he added. 'Then a men's magazine in Japan did a limited reissue and sent me one as a Christmas gift.'
McNairy hoarded that copy until the day his wife wanted a costly new handbag. 'Then I sold it on eBay at the height of when everybody was going crazy for it.'
Time, it develops, has done little to dim the allure of 'Take Ivy,' with its guileless snapshots of handsome, fit and presumably bright young lugs disporting themselves in dining halls, on the College Green at Dartmouth, along Nassau Street in Princeton and in Harvard Yard.
'More influential as a myth or Holy Grail that no one could get their hands on,' than as an actual object of use, according to Bastian, 'Take Ivy' nevertheless once occupied a treasured position on his assistant's desk when that particular designer was toiling for Ralph Lauren.
'He used to have a pack of Xeroxes and was one of those people who passed 'Take Ivy' around in back alleys for a long time.'
Not long after the blogger John Tinseth scanned the book and posted the pages on his site, The Trad, a slew of new collections suddenly appeared with 'Take Ivy' as their 'inspiration.'
In Tokihito Yoshida's spring 2011 collection for Woolrich Woolen Mills, the designer was, he said, 'oddly influenced by the work of forward thinking Japanese photographer, T. Hayashida,' and the book.
Starting next week it anyone with $24.95 will be able to experience the 'odd' influence of 'Take Ivy' when, for the first time in 45 years, the book is reprinted (powerhouse Books) with an English language text.
Not surprisingly that text, indecipherable to any but Japanese readers all these years, is equally awed and bemused by the folkways of idealized Ivy Leaguers with 'their sound minds and bodies,' their letter-sweaters and their leafy, cloistered campuses still dominated in those chummy sex-segregated days by men.
'Men's clothing in Japan in those days was very wannabe,' Hajime Hasegawa, one of the book's authors, said last week by telephone from Japan.
Explaining why it was that the owners of Van Jacket sent three writers and the photographer Teruyoshi Hayashida on a fact-finding tour of Eastern college campuses, Hasegawa explained: 'Men in Japan were just drab clones of each other in the postwar period. The US was the big thing, the big ideal.'
The team took 'tens of thousands' of pictures, Hasegawa said, of handsome young Ivy League men in slim-fitting flat front khakis, madras Bermuda shorts, anoraks, blue button-down Oxford cloth shirts and ... well, essentially all the stuff you'd see in a current J. Crew catalogue.
'I was always obsessed with that book,' said Muytjens, creative director of J. Crew, which will sell 'Take Ivy' in both limited and mass market editions at its men's wear stores. 'Even though it is old hat now for people in the design world, it is so completely valid, still.'
What, after all, is the appeal of 'Take Ivy,' sartorial or otherwise? Is it just nostalgia?
Is it the vision of a bygone world populated by young men who, as the writer Malcolm Gladwell once noted, were sometimes selected by admissions officers as much on the basis of patrician beauty as an elevated IQ?
Is it the fantasy of upper-class belonging, the one Ralph Lauren has parlayed into a multibillion-dollar empire?
'The reality is the people in that book at that time went to schools and belonged to clubs that most ordinary people couldn't get into,' said Lisa Birnbach, an author of 'The Official Preppy Handbook' and 'True Prep.'
''Take Ivy,'' Birnbach said, is a ruling class 'look book,' a template for any budding Jay Gatsby.
Of course the preppy look now signifies little in terms of class.
Everybody's a preppy when all it takes now to achieve the appearance of having descended from generations of Groton men is a flipped collar, a pair of Top-Siders and checkered shorts.
'It's just fashion now,' Birnbach said. ''Take Ivy' and I are guilty for having ruined it all.' -- AP









Tuesday, 10 June 2025

As "Preppy" as you can get ....vineyard vines /The Official Preppy Handbook / VIDEO:Every Day Should Feel This Good | vineyard vines






 https://global.vineyardvines.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-Vineyard-Vines-Site


Vineyard Vines is an American clothing and accessory retailer founded in 1998 in Martha's Vineyard, Massachusetts, by brothers Shep and Ian Murray. The brand markets upper market ties, hats, belts, shirts, shorts, swimwear, bags for men, women, and children. It has grown to a collection of retail stores and outlets across the United States.The company's main logo is a pink whale. Their clothing is considered preppy and southern styled.
Shep and Ian Murray grew up in Greenwich, Connecticut and spent their summers on Martha's Vineyard, where they were introduced to the coastal lifestyle of sailing, fishing, and boating. The two brothers originally held jobs in New York City, but soon grew tired of the corporate lifestyle. Ian claims the duo "traded in [their] business suits for bathing suits" and “started making neckties so [they] didn’t have to wear them.” Before quitting their jobs, the two brothers opened credit cards so they could buy silk and launch vineyard vines. The company's entire startup capital was raised from the brothers' accrued credit card debt. Shep and Ian sold their neckties on Martha's Vineyard, selling out of a backpack from their boat or Jeep rather than a storefront. Initially, they offered four different styles of ties. After they sold 800 ties on a single weekend in July, Shep and Ian quickly re-ordered more, paid off their accrued debt, and moved into a new office. The Murray brothers claim that the business was founded through a philosophy of "living the good life," which is reflected by their slogan "Every day should feel this good." Shep Murray claims his goal is to be "a cross between Warren Buffett and Jimmy Buffett" in building the "lifestyle brand" he founded. Vineyard Vines is still owned outright by the two Murray brothers.
Since the summer of 1998, the Vineyard Vines company has expanded nationally, particularly along the East Coast. Vineyard Vines has opened numerous company, outlet, and retail stores. In addition to these traditional channels, Vineyard Vines has expanded its sales to online shoppers. The company manufactures licensed NFL and MLB product, which it sells through its retail channels. Vineyard Vines also manufactures licensed college apparel, which is sold primarily through campus stores. Vineyard Vines was placed on Inc. magazine's list of the 5000 fastest-growing businesses in the U.S. in 2007. Between 2004 and 2007, the relatively new company's revenue tripled.[5] In 2015 the company inaugurated a new headquarters in Stamford, Connecticut.In January 2018, sportscaster Jim Nantz announced a partnership with Vineyard Vines to create a golf-oriented lifestyle clothing line set to launch in spring 2019.
The first stores were opened in Northeastern locations associated with the sea such as Martha's Vineyard. The first was in Edgartown, Martha's Vineyard, followed by Greenwich, Connecticut. The company has expanded to more than 59 stores as well as 15 outlet locations across the U.S. states.






The Official Preppy Handbook (1980) is a tongue-in-cheek humor reference guide edited by Lisa Birnbach, written by Jonathan Roberts, Carol McD. Wallace, Mason Wiley, and Birnbach. It discusses an aspect of North American culture described as prepdom. In addition to insights on prep school and university life at socially acceptable schools, it illuminates many aspects of the conservative upper middle class, old money WASP society. Topics range from appropriate clothing for social events to choosing the correct college and major.

The book addresses "preppy" life from birth to old age, lending understanding to the cultural aspects of "preppy" life. In general, elementary and secondary school, college, and the young adult years receive the most attention. Coverage lessens during the book's latter chapters.The book was first published in 1980 by Workman Publishing.

The Official Preppy Handbook explains and satirizes what it takes to be a preppy person in the 1980s, parodying the lifestyle of the WASP elite. Birnbach reveals through an ironic tone where preps go to school, where they summer, what brands they wear, and how they decorate their homes. Birnbach divides The Official Preppy Handbook into 7 sections, each devoted to a different period of the preppy lifestyle. The Handbook begins by caricaturizing the childhood of a preppy person in 1980. Lisa Birnbach satirizes a prep’s ideal family lifestyle, and humorously advises readers how to pick, interview, and gain acceptance into a prep school.The book then wittily discusses “the best years of your life”- a prep’s college years.[7] With tongue in cheek, Birnbach elucidates which college courses to take, how to design one’s dorm room, and how to party at college. In Chapters 5 and 6, the book explains the prep adult life as first a “young executive”, and later as a retired adult in “the Country Club Years”. Birnbach jokingly educates readers on navigating a cocktail party, networking, and vacationing. The Official Preppy Handbook also teaches readers how to dress preppy. In chapter 4, Birnbach emphasizes the importance of appearing effortless, preppy and casual, writing, “socks are frequently not worn on sporting occasions or on social occasions for that matter. This provides a year round beachside look that is so desirable that comfort may be thrown aside”.By teaching readers on where to shop, what to wear, and “the merits of pink and green”, Birnbach makes preppy culture attainable to anyone – contrary to the popular belief that one needs to be born into a preppy lifestyle, she makes prepdom something anyone can cultivate.


The book's reflections on young urban professional culture inspired Arthur Cinader, the founder of the J. Crew clothing line. Cinader hoped to capitalize on the book's success.

The book also represented a resurgence of interest in preppy culture that aided the growth of retailer L.L. Bean, which the book describes as "nothing less than Prep mecca." The book's exposé of university life and the drug and sex culture at various schools had a significant impact on public thought about those schools. The book spawned many other "official" handbooks for other American subcultures.

The Handbook exposed preppy culture to the masses, and helped to democratize the preppy subculture. Prior to the book, primarily only wealthy WASP elites adopted the preppy subculture. From the 1920s, WASPs dominated American universities, and preppy fashion was traditionally worn on university campuses. However, as universities became less exclusive as a result of economic and cultural shifts, preppiness as a subculture became less exclusive. Preppy fashion adopted new nuances, and preppy culture has become more inclusive. By writing The Official Preppy Handbook, Lisa Birnbach helps to further democratize preppy fashion and culture. Birnbach explains in her introduction that the handbook is not intended as an exclusive text describing preppiness as subculture reserved for “an elite minority lucky enough to attend prestigious private schools”. Rather, the Handbook was written as a guidepost for the revival of the preppy style. It shared the secrets of the preppy code, making preppy seem “neat, attractive, and suddenly attainable”.







Sunday, 8 June 2025

Rivay is New York's Best Kept Secret


https://www.rivaynyc.com/

 

Welcome to Rivay

Rivay is the shared vision of husband and wife founders Jon Ruti & Katie Boiano. Our design ethos is simple; to elevate classic military and workwear styles with luxurious fabrics, thoughtful details and European craftmanship. We're here to bring a timeless, durable style that gets better with age. On behalf of both of us, welcome to the brand. We're happy you found us.

 



The Rivay Men's Shop

Located just 45 miles north of NYC in the heart of Bedford Village, New York, our first retail location carries our seasonal collection, vintage collectibles, books, Alden shoes and more.

633 Old Post Road | Bedford, NY 10506

914.600.8767

 Monday & Tuesday: By appointment only | Wednesday - Saturday: 11 A.M. - 5 P.M. | Sunday: 12-4 P.M.


Saturday, 7 June 2025

In Search of Anyplace but the ‘Most Charming Village in France’

 



In Search of Anyplace but the ‘Most Charming Village in France’

 

The novelist Joyce Maynard’s four-day road trip in the south of France was guided by pure spontaneity, which is how she ended up in “Le Love Room.”

 

Illustration Credit...Victoria Tentler-Krylov

By Joyce Maynard

June 2, 2025

https://www.nytimes.com/2025/06/02/travel/france-road-trip-joyce-maynard.html

 

I was finishing up a monthlong book tour in France, taking a train to a different city every night — many of them ones I’d never visited. Those 28 nights had revealed how much there was to discover in France beyond the endless allure of Paris.

 

Four free days remained before my return to the United States, so I hatched a plan to rent a car and take a road trip through the south of France, with no itinerary. Though my initial concept was to travel alone, I learned that Stephen, an old friend, was in France, too, wrapping up a professional obligation of his own in Marseille. I suggested we share an adventure. His wife, who hadn’t come along for the trip, was also a good friend, and no awkward hint of romance existed in this plan of ours.

 

It was “Two for the Road,” minus the love angle.

 

‘Not a Plan in Our Heads’

We picked up the car in Nice. A French friend suggested we start out in Èze, a nearby village celebrated for its beauty and charm. “Everyone loves Èze,” she told me.

 

Everyone but us. What we found was far from a hidden gem. The village was lovely, but the parade of tourists filing through the winding streets lined with shops selling soap and dish towels made it clear we’d come to the wrong place. “From now on,” I told Stephen, “let’s steer clear of anyplace labeled Most Charming French Village Ever.”

 

We headed north, not a plan in our heads. We sought small moments rather than important landmarks — great food that didn’t cost much, unexpected discoveries. I wanted to feel like a character in a French movie, I told Stephen, failing to specify what kind.

 

We headed north. Around lunchtime, I spotted a handmade sign, “Fromage,” outside a farmhouse with goats grazing around it. The young woman inside, who looked as though she’d stepped out of a Marcel Pagnol film, brought out a selection of chèvre. Was there a place nearby to buy bread? I asked. She pointed to a dirt road on which cows were ambling. “Pas loin,” she told me. Not far. Happily, I didn’t hear a word of English in the village she directed us to.

 

We then drove north to a spot known as the Gorges du Verdon, with a winding river between steep cliffs, and an impressive population of birds. For around 9 euros, or about $10, we rented a paddle boat, took a swim and nearly polished off our cheese and bread.

 

“What do you say we check out the Côte d’Azur?” Stephen suggested. Who was I to argue?

 

At a town called Villefranche-sur-Mer, we went looking for the Cocteau Chapel, featuring a series of frescoes painted by Jean Cocteau, the avant-garde artist. Finding it closed, we swam near the little quay nearby.

 

Then we rolled along — back roads whenever possible, a soundtrack of French cabaret music from Stephen’s iPhone — Georges Brassens, Edith Piaf, Dalida. Never a smoker, I wished I at least had a cigarette holder — but I settled for figs we’d picked up at a roadside market, so ripe they exploded in my hand when I reached for one, and the last of our goat cheese.

 

A good road trip demands an absence of plans, and we had none. Somewhere around 6 p.m., we consulted our phones for an Airbnb. In the past, I might have spent hours searching for the perfect spot, but for once, I didn’t care. The place we found was basic but that was fine.

 

A Dozen Oysters

Next morning, we wandered into a village whose market day was underway. For about 10 euros I bought a dozen oysters, along with a glass of Muscadet. The man behind the stand — Alain — handed me my plate with a flourish and the words “vive la France.”

 

In my long life of seeking out fresh oysters, these may have been the best. If, at that moment, Alain had suggested I run away to harvest shellfish with him, I would have given the offer some thought. He started singing to me as he shucked my second dozen. Stephen pointed to his watch.

 

Sometimes, over the course of our wanderings, we’d formulate a plan and then abandon it. I wanted to visit a magical series of inlets known as the Calanques, but when we got to Cassis, where the route began, we opted for a swim and a nap on the rocks instead.

 

We found time for a quick stop in Marseille for a trip to the oldest hardware store in France, Maison Empereur. I longed to buy vintage lightbulbs, clogs, cast iron for cooking cassoulet, but settled for a feather duster, a pink hot water bottle and a box of French jokes.

 

It was late afternoon by the time we left Marseille. As was our style, we ventured off the highway and found ourselves heading down a one-way street roughly eight inches wider than our car.

 

Times travel coverage. When our writers review a destination, they do not accept free or discounted services or, in most cases, reveal that they work for The Times. We want their experience to be what you can expect.

 

Here’s more on our standards and practices.

We might have made it through, but a Fiat was blocking us. We assessed our options. Only one made sense. I started knocking on doors, inquiring whether anyone knew the owner of the green Fiat.

 

We found her, though not before every household on the street got involved. The Fiat owner ran down to the street, followed by a small barking dog, and moved the car enough that we could just make it through. In gratitude, I gave her the bag with the last of our precious figs.

 

Le Love Room

On our last afternoon, we pulled into Fayence, on the Côte d’Azur, a town of about 6,000. The name conjured images of china often featured in still lifes and kitchen scenes by Pierre Bonnard.

Though I didn’t spot a single china shop, there were no tourists either, and the town was charming — with flowers spilling over the parapets of centuries-old stone houses and rolling fields below, where some character played by Jean Gabin might have been toiling in a field, a donkey at his side.

 

Only a single Airbnb listing existed for the town — a space quaintly named Le Love Room. After booking it, Stephen suggested a meal. Only one restaurant was open — a pretty little bistro called Les Temps des Cerises (the time of cherries).

 

Within 15 minutes, every table was filled with local couples and families. Our waiter greeted them warmly, brought out a blackboard with the night’s offerings, then took our orders: house wine, foie gras prepared with Calvados, coq au vin — a classic French dinner, flawlessly prepared.

 

It was not fully dark as we made our way on foot to our lodgings. We passed an old woman leaning out her second-story window, next to her cat. Smiling, she called out a greeting. We called back.

 

Our Airbnb was in a very old stone building. We climbed the steep, narrow stairs to the door of Le Love Room.

Friday, 6 June 2025

The Birkin bag by Hermès / VÍDEO: How to Authenticate Hermès Birkin Bags (Secret Vintage Collection)




The Birkin bag is a personal accessory of luggage or a tote by Hermès that is handmade in leather and named after actress and singer Jane Birkin. The bag is currently in fashion as a symbol of wealth due to its high price and use by celebrities.

Its prices range from £7,500 to £100,000 (US$11,550 to US$150,000). Costs escalate according to the type of leather and if exotic skins were used. The bags are distributed to Hermès boutiques on unpredictable schedules and in limited quantities, creating artificial scarcity and exclusivity. Small versions (25 cm) may be considered a handbag or purse.

In 1981, Hermès chief executive Jean-Louis Dumas was seated next to Jane Birkin on a flight from Paris to London. She had just placed her straw travelling bag in the overhead compartment for her seat, but the contents fell to the deck, leaving her to scramble to replace them. Birkin explained to Dumas that it had been difficult to find a leather weekend bag she liked.

In 1984, he created a black supple leather bag for her, based on a 1982 design. She used the bag initially, but changed her mind because she was carrying too many things in it: “What’s the use of having a second one?” she said laughingly. “You only need one and that busts your arm; they’re bloody heavy. I’m going to have to have an operation for tendonitis in the shoulder." Nevertheless, since that time, the bag has become a status symbol.

In an August 2015 New York Times article and its accompanying style feature video by Bill Cunningham a moulded rubber bag bearing the same style seemed to have become ubiquitous in Manhattan, along with examples of the authentic ones. A significantly lower cost was reported for the rubber totes, being comparable to typical leather handbags.
Design

Birkin bags are sold in a range of sizes. Each one may be made to order with different customer-chosen hides, colour, and hardware fixtures. There are other individual options, such as diamond-encrusting.

The bag also comes in a variety of hides such as calf leather, lizard, and ostrich. Among the most expensive used to be saltwater crocodile skin and bags with smaller scales cost more than those with larger scales. In 2015, however, Jane Birkin asked Hermès to stop using her name for the crocodile version due to ethical concerns. Each bag is lined with goat-skin, the colour of the interior matching the exterior. Prices for the Birkin bag depend on type of skin, the colour, and hardware fixtures.[8]
Sizes range from 25-, 30-, 35-, to 40-centimeters, with travelling bags of 50- and 55-centimeters. It also comes in a variety of colours such as black, brown, golden tan, navy blue, olive green, orange, pink, powder blue, red, and white.

* The bag has a lock and keys. The keys are enclosed in a leather lanyard known as a clochette, carried by looping it through a handle. The bag is locked by closing the top flaps over buckle loops, wrapping the buckle straps, or closing the lock on the front hardware. Locks and keys are number-coded. Early locks only bore one number on the bottom of the lock. In more recent years, Hermès has added a second number under the Hermes stamp of the lock. The numbers for locks may be the same for hundreds of locks, as they are batch numbers in which the locks were made.

The metallic hardware (the lock, keys, buckle hardware, and base studs) are plated with gold or palladium to prevent tarnishing. Hardware is updated regularly to maintain the quality available in the industry at time of production. The metal lock may be covered with leather as a custom option. Detailing with diamonds is another custom option.

Hermès offers a "spa treatment" – a reconditioning for heavily-used bags.
A "Shooting Star" Birkin has a metallic image resembling a shooting star, stamped adjacent to the "Hermès, Paris Made in France" stamp, that is in gold or silver to match the hardware and embossing. Rarely, the stamp is blind or colourless, if the bag is made of one or two leathers onto which no metallic stamping is used. Sometimes, Birkins or other Hermès bags may be made by independent artisans for "personal use", but only once a year. Every bag bears the stamp of the artisan who made the bag. These identifications vary widely, but are not different for every bag made. Finding stamps of more than one artisan on a bag occurs because the stamp is not a serial reference. Fonts and the order of stamping may vary, depending on the artisans.
The Birkin bag may be distinguished from the similar Hermès Kelly handbag by the number of its handles. The single-handle handbag is the Kelly, but the Birkin has two handles.

The bags are handmade in France by expert artisans. The company's signature saddle stitching, developed in the 1800s, is another distinctive feature.

Each bag is hand-sewn, buffed, painted, and polished, taking several days to finish. An average bag is created in 48 hours. Leathers are obtained from different tanners in France, resulting in varying smells and textures. Because of varying individual skills, other details of the bags may not match with other bags. The company justifies the cost of the Birkin bag, compared to other bags, based on the meticulous craftsmanship and scarcity.


According to a 2014 estimate, Hermès produced 70,000 Birkin bags that year. The bag is highly coveted and, for several years, was reputed to have a waiting list of up to six years. The rarity of these bags are purportedly designed to increase demand by collectors.

As a result of the strong demand, the Birkin bag has a high resale value in many countries, especially in Asia, and to such an extent that the bag is considered by some people as an instrument of investment. One 2016 study found that Birkin bags had average annual returns of 14.2% between 1980 and 2015, significantly beating the S&P 500 Index. In April 2010, Hermès announced that the waiting list would no longer exist, implying that it is potentially available to all.

The Philippine Star reported in March 2013, that a very high-end, 30-cm Shiny Rouge H Porosus Crocodile Birkin with 18K gold fittings and encrusted with diamonds fetched US$203,150 at an auction in Dallas, Texas.

In her memoir, The Primates of Park Avenue, author Wednesday Martin recounts how Birkin bags signal social class status on the Upper East Side.

 

Hermès and Jane Birkin resolve spat over crocodile handbags

Actor withdrew name from product after Peta video showed cruelty at slaughter farm, which French luxury fashion house says was isolated incident

Angelique Chrisafis in Paris
Friday 11 September 2015 18.49 BST

In the moneyed and cut-throat world of French luxury goods, no brand dares lose a glamorous ambassador in a public spat over a handbag. So it was with relief that the fashion house Hermès announced on Friday it had patched things up with the actor and singer Jane Birkin, following a row over animal rights.

In July, Birkin had demanded Hermès remove her name from its Birkin Croco bag after learning of “cruel practices” used against crocodiles in its production. She had been moved to act after seeing a video released by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, showing how live reptiles were skinned or sawed open on farms that supplied luxury brands.

On Friday, however, the French leather-goods firm said it had identified an “isolated irregularity” in the slaughter process at a crocodile farm in Texas and had warned the farm it would cease any relations should it continue to neglect its recommended procedures.

“Jane Birkin has advised us that she is satisfied by the measures taken by Hermès,” the company added.

Birkin’s public takedown of Hermès over the Birkin Croco – one of the world’s most expensive and sought-after handbags – had been a fashion world embarrassment.

Birkin is still hugely popular in France, where she arrived in the 1960s as a 21-year-old, awkwardly shy, home counties English rose and shot to fame singing the the 1969 heavy-breathing melody Je T’aime Moi Non Plus with her partner, Serge Gainsbourg, France’s biggest rock star, poet and provocateur.

The story of the chance invention of the Hermès Birkin bag had long been one of the cleverest marketing narratives in the luxury goods world, providing a human touch often missing from sleek leather products.

In the 1980s, so the tale goes, Birkin had been upgraded on an Air France flight and was fiddling with the contents that had fallen out of a mundane handbag, two days after her then-husband, Jacques Doillon, had reversed his car over the cherished basket she used to carry as well, “crushing it on purpose”.

When the passenger sat next to her suggested she needed a bag with pockets, she said: “The day Hermès makes one with pockets I will have that.” He turned out to be the Hermès chief executive and they came up with a design together on the back of a sick bag, in exchange for the use of her name.

Hermès prides itself on its reputation. The company is one of the world’s last high-end labels to remain independent, defiantly resisting conglomerates and what it scathingly calls “mass-market techniques”. It is still controlled by various branches of the family descended from the saddlemaker who founded the firm in 1837.

Its status and traditional production methods – each bag is made by hand in France by one artisan devoted entirely to that piece – have seen it boost sales and weather various financial crises that have shaken other parts of the luxury goods market.

The Birkin Croco – with a starting retail price of more than €20,000 (£14,700) – and its cousin, the Kelly, named after actress Grace Kelly, are among the most sought-after luxury goods in the world.

Birkin bags comes in all types of materials, from leather to ostrich skin, and Hermès produces fewer than there is demand for, creating waiting lists that have seemingly made celebrities from Victoria Beckham to the Kardashians, even keener to acquire their own and be photographed carrying one.