Tuesday, 21 July 2026

Ralph Lauren CEO Patrice Louvet On Leading The Dreams Business | The CEO Signal

 


Patrice Louvet says Ralph Lauren left about $1 billion in revenue on the table as it pulled back from places where, “frankly, we weren’t proud of being.” When he became CEO in 2017, the company had stretched its brand too far. His challenge was to restore the brand without compromising the creative “magic” that made Ralph Lauren distinctive.

 

After nearly three decades at Procter & Gamble, Louvet came from a world of data, structure, and business logic. At Ralph Lauren, he had to learn when the numbers should lead and when they should follow the magic. Defining the company as being in the “dreams business” became the foundation for deciding where the brand belonged, what it should stop doing and how it could grow without losing what made it special.

 

Today, Ralph Lauren has no shortage of opportunities to expand — including into hotels, Louvet says. The challenge is no longer finding new avenues for growth, but knowing which ones to pursue without repeating the gradual dilution that weakened the brand before.

 

For Louvet, that comes down to a deceptively simple principle: knowing what you can do is not the same as knowing what you should do.


Sunday, 19 July 2026

La Chute des Galeries Lafayette : Ce Que Personne N'avait Vu Venir

 


La chute des Galeries Lafayette illustre la crise des grands magasins, fragilisés par le e-commerce et la baisse de fréquentation. En difficulté financière, le groupe a fermé ses deux sites emblématiques de Marseille et retiré son enseigne de plusieurs villes de province (Angers, Metz). Une restructuration a été amorcée pour se recentrer sur le luxe et l'international.

Le déclin du réseau historique s'articule autour de plusieurs moments marquants :

  • Fermetures en province : Le réseau affilié (notamment géré par la Société des Grands Magasins) a rompu son partenariat, forçant sept magasins régionaux à abandonner l'enseigne.
  • Le cas marseillais : Les deux magasins de Marseille (Centre Bourse et Prado) ont fermé définitivement, entraînant la perte de 145 emplois après des années de pertes récurrentes. Les opérations de liquidation ont attiré des milliers de personnes, provoquant des scènes de cohue impressionnantes.
  • Recentrage stratégique : Face à la crise, le groupe a injecté 260 millions d'euros pour moderniser ses adresses touristiques phares (comme le navire amiral du boulevard Haussmann à Paris et celui de Nice) afin de cibler une clientèle très haut de gamme

Saturday, 18 July 2026

Les cafés adorés en France qui ont disparu pour toujours

 

Parisian waiters are not rude – they’re just badly misunderstood

 


The hill I will die on: Parisian waiters are not rude – they’re just badly misunderstood

Helen Massy-Beresford

After living here for years, I can see through that old stereotype. My tip: if your server is not full of bonhomie, why not try saying ‘bonjour’?

 

Sat 18 Jul 2026 05.00 BST

https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2026/jul/18/the-hill-i-will-die-on-paris-waiters-misunderstood-stereotype

 

Parisian waiters are professionals, providing an excellent service – they are not rude or unfriendly, just sometimes slightly misunderstood. No, really, hear me out. We’re all familiar with the trope of the rude Parisian waiter, looking down their nose at your inferior wine choice. They have been called “brusque and unwelcoming”, “snooty and rude” by travellers who voted Paris the unfriendliest city in the world. But after living here for many years, I’m struggling to think of an experience that really lives up to the stereotype. Harried and busy, sometimes, yes. But rude? No.

 

So why do Parisian waiters (and let’s face it, Parisians) have a such a bad reputation? Partly, it’s about misunderstandings. Good manners and greetings between strangers in France are quite formal and can (and did, to this Brit, arriving in 2007) seem a little frosty. There are golden rules that many visitors unwittingly break and the big one is “bonjour”. Or rather, a lack of “bonjour”. Going into a shop or a restaurant in Paris (or anywhere in France) and not greeting the staff is incredibly rude. That means many waiters or shop staff in touristy areas are actually, by French rules, being snubbed thousands of times a day. No wonder some of them feel a little grumpy.

 

It is a cultural difference that often catches visitors to France unawares, as acknowledged before the 2024 Paris Olympic and Paralympic Games, when campaigns to better welcome visitors aimed to improve Parisians’ understanding of tourists. Now I’ve been here a long time, however, I’m with the disgruntled waiters – it is rude not to properly acknowledge the person serving your lunch or scanning your groceries. Even if now on UK trips, my cheerful hellos to Sainsbury’s staff do draw some baffled looks.

 

Once you have got past the bonjour barrier, maybe your complaint will be that your server is a little … bossy. Here, the problem is mismatched expectations. In France, being a waiter is not just a stopgap job, it’s a real career, with qualifications and progression – and, in a restaurant, there is a right way and a wrong way for things to be done.

 

The server despairing at your choice of a well-done steak is not being a snob, they just want to stop you from making a terrible mistake that could ruin your lunch. That’s not to say you have to do as you are told. If you really want milk in your post-lunch coffee or red wine with your choucroute (it “should” be white, to match the wine it’s cooked in), then of course you can. Standing your ground and politely but firmly pushing back, as in many other areas of French life, usually results in a warmer, friendlier exchange.

 

If all else fails and you still find Parisian waiters rude, then just bring your children, or borrow someone else’s. I’ve lost count of the number of kind waiters who have brought mine crayons or sweets, or let a desperate one sneak in to use the loo (even in some quite snooty-looking places). My favourite though was the waiter who offered to cut up my croque monsieur for me, or hold my baby while I did it. Now that was service with a smile – and something I have never encountered in London.

 

Helen Massy-Beresford is a British journalist and editor who lives in Paris

Tuesday, 14 July 2026

Netousek Vienna

 




Netousek Vienna

Netousek is a highly regarded, traditional family-owned bespoke tailoring house based in Vienna, Austria, that has been crafting high-end garments since 1935. Currently managed by third-generation tailor Thomas Netousek, the workshop is celebrated for its dedication to classic, old-school Viennese tailoring, premium material selections, and exceptional attention to hand-stitched detailing.

Store Location & Hours

The cozy, wood-paneled workshop is situated outside the immediate tourist center but remains easily accessible: [1, 2]

Offerings and House Style

Netousek specializes in a distinct Viennese style, typically characterized by a low-sitting gorge and a lightly padded, comfortable structure. Their main offerings include: [1]

  • Bespoke Suits & Jackets: Completely handmade on-site. A standard custom two-piece suit typically requires multiple basted fittings on the client and starts around €3,000.
  • Custom Shirts (Hemd nach Maß): Crafted by creating a unique paper pattern and an initial trial shirt. Features include hand-sewn mother-of-pearl buttons and 7 to 8 stitches per centimeter.
  • Casual & Regional Wear: In addition to formal suits, they design custom premium denim (Jeans nach Maß), bespoke knitwear (Strick nach Maß), and traditional Austrian Trachten jackets.

The Bespoke Process

Getting a suit crafted at Netousek follows a strict traditional timeline:

1.      Initial Consultation: Discussing cut, style, and choosing from an extensive collection of fine fabrics and linings.

2.      First Fitting (Erste Anprobe): Trying on the provisionally basted fabric pieces to adjust the foundation drape.

3.      Second Fitting (Zweite Anprobe): Refining proportions, marking collar/sleeve alignments, and preparing for final details like hand-cut buttonholes.

4.      Final Inspection: A finished try-on to ensure absolute perfection before taking the garment home

Saturday, 11 July 2026

The Most Faithful Adaptation of The Odyssey Nobody Knows About / The Truth about Helen of Troy.




In recent years we have witnessed a forced and completely determined tendency by the WOKE ideology to impose on us a revision of Western History.

It is a falsification of history, introducing characters of varied ethnicities into classic narratives that are completely impossible on the historical level.

We speak, therefore, of absolute historical falsification where the only ideological objective is to weaken and relativize the importance and the right to exist of Western Culture and History.

Therefore, in the WOKE perspective, all Cultures have the right to Identity and Pride, except the Western one.

This is completely unacceptable, factious and ideologically determined.

This attitude will lead to precisely the opposite of WOKE's intended intention

At a time when the Western World feels weakened and threatened by a deep internal crisis of references and values and by the idea of an uncontrolled immigration that strongly jeopardizes demographic balances and the very survival of Western Culture, this permanent attitude of relativization and alteration of the authenticity of the Historical narrative, will be seen as a direct threat. And consequently refused.

 JEEVES / Tweedland




Thursday, 9 July 2026

Prince Harry’s humiliation complete as he loses war on press | The Daily T / After losing to the Mail, Prince Harry seems doomed to a sad life in California. And he did it to himself


After losing to the Mail, Prince Harry seems doomed to a sad life in California. And he did it to himself

That phrase is the exact headline of an opinion piece written by former royal correspondent Stephen Bates, published by The Guardian.

The article was prompted by the High Court's dismissal of a major £50 million privacy and phone-hacking lawsuit brought by the Duke of Sussex and several other high-profile claimants against Associated Newspapers Limited, the publisher of the Daily Mail.

The Context of the Commentary

The author's premise reflects a sharp shift in British public sentiment following the ruling. The piece argues that Prince Harry's self-isolation from the Royal Family and his relentless legal campaign against the British press have ultimately backfired, leaving him increasingly isolated:

  • A Crushing Legal Blow: The High Court definitively ruled that the claimants failed to prove the publisher used unlawful information-gathering methods. The judge emphasized that "suspicion is not proof," delivering what commentators called an "epic fail" for Harry's self-described life's mission to reform the media.
  • Staggering Financial Risk: Because the lawsuit unraveled so completely, Harry and his co-claimants are now facing an estimated £50 million ($67 million) legal bill as the publisher moves to recover its defense costs.
  • Deepening Family Estrangement: The timing of the loss coincided with fresh friction during his UK visit. Reports emerged that he missed a deadline to accept an accommodation offer from King Charles III, meaning he could not stay at Buckingham Palace and was forced to secure his own lodging amid ongoing disputes over his security detail.

The Sussexes' Response

Prince Harry strongly rejected the court's findings. In a joint statement with fellow claimant Baroness Doreen Lawrence, he condemned the judgment as "a complete and obvious whitewash" and called the court's exoneration of the newspaper "shocking as it is totally unwarranted".

While critics view the outcome as a self-inflicted exile to Montecito, Harry's supporters maintain that his legal battles are a necessary, principled stand to protect his family from the same aggressive tabloid scrutiny that targeted his late mother, Princess Diana

 

Tuesday, 7 July 2026

Juanita Carberry obituary

 




Juanita Carberry obituary

This article is more than 12 years old

Felicia Ruperti

Mon 2 Sep 2013 13.39 BST

https://www.theguardian.com/theguardian/2013/sep/02/juanita-carberry-obituary

 

My friend Juanita Carberry grew up in Kenya among wild animals and domesticated creatures that included tame mongooses, cheetahs and a chimpanzee. Her human playmates taught her their language and games, and she spoke fluent Swahili until she died, aged 88. Juanita's meticulously kept photograph albums and diaries told the story of an astonishing woman who loved adventure and the natural world.

 

Her mother was Maia Carberry (nee Anderson) and whether Maia's husband, John Carberry, really was Juanita's father is somewhat contentious. Juanita said: "To me it doesn't matter a jot." The Carberrys were part of the "Happy Valley" set of Kenyan white settlers notorious for their decadent lifestyle. Her mother died in a plane crash when Juanita was three and John remarried. Alongside the memories of a beautifully wild Africa, Juanita's childhood recollections included regular cruelty.

 

In 1941, one of the members of the Happy Valley set, the Earl of Erroll, who was having an affair with Diana, the young wife of Sir Jock Delves Broughton, was shot dead. Delves Broughton was acquitted of the murder and soon afterwards killed himself. Years later, Juanita told journalists that Broughton had confessed his guilt to her, which resulted in a great deal of media attention and gossip.

 

Juanita often told me how bored she was with people's incessant interest in the unpleasant aristocrats of her childhood. A film in which these events were recounted from Juanita's point of view, The Happy Valley, was produced by the BBC in 1987 (with Holly Aird as Juanita), and she co-authored a memoir, Child of Happy Valley (1991).

 

At the age of 15 she ran away from home to live with a maternal uncle, and in 1942 she joined the First Aid Nursing Yeomanry, then the Royal Corps of Signals. In 1951 Juanita signed up with the merchant navy, at a time when only two British cargo ships took on women. She loved being at sea and worked in that profession for some 17 years. She also worked as a safari guide and joined a circus.

 

Juanita was a keen gardener and conservationist, worked as advisory director for the World Society for the Protection of Animals, planted trees and created beautiful gardens at the Mission to Seafarers in Mombasa. She supported many charities, and among her favourites were the Brook Hospital for Animals, the Society for the Protection of Animals Abroad, the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society, the Born Free Foundation, the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust and Survival International.

 

In later life, Juanita settled in London. A staunch supporter of the Campaign for Dignity and Dying, she was sad not to have witnessed a change in the law on assisted dying. Her only criticism of the wonderful Trinity Hospice, where she spent the last weeks of her life, was that they could not "put her down" when she was ready. She made many people laugh until the day she could no longer speak. Juanita left her body to the anatomical exhibition run by Gunther von Hagens.

White Mischief 2. / 70-year-long mystery finally solved.

 

Happy Valley ?


The White Mischief Murderess: 70-year-long mystery over murder in debauched Happy Valley set finally solved
By TASHA COLIN
, 23 September 2010 in The Daily Mail on line http://www.dailymail.co.uk


During her heyday, Alice de Janze kept a pet lion in her house and was seldom seen without a small monkey on her shoulder.
Rich and exquisitely beautiful, she captivated men from London to Nairobi with her dreamy grey eyes, bee-stung lips and fashionably boyish figure.
Nor was the exotic American heiress averse to their attentions. In an age when the average Englishwoman guarded her reputation like a priceless jewel, Alice was famed for being a party-girl who drank eye-wateringly strong Absinthe cocktails and could lure any man she wanted to her bed.
And there was plenty of opportunity for sex in Kenya's Happy Valley, the decadent Shangri-La created by upper-class white colonials between the wars.

White Mischief Murderess: Alice de Janze is now thought to have murdered Lord Erroll in Kenya.

As a key member of the Happy Valley set, she thrilled to the continual round of louche parties, fuelled by alcohol and sexual intrigue  -  where one daring after-dinner game involved male guests sticking their appendages through holes in a sheet so the women could vote on their favourite.
For all that, Alice would have been long forgotten but for one detail: her passion for Josslyn Hay, the Earl of Erroll.
Not because their affair, which outlasted two marriages on both sides, caused any great scandal  -  but because he was cut down in his prime at the age of 39.
The shockwaves caused by the violent death of this good-looking aristocrat have continued to reverberate to this day.
At least half-a-dozen books have been published about his murder at a deserted crossroads in the dead of night, and a movie about it  -  White Mischief  -  even featured Alice as a minor character, played by the actress Sarah Miles.
No one, however, has yet come close to solving the mystery of who killed Lord Erroll. Until now.
The breakthrough, 70 years after the event, comes not from a professional historian or forensic investigator but a retired international businessman who has doggedly pursued fresh leads for the past 12 years.
Paul Spicer started his quest with a considerable advantage: not only had he lived for two extended periods in Kenya himself but his mother, Margaret, had been a good friend of Alice since meeting her in 1925 when they both arrived in Kenya.

Patiently, he returned again and again to see the very few remaining survivors of the Happy Valley era, collecting ever more compelling evidence.
To his astonishment, it all seemed to point to just one culprit: the fun-loving Alice de Janze. Far from being little more than a footnote in history, it appeared that she had literally got away with one of the most celebrated murders of the 20th century.
So why would Alice have wanted to kill her lover? And how can Spicer be so sure that she pulled the trigger? To answer these questions fully, we must go back in time to her first marriage  -  to a French count.
Alice Silverthorne  -  as she was then  -  was the daughter of a millionaire from Buffalo, New York, and had been packed off to Paris at 21 when her relatives grew alarmed at her growing closeness to a young mobster.
There, she soon met and married Frederic de Janze, a mild-mannered French count who remained steadfast and loyal to her until the end of his life.
For Alice, though, the marriage was a disappointment. The unfortunate de Janze lacked the powerful masculinity and sexual chemistry that she was later to find with other lovers, and she was soon casting her dreamy gaze elsewhere.
It had been Count Frederic's idea to whisk his young wife off to the balmy valleys of Kenya  -  then called British East Africa  -  after the birth of two daughters in quick succession left her feeling listless and trapped.
And their host there was none other than Lord Erroll and his new wife, Idina, whom they had met briefly in Paris.

 Alice was a party girl who could lure any man to her bed
In 1925, Erroll was already a pivotal figure in the new community of British aristocrats and rich socialites, who left their black servants to tend to their farms and their kitchens while they hunted, partied and played polo.
Blond, clever and an ace card and polo player himself, the Earl had begun devoting a good deal of his energy to seducing women, especially those who were married.
Everything conspired to intoxicate the previously listless Alice: her sexy host, the hot sun, the high altitude and the carefree bohemianism of her hostess.
Far from the restrictions of British society, Idina and Erroll had cast old repressions aside with abandon, sometimes throwing parties that would last for days at a time.
It was even rumoured that every person had to sleep with someone other than the one they'd arrived with before the party could finish.
For now, though, Idina was pregnant and she preferred to titillate her houseguests by inviting them to watch her take her daily bath or by asking them to dress in pyjamas and dressing-gowns for dinner.
As for Alice, she quickly swapped her Paris designer wardrobe for the loose shirts and corduroy trousers favoured by her hostess. And she was soon having secret sexual rendezvous with her host.


By all accounts, Lord Erroll was an extremely accomplished lover, so he may well have been responsible for her sexual awakening. Certainly, Alice could not hide her new-found joy.
Her forgiving husband decided to wait patiently till she came to her senses. Idina, meanwhile, positively encouraged the affair as she grew ever larger: better that Erroll bedded someone she knew and liked than an outsider, she reasoned.
Not surprisingly, Alice decided that she wanted to live in Kenya, and persuaded her husband to buy a nearby property, Wanjohi Farm. The affair with Erroll continued sporadically for nearly 20 years. Not that Alice let it cramp her style.
A year after her arrival, she fell wildly in love with the 26-year-old youngest son of a British baronet, who had decided to try his hand at big-game hunting and farming in East Africa.
The darkly handsome and athletic Raymund de Trafford was also a gambler and a cad, who had already left a trail of broken hearts. And once again, he behaved true to form.
After first promising Alice he would marry her if she left Frederic, he abruptly changed his mind a year later while they were both on a visit to Paris. Deaf to her anguish, he told her he'd be leaving on the evening train.

 She shot her lover but it was seen as a 'crime of passion'
That afternoon, Alice went into a gun shop and calmly bought a 3.8 pearl-handled Colt revolver and shot him in the chest, before turning the gun on herself.
The scandal made headlines all over the globe as the lovers hovered for weeks between life and death.
But they both pulled through; and at the ensuing trial, Alice received a six-month suspended sentence for what was viewed by the French as a magnificent crime of passion.
The sweet-faced Alice de Janze had definitely proved that she was capable of shooting a lover.
Afterwards, she returned to Africa, where Lord Erroll had by now divorced his wife and acquired another  -  apparently more for her money than her beauty.
Alice resumed her affair with the dashing Earl, though she also pined for Raymund, pursuing him to England for regular visits.
In the end, her long- suffering husband agreed to a divorce and Raymund finally agreed to marry her. It was a pyrrhic victory, however.
Marriage, it seemed, brought out the worst in her new husband, who within weeks was gambling away her money and rowing with her in the street.
They quickly agreed to part, and she returned alone to Kenya to resume where she'd left off with Lord Erroll.
Perhaps Erroll and Alice would have continued their liaison for years had it not been for the sudden arrival in November 1940 of a new couple in their midst: Sir Jock Delves Broughton and his bride Diana.


Almost immediately, 27-year- old Lady Diana  -  who was 30 years younger than her husband  -  became the new reigning beauty of the Happy Valley. Everything about her conspired to irritate Alice.
Not only was the newcomer much younger than herself, but she was Alice's exact opposite in looks: blonde, blue-eyed and so voluptuous that there was much comment on her blatant sex appeal.
Nor did it contribute to Alice's peace of mind to discover that one of her potential beaux, a dashing Coldstream Guards officer called Dickie Pembroke, was completely smitten  -  though Diana evidently turned him down because he didn't have a title.
Lord Erroll, though, was another matter.
By Christmas, he and Diana were regularly being seen dancing together at the Muthaiga Club in Nairobi, in a manner that some members considered indecent. And very soon it became obvious they were having a raging affair.
Within weeks, Diana's husband, Sir Jock  -  a friend of Erroll's  -  gracefully bowed to the inevitable and agreed to a divorce. But Alice, who had never known her lover to be so enthralled, was consumed with jealousy.
At 40, she suddenly became aware that the powers of seduction that she had always taken for granted were finally on the wane.
Perhaps to prove to herself that she could still attract a man, she took Diana's leavings and threw herself into an affair with the snubbed Dickie Pembroke.
She was in bed on the night of January 23, 1941, when he rolled in from a night out at the Muthaiga club and reported to her that Sir Jock had just proposed a toast to the future of his wife and her lover.
He had then told Erroll to make sure his soon-to-be ex-wife was back at the marital home by 3am.
So Alice planned her revenge. She knew when Lord Erroll was likely to be driving his Buick back alone to his own house.
No one can be exactly certain about what happened next, but we do know that he was persuaded to stop at a crossroads leading to his home.
Two shots from a .32 calibre revolver were then fired at close-range. His body was discovered by two African dairy workers not long afterwards, and they alerted the police.
Even after everyone had trampled over the scene of the crime, it was still evident that there was a second set of tyre tracks that were peculiarly thick. No one appeared to make the connection with Alice's DeSoto car, which had enormously wide tyres.
When news broke of the murder, Diana was inconsolable  -  but Alice, far from breaking down, immediately demanded to see the body at the mortuary.
An ex-lover who accompanied her there remembered her passionately kissing Erroll's cold lips and declaring: 'Now you are mine for ever.'

 Kissing his lips, she said: 'Now you are mine for ever'
The most obvious suspect, of course, was the cuckolded husband, Sir Jock Delves Broughton.
He was duly charged with murder  -  even though many could have attested that he was drunk on the night, had a broken wrist and suffered from night blindness.
Alice, who had never previously shown any desire to befriend him, became one of his most regular visitors in jail as he awaited trial. He could not possibly be found guilty, she assured him, because there was no evidence.
To her friends, however, she talked incessantly about how worried she was that the trial might go against him. Was she dreading that she might have to confess in order to save him from the death penalty?
When the trial finally got under way, Alice attended court every day, always arriving early to secure a good seat and taking copious notes.
Among those who gave evidence was her lover Pembroke, who had been brought in by the Crown to rule her out as a possible suspect, and duly testified that he'd been in bed with her at the time of the murder.
The prosecutor, meanwhile, had been sent two anonymous letters suggesting that the killer might be a discarded mistress, for whom Erroll would naturally have stopped his car. He chose to ignore them.
In the end, Sir Jock was found not guilty. At least two authors who have written about the case since believe he did commit the murder, and one writer is even convinced that Sir Jock's wife Diana was responsible.
In virtually every depiction of the Erroll murder to date, Alice is described, suspected and cleared of suspicion.
Eight months after Erroll's death, Alice told several friends over lunch that the first of her two 'deep wishes' had already come true, and now she wondered if the second would occur. She then drove straight to the graveyard where her lover was buried.
Twelve days later, on the morning of September 27, 1941, she went into her garden to collect several armfuls of flowers. Returning to her bedroom, she placed some in vases and scattered the rest over her outsized bed.
Then she wrote out tags with the names of close friends and attached each to a piece of furniture  -  including two large African drums that served as night-tables.
Finally, after putting on her best nightgown, she swallowed a huge dose of Nembutal, lay down on the bed and shot herself through the heart.
Alerted by her hysterical servants, her doctor, William Boyle, arrived to find five letters at the scene: one to Pembroke, two to her daughters, one a suicide note and one to the police.
No one knows where the one addressed to the police is now. The contents were never officially released, possibly because the coroner was so shocked at their implication that he handed the letter to the attorney general.
If so, the attorney general  -  who also happened to be the prosecutor at Sir Jock's trial  -  may well have decided not to re-open that particular can of worms.
But Alice's friend Dr Boyle had already read the letter before handing it to the police, and he had also shown it to his wife. It contained nothing less than her full confession to Lord Erroll's murder.
Paul Spicer had known about the existence of this letter, but was unaware of its explosive contents until he tracked down Dr Boyle's daughter, Alice Fleet.
Only after meeting him several times did she decide finally to reveal what her mother had told her about the letter.
It made perfect sense. After all, Alice had the motive. She had the knowledge of Erroll's movements. She had the nerve, having already tried to shoot a previous lover dead. She had always been a good shot and seldom left home without her revolver.
Her route to the crossroads would have been swift, and Erroll would have immediately recognised her slim figure in his headlights.
But what of her alibi that she was with her lover Pembroke at the time? Spicer believes that it's certainly possible that Pembroke slept through her departure and return on the night of the murder.
And even if he'd heard her coming back, he loved her enough by then to want to protect her.
Other small pieces of evidence also slotted neatly into place.
Julian Lezard, another of Alice's lovers, had always suspected her, and had said as much to friends in later years.
Mary Leslie-Melville, a neighbour of Alice's, had told her daughter-in-law that a few years after the murder, a revolver of the exact calibre used to shoot Erroll had been found under some rocks on the border between their properties.
What did you do, asked her daughter-in-law. 'Nothing,' said Mary. 'Erroll was dead. Alice was dead. What good would it have done to tell anyone?'
Spicer was plagued with one unanswered question: why didn't Alice kill her hated rival instead of her lover? He discovered the answer after finding Alice's old housekeeper, Noel Case.
Alice, recalled Case, had been obsessed with the occult and firmly believed she would meet all her loved ones on 'the other side'.
Suddenly, the meaning of Alice's words to her friends about two 'deep wishes' was illuminated. Her first deep wish had clearly been to kill Erroll. Her second was to kill herself so she could join him on the other side.
Now that 70 years have passed, the evidence against Alice is likely to remain circumstantial. But it does appear overwhelmingly probable that she did indeed murder the man she loved, goaded beyond endurance by his love for her rival.
Certainly, any remake of the film White Mischief could no longer get away with featuring Alice de Janze as a bit-part player.
Adapted from The Temptress: The Scandalous Life Of Alice, Countess De Janze by Paul Spicer, to be published by Simon & Schuster on April 29 at £14.99.


Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1268376/The-White-Mischief-Murderess-70-year-long-mystery-murder-debauched-Happy-Valley-set-finally-solved.html#ixzz29tZ0tVRc




Sir Jock Delves Broughton and his bride Diana.


Josslyn Hay, the Earl of Erroll.

 Alice de Janze


Is this the Happy Valley murderer?

Seventy years after the Earl of Erroll was shot dead, author Paul Spicer claims to have unmasked the true culprit
Elizabeth Grice 27 Apr 2010 in The Telegraph. http://www.telegraph.co.uk

There is nothing like the cocktail of money, aristocracy, sexual intrigue and unsolved murder to keep a story fizzing in the public imagination long after it should have expired from lack of oxygen. How else to account for the pull of Kenya's Happy Valley set, the vividly decadent colonials whose amorality was almost a condition of residence?
Even so, it is bizarre that nearly 70 years after Josslyn Hay, Earl of Erroll, was shot dead at the wheel of his Buick at a crossroads in the middle of the night, we're still interested in who killed him. Film-makers, biographers, amateur sleuths, they just can't leave it alone. Convention has it that the killer was Sir Henry "Jock" Delves Broughton, in a fit of jealousy over Erroll's affair with his young wife, Diana. He was acquitted of the murder in 1941 but later committed suicide, which was considered tantamount to an admission of guilt. Another theory is that Diana herself put the gun to his head because Joss, one of whose wives was the insatiable Lady Idina, refused to marry her. (Being married was never regarded as a complication.) An odder one is that M16 assassinated the peer because he had fascist leanings.
Now along comes Paul Spicer, retired deputy chairman of Lonrho, a man with connections to some of the key players, who claims he has solved the murder more or less by accident. He started researching a biography of his mother's scandalous friend, the American heiress Countess Alice de Janze, and gradually found he was looking into the cool, wide-apart grey eyes of a murderess. She was a rich, beautiful basket-case who kept boredom and melancholy at bay with a string of dubious lovers, in full view of her tolerant French husband, Count Frederic de Janze.
"Her technique with men, I'm told, was to gaze at you and move her head from side to side, looking up in wonderment. It was a sort of hypnotism of a man, really," he says.
Aware of her deficiency as a mother, Alice left her two daughters to be brought up by their grandparents in Paris. A lion cub travelled with her luggage. For kicks, she would ride out alone among wild animals, and kept a Nile crocodile in her bathtub. Crucially, she had form with a gun, having shot both her lover, Raymund de Trafford, and then herself, in a rather ostentatious display of crime passionnel at the Gare du Nord in Paris. They both survived their injuries and eventually entered into a disastrous marriage but the scandal was immense and Spicer recreates her dramatic court appearance, on a charge of manslaughter, with great brio.
"The courtroom was packed with French women," he says. "I think they were all rooting for her because they thought her lover, Raymund, was such a shit, which he was." She was given a suspended sentence and later, on appeal, her name was cleared. How on earth did she get away with it?
"Well," says Spicer, "in France they understand crimes of passion totally. We don't. It was a crime committed for love. The tribunal reflected this belief by fining her 100 francs (about £1), less than she would have had to pay for shooting a deer out of season."
Though Alice had an on-off affair with Joss Hay over many years, her role in the White Mischief mystery, albeit colourful, has been fairly peripheral until now. Spicer puts her in the frame. He believes she killed Erroll (while still in love with him) because he had taken up with the 22-year-old Diana Delves Broughton, and she realised that her own days as a femme fatale were over. If she couldn't have him, no one else would. He establishes convincingly that she suffered from cyclothymia, a strain of bipolar disorder, which increasingly skewed her judgment.
"She had the motive and she certainly had the nerve," says Spicer. "She would not fear carrying out that act. She was consumed with jealousy. She had shot a man before. There wasn't a precise moment when I knew, but gradually the clues, one by one, began to stack up. You get your moment."
What clinched it for him was finding Alice Fleet (née Boyle), whose father, Dr William Boyle, was called to the scene of Alice de Janze's suicide. Dr Boyle (another of Alice's old lovers) found five letters and distributed them to the addressees. One was addressed to the police. It was submitted to the original coroner's inquest but its contents were never released and it has since disappeared. Boyle showed his wife, Ethnie, all five. The fifth, she related to her daughter in unforgettable terms. It contained a confession that Alice de Janze murdered Erroll. "And she told me," says Spicer.
Through Mrs Fleet, Spicer tracked down Alice de Janze's former housekeeper, a white-haired old lady by then living in Norfolk. Noel Eaton-Evans readily agreed that Alice, with her belief in the occult and in "the Other Side", could have killed Erroll, intending to kill herself, too, so they could be united in the afterlife.
However, it was several months later that Mrs Eaton-Evans (then Case) found Alice, barely alive, in a bedroom filled with flowers, her chest heavily bandaged. Spicer reconstructs the scene with forensic dedication. "After putting on her best nightgown and swallowing a huge dose of Nembutal," he says, "she lay down and shot herself in the heart. Her housekeeper told me she had put a large bandage round her bosom. I think she was conscious of the fact that blood would be going everywhere and she wanted to stem it, not make a nasty mess."
Why then, asks Spicer, did Alice not kill herself at the same time as she shot Joss? The answer lay with yet another lover. On the night she purportedly flagged down Erroll in his Buick, put a bullet through his head and returned home, a rather sweet man called Dickie Pembroke was fast asleep in her bed. Pembroke was Alice's alibi on the night of the fatal ambush. Much too loyal to let her down in court, he testified that Alice was indeed with him. No one seems to have doubted it. But then Alice had an astounding track record in influencing lawyers.
"She was very fond of Dickie. And he was madly in love with her."
James Fox, who first laid bare the reckless hedonism of the Happy Valley set in his 1982 book White Mischief, praises Spicer for bringing "an extraordinary character" out of the shadows, but prefers to stick with the theory that Delves Broughton shot Lord Erroll.
Paul Spicer, 82, who grew up with stories about Alice, and as a boy met the hapless Raymund de Trafford, makes a fascinating psychological case for the prosecution. He thinks there was a serious failure of imagination in arraigning Jock Delves Broughton. "The prosecutor had a conventional outlook on life: You steal my wife, I'll get you for it. It was not so simple. Jock was a man accustomed to losing. When he realised he had lost Diana, he wrote her off. He had backed the wrong horse and he lost. There was no question of murder in his mind."
By way of illustration, he tells a delicious story of how Jock saw his friend Erroll holding a towel out for the naked Diana as she emerged from a swimming pool. " 'Joss', he shouted from a window. 'It's my turn to dry Diana today.' They had that sort of camaraderie."
For someone with a new theory to air, Spicer is unusually insouciant about whether he is believed or not. He has talked to people who knew Alice – including one daughter and two lovers – studied her illness, and investigated her life in four countries with the dogged persistence of a private detective. What would his mother, Margaret, have thought of his verdict on her friend? "She would probably be horrified."
'The Temptress' by Paul Spicer is published by Simon and Schuster.



Friday, 3 July 2026

This Is How People Lived Inside a Georgian House in England in 1800 | AI Reconstruction

 

REMEMBERING : Dan Cruickshank's House ... Spitalfields ... More than Architectural History ... a Philosophy of Life




Being myself an architectural historian and very much concerned with restoration issues ... I recognize entirely the "obsessions" of Dan Cruickshank.
It is much more than a "specialisation" ... it is a Way of Life ... it is also the quest for your "secret garden" and the decision to reside or to live "there" ... all your life ... it is real and unreal at the same time ... placed 'somewhere' in the twighlight ...
The name of this Neverland is in my case ... "Tweedland"
Yours ... Jeeves



ALISTAIR DUNCAN
STYLING SIAN WILLIAMS
PHOTOGRAPHS MARK SCOTT
Featured in the January 2011 issue of Period Living


Historian Dan Cruickshank has employed a very sensitive approach to the renovation of his old home that respects and preserves its heritage.
Authenticity has been a constant watchword for Dan Cruickshank as he sets about restoring his Georgian townhouse. While Dan is well known as a TV presenter, the face of cerebral BBC documentaries such as Around the World in 80 Treasures and Adventures in Architecture, first and foremost he’s an academic: an architectural historian who is deeply passionate about the preservation of old houses that showcase the building styles of bygone eras. ‘Old Georgian houses like mine have a very strong, benign presence,’ says Dan. ‘Far too many have been changed too much – modern things have been inserted: heating, lighting, or a ghastly power shower. The atmosphere that is present in these buildings has been destroyed.’
Humble origins
Two local builders, Mr Bunce and Mr Brown, built Dan’s four-storey home in Spitalfields in 1727 for a wealthy silk merchant. Dan bought it more than 30 years ago, and has been painstaking in keeping it faithful to the original spirit of the house ever since. Swathed in 18th-century decorative detail and crammed with interesting – if occasionally rickety – antique furniture, the house is a gem of a time capsule.
‘I bought my house because I was intrigued by Georgian buildings,’ Dan explains. ‘The houses on this terrace weren’t built by great patrons of the arts as conscious works of art, just by humble builders trying to make some money; by chance, they have created buildings of great beauty.
‘However, the house had been empty for many decades when I found it in the late 1970s,’ he continues. ‘It had been completely abandoned, and was full of rotting furniture left by the previous owners.’
Sensitive restoration
In spite of the fact that the house had moved a fair bit on its foundations over the years, and the whole structure was visibly warped, a surveyor confirmed that the skeleton of the building was in good order. The only structural work Dan needed to organise was the rebuilding of the parapet and the relaying of some roof tiles. Inside, however, the ceilings had collapsed throughout – water had poured through the entire house for many years. After it had been allowed to dry out (the old pine floorboards, thankfully, turned out to be ‘just like hardwood – tough and durable; no rot to be found’), Dan took it upon himself to do as much of the work as he could himself, although his approach was always cautious. He went from room to room, renovating each one in as authentic a manner as possible. ‘I set about repairing it as gently as I could,’ he says. ‘I didn’t want to yank up all the floorboards just for the sake of checking; I trusted the house.’
Original pine panelling adorns most of the rooms in the house, along with dados, cornicing, doors and architraves. ‘I looked for the old, Georgian paints and kept them wherever possible – the paint was pretty good on the top floor,’ he says. ‘I just cleaned it with white spirit and linseed oil. But when I needed to repaint elsewhere, I’d look for remnants of original colours – behind shutters or in cupboards – then try to copy them.’ He discovered that the ground floor had been green, so bought some pigments and mixed his own eggshell paint – back then, finding an existing shade that matched was tricky, he says. ‘This was the 1980s; it’s a lot easier to buy heritage paints these days.’
Eventually, after agonising over the thought of modernising too much, he decided to have electricity installed. ‘I wanted the wiring to be non-destructive and reversible, rather than chased aggressively into the panelling,’ Dan explains. ‘The electrician I found managed to lodge it discreetly beneath the woodwork.’
Intriguing discoveries
As he opened up the boarded windows he found, to his great delight, original 18th-century Crown glass – an early type of hand-blown window glass with a distinctive blue-green hue and rippled effect. ‘I find it incredible to think that during the Christmas of 1940, when the family that were living here were huddled in the basement and the east end of London was engulfed in a sea of flames, even the glass survived,’ Dan says.
Averse as he was to tampering with the building, he decided upon one major change to the ground floor sitting room – and this was only to return to the original layout. ‘I realised that the room had been altered in the 19th century,’ he explains. ‘A partition had been moved. I put it back to where it was in the 1720s. Curiously, I found a roll of newspaper, crumpled up and put into the corner of the room to stop a draught. It was from 1848 – that dated the alteration.’
There were other discoveries along the way. Dan came upon old visiting cards, children’s playing cards from the first half of the 20th century, old bottles and then, while repairing one fireplace, he uncovered late 18th-century Delft tiles amid the rubble. ‘The English made their own imitations of Dutch Delft,’ says Dan. ‘These were made in either Bristol or Liverpool.’
A passion for history
In addition to the period detail of the house, which Dan has restored as accurately as he can, he has chosen to furnish his home almost exclusively with antiques. Indeed, it is an Aladdin’s Cave of eye-catching, often rather eccentric historical artefacts. Adorning the walls are prints of architectural wonders, porcelain vases and oil paintings; and every room boasts quirky pieces that Dan has acquired on his globetrotting travels. His furniture has been sourced from junk shops and second-hand markets. Oak writing desks and coffee tables bestride Persian rugs, and high-backed 17th-century chairs are dotted around many rooms.
Dan’s determination to maintain the beauty of the past applies to every aspect of his home, be it the building or its contents. ‘This house is full of mystery,’ he says. ‘It’s a living being, with its own identity and past enshrined within its own fabric. I don’t want it to change; I want it to be lived in gently, so it survives.’











Wednesday, 1 July 2026

GILDED AGE FASHION with Elizabeth L. Block

 

Gilded Age Fashion: More than 50 Iconic Looks and the Stories Behind Them by Elizabeth Block


 

Gilded Age Fashion: More than 50 Iconic Looks and the Stories Behind Them

by Elizabeth Block (Author)  Format: Hardcover

 

Transport yourself to the glamour of elite American society in the 1870s–90s. 

 

Showcasing stunning gowns from the late 19th century designed by founders of couture, Gilded Age Fashion draws from the finest museum collections to tell the story of an era defined by opulence, when families like the Vanderbilts, Astors, and Rockefellers dressed exquisitely for the grandest events on both sides of the Atlantic. 

 

Author Elizabeth Block details the social customs that guided the sartorial choices of the fabulously wealthy. Each sumptuous gown featured tells a story about its creator and the woman who wore it, and the opulent balls, opera nights, charity benefits, and society weddings she might have attended. Gilded Age Fashion opens a dazzling window into America's most extravagant age.

 

Fifty exquisite gowns: The finest couture of the era drawn from renowned museum collections, led by the legendary House of Worth

 

Rich social history: Author Elizabeth Block brings the etiquette, customs, and personal narratives of Gilded Age society vividly to life

 

Beautifully organized: Three illustrated sections organized by the times of day when the clothing was worn

 

Perfect for history and fashion lovers: Essential reading for fans of the HBO series The Gilded Age, costume history and period drama enthusiasts, and anyone captivated by this glittering era