Thursday, 31 July 2014

A GREAT COQUETTE : MADAME RECAMIER.


Madame Recamier
Jeanne Francoise Julie Adélaide Bernard (Born in 1777 Died in 1849 in Paris), otherwise known as Belle Juliette, was above all a celebrity known throughout Europe, famous for her beauty and virtue.
The daughter of sollicitor Jean Bernard, she was born in Lyon. At fifteen she married the well known banker Jacques Rose Récamier. Juliette was also intelligent, well read and affectionate. A good dancer, she also sang and could play both the harp and the piano. Her beauty and kindness helped build her reputation as an exceptional woman. It was said that she was able to charm, entertain or dispense with the over ardent without making enemies.
At the Abbaye-aux-Bois, where she held her salons for over thirty years, her influence on literature and politics was well known. Among the innumerable regular visitors were notable characters such as René Chateaubriand, her only real love, Germaine de Stael, her best friend, André Marie Ampère, Auguste de Prusse, Lucien Bonaparte, The Duchess of Devonshire, Pierre Simon Ballanche, Talma, Balzac, Delacroix, Lamartine, Sainte Beuve…


À partir de 1797, Juliette Récamier commença sa vie mondaine, tenant un salon qui devint bientôt le rendez-vous d'une société choisie. La beauté et le charme de l'hôtesse, l'une des « Trois Grâces » du Directoire, avec Joséphine de Beauharnais et Madame Tallien, lui suscitèrent une foule d'admirateurs. Le cadre de l'hôtel particulier de la rue du Mont-Blanc (hôtel de Jacques Necker ancienne rue de la Chaussée-d'Antin), acquis en octobre 1798 et richement décoré par l’architecte Louis-Martin Berthault, ajoutait à la réputation de ses réceptions. Elle fut l'une des premières à se meubler en style « étrusque » et à s'habiller « à la grecque » et joua de ce fait un rôle non négligeable dans la diffusion du goût pour l'Antique qui allait prévaloir sous l'Empire. L’hôtel Récamier acquit une renommée telle qu'il devint rapidement une curiosité parisienne que tous les provinciaux et étrangers de marque se devaient de visiter. L'année 1800 marqua l'apogée de la puissance financière de Jacques Récamier : il devint alors Régent de la Banque de France. Mais Juliette Récamier ne tarda pas à exciter les ombrages du pouvoir. Amie de Madame de Staël, elle fut une figure clé de l'opposition au régime de Napoléon. Les réceptions de son salon qui jouait un rôle non négligeable dans la vie politique et intellectuelle de l'époque, furent interdites par un ordre officieux de Bonaparte ; Madame de Staël, Adrien de Montmorency, tous deux proches de Juliette et assidus de son salon, furent exilés de Paris ; quand Napoléon devint empereur, Juliette refusa à quatre reprises une place de dame d'honneur à la cour.


Les difficultés de la Banque Récamier, à partir de 1805, obligèrent le couple d'abord à réduire son train de vie puis à vendre l'hôtel particulier de la rue du Mont-Blanc. À ces revers de fortune s'ajoutèrent pour Juliette des chagrins personnels : le décès de sa mère en 1807 ; une histoire d'amour puis une rupture avec le prince Auguste de Prusse rencontré lors d'un séjour au château de Coppet près de Genève chez Madame de Staël ; l'obligation de s'éloigner de Paris par ordre de la police impériale.




 " Went to the house of Madame Recamier. We were
resolved not to leave Paris without seeing what is called
the most elegant house in it, fitted up in the new style.
There are no large rooms nor a great many of them ; but
it is certainly fitted up with all the recherchJ and expense
possible in what is called le gout antique. But the
candelabra, pendules, &c., though exquisitely finished,
are in that sort of minute frittered style which I think so
much less noble than that of fifteen or twenty years ago.
All the chairs are mahogany, enriched with ormolu, and
covered either with cloth or silk ; those in the salon
trimmed with flat gold lace in good taste. Her bed is
reckoned the most beautiful in Paris : it, too, is of
mahogany, enriched with ormolu and bronze, and raised
upon two steps of the same wood. Over the whole bed
was thrown a coverlid or veil of fine plain muslin, with
rows of narrow gold lace at each end, and the muslin
embroidered as a border. The curtains were muslin,
trimmed like the coverlid, suspended from a sort of carved
couronne des roses, and tucked up in drapery upon the wall
against which the bed stood. At the foot of the bed stood
a fine Grecian lamp of ormolu, with a little figure of the
same metal bending over it, and at the head of the bed
another stand upon which was placed a large ornamental
flower-pot, containing a large artificial rose-tree, the
branches of which must nod very near her nose, in bed.
Out of this bedroom is a beautiful little salle-de-bain.
The walls are inlaid with satin-wood, and mahogany, and
slight arabesque patterns in black upon satin-wood. The
bath presents itself as a sofa in a recess, covered with
a cushion of scarlet cloth, embroidered and laced with
black. Beyond this again is a very little boudoir, lined
with quilted pea-green lustring, drawn together in a bunch
in the middle of the ceiling." *
*1 Miss Berry's ' Journal and Correspondence," i. 191.
16

Swan
Juliette’s sensibility and tastes were refined over time, thanks to her contacts with the artists, critics and art lovers she frequented, as well as her visits to Italy and the time she spent at her salon.
Délécluze tells that he came across her one day talking with Jean-Jacques Ampère about his chronic of the 1824 salon that was published in the newspaper “Débats”. Even then, the very carefully studied décor of the hôtel on rue Mont-Blanc – with its numerous ornaments in the shape of stars or swans, soon to be essential elements of the Empire style – was proof that Juliette knew much about elegant neo-classicism, as shown by her collection. Mario Praz suggested a link between the “chaste sensuality” the Juliette was so famous for, and the icy, contemplative eroticism of Canova’s sculpture, a link that would have made their friendship easy to forge. Juliette Récamier, muse and patron of the arts  – Beaux Arts Museum of Lyon.
This is why we decided on a swan as the most fitting symbol for the logo of the hotel La Belle Juliette.
Staring as a young, timid lady from the provinces, she blossomed to become the muse of the salons of the time, so such a point that she was referred to as La Divine, La Belle Juliette, considered to be the most beautiful woman in Europe. Also, the white of the swan was the favourite colour of Juliette Récamier.
And finally, because the swan is the animal most represented in furniture of the period, notably thanks to the Jacob brothers, who included it in several places in Juliette’s bedroom at the Hôtel du Mont Blanc.

 Au temps de la puissance financière des Récamier, les arts sont mis à contribution par le couple pour conforter sa position sociale.

L'acquisition en 1798 d'un hôtel particulier situé rue du Mont-Blanc, dans le quartier à la mode de la Chaussée d'Antin à Paris, leur offre l'opportunité d'en faire un laboratoire du goût nouveau.

A travers ses choix d'aménagements intérieurs et les œuvres d'art qu'elle acquiert, Juliette exprime une préférence marquée pour un néo-classicisme raffiné et gracieux, librement inspiré de l'Antiquité.

Dans tout Paris, le goût de la maîtresse des lieux, à la pointe de la mode, est rapidement salué. Ce souci de Juliette d'évoluer et de recevoir dans un intérieur raffiné demeurera une constante au fil de ses habitations successives, et ce jusqu'à sa retraite à l'Abbaye-aux-Bois.

L'hôtel de la rue du Mont-Blanc : les années fastes

Les Récamier confient la décoration de leur hôtel à un jeune architecte : Louis-Martin Berthault. Probablement aidé de Charles Percier, déjà réputé, le jeune homme imagine un décor harmonieux conçu comme un ensemble : boiseries, tentures, meubles exécutés par l'ébéniste Jacob, se répondent ou s'opposent par de subtils jeux de matériaux, de couleurs et de miroirs. Les pièces de réception jouent un rôle clé dans la demeure.

Comme cela se pratiquait alors, Juliette accueille également dans sa chambre à coucher, désireuse d'y faire admirer son goût pour les dernières tendances. Reproduits et diffusés, les aménagements que l'architecte Berthault fait réaliser pour l'hôtel Récamier sont vite connus et célébrés. Comme l'écrivait la duchesse d'Abrantès, la chambre à coucher a « servi de modèle à tout ce qu'on a fait en ce genre » et le mobilier de Juliette Récamier provoqua en effet une telle admiration qu'il fut rapidement imité.







Attribué à Jacob Frères, Lit de repos provenant du salon de Madame Récamier, vers 1800, bâti de noyer, placage d'espénille de Saint-Domingue et d'amarante, espénille massif, noyer massif peint, 78 x 60 x 170 cm, Paris, musée du Louvre, département des objets d'art (c) RMN / © Daniel Arnaudet

À l'avant-garde, elle se plaisait également à faire visiter la chambre conjugale dans l'hôtel particulier de la rue du Mont-Blanc, à Paris. Aquarelles et plans donnent une idée du faste de la décoration et de l'ameublement commandé à Jacob frères, dont on découvre certaines réalisations en acajou décorées d'appliques en bronze doré (voir ci-dessus). Ce « laboratoire d'un goût nouveau » présente ce que Stéphane Paccoud considère comme « les premiers meubles de style Directoire, ouvrant la voie au style Empire ».

C'est dans les murs de cet hôtel particulier aujourd'hui disparu, avant les premières difficultés financières du couple qui surviennent dès 1805, que Juliette Récamier construit la réputation de son salon. D'abord couru par les figures mondaines de l'Empire, les cercles de madame Récamier s'élargissent aux artistes de son temps.
Son appartement devient, après la mort de Germaine de Staël, en 1817, l'antichambre de l'Académie française. Balzac, Mérimée ou Lamartine se croisent dans son deux-pièces à l'Abbaye-aux-Bois, ici reconstitué. On y admire l'imposante Corinne au Cap Misène, hommage à madame de Staël. Un portrait de la romancière, réalisé par François Gérard, et un autre de Chateaubriand, exécuté par Giraudet, veillent sur le salon de Juliette Récamier.






A GREAT COQUETTE : MADAME RECAMIER.•

THIS clever and entertaining book will be found well worth reading, though M. Joseph Turquan's lively and peculiarly French style loses some of its original effect in translation. Madame Recamier, his beautiful, amiable, and coquettish heroine, has always been something of a riddle to her countrymen, from the disappointed lovers who crowded round her in the days of the Directory, the Consulate, and the Restoration to the biographer of to-day, who-seeks to discover the real secret of her power over society, and of the traditional charm which lingers round her name.

Readers of M. Turquan's books need hardly be told that he is generally angry with his heroines. By way of being a candid and impartial biographer, his aim is rather to pull down than to exalt. As far as contemporary opinion is flattering, he regards it with a sharply suspicious eye; while enemies and scandalmongers are tolerably sure of a favourable bearing. And this method is not without its advantages, both for a reader who is sure of an extra large pinch of " Gallic salt" in books written on this principle, and, strange as it may seem, for the subject itself of such a biography. For instance, this book, in no single way flattering to Madame Recamier, being more than a little blind to her virtues and very unkind to her faults, leaves us much where we were before, with a conviction of her conquering charm, a respect for her character, and a certain compassion for a woman so tormented, as well as adored, by men, among whom Benjamin Constant, that creature of unreasonable affectations, was an outstanding specimen. M. Turquan blames Madame Recamier severely for her heartless treatment of Constant and a dozen others. No doubt she flirted with them all: she was, as Madame de Boigne wrote of her, "coquetry personified": but it was always plain that she cared rather for friendship than for the more passionate kind of love, and the same writer —not usually indulgent—bore witness to a kindliness and human sympathy which resulted in the life-long attachment of nearly all the lovers whom she had reduced to temporary despair. For this cold coquette, with the genius for self- preservation which rouses such indignant scorn in her latest biographer, was in reality the moat patient, compassionate, and charitable of women. " I never knew anyone," wrote Madame de Boigne, "who knew so well how to pity troubles of all kinds, and to make allowances, without irritation, for those which had their source in the weaknesses of humanity." It would have been only natural if a woman of Madame Recamier's beauty, wealth, influence, and popularity had inspired more envy and dislike than admiration in a clever, keen-witted, and rather ill-natured contemporary. Madame de Boigne's high appreciation, expressed in several passages of her memoirs, is more valuable as testimony than the volumes written by Madame Recamier's devoted niece, Madame Lenormant, and may be taken as an antidote to much prejudiced gossip on the other side.
M. Turquan has an amusing story to tell, and he tells it in his accustomed lively manner with much characteristic detail, including the curious whispers as to Madame Recamier's marriage and the explanations of her early life and love affairs which were current in the malicious world of her day. Jeanne Francois° Julie Adelaide Bernard—always known as Juliette—was born in 1777, and was married in 1793 in Paris to M. Jacques Recamier, a business man like M. Bernard, but more prosperous, being a clever speculator and the head of an important banking concern. He was more than double his wife's age and a man of low moral character, but a kinder or more indulgent husband would have been difficult to find, and during the years of the Directory Madame Recamier, considered "the most beautiful woman in Paris," was, with Madame Tallien and Madame de Beauharnais, one of the leaders of a society more extravagantly bent on pleasure than any under the old regime. She was the most graceful dancer at Barras' famous Luxembourg assemblies. These state- ments seem to be a little in M. Turquan's way when be tries bard, following his principles, to throw doubts on the supreme beauty and perfect grace ascribed to Madame Recamier by her contemporaries. He describes her as rather pretty than beautiful, like a Greuze portrait., with a lovely complexion and " twinkling " eyes—and we must confess that her portraits bear out this idea of a kittenish kind of beauty which is certainly not the highest. But M. Turquan finds himself on still surer ground a little further on. Madame Recamier's waist, he says, was "ungainly"; her bands and feet, which she admired, and which her portraits take care to show, were "cast in a coarse mould." But "her smile converted her friends to her own belief. Everything in this world—even beauty—is more or less an illusion."
In the case of Madame Recamier the illusion was lasting and triumphant. M. Recamier bought a house in the present Rue de la Chaussee-d'Autin—then Rue du Mont-Blanc—and furnished it in the finest and most expensive fashion of the day. Here his hospitality—even if merely " a commercial manoeuvre "—and the gracious manners of his beautiful and kindly wife attracted an immense variety of people. Madame Recamier's salon was a not unsuccessful imitation of those before the Revolution, though it differed from them in its less exclusive character. This could not have been otherwise, and the disadvantageous comparison with Madame du Deffand, which M. Turquan is uncritical enough to make, certainly borders on the absurd. You cannot compare an amiable, ambitious bourgeoise with a highly trained, keen-witted aristocrat ; it is more than unfair to blame the one for unlikeness to the other. But Madame Recamier had her own way of attracting both men and women, and in the end she was certainly more successful than Madame du Deffand. A blind old age was the destiny of both ; but in the one case surrounded by old lovers and old friends, in the other embittered and lonely.

The first period of Madame Recamier's popularity in society ended with the rise of the Empire. During the Consulate her salon was crowded with people of every shade of thought : there regicides met émigrés, Napoleon's young generals met Louis XVI.'s officers, literary men and women found their advantage in making friends with bankers and contractors. Thither came Talleyrand, Fouche, Madame de Stael—in short, everybody who was anybody, including, at the time of the Peace of Amiens, a number of foreigners, among whom the English were conspicuous. In the summer of 1802 Madame Recamier paid a visit to London, where she was received with enthusiasm. But these years, triumphant as they seemed, were in one important point a failure. Madame Recamier lost the favour of the First Consul. His family thronged to her house ; his brother Lucien was at one time desperately in love with her ; he was himself personally attracted by her ; but as a whole the company at the Rue Mont-Blanc was viewed by him with suspicion. This state of things reached a crisis soon after he became Emperor. Madame Recamier, faithful to her many Royalist friends, was indignant at the murder of the Due d'Enghien. She also deeply resented the exile of Madame de Sta.. When Fouche, instructed by Napoleon, offered her the appointment of dame du palais to the Empress and "friend of the Emperor," she flatly declined. In con- sequence of this, it appears, the Bank of France was directed to refuse M. Recamier a loan which would have kept him solvent ; his bank closed its doors ; and shortly afterwards, though not actually banished from France by Napoleon's order, Madame Recamier retired in comparative poverty to Switzerland. After a time she returned to Paris, and her friends gathered round her again. A second exile, during which she visited Rome and Naples, only ended with the Restoration. A further loss of fortune in 1820 led her to establish herself in those rooms at the Abbaye-aux-Bois which became a place of pilgrimage for her admirers, old and new, with almost every well-known person who visited Paris during the next thirty years.

All this story is told by M. Turquan in a gay and somewhat mocking spirit. If he cannot deny Madame Recamier charity and discretion, beauty and attractiveness, he can at least insist on her self-consciousness, worldliness, and vanity, while throwing doubts on her general goodness and intelligence and dwelling on the weaknesses from which of course she was not exempt. Otherwise, to judge from all contemporary accounts which are not those of her declared enemies, she would have been a quite unnatural piece of perfection.

Certainly few women, of Madame Recamier's day or any other, can point to such a string of men—men mostly of distinction, sometimes of genius—who have laid themselves and their fortunes in passionate devotion at their feet. In her own way Madame Recamier loved them all. In one case only, that of Prince Augustus of Prussia, she was so far carried away as to think of a divorce from her husband in order to marry him. M. Recamier, her true friend, wisely advised her against this step. In all her other flirtations there was no question of anything of the kind, at least on her side. Mathieu and Adrien de Montmorency, Eugene de Beauharnais, Lucien Buonaparte, Benjamin Constant, Jean-Jacques Ampere, the faithful and unselfish Ballanche—most of these, with many whose names are less familiar, began by falling in love with Madame Recamier and became her life-long friends. Last, not least, there was the long and sincere mutual affection which united Madame Recamier with Chateaubriand; and there were the years when, old age and blindness creeping on, her salon became the second home of that great romantic writer, and in its own quiet, distinguished way the literary centre of Paris.




Présentation de l'exposition Juliette Récamier

Wednesday, 30 July 2014

Revisiting the unforgettable “An Englishman Abroad” . See also bellow the next “post”


The Following Video is precisely concentrated on the  passage ( from 50min 45sec on ) in which the actress visits in London, the establishments where Guy Burgess used to be a Gentleman – customer 

( …) “Burgess was a Marxist, but he liked good English tailoring too much to be a rabid revolutionary. In the film he is shocked that anybody would consider him dangerous.
( …) “Burgess says: "So little, England. Little music, little art. Timid, tasteful, nice. But one loves it, one loves it." He died far from little England. On September 1, 1963, an official of a Moscow hospital announced that Jim Andreyevich Elliott -- the name by which Burgess was known in Russia -- had died from heart disease. The "Internationale" was played at his funeral three days later. Apart from MacLean, no one of note attended.”
Thomas Brown

An Englishman Abroad is a 1983 BBC television drama film, based on the true story of a chance meeting of an actress, Coral Browne, with Guy Burgess (Alan Bates), a member of the Cambridge spy ring who spied for the Soviet Union while an officer at MI6. The production was written by Alan Bennett and directed by John Schlesinger; Browne stars as herself.

The film is set is Moscow in 1958, after Burgess had fled to the city following MI6's detection of his treason. Burgess barges into Browne's dressing room in the interval of a touring Shakespeare Memorial Theatre (which became one of the bases of the Royal Shakespeare Company) production of Hamlet, in which she portrayed Gertrude, and charms her. Later on she is invited to his Moscow flat, finding it with some difficulty, to measure him for a suit that he would like ordered from his London tailor.

Rather than film in the Soviet Union, Schlesinger used several locations in Scotland. The Caird Hall and Whitehall Theatre in Dundee stood in for the Moscow theatre, and the grand marble staircase of Glasgow City Chambers played the part of the British Embassy.Additional filming was done at Glasgow's St. Andrew's Suspension Bridge ("luckily, in a snowstorm" Bennett later wrote) and the Moss Heights flats in Cardonald, which represented Burgess' Moscow apartment.

Both Browne and Bates were winners of the BAFTA awards for acting for their roles in this production.

Bennett gives the date of Browne's meeting with Burgess as 1958 in the introduction to his Single Spies, which contains the text of An Englishman Abroad in the stage play version and the text of A Question of Attribution about Anthony Blunt.

The play was also adapted for radio on the BBC World Service in 1994 starring Michael Gambon as Burgess and Penelope Wilton as Coral Browne. It was subsequently re-broadcast on BBC Radio 7 and BBC Radio 4 Extra, most recently in 2013 as part of BBC Radio 4 Extra's Cambridge Spies season

Monday, 28 July 2014

The Mythical Harrington jacket / Baracuta




 A Harrington jacket is a lightweight waist-length jacket, made of cotton, polyester, wool or suede — usually with traditionally Fraser tartan or check-patterned lining. The first Harrington-style jackets were made by British clothing companies Grenfell of Burnley, Lancashire and Baracuta of Stockport, Cheshire in the 1930s. As of 2012, Baracuta still makes the same model, the G9. Elvis Presley popularized the Baracuta G9 when he wore it in his 1958 movie King Creole. This style of jacket earned the nickname Harrington because it was worn by the character Rodney Harrington (played by Ryan O'Neal) in the 1960s prime time soap opera Peyton Place.

Similar to the 1950s United States Ivy League look, the jacket became fashionable in the United Kingdom in the 1960s among mods and skinheads. They again became popular in the late 1970s and early 1980s with skinhead and mod revivalists, as well as with scooterboys. Within those subcultures, Harringtons are often worn with Fred Perry or Ben Sherman shirts.

In France, HARRINGTON is a registered trademark since 1985.

In addition to Baracuta, companies that have made Harrington jackets include: Yves Saint Laurent, Ralph Lauren, Lambretta Clothing, Pretty Green, Brooks Brothers, Merc London, Fred Perry, Tesco, Izod, Ben Sherman, Lacoste, Lyle and Scott, Lonsdale, Warrior Clothing and howies.

In 2007, to celebrate the 70th anniversary of its brand, Baracuta released three special edition G9 jackets with quotes by Presley, Steve McQueen and Frank Sinatra — all of them frequent wearers of the Harrington — printed on the lining.









BARACUTA G9: PROUDLY MADE IN UK

Baracuta Spring Summer 2013

Saturday, 26 July 2014

Alan Turing biopic The Imitation Game named as London film festival opener /Alan Turing biopic accuracy questioned / VIDEO The Imitation Game - Official UK Teaser Trailer

--IN CINEMAS 14th NOVEMBER--
The Imitation Game is a nail-biting race against time following Alan Turing (pioneer of modern-day computing and credited with cracking the German Enigma code) and his brilliant team at Britain's top-secret code-breaking centre, Bletchley Park, during the darkest days of World War II. Turing, whose contributions and genius significantly shortened the war, saving thousands of lives, was the eventual victim of an unenlightened British establishment, but his work and legacy live on.

THE IMITATION GAME stars Benedict Cumberbatch (Star Trek Into Darkness, TV's Sherlock) as Alan Turing and Keira Knightley (Atonement) as close friend and fellow code-breaker Joan Clarke, alongside a top notch cast including Matthew Goode (A Single Man), Mark Strong (Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy), Rory Kinnear (Skyfall), Charles Dance (Gosford Park, TV's Game of Thrones), Allen Leech (In Fear, TV's Downton Abbey) and Matthew Beard (An Education).

http://www.facebook.com/imitationgameUK


Alan Turing biopic The Imitation Game named as London film festival opener
Prestigious red-carpet slot in London's West End goes to life story of renowned codebreaker, starring Benedict Cumberbatch
Andrew Pulver

The London film festival has announced that the Alan Turing biopic The Imitation Game will be the opening film for its 58th edition.

Starring Benedict Cumberbatch as Turing, the film is expected to help elevate even further the reputation of the pioneering British scientist, whose work was crucial to cracking German cypher codes during the second world war but who then killed himself in 1954 after being prosecuted for gross indecency in 1952 after the revelation of a then-illegal gay relationship. Prime minister Gordon Brown released a statement of apology in 2009 on behalf of the British government for the "appalling" treatment of Turing.

Directed by Morten Tyldum and co-starring Keira Knightley as Turing's friend and fellow code-breaker Joan Clarke, the London film festival screening is being billed as a European premiere, which suggests the film's world premiere will be held outside Europe, most likely at the Toronto film festival in early September.

The London film festival runs from 8-19 October



Alan Turing biopic accuracy questioned
Film starring Benedict Cumberbatch and Keira Knightley accused of romanticising pioneering scientist's life
Andrew Pulver
Follow @Andrew_Pulver Follow @guardianfilm

Alan Turing's niece Inagh Payne has questioned the accuracy of The Imitation Game, the forthcoming biopic of her uncle, the codebreaker and pioneering computer scientist, starring Benedict Cumberbatch.

Speaking to the Mail on Sunday, Payne particularly expressed concern over the casting of Keira Knightley as parson's daughter Joan Clarke, who worked at Bletchley Park with Turing and was briefly engaged to him.

"Joan Clarke was rather plain," Payne said. "But she was very nice, bright and a good friend to Alan... When he told her about how he was she accepted it, didn't make a scene or anything like that."

"I think they might be trying to romanticise it. It makes me a bit mad. You want the film to show it as it was, not a lot of nonsense."

Turing worked at Bletchley Park as a codebreaker during the second world war, before joining the National Physical Laboratory, where he designed the early computer ACE, and then Manchester University's Computing Laboratory. Turing was convicted of gross indecency in 1952, and accepted "chemical castration" – hormone treatment – to avoid imprisonment. He killed himself two years later, in 1954.

In 2009, prime minster Gordon Brown issued an apology on behalf of the government for its treatment of Turing, and parliament agreed to pass a bill giving him a posthumous pardon.

The Imitation Game, directed by Headhunters' Morten Tyldum is due for release next year.

Tuesday, 22 July 2014

The Return of the Saddle Shoe.

What are Saddle Shoes?


Throw off that pleated skirt, baggy sweater, bobby sox and loafers and grab your poodle skirt and saddle shoes, it's time to rock and roll!

In the post-war era of jive, jitterbug and The King, Elvis Presley, a two-toned snappy shoe replaced the respectable penny loafer. That crazy new footwear was the saddle shoe and it bunny-hopped and bee-bopped its way into popular culture.


The classic saddle shoe is a dress-style shoe with a leather white toe box and back, and a black instep and vamp, which includes the throat, tongue and eyelets. The instep and vamp together form a shape much like a saddle in the center of the shoe, hence the name. A contrasting black strip also ran up the rear of the shoe at the back of the heel, often with a buckle at the top. The rubberized composite low-heeled sole was coral colored.

With the popularity of the saddle shoe other two-toned colors emerged, including black shoes with white saddles, white shoes with red, and tan shoes with brown. At one time or another it's likely that nearly every conceivable color combination has found its way into the saddle shoe.

In 1957 Elvis Presley thrilled a generation in Jailhouse Rock with his ultra-cool blue eyes, sexy gyrations and deep resonate voice -- and he did it in saddle shoes as well as in another up and coming shoe that would eventually replace the saddle shoe: the humble sneaker. James Dean, who died in 1955 at the age of 24, was another icon and lightening rod for youth. One of the most famous photographs of James Dean shows him standing in jeans and sneakers. With Dean and Presley both embracing this new trend it was just a matter of time before saddle shoes ended up at the back of the closet, and sneakers took their place up front.

Still, despite the more casual dress of today's fashions, saddle shoes continue to be widely available at most department stores, bearing testament to their enduring appeal. They bring to mind an era of innocence, naivety, youth and the sounds of a generation caught between the greasers of the '50s and the hippies of the '60's. Their classic look and styling has endured the changing times, and on those occasions when sneakers won't due, saddle shoes remain a hip choice for eclectic shoe lovers everywhere. Try a pair on and see if you don't feel the magic!
 June 17, 2009
DRESS CODES
The All-American Back From Japan

By DAVID COLMAN / June 17, 2009 / The New York Times / http://www.nytimes.com/2009/06/17/fashion/18codes.html?em

AS you have surely noticed, all- American preppy style has come back for another goround. There is madras everything, button-downs everywhere. Nantucket reds — washed-out pink pants — are the new khakis; Sperry Top-Siders are more common on roof decks than top decks; and the Polo pony and the Lacoste crocodile are now but two of the critters in a zoo of polo shirt insignia.

Lately the trend has taken on a new dimension, via the Internet, with a resurgence of interest in once obscure American brands. Alongside the familiar L. L. Bean duck boots, Brooks Brothers shirts and Ray-Ban Wayfarers, there are Filson duffel bags, Gokey boots, Alden dress shoes, Gitman oxford shirts, Quoddy Trail moccasins, Wm. J. Mills canvas totes — to name but a few. Moribund brands like Southwick and Woolrich are being revived with new designs. And the old-school look has been furthered by popular American fashion labels — small houses like Thom Browne, Band of Outsiders and Benjamin Bixby along with megabrands like J. Crew and Ralph Lauren.

As fashion moments go, this is as all-American as it gets, right?

Actually, no. What makes today’s prepidemic so fascinating is how it is, surprisingly enough, so Japanese. The look has its roots in the United States, to be sure. But the spirit, rigor and execution of today’s prep moment is as Japanese as Sony. One need only flip through the intriguing Japanese book “Take Ivy,” a collection of photographs taken in 1965 by Teruyoshi Hayashida on Eastern college campuses, to get the drift.

“Take Ivy” has always been extremely rare in the United States, a treasure of fashion insiders that can fetch more than $1,000 on eBay and in vintage-book stores. But scanned images from the book have been turning up online in recent months. Ricocheting around the network of sartorially obsessed Web sites and blogs (like acontinuouslean.com and thetrad .blogspot.com), it has aroused renewed interest for its apparent prescience of preppy style. (In the United States, the word preppy came into popular use only in 1970, thanks to the best-selling book and top-grossing movie “Love Story”; and the full flowering of preppy style would not arrive until 1980 with the best-selling “Official Preppy Handbook.”)

But “Take Ivy” was not prescient; it was totally timely, having been commissioned by Kensuke Ishizu, who was the founder of Van Jacket, an Ivy Leagueobsessed clothing line that was a sensation among Japanese teenagers and young men in the early 1960s. Mr. Ishizu was a kind of Ralph Lauren avant la lettre.

“You could have called it a Van look,” recalled Daiki Suzuki, the designer and founder of Engineered Garments (channeling vintage workwear) and the designer of the revamped Woolrich Woolen Mills line (channeling 1950s New England). He remembers “Take Ivy” from his childhood in Japan and how the Ivy look, as it is generally called there, became basic in the ’70s and ’80s, as the craze for American things like Levi’s and Red Wing boots accelerated. In 1989, Mr. Suzuki moved to the United States to work for a large Japanese store scouting for new American designers and obscure brands to import, like White’s Boots from Washington, Russell Moccasin from Wisconsin and Duluth Pack backpacks from Minnesota.

“It’s funny — this authentic Americana, people in the States didn’t care about it at all,” Mr. Suzuki said. “But I would take it back, and everybody would say, ‘Wow, this is really great, what is this?’ Now it’s different. People here like it now.”

HE would know. In 1999, once the Internet began eroding the specialness of his small “Made in the USA” finds, he founded Engineered Garments with the idea of updating vintage American pieces for modern tastes, and for five years he sold the line only in Japan. In the last couple of years Americans have come around, and now the line is a hot seller at Barneys New York.

As curious as this American-export style of business sounds, it is not unusual. Post Overalls, a Japanese- owned line based (and made) in America since 1993, started selling here only this spring. J. Press, the venerable Ivy League clothier founded in New Haven in 1902 and bought by the Japanese fashion giant Kashiyama in 1986, has four modest stores in this country — in Cambridge, Mass.; New Haven; New York; and Washington — but sells roughly six times as much as American made J. Press merchandise in Japan at department stores like Isetan.

The Japanese penchant for Americana is not merely a story of economics; it is a matter of style. It has not been unusual for Japanese men to wear the Ivy look in head-to-toe extremes once unthinkable here — say, a blazer, tie, plaid shorts and knee socks. But given the zeal for American designers like Thom Browne and Scott Sternberg of Band of Outsiders, who tinker with old-fashioned Americana (and whose lines are made in the United States and are very popular in Japan), extremism is finally becoming fashionable here. A column in this month’s GQ by a to-the-boatshoe- born Southerner even inveighs against the trend, labeling it a case of arrivistes going overboard. But whose Ivy look has the more valid claim?

Mr. Suzuki remembers the first time he met Mr. Browne, when they were both starting their lines. “He was wearing a gray suit, button-down shirt, tie, cashmere cardigan and wingtips,” he recalled. “I remember thinking, ‘I’ve never seen an American dress in such Japanese style.’” Mr. Browne is flattered. “It’s amazing,” he said. “The Japanese get the whole perfect American thing better than Americans. They understand that it’s an identifiable style around the world, this American look. We think we appreciate it, but we really don’t, not like they do.”

But that’s changing. Not long ago, men scoffed at dress shorts, let alone wore them to work. Now, they are a summer norm, along with seersucker suits, ribbon belts and horn-rimmed glasses. While some men still prefer it low-key — plain boat shoes, a faded Lacoste shirt with jeans or a khaki suit with a madras tie — even full-on Japanese prep — blue blazer, button-down, bermudas, loafers — can look good if you have the attitude to carry it off.

As fascinating and confusing as this cross-pollination is, the story of ostensible outsiders borrowing from and bettering the holy tartan has an august history. Brooks Brothers, the country’s oldest operating men’s clothier, and the venerable Ray-Ban brand are owned by the Italian Del Vecchio family. Erich Segal, the author of “Love Story,” and Lisa Birnbach, who put together “The Official Preppy Handbook,” are Jewish, as is Scott Sternberg of Band of Outsiders (who this week won the Council of Fashion Designers of America award for men’s wear, in a tie) and, of course, the look’s most famous exponent, Ralph Lauren. And, by the way, those two most prep fabrics, gingham and seersucker, came to the United States, via Britain, from India.

André Benjamin, a k a André 3000, the designer of the bright Ivy-inspired Benjamin Bixby line (perhaps the only celebrity line with a truly fresh viewpoint), grew up in Atlanta amid the preppy boom of the ’80s and early ’90s. He remembers how schoolmates spent their money on clothes and cars, wearing two or three polo shirts at a time and fetishizing prepmobiles like the Volkswagen Cabriolet.

“I can’t speak for how it’s been taken up in Asian community,” he said, “but in the black community, you’re always striving to rise above. Most black kids don’t even go to college, and you just hope you can will yourself to get there.

“Like a lot of things, the myth is greater than the actual thing. The WASPy lifestyle, with the parents and traditions, it looks great, but appreciating it from the outside brings a whole different perspective. Ralph didn’t come from it, either. It’s all about having your own twist.”

To Mr. Benjamin, the most appealing part of the old prep look was not its WASPiness but its suggestion of an easy, well-dressed freedom from anxiety, the same entitled naïveté of Oliver Barrett IV, the WASPy Romeo of “Love Story.”

“This golden age of Ivy League style we’re talking about — the blue blazers, the chinos, the sweatshirts, the tweed jackets — what I like is that it’s a look without looking like you thought about it. It looks like you care, but you don’t care.”

Of course, as one of the world’s best and most colorfully dressed men, Mr. Benjamin cares deeply, and it shows in his clothes, as it does in all the new prep gear. And so what if it does? It may not be true of love, but as any boarding-school student can tell you, preppy means never having to say you’re sorry.





Monday, 21 July 2014

Enthusiasms By MARK GIROUARD.

Does a neglected masterpiece by Jane Austen enshrine her first love affair? Who was Vita Sackville West's real grandfather? What clues are there to the identity of 'Walter', doyen of Victorian pornographers? When and why did P.G. Wodehouse mutate from hack to genius? Was Oscar Wilde really down and out in Paris? Was Brideshead really Madresfield?

These and other excursions into literary or social history have developed out of Mark Girouard's spare time enthusiasms, as diversions from his main occupation as an architectural historian. In nine essays he calls attention to points that have not been noticed before, corrects fallacies that have got into general circulation, suggests, identifies, redates, refutes, or pours a little cold water on unjustified romanticisms. Three further essays sample another enthusiasm, his own family background, and introduce characters such as the dwarf who had to stand on a bench to address the South African Parliament, the colonial governor who fell in love with his niece, and the dowager duchess with whom he spent his childhood on the edge of the park at Chatsworth.


Mark Girouard

Mark Girouard was born in 1931. He is a British architectural writer, an authority on the country house, leading architectural historian, and the biographer of James Stirling. He worked for Country Life magazine until 1967. He was Slade Professor of Fine Art from 1975 to 1976, and was elected a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of London in 1987. Among his many books are Elizabethan Architecture (2009) and Life in the English Country House (1978).
Douglas Blain, Secretary of the Spitalfields Trust with Mark Girouard at 9 Elder St.

Enthusiasms
By MARK GIROUARD

The prolific architectural historian Mark Girouard is the author of the revelatory, endlessly entertaining Life in the English Country House, one of the great works of social and material history. It now emerges that he has another, more miscellaneous side, and has happily squandered incalculable hours attempting to winkle out answers to questions over which few people lose sleep. The excellent fruits of this intellectual wantonness can be found in Enthusiasms, a tidy little volume of fifteen essays and explorations.

Girouard begins with the question of when Jane Austen wrote Catherine, or the Bower, the unfinished novel that is usually considered to be the last of her juvenilia. In a carefully laid out argument he convincingly plumps for 1795-96 over the commonly accepted 1792, placing the work not only after Susan but also after the first version of Pride and Prejudice. This is the sort of revolutionary declaration that will cause Janeites to reach for their smelling salts. Nonetheless, it is not nearly so arresting to me as his remarks on the near absence of servants from Austen's novels, something I have wondered about myself. "Jane Austen's drafts," writes Girouard, "must have needed alterations to bring them in line with growing early nineteenth-century notions of propriety." And an important element in that was the portrayal -- or non-portrayal -- of servants. Though there is a lively maid in Catherine, Austen has almost entirely banned these essential creatures from the highly polished published work, which novels, says Girouard, "it should be remembered, were published at the time when tunnels were being built in some country houses so that service and servants could move to and fro without being seen by the gentry."

In another reassessment, "Up and down with Oscar Wilde," Girouard displays a strange animus toward his subject, showing how relentlessly this "Irishman on the climb in London" promoted himself. He then tots up how much money the broken aesthete actually had at his disposal for the last, reputedly impoverished three and a half years of his life, arriving at "around £70,000 a year in modern value." In the course of pillorying Wilde as a brown-nosing, jumped-up poetaster who cried poormouth, Girouard acquaints his readers with some of the arcana attached to an artist or writer breaking into Society's various bastions at the time, from the more accessible dinners and receptions to the fastness of the country houses. Of the last named he observes, "Only a few were given entrée to those, for reasons not always clear -- Landseer but not Millais, Dickens but not Thackeray, Lear but not Carroll, Tennyson but not Browning, Barrie and James, but not Galsworthy or Hardy." And, note to the socially ambitious: it was "'Saturday to Monday' parties" to which the chosen might be invited; " 'weekend' was considered a vulgar expression."

Girouard's appetite for research gets a thorough workout in "Walter wins: a hunt but no kill," an engagingly unsuccessful investigation into the true identity of the libidinous "Walter" of My Secret Life, first published in eleven volumes between 1882 and 1894. (Girouard keeps a three-volume edition of the work in his bathroom, "very much to hand on the bottom shelf, alongside the Rev. F. E. Witts's Diary of a Cotswold Parson and Bernard Walke's Twenty Years at St Hilary.") Claiming to have had sex with over 1,200 women, Walter was "a compulsive collector and cataloguer" and, as such, "a dedicated worker and happy in his work." Girouard's account of searching for Walter -- his fossicking through public records, sleuthing about in the streets, and visiting possible sites of bygone conquests -- is, to my mind at least, more thrilling than that priapic hero's adventures.

Throughout these essays Girouard shows a wry, unillusioned sense of how the historical record is fashioned. He begins "The myth of Tennyson's disinheritance," for instance, with this edifying picture:
What is that gentle sound of rustling, clipping and scratching, that faint smell of burning, which the sensitive ear and nose can catch as background to the brassier sounds and smells of the decades around 1900? It is made by the widows and children of great Victorians at work deleting, cutting out and burning all the passages in letters, all the unpublished writings of parents or spouses which could deface the marble perfection of the portraits of greatness which they or suitably emasculated biographers are preparing for the world. Not always just the widows, for sometimes the act of purgation goes off while the great man himself, still magnificently bearded in his ruin, sits benignly in the background as the good work goes on.
It may be that you do not count the disinheritance of Tennyson or, rather, of his father, George, among the great crimes against humanity, but Girouard's debunking of the legend is nonetheless a wonderful example of how history is shaped by a combination of special pleading and ignorance or disregard of the usages of the past. Girouard shows -- in detail that I will leave you to savor -- how the first official chronicler of Tennyson's life, his son Lionel, took two indisputable facts, sheared off their historical circumstances,  and combined them to produce a venerable, ahistorical fiction.

In "P. G. Wodehouse: from hack to genius" Girouard ponders the question of why and how the great man was able to write such quantities of bilge and yet produce gold. "It would not much worry me," he tells us, "if…all his books published before 1922 and after 1949, were to disappear." It is a judgment he alters somewhat in the course of his consideration of the nature of Wodehouse's fiction, though he does believe that it was likely that the author himself, ever alert to sales, couldn't really tell the difference between his good and bad works. Boiled down, Girouard believes that Wodehouse's short-story writing sharpened up the novels of the golden period, and that his exile from Britain after the war extinguished the spark. He also believes that someone called "Robert McCrane" wrote a biography of Wodehouse in 2004; it was Robert McCrum.  

Among the other questions Girouard takes up are how much time John Masefield, who would have had us believe that he "must go down to the seas again / To the lonely seas and the sky," spent as a mariner. It was, in fact, four months, endured when he was in his teens, and, as Girouard puts it, "for the rest of his long life he made his home as far from the sea as possible." He sets the record straight on which castle appears in Charlotte Mews's poem "Ken," arguing for Arundel in Sussex  instead of Carisbrooke on the Isle of Wight, and gets caught up in the carryings-on of Vita Sackville-West's grandmother, Pepita. On the face of it, these are not subjects to drive all other thoughts from the minds of most people, but Girouard opens them up beyond petty detail, expanding them with his understanding of historical context, and brings such an infectious mood of inquiry to them that they become irresistible.

Girouard finishes with three essays about his family: the Jewish Solomons who, among other things, pretty much ran St. Helena while Napoleon was there; his French-Canadian grandfather, Lieutenant (later Sir) E.P.C. Girouard), an engineer whose exploits included building Kitchener's impossible railroad connecting Wadi Halfa with Khartoum; and his aunt Evie, who took him and his two sisters in after his mother was killed in an automobile accident when he was nine. The last, in particular is an affecting, often funny exercise in stiff-upper-lippery, as well as a meditation on the habits of the wellborn and the decline of the servant class.


Girouard tells us in his brief introduction that he has written these pieces "for pleasure, not instruction, and one of the pleasures for me has been to escape from the burden of a professional historian, the need to provide footnotes and to qualify my judgements." It is that freedom, no doubt, that contributes to the book's overall tone, a uniquely winning one of easygoing elegance and scholarliness lightened by jouncing, irrepressible enthusiasm.