Tuesday, 25 November 2025
Monday, 24 November 2025
Sunday, 23 November 2025
REMEMBERING 2016 / Message from Jeeves / Revista DOZE. / 2016.
Revista DOZE , published an article / profile , kindly giving me the opportunity to express my views and definitions around aesthetics, style , the principles of my garderobe and its connection with the decor of my interiors, the fundamental differences between the Gentleman and the Dandy, enfin, my aesthetic philosophy of Life and its role in the great mystery of Existence.
PHOTOS: Michael Floor.
Saturday, 22 November 2025
Friday, 21 November 2025
Thursday, 20 November 2025
Wednesday, 19 November 2025
Tuesday, 18 November 2025
Secrets of the Manor House - Part 1/4
Secrets
of the Manor House: Recap and Review
January
22, 2012 by Vic
https://janeaustensworld.com/2012/01/22/secrets-of-the-manor-house-recap-and-review/
This
Sunday, PBS will air on most stations an hour presentation of Secrets of the Manor House, a documentary
narrated by Samuel West, that explains how society was transformed in the years
leading up to World War One. Expert historians, such as Lawrence James and Dr.
Elisabeth Kehoe, discuss what life was like in these houses, explain the
hierarchy of the British establishment, and provide historical and social
context for viewers. For American viewers of Downton Abbey, this special
couldn’t have come at a better time.
The British manor house represented a world of privilege,
grace, dignity and power.
For their
services for the King in war, soldiers were awarded lands and titles. The
aristocracy rose from a warrior class.
This
world was inhabited by an elite class of people who were descended from a line
of professional fighting men, whose titles and land were bestowed on them by a
grateful king.
Manderston
House, Berwickshire.
For over
a thousand years, aristocrats viewed themselves as a race apart, their power
and wealth predicated on titles, landed wealth, and political standing.
Vast
landed estates were their domain, where a strict hierarchy of class was
followed above stairs as well as below it. In 1912, 1 ½ million servants tended
to the needs of their masters. As many as 100 would be employed as butler,
housekeeper, house maids, kitchen maids, footmen, valets, cooks, grooms,
chauffeurs, forestry men, and agricultural workers. Tradition kept everyone in
line, and deference and obedience to your betters were expected (and given).
22 staff
were required to run Manderston House, which employed 100 servants, many of
whom worked in the gardens, fields, and forests.
As a new
century began, the divide between rich and poor was tremendous. While the rich
threw more extravagant parties and lived lavish lives, the poor were doomed to
live lives of servitude and hard work.
Manderston
House in Berwickshire represents the excesses of its time. The great house
consists of 109 rooms, and employed 98 servants just before the outbreak of
World War One. Twenty two servants worked inside the house to tend to Lord
Palmer and his family. Every room inside the house interconnected.
The
curtains and drapes, woven with gold and silver thread, were made in Paris in
1904 and cost the equivalent of 1.5 million dollars. Manderston House itself
was renovated at the turn of the century for 20 million dollars in today’s
money. This was during an era when scullery maids earned the equivalent of $50
per year.
The
servant hall boasted 56 bells, each of a different size that produced a unique
ring tone. Servants were expected to memorize the sound for the areas that were
under their responsibility.
Scullery
maids were placed at the bottom of the servant hierarchy. They rose before dawn
to start the kitchen fires and put water on to boil. Their job was to scrub the
pots, pans and dishes, and floors, and even wait on other servants.
Life was
not a bed of roses for the working class and the gulf between the rich and poor
could not have been wider than during the turn of the 21st century.
Thoroughbred
horses lived better than the working classes.
While the
servants slept in the attic or basement, thoroughbred horses were housed in
expensively designed stable blocks. As many as 16 grooms worked in the stables,
for no expense was spared in tending to their needs.
The
stables at Manderston House required 16 grooms to feed, care for, and exercise
the horses.
As men
and women worked long hours, as much as 17-18 hours per day, the rich during
the Edwardian era lived extravagant, indulgent lives of relaxation and
pleasure, attending endless rounds of balls, shooting parties, race meetings,
and dinner parties.
Up to the
moment that war was declared, the upper classes lived as if their privileged
lives would never change.
The
Edwardian era marked the last great gasp of manor house living with its
opportunities of providing endless pleasure. For the working class and poor,
the inequities within the system became more and more apparent. The landed rich
possessed over one half of the land. Their power was rooted in owning land, for
people who lived on the land paid rent. The landed gentry also received income
from investments, rich mineral deposits
on their land, timber, vegetables grown in their fields, and animals shipped to
market.
The lord
of the manor and his steward can be seen walking among the farm laborers, many
of whom were
women.
The need
to keep country estates intact and perpetuate a family’s power was so important
that the eldest son inherited everything – the estate, title, all the houses,
jewels, furnishings, and art. The laws of primogeniture ensured that country
estates would not be whittled away over succeeding generations. In order to
consolidate power, everything (or as much as possible) was preserved.
Entailment, a law that went back to the 13th century, ensured that portions of
an estate could not be sold off.
The
system was rigged to favor the rich. Only men who owned land could vote, and
hereditary peers were automatically given a seat in the House of Lords. By
inviting powerful guests to their country estates, they could lobby for their
special interests across a dinner table, at a shoot, or at a men’s club.
Thoroughbred
horses were valued for their breeding and valor, traits that aristocrats
identified with.
The
Industrial Revolution brought about changes in agricultural practices and
inventions that presaged the decline of aristocratic wealth. Agricultural
revenues, the basis on which landed wealth in the UK was founded, were in
decline. Due to better transportation and refrigeration, grain transported from
Australia and the U.S. became cheaper to purchase. Individuals were able to
build wealth in other ways – as bankers and financiers. While the landed gentry
could still tap resources from their lands and expand into the colonies, the
empire too began to crumble with the rise of nationalism and nation states.
The
servant hierarchy echoed the distinctions of class upstairs. The chef worked at
the end of the table on the left, while the lowest ranking kitchen maids
chopped vegetables at the far right. The kitchen staff worked 17 hours a day
and rarely left the kitchen.
Contrasted
with the opulent life above stairs was an endless life of drudgery below
stairs. On a large estate that entertained visitors, over 100 meals were
prepared daily. Servants rose at dawn and had to stay up until the last guest
went to bed. Kitchen maids, who made the equivalent of 28 dollars per year,
rarely strayed outside the kitchen.
One bath
required 45 gallons of water, which had to be hauled by hand up steep, narrow
stairs. At times, a dozen guests might take baths on the same day. House maids
worked quietly and unseen all over the manor house. The were expected to move
from room to room using their own staircases and corridors. Underground tunnels
allowed servants to move unseen crossing courtyards.
Maids and
footmen lived in their own quarters in the attic or basement. Men were
separated from the women and were expected to use different stairs. Discipline
was strict. Servants could be dismissed without notice for the most minor
infraction.
Footmen
tended to be young, tall, and good looking.
Footmen,
whose livery cost more than their yearly salary, were status symbols. Chosen
for their height and looks, they were the only servants allowed to assist the
butler at dinner table. These men were the only servants allowed upstairs.
Green
baize doors separated the servants quarters from the master's domain.
Green
baize doors were special doors that marked the end of the servants quarters and
hid the smells of cooking and noises of the servants from the family.
The
Jerome sisters were (l to r) Jennie, Clara, and Leonie
As
revenues from agriculture dwindled, the upper classes searched for a new
infusion of capital.This they found in the American heiress, whose fathers had
built up their wealth from trade and transportation. Free from the laws of
primogeniture, these wealthy capitalists distributed their wealth among their
children, sharing it equally among sons and daughters. The ‘Buccaneers,’ as
early American heiresses were called, infused the British estates with wealth.
‘Cash for titles’ brought 60 million dollars into the British upper class
system via 100 transatlantic marriages.
Transatlantic
passages worked both ways, even as American heiresses crossed over to the
U.K., millions of British workers
emigrated to America looking for a better life. The sinking of the Titanic,
just two years before the outbreak of World War One, underscored the pervasive
issue of class.
Most
likely this lifeboat from the Titanic was filled with upper class women and
children. Only 1 in 3 people survived.
The
different social strata were housed according to rank, and it was hard to
ignore that a large percentage of first class women and children survived,
while the majority of third and second class passengers died.
Labor
strikes became common all over the world, including the U.K.
Society
changed as the working class became more assertive and went on strikes. The
Suffragette movement gained momentum. Prime Minister David Lloyd George was a
proponent of reform, even as the aristocracy tried to carry on as before.
Lloyd
George campaigned for progressive causes.
Inventions
revolutionized the work place. Electricity, telephones, the type writer, and
other labor-saving devices threatened jobs in service. A big house could be run
with fewer staff, and by the 1920s a manor house that required 100 servants
needed only 30-40.
Change is
ever present. The last typewriter factory shut its doors in April, 2011.
Women who
would otherwise have gone into service were lured into secretarial jobs, which
had been revolutionized by the telephone and typewriter.
The manor
house set enjoyed one last season in the summer of 1914, just before war began.
Many of the young men who attended those parties would not return from France.
Few expected that this war would last for six months, much less four years.
Officers lost their lives by a greater percentage than ordinary soldiers, and
the casualty lists were filled with the names of aristocratic men and the upper
class.
Over 35
million soldiers and civilians died in World War 1
Common
soldiers who had died by the millions had been unable to vote. Such inequities
did not go unnoticed. Social discontent, noticeable before the war, resulted in
reform – the many changes ushered in modern Britain.
Monday, 17 November 2025
Sunday, 16 November 2025
Saturday, 15 November 2025
Shades of Tartan and Tweed.
I like to combine different shades and colors of
Tartan and Tweed.
By the way, the hacking jacket has the unique superb
texture and cut by Pytchley.
Yours, JEEVES.
Friday, 14 November 2025
Thursday, 13 November 2025
The Prince and the Killer Courtesan - The Story of Marguerite Alibert
Marguerite
Marie Alibert (9 December 1890 – 2 January 1971, also known as Maggie Meller,
Marguerite Laurent, and Princess Fahmy, was a French socialite. She started her
career as a prostitute and later courtesan in Paris, and from 1917 to 1918, she
had an affair with the prince of Wales (later Edward VIII). After her marriage
to Egyptian aristocrat Ali Kamel Fahmy Bey, she was frequently called princess
by the media of the time. In 1923, she killed her husband at the Savoy Hotel in
London. She was eventually acquitted of the murder charge after a trial at the
Old Bailey.
Life
Marguerite
Marie Alibert was born on 9 December 1890[1] in Paris to Firmin Alibert, a
coachman, and Marie Aurand, a housekeeper. At age 16, she gave birth to a
daughter, Raymonde. In the following eight to ten years, Alibert led a nomadic
life until she met Mme Denant, who ran a Maison de Rendezvous, a brothel
catering to a high society clientele. Under the tutelage of Denant, Alibert
became a high-class sex worker.[1][5] Subsequently, Alibert had a number of
notable clients, particularly Edward, Prince of Wales.
She and
Edward first met in April 1917 at the Hôtel de Crillon in Paris. At the time,
he was in France as an officer of the Grenadier Guards in the Western Front
during World War I. Edward became infatuated with her, and during their
relationship, he wrote many candid letters to her. Although the affair was
intense while it lasted, by the end of the war, Edward had ended the
relationship.
Ali Fahmy
Bey
Ali Fahmy
Bey became infatuated with Alibert when he first encountered her in Egypt while
she was escorting a businessman. He saw her again several times in Paris, and
they were eventually formally introduced in July 1922. Following that meeting,
they embarked on a tour of gambling and entertainment establishments in
Deauville, Biarritz, and Paris. Fahmy returned to Egypt, but soon after, he
invited her to the country, feigning illness and telling her that he could not
live without her. They were married in December 1922 and had a formal Islamic
wedding in January 1923.
Killing
of Ali Fahmy
On 1 July
1923, the couple arrived in London for the holidays. They stayed at the Savoy
Hotel with their entourage consisting of a secretary, a valet, and a maid.On 9
July, the couple and the secretary went to see the operetta The Merry
Widow.[7][8] Upon returning to the hotel, they had a late supper where they
started one of their frequent arguments. At 2:30 a.m. on 10 July, Alibert shot
her husband repeatedly from behind, striking him in the neck, back, and
head.[3][1] She used a .32 calibre semi-automatic Browning pistol.The victim
was transported to Charing Cross Hospital but died of his wounds in about an
hour.
Trial
The trial
opened on Monday, 10 September 1923, with many people queuing to enter,
including some who had waited since before daybreak. The trial lasted until
Saturday, 15 September. During the trial, Alibert presented herself as the
victim of the "brutality and beastliness" of her "oriental
husband". Alibert was defended by Edward Marshall Hall, one of the more
famous British lawyers of that era.[3] The trial judge disallowed any mention
of Alibert's past as a courtesan, ensuring that the name of the Prince of Wales
never was mentioned as part of the evidence during the trial. At the same time,
Fahmy was described as "a monster of Eastern depravity and decadence,
whose sexual tastes were indicative of an amoral sadism towards his helpless
European wife". Alibert was acquitted of all charges.
Post-trial
After the
trial, Alibert sued her late husband's family aiming to lay claim to his
property. A court in Egypt rejected the verdict at the Old Bailey and dismissed
her claim. She lived in an apartment facing the Ritz in Paris until the end of
her life. After her death, the few remaining letters from Edward, which she had
kept as insurance, were found and destroyed by a friend.
In
culture
Books
The
killing of Alibert's husband was the focus of the 1991 book, Scandal at the
Savoy: The Infamous 1920s Murder Case by judge and historian Andrew Rose. In
the 2013 follow-on work, The Prince, the Princess and the Perfect Murder,
Andrew Rose revealed — with the help of Alibert's grandson — that the acquittal
of Alibert of the charges of murdering her husband was part of a deal for
returning the love letters of the Prince of Wales to him and a guarantee by
Alibert that Edward's name would not be mentioned in court. Rose stated:
"Really this was a show trial, the authorities wanted Marguerite to be
acquitted. A murder conviction would have been catastrophic for the
Crown."
The story
of Alibert is retold in the 2022 debut novel, The Keeper of Stories by Sally
Page, as told by the character Mrs. B., a former spy, to the keeper of stories,
her cleaner, Janice; Alibert is given the alias Becky. This is clarified in the
Author's Note found on page 375 of the paperback version.
Television
The trial
was dramatised as part of the Granada TV series Lady Killers, broadcast on 20th
July 1980, starring Robert Stephens and Barbara Kellerman.
In 2013,
the UK Channel 4 aired the documentary Edward VIII's Murderous Mistress: Was
there a cover-up of Edward VIII's fling with a murderess?
In
November 2024, Channel 4 broadcast A History of Royal Scandals series 2 episode
4 entitled Crime in which Suzannah Lipscomb discussed Alibert's relationship
with Edward, Prince of Wales, her trial for the shooting of husband Ali Fahmy,
and the influence of authorities to ensure Alibert's acquittal.
Radio
The trial
of Marguerite Alibert for the murder of Ali Fahmy Bey was presented in a 2023
episode of the BBC Radio 4 series Lucy Worsley's Lady Killers.
Wednesday, 12 November 2025
WAS EDWARD VIII REALLY A NAZI, AND HITLER'S WAR BUDDY? 'THE CROWN' SEASON 2 ADDRESSES 'VERGANGENHEIT' / 17 Carnations: The Royals, the Nazis, and the Biggest Cover-Up in History by Andrew Morton / Edward VIII the traitor king - complete documentary
17 Carnations: The Royals, the Nazis, and the Biggest Cover-Up in History
Tuesday, 11 November 2025
Monday, 10 November 2025
Trump’s Vision of a Mar-a-Lago on the Potomac Upends an American Ideal
critic’s
notebook
Trump’s
Vision of a Mar-a-Lago on the Potomac Upends an American Ideal
President
Trump’s “demolish first, ask questions later” approach highlights a tension
involved in a bipartisan desire to streamline the building process.
Michael
Kimmelman
By
Michael Kimmelman
Nov. 8,
2025
https://www.nytimes.com/2025/11/08/arts/design/east-wing-ballroom-trump.html
President
Trump is gunning to be the nation’s redecorator-in-chief.
He gilded
the Oval Office, paved the Rose Garden and held up a grapefruit-size model of
an “Arc de Trump” to face the Lincoln Memorial. In October, he issued “Making
Federal Architecture Beautiful Again,” an executive order reviving a first
Trump term initiative.
Even as
Trump tried to cut food assistance during the shutdown, he showed off the new
marble bathroom he designed for the Lincoln bedroom the other day.
But his
biggest move, provoking bipartisan shock, was unleashing the wrecking balls
without warning on 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue to make room for a behemoth
ballroom.
Republicans
and Democrats don’t see eye to eye about much today. But they seem to agree on
the nation’s need to build things again by cutting through the mountains of red
tape that federal, state and local governments have accrued to offset
unchecked, top-down authority figures from bygone days, like Robert Moses, New
York City’s omnipotent planning czar.
Moses’s
imperial excesses and ruthlessness contributed to a cultural shift in America
during the 1970s. The pendulum swung from the Powers That Be toward People
Power.
Now
President Trump’s “demolish first, ask questions later” approach to the East
Wing highlights the unresolved tension involved in any push to get stuff done
by streamlining checks and balances: How can this be accomplished without
nudging the pendulum too far back in the other direction?
First
saying the ballroom “won’t interfere with the current building,” Mr. Trump in
October suddenly razed the White House East Wing, recalling an incident from
his “Bonfire of the Vanities” days in New York.
In 1979,
Bonwit Teller, the Fifth Avenue department store, was hemorrhaging cash. It put
up for sale its midrise limestone-and-granite home designed by Warren &
Wetmore, the same architects who gave the city Grand Central Terminal.
Mr.
Trump, a 33-year-old real estate developer at the time, bought the building for
$15 million. His plan was to tear it down and erect Trump Tower. Mr. Trump
promised he would save and donate some prized limestone friezes on the facade
that the Metropolitan Museum of Art wanted, if the works could be safely
removed at a reasonable cost.
Then the
jackhammers arrived, unannounced, pulverizing the decorative friezes along with
some intricate Art Deco grillwork and provoking an avalanche of headlines. Mr.
Trump dismissed the criticism, insisting the friezes were worthless, despite
what the Met’s art experts said, and proclaimed the blowback a “fantastic
promotion” for his glassy, gaudy apartment tower.
There was
a footnote to the story. Mr. Trump’s demolition crew, a mix of Polish Americans
and undocumented immigrants, filed suit because of “horrid and terrible”
working conditions. After 15 years of litigation, Mr. Trump paid to settle the
case.
Today, he
has yet to lay out a clear design plan for the capital. He’s tinkering and
trolling. The other day, he instructed federal workers to paint the Kennedy
Center’s gold columns white. That particular shade of gold, Mr. Trump explained
to followers on Truth Social, was “fake looking.” He called the new color he
selected a “luxuriant white enamel.”
A paint
job can always be undone, unlike the East Wing demolition, which upset
preservationists and architectural historians less because the beloved
architecture it destroyed was exceptional — the wing wasn’t Jefferson’s
Monticello — than because it underscored the president’s contempt for precedent
and guardrails.
In
response, Mr. Trump fired members of an independent commission established by
Congress in 1910 to review architectural changes in the capital.
But polls
indicate he may have overstepped.
Americans,
millions of whom harbor fond memories of entering the People’s House on public
tours that started at the East Wing, say they’re unhappy with the demolition.
That includes a majority of independents and many Republicans, according to an
ABC News/Washington Post/Ipsos poll at the end of October, echoing earlier
surveys. It showed 56 percent of Americans oppose the demolition. Only 28
percent support it.
Thomas
Jefferson, Andrew Jackson, Teddy Roosevelt, F.D.R., Kennedy, the list goes on:
Many presidents have taken turns remodeling one or another part of the
presidential grounds, often inciting political backlash. President Harry S.
Truman gutted and rebuilt much of the White House interior during the 1950s.
Today,
the White House may well need a larger ballroom for state dinners. Mr. Trump is
within his rights to replace the East Wing with one, although whether
demolition was required we may never know, because we now have only the word of
Mr. Trump, who called in the bulldozers before independent reviewers could
evaluate the scene.
His
administration has yet to release details for the ballroom. Its rising price
tag has now reached $300 million. The New York Times reported this week that
Senator Richard Blumenthal of Connecticut is looking into undisclosed donations
after the Trump administration promised transparency.
As for
the design, we’ll see if it’s as banal as vague renderings suggest. But to
judge from a model of the proposed White House that the president displayed in
the Oval Office, the project would upend history, giving the lie to an
architectural metaphor that Americans have humble-bragged about for more than
200 years.
It’s part
of American lore that George Washington rebuffed proposals for a presidential
palace. He believed a fledgling democracy shouldn’t emulate Versailles. America
is not an imperial power like Britain. The White House is a representation in
sandstone and brick of an Everyman’s American dream.
Trading
Washington’s idealism for a Mar-a-Lago on the Potomac makes plain that we are
no longer that America — and that we haven’t been for a long time. Staging
state dinners in pop-up tents with portable heaters on the South Lawn, as
presidents have been doing for decades absent a bigger ballroom, played into an
architectural paradigm of a nation of equals.
But who
was it still fooling?
An
immense ballroom will tip the balanced, Neoclassical scales of the White House
toward architectural inequality and gilt. During Mr. Trump’s first term, I
wrote about his earlier executive order, from 2020, which demanded more
traditional, classical styles of architecture for federal buildings.
It
suggested that acanthus leaves and Ionic columns on courthouses and embassies
would better represent the popular taste and will of the American people. But
classicism is, at heart, about compositional poise, rationalism and proportion,
not columns.
For
decades, the United States has exercised its soft power around the world by
constructing diverse works of architecture, modernist and otherwise, which,
good and bad, told the world that America remained committed to innovation and
freedom.
The
Washington that Mr. Trump envisions leaving behind, with its luxuriant white
columns, marbled bathrooms, triumphal arch and giant gilded White House
ballroom, will tell another story about us.
In many
ways, it is who we already are.
A
correction was made on Nov. 8, 2025: An earlier version of this article
misidentified the structure that President Trump’s proposed arch would face. It
is the Lincoln Memorial, not the Jefferson Memorial.
When we
learn of a mistake, we acknowledge it with a correction. If you spot an error,
please let us know at nytnews@nytimes.com.Learn more
Michael
Kimmelman is The Times’s architecture critic and the founder and
editor-at-large of Headway, a team of journalists focused on large global
challenges and paths to progress. He has reported from more than 40 countries
and was previously chief art
































