The Vittoriale degli italiani (The shrine of Italian victories) is a hillside estate in the town of Gardone Riviera overlooking the Garda lake in province of Brescia, Lombardy. It is where the Italian writer Gabriele d'Annunzio lived after his defenestration in 1922 until his death in 1938. The estate consists of the residence of d'Annunzio called the Prioria (priory), an amphitheatre, the protected cruiser Puglia set into a hillside, a boathouse containing the MAS vessel used by D'Annunzio in 1918 and a circular mausoleum. Its grounds are now part of the Grandi Giardini Italiani.
References to the
Vittoriale range from a “monumental citadel” to a “fascist
lunapark”, the site inevitably inheriting the controversy
surrounding its creator.
The house, Villa
Cargnacco, had belonged to the German art historian of the Italian
Renaissance Henry Thode from whom it was confiscated by the Italian
state, including artworks, a collection of books, and a piano which
had belonged to Liszt. d'Annunzio rented it in February 1921 and
within a year reconstruction started under the guidance of architect
Giancarlo Maroni. Due to d'Annunzio's popularity and his disagreement
with the fascist government on several issues, such as the alliance
with Nazi Germany, the fascists did what they could to please
d'Annunzio in order to keep him away from political life in Rome.
Part of their strategy was to make huge funds available to expand the
property, to construct and/or modify buildings, and to create the
impressive art and literature collection. In 1924 the airplane that
d'Annunzio used for his pamphleteering run over Vienna during World
War I was brought to the estate, followed in 1925 by the MAS naval
vessel used by him to taunt the Austrians in 1918 in the Beffa di
Buccari. In the same year the protected cruiser Puglia was hauled up
the hill and placed in the woods behind the house, and the property
was expanded by acquisition of surrounding lands and buildings.
In 1926 the
government donated an amount of 10 million lire, which allowed a
considerable enlargement of the Villa, with a new wing named the
Schifamondo. In 1931 construction was started on the Parlaggio, the
name for the amphitheatre. The mausoleum was designed after
d'Annunzio's death but not actually built until 1955, and
d'Annunzio's remains were finally brought there in 1963.
The Prioria
The Prioria itself
consists of a number of rooms opulently decorated and filled with
memorabilia. Notable are the two waiting rooms, one for welcome
guests, one for unwelcome ones. It is the latter where Benito
Mussolini was sent to on his visit in 1925. A phrase was inscribed
specifically for him above the mirror:
To the visitor:
Are you bringing
Narcissus' Mirror?
This is leaded
glass, my mask maker.
Adjust your mask to
your face,
But mind that you
are glass against steel.
The leper's room is
where D'Annunzio's wake was held upon his death. Its name comes from
the fact that d'Annunzio felt that he was being spurned by the
government due to their continued efforts to keep him in Gardone,
rather than possibly in the limelight in Rome.
The Relic room holds
a large collection of religious statues and images of different
beliefs, purposely placed together to make a statement about the
universal character of spirituality. The inscription on the inner
wall reads:
As there are five
fingers on a hand, there are only five mortal sins.
D'Annunzio wished to
make clear hereby that he didn't believe that lust and greed should
be considered sinful.
A most unlikely
relic is the distorted stering wheel of racing speedboat Miss England
II, donated after the coppa dell oltranza (unlimited cup)
powerboating trophy, organized under d' Annunzio patronage, was held
in 1931. Miss England II had crashed in a world speed record attempt,
killing her pilot, Sir Henry Seagrave in 1930 (though winning the
record nevertheless) and was rebuilt to race and win at Lake Garda
the following year with Kaye Don at the helm.
D'annunzio who was a
syncretist (believer in all religions) deemed the distorted steering
wheel "a relic of the religion of courage".
The Amphitheatre.
The amphitheatre is
the first major structure one comes across after entering the estate
and was clearly based upon classic models, the architect Maroni even
visiting Pompeii for inspiration. Its location, like the other
buildings of the Vittoriale undeniably offers a majestic view of the
Garda lake, it is still used for performances today.
The Mausoleum
The circular
structure is situated on the highest point on the estate. It contains
the remains of men who served D'Annunzio and died during the Fiume
incident, and d'Annunzio himself.
The Protected
cruiser Puglia
Jutting out of one
of the hilltops the cruiser Puglia makes a surreal sight. It was
placed there, with its bow pointing in the direction of the Adriatic,
“ready to conquer the Dalmatian shores”.
No comments:
Post a Comment