Thursday, 16 April 2026

BLADEN SUPASAX / GREAT BRITISH ATTIRE SINCE 1917


BLADEN
GREAT BRITISH ATTIRE SINCE 1917

For many years Bladen has been a closely guarded secret for the select few, with awareness (and occasional jacket) passed down from one generation to another.

But finally the time has come to introduce Bladen Original and Bladen 1917, our range of business suits, town coats and dress suits, to a slightly wider, but equally discerning clientele.
Bladen first caught the attention of the well heeled gentry in the final years of the Great War, in 1917.

Established by two brothers, William and Arthur Bladen, the company originally supplied riding wear to the country classes. Quality was always the watchword as the label grew, with jackets, breeches and cavalry twills made from the finest cloth the British Isles had to offer.

Today that quality is still what makes Bladen so special, with details and designs that continue to delight.

Now under the custodianship of Wensum Tailoring, the Bladen brand is available to discerning clientele through a growing network of gentleman’s outfitters.
With the highest standards of traditional craftsmanship, meticulous attention to detail, the finest fabrics and unique designs, all combined with a truly British heritage, Bladen is perhaps not for everyone. Thankfully.

CRAFTSMANSHIP

One cannot hurry quality. Which is why a Bladen jacket takes up to six weeks to create.

For those fascinated by such things, our interlinings are natural canvas, including pure horsehair, with a four piece chest set. For the rest of us that simply means your Bladen jacket will provide a near perfect and lasting fit across the chest and shoulders.

Linings are in satin or tinto filo, whilst our buttons are real horn, mother of pearl or corozo and are traditionally cross stitched. A flower loop provides the finishing touch to ensure your jacket is ready for any occasion.

All our trousers have a locker loop as standard whilst a curtain waistband with a rubber grip ensures your shirt is held in place .


We are especially proud that the British Isles has remained the preferred source for all of our fabrics since 1917, with the Scottish Borders in particular providing our most sought after cloths.

Truly a product of the landscape where they are made, there is nothing to match the fabrics from these mills whether in colour, quality, feel or enduring style.

Exclusive to Bladen are two very special fabrics - Supasax and Supasax Lite. Both use two-ply Saxony Woollen Yarn, whilst Supasax Lite is twisted with two-ply worsted yarn - to provide enhanced strength and lightness.

Reading about our fabrics can only ever tell you part of the story - the real magic is how the fabric feels to the touch and drapes to your shape - and for that you simply have to try one.









Tuesday, 14 April 2026

Vintage Pytchley Hacking Jacket. Brought to you by JEEVES


 Brought to you by JEEVES, TWEEDLAND ( Image: JEEVES IN PARIS, some years ago )


Pytchley hacking jackets are considered iconic, vintage British equestrian garments, highly regarded for their quality, tailoring, and durability in country sports. Renowned for producing top-tier tweed jackets and riding coats, the Pytchley brand has long been a favorite among traditional country equestrian customers, often compared to esteemed makers like Harry Hall.

 

Origins and Heritage

Equestrian Roots: The hacking jacket itself (or "hack") originated in the 18th/19th century as a practical coat for informal pleasure riding, distinct from formal hunting attire.

Pytchley's Role: Pytchley established itself as a premier tailor for these garments, creating robust jackets designed for riding, shooting, and country life.

Vintage Status: Today, original Pytchley jackets are considered "signature pieces" and are highly sought after by vintage collectors and lovers of traditional tweed.

Key Features of Pytchley Jackets

Hard-Wearing Material: Known for using durable, often thornproof, tweed fabric.

Tailored Design: Renowned for their tailored fit, often featuring a three-button design, slanted pockets, and a central vent at the back for comfort in the saddle.

Distinctive Details: Some Pytchley jackets are known for unique touches, such as grey striped tweed or horse head buttons.

Tailoring Quality: Often compared to the high quality found in Harry Hall riding wear, Pytchley is recognized as a staple of British heritage equestrian fashion.

For those looking for the robust, authentic and timeless Hacking Jacket, Pytchley offers a quality, often comparable to Harry Hall ...

This specimen was found in a Vintage shop where he pleaded to be recognized and rescued from Oblivion.

Greetings JEEVES ( António Sérgio Rosa de Carvalho )


Pytchley Tweeds

"Pytchley Tweed are an iconic vintage tweed and are highly desired by our tweed experts as they are truly a signature piece for most of our traditional country equestrian customers. Pytchley are renowned for tailored tweed jackets and equestrian horse-riding coats.

These jackets are hard wearing some with tight weaves, thornproof, or just made to last and ideally for the sporting gentleman who enjoys riding, shooting, hunting and the outside country life."

Pytchley Advertisement.





Monday, 13 April 2026

The "New Preppy" style in 2026 blends traditional 1980s Ivy League aesthetics with modern, looser silhouettes, emphasizing sustainable, durable, and comfortable clothing.

 


The "New Preppy" style in 2026 blends traditional 1980s Ivy League aesthetics with modern, looser silhouettes, emphasizing sustainable, durable, and comfortable clothing. Key trends include layering vests over T-shirts, oversized fits, cricket jumpers, and mixing high-end pieces with vintage finds. It's a return to classic, timeless prep.

 

Key Elements of Modern Preppy Style

Silhouettes: Moves away from "twee" and tight fits to more relaxed, 1990s-inspired Polo and J.Crew styles.

Key Items: Polo shirts, rugby shirts, cricket jumpers, blouson jackets, high-rise chinos, and tailored, unstructured suits.

Colors & Patterns: Traditional pastel colors (pink and green), alongside navy blue, argyle prints, and classic madras.

Accessories: Niche baseball caps (e.g., from resorts or tennis tournaments) and leather loafers.

Brands: Continued relevance of staples like Lacoste, J. Crew, and Ralph Lauren.

 

The Evolution of the "Handbook"

While Lisa Birnbach’s original Official Preppy Handbook (1980) defined the WASP elite, the modern iteration is more inclusive, focusing on personal style rather than status. The style is increasingly defined by a "casual-yet-put-together" look. The "new" prep is influenced by the "Ivy Style" movement, which emphasizes a timeless, comfortable approach to fashion.



writing in black and white

Sartorial Snapshot: Issue 07.

Field Notes From writing in black and white

Christine Morrison

Apr 04, 2026

https://writinginblackandwhite.substack.com/p/sartorial-snapshot-issue-07?selection=a2fe51b5-8020-42f8-946f-4eb4861ca20e#:~:text=As%20someone%20who%20bought%20Lisa%20Birnbach%E2%80%99s%20original%20book%20in%20October%201980%20and%20still%20treasures%20the%20dog-eared%20copy%2C%20I%20was%20initially%20conflicted%20about%20the%20remaking%20of%20the%20book

 

This Week: The New Preppy Handbook

 

A few nights ago, Paul Stuart — the 88-year-old brand known for its classic, high-end Ivy Prep styles — hosted the launch party for Dozer Presents: The New Prep, a preppy handbook project from Dozer Magazine founder Justinian Mason.

 

The New Prep is a general issue featuring Preppy Pete, a NYC-based fashion influencer, while The New Preppy Handbook is a more curated, NYC-focused edition, reminiscent of 2nd, a Japanese magazine that created their own version in 2023. Both sell for $35.

 

We all rejoiced when prep made a huge showing on the Spring 2026 runways — from higher-end designers: among them Thom Browne, Tory Burch, Miu Miu and Celine (where it’s been said Michael Rider is “rewriting the Preppy Handbook”) to our beloved heritage brands: all hail Ralph Lauren, J. Crew, Brooks Brothers and the revitalized J. Press under the preppy tutelage of its new Creative Director/President (formerly of Rowing Blazers), Jack Carlson.

 

As someone who bought Lisa Birnbach’s original book in October 1980 and still treasures the dog-eared copy, I was initially conflicted about the remaking of the book. Prep is personal. Cultural. It’s more than nostalgia or recycled trends.

 

But what strikes a chord about modern-day prep — and this new iteration of the book— is that it reinforces prep is not a uniform that requires a pedigree; it’s an even broader vocabulary. Prep has always signaled identity, taste and values. How we are interpreting it now, adapting the styles and weaving them into our chaotic lives, is something quieter: how we see ourselves.

 

As Tommy Hilfiger, who has been redefining the preppy aesthetic for decades, has said:

 

“I think preppy stands for optimism, confidence, energy and authenticity.”

 

Ralph Lauren has echoed this sentiment:

 

“People ask …does it have to do with class and money? It has to do with dreams.”

 

These iconic designers point to the same idea: Prep isn’t about where we came from, but about where we are going.

 

I believe this so wholeheartedly, it’s the essence of my fashion essay collection: what we wear shapes who we are—and who we’re becoming. Fashion is not about external validation but rather our internal compass. True, often raw emotions —grief, pride, fear, courage and more — are so often managed in what we choose to wear.

 

And in this moment of social, political and economic uncertainty, Prep offers something steady—structure, stability, a sense of order. But unlike retro trends that merely recycle the past (the 90s might over-indexing currently wouldn’t you say?), modern prep is more self-aware and more open. It honors tradition while allowing for individuality, blending history with the realities of how we actually live now.

 

So, pop your collar. Or don’t. The point isn’t perfection (it’s taken me decades to say this with conviction) but perspective. The best prep looks reflect how we move through the world — and the optimism we hold onto.


Sunday, 12 April 2026

Clothes Minded: Fashionable Essays About Finding Yourself by Christine Morrison


Clothes Minded: Fashionable Essays About Finding Yourself Paperback – December 4, 2025

by Christine Morrison (Author)

 

What do our clothes say about who we are — andwho we’re striving tobe?

 

In Clothes Minded: Fashionable Essays About Finding Yourself, renowned journalist Christine Morrison weaves together fashion, memory and identity in a collection that’s as emotionally resonant as it is sharply observed. With savvy and self-awareness, she explores how we use clothing not just to show up in the world, but to shape, survive, and sometimes, escape it. Growing up inspired by fashion magazines and The Official Preppy Handbook, Morrison worked in advertising and led in an executive role at Calvin Klein before reinventing herself as a writer for iconic fashion and beauty brands. She brings a rare blend of industry insight and personal vulnerability as she shares her journey through love, loss, marriage, motherhood, and the ongoing process of figuring out who she really is beneath the clothes.

 

Morrison also turns the lens outward, sharing candid reflections and style takeaways from some of fashion and beauty’s most respected voices—stylists, designers, founders, and creatives who know how personal style can shape a life, including Sarah Clary, April Gargiulo, Daryl K, Roz Kaur, Nikki Kule, Joyce Lee, Stacy London, Megan Papay, Meg Strachan, April Uchitel, Tiffany Wendel, and Meg Younger.

 

Whether you’re standing in front of your closet trying to figure out what to wear or wondering how our outfits tell our stories, look to Clothes Minded for a warm, funny, and deeply honest exploration of the layers we put on—and the people we keep discovering underneath.


Clothes Minded: Fashionable Essays About Finding Yourself by Christine Morrison

Clothes Minded: Fashionable Essays About Finding Yourself is a collection of personal essays by Christine Morrison, a former Calvin Klein executive and journalist. Published in December 2025, the book explores the intersection of fashion, memory, and identity, illustrating how clothing choices shape self-discovery.

 

Book Overview

Themes: The essays follow Morrison's life from the 1990s to the present, using her wardrobe as a "map" to navigate milestones like career changes, marriage, motherhood, and aging.

Structure: In addition to Morrison's personal stories, the book features an epilogue titled "Famous Last Words," which includes style reflections from fashion industry leaders such as Sarah Clary, Stacy London, and Joyce Lee.

Format: It is available in paperback and eBook formats, typically spanning approximately 218 pages.

 

About the Author

Christine Morrison is the creator of writing in black and white, a Substack newsletter focused on fashion and beauty through the lens of aging. Her professional background includes serving as a Vice President at Calvin Klein, and her journalistic work has appeared in The Washington Post and The Boston Globe.

 

Availability

You can find the book at several major retailers:

Amazon

Barnes & Noble

Bookshop.org



The Making of a Designer.

Joyce Lee’s Instinctual Rise to Creative Director

 

Christine Morrison

Apr 08, 2026

https://writinginblackandwhite.substack.com/p/the-making-of-a-designer

 

The ethos of Clothes Minded: Fashionable Essays About Finding Yourself is that fashion isn’t just an aesthetic choice. It reveals who we are and who we’re becoming. Over time, the pieces we’re drawn to—and experiment with—begin to carry meaning, quietly documenting our growth and shaping our identity.

 

For creative director Joyce Lee, those early sparks of curiosity and instinct set the course for a career defined by ingenuity, determination and a love for detail. I’m honored to feature her in the Clothes Minded Epilogue, aptly titled Famous Last Words, among voices of trailblazers in fashion and beauty reflecting on how discovering personal style shaped their lives. Joyce’s story is one of many featured in the book, which explores the powerful ways fashion influences who we are and who we aspire to be. Her story stayed with me — as it will with you:

 

What I love about Joyce’s story is how clearly it illustrates something from our own journeys: the things we’re drawn to when we’re young are rarely random. As Joyce has earned her place in fashion design after decades of work, I was curious about the role shoes play in her life today:

 

How do the pieces you gravitate toward today reflect who you’ve become — as a mother, as a full-time creative director?

 

These days I’m really drawn to pieces that feel thoughtful and well made. I care a lot about quality materials, good construction, and designs that can move with me throughout the day. My life has a lot of different parts now, so I like things that are versatile but still feel special.

 

I tend to gravitate toward clean lines, but I always want a little something extra. A detail, a proportion, or a subtle twist that gives it personality. That’s very much how I approach my work too, whether it’s for my brands or how I think about my Substack. It’s all filtered through the same lens.

 

Becoming a mom has definitely made me more intentional. I don’t want a lot of things, I just want the right things. Pieces that last, that feel good, and that really reflect who I am.

 

For Joyce Lee, it’s always been about the details.

In your early years, shoes felt like freedom, as much as freedom of expression. What do they represent to you now?

 

They still feel like freedom, just in a different way.

 

When I was younger, it was more about imagining what I could do, and who I could be. Shoes felt like a way to step into different versions of myself. Now it feels more grounded. It’s less about becoming and more about being.

 

Shoes still have that transformative quality, but now they’re supporting my real life. Running between things, traveling, working, being a mom. They have to function, but they also still carry that sense of identity.

 

I also think shoes hold a lot of memories. I can look at certain pairs and immediately remember a moment or a phase of my life. So they still represent freedom, but now it’s more about feeling comfortable and confident in who I already am.

 

How does someone who once made shoes out of soda rings think about the meaning of getting dressed now?

 

I think that mindset is still very much a part of me.

 

Making those jelly shoes was really just me trying to solve a problem in a creative way. I wanted something but couldn’t have it, so I figured out my own version. I still approach getting dressed like that.

 

It’s not always about having the perfect piece. It’s about seeing what you have and making it work in a way that feels like you. Sometimes that means investing in something beautiful that you’ll keep for a long time. Other times it’s about how you style it or make it your own.

 

I’ve always believed that personal style is something you build over time. It’s not handed to you. Getting dressed is still one of the ways I express that every day, just a little more refined now.

 

I couldn’t agree more. As I wrote in the last chapter of Clothes Minded:

 

My looks are a visual diary of every version of myself. And just a glance in my closet reveals how I’ve matured. I no longer need to seek attention; I am visible to those who matter. I don’t demand perfection. I celebrate presence. I don’t believe in “the one that got away”—not a boyfriend, a job or a blazer. I am exactly where I am meant to be, wearing what belongs on me.

 

Eleanor Roosevelt once said, “Happiness is not a goal; it’s a by-product of a life well lived.” The same goes for our style—it naturally emerges when we’re honest about who we are and the life we want to lead.