Saturday, 7 March 2026

REMEMBERING : Dan Cruickshank's House ... Spitalfields ... More than Architectural History ... a Philosophy of Life




Being myself an architectural historian and very much concerned with restoration issues ... I recognize entirely the "obsessions" of Dan Cruickshank.
It is much more than a "specialisation" ... it is a Way of Life ... it is also the quest for your "secret garden" and the decision to reside or to live "there" ... all your life ... it is real and unreal at the same time ... placed 'somewhere' in the twighlight ...
The name of this Neverland is in my case ... "Tweedland"
Yours ... Jeeves



ALISTAIR DUNCAN
STYLING SIAN WILLIAMS
PHOTOGRAPHS MARK SCOTT
Featured in the January 2011 issue of Period Living


Historian Dan Cruickshank has employed a very sensitive approach to the renovation of his old home that respects and preserves its heritage.
Authenticity has been a constant watchword for Dan Cruickshank as he sets about restoring his Georgian townhouse. While Dan is well known as a TV presenter, the face of cerebral BBC documentaries such as Around the World in 80 Treasures and Adventures in Architecture, first and foremost he’s an academic: an architectural historian who is deeply passionate about the preservation of old houses that showcase the building styles of bygone eras. ‘Old Georgian houses like mine have a very strong, benign presence,’ says Dan. ‘Far too many have been changed too much – modern things have been inserted: heating, lighting, or a ghastly power shower. The atmosphere that is present in these buildings has been destroyed.’
Humble origins
Two local builders, Mr Bunce and Mr Brown, built Dan’s four-storey home in Spitalfields in 1727 for a wealthy silk merchant. Dan bought it more than 30 years ago, and has been painstaking in keeping it faithful to the original spirit of the house ever since. Swathed in 18th-century decorative detail and crammed with interesting – if occasionally rickety – antique furniture, the house is a gem of a time capsule.
‘I bought my house because I was intrigued by Georgian buildings,’ Dan explains. ‘The houses on this terrace weren’t built by great patrons of the arts as conscious works of art, just by humble builders trying to make some money; by chance, they have created buildings of great beauty.
‘However, the house had been empty for many decades when I found it in the late 1970s,’ he continues. ‘It had been completely abandoned, and was full of rotting furniture left by the previous owners.’
Sensitive restoration
In spite of the fact that the house had moved a fair bit on its foundations over the years, and the whole structure was visibly warped, a surveyor confirmed that the skeleton of the building was in good order. The only structural work Dan needed to organise was the rebuilding of the parapet and the relaying of some roof tiles. Inside, however, the ceilings had collapsed throughout – water had poured through the entire house for many years. After it had been allowed to dry out (the old pine floorboards, thankfully, turned out to be ‘just like hardwood – tough and durable; no rot to be found’), Dan took it upon himself to do as much of the work as he could himself, although his approach was always cautious. He went from room to room, renovating each one in as authentic a manner as possible. ‘I set about repairing it as gently as I could,’ he says. ‘I didn’t want to yank up all the floorboards just for the sake of checking; I trusted the house.’
Original pine panelling adorns most of the rooms in the house, along with dados, cornicing, doors and architraves. ‘I looked for the old, Georgian paints and kept them wherever possible – the paint was pretty good on the top floor,’ he says. ‘I just cleaned it with white spirit and linseed oil. But when I needed to repaint elsewhere, I’d look for remnants of original colours – behind shutters or in cupboards – then try to copy them.’ He discovered that the ground floor had been green, so bought some pigments and mixed his own eggshell paint – back then, finding an existing shade that matched was tricky, he says. ‘This was the 1980s; it’s a lot easier to buy heritage paints these days.’
Eventually, after agonising over the thought of modernising too much, he decided to have electricity installed. ‘I wanted the wiring to be non-destructive and reversible, rather than chased aggressively into the panelling,’ Dan explains. ‘The electrician I found managed to lodge it discreetly beneath the woodwork.’
Intriguing discoveries
As he opened up the boarded windows he found, to his great delight, original 18th-century Crown glass – an early type of hand-blown window glass with a distinctive blue-green hue and rippled effect. ‘I find it incredible to think that during the Christmas of 1940, when the family that were living here were huddled in the basement and the east end of London was engulfed in a sea of flames, even the glass survived,’ Dan says.
Averse as he was to tampering with the building, he decided upon one major change to the ground floor sitting room – and this was only to return to the original layout. ‘I realised that the room had been altered in the 19th century,’ he explains. ‘A partition had been moved. I put it back to where it was in the 1720s. Curiously, I found a roll of newspaper, crumpled up and put into the corner of the room to stop a draught. It was from 1848 – that dated the alteration.’
There were other discoveries along the way. Dan came upon old visiting cards, children’s playing cards from the first half of the 20th century, old bottles and then, while repairing one fireplace, he uncovered late 18th-century Delft tiles amid the rubble. ‘The English made their own imitations of Dutch Delft,’ says Dan. ‘These were made in either Bristol or Liverpool.’
A passion for history
In addition to the period detail of the house, which Dan has restored as accurately as he can, he has chosen to furnish his home almost exclusively with antiques. Indeed, it is an Aladdin’s Cave of eye-catching, often rather eccentric historical artefacts. Adorning the walls are prints of architectural wonders, porcelain vases and oil paintings; and every room boasts quirky pieces that Dan has acquired on his globetrotting travels. His furniture has been sourced from junk shops and second-hand markets. Oak writing desks and coffee tables bestride Persian rugs, and high-backed 17th-century chairs are dotted around many rooms.
Dan’s determination to maintain the beauty of the past applies to every aspect of his home, be it the building or its contents. ‘This house is full of mystery,’ he says. ‘It’s a living being, with its own identity and past enshrined within its own fabric. I don’t want it to change; I want it to be lived in gently, so it survives.’











Tuesday, 3 March 2026

Walker Slater | Tweed Specialist Rooted in Scottish Heritage

THE WALKER SLATER STORY



THE WALKER SLATER STORY

https://www.walkerslater.com/our-story

 

Walker Slater was founded in 1989 in the Scottish Highlands before later settling in Edinburgh’s Old Town, which is where its headquarters are today. Despite now being over 30 years old, the company has not deviated from its mission, which is to champion the heritage and sustainability of tweed and woollen fabrics through contemporary and elegant clothing.

 

Established by Frances Slater and Paul Walker, who helms the brand as creative director, the company started out with humble beginnings of supplying remote communities with hard-wearing classic clothing to combat the harsh elements. It quickly transcended its roots in the Highlands by moving south and opening outposts in Edinburgh, Glasgow and London. Within each store, quaint and charming interiors and passionate staff harmoniously cultivate Walker Slater’s own, unique world and provide customers with an authentic taste of Scotland.

 

Ready-to-wear tailoring is the central part of the offering (made-to-measure is offered, also), with a range of flattering suit styles that appeal to a wide demographic and range of social settings, such as for weddings and business. To sit alongside it, there’s a comprehensive offering of lifestyle garments – from outerwear, shirts, knitwear, denim and silk accessories – for both men and women. Overall, quality reigns supreme, and with Walker’s timeless approach to understated design and deeply-rooted appreciation for fabrics that are sustainably made, its creations are crafted to last.

 

As a result of the fortune of being from Scotland, the palettes of Walker Slater’s collections are inspired by its natural beauty. From the age-old towns and cities with their rustic charm, to the most remote moors and lochs that make even the most intrepid traveller lost for words, the earthy landscapes that reflect off still waters, warm cityscapes, and infinite nuances between them can be seen each season.

 

A fundamental area of the business is working in close proximity with its range of suppliers and mills, most notably the world-renowned Harris Tweed Hebrides. Over the last three decades, Walker Slater has worked season on season with Harris Tweed to create a myriad exclusive fabrics. In addition to that, it also supports and promotes the lesser-known mills in The Borders, as well as specialist mills in Italy and beyond.

 

In 2017, Walker Slater launched a new line called Messrs, which aimed to appeal to a younger, more dynamic audience and it has been a roaring success. It does this through slimmer cuts and eclectic fabrics that are a refreshing and more youthful alternative to the traditional garments the mainline Walker Slater brand produces.

 

Over the years, Walker Slater has had the privilege of collaborating with, and creating garments for, a range of major sporting teams and organisations. Naturally, none fill the company with more pride than Scotland’s national football and rugby teams. In 2014, it worked directly with the Ryder Cup, which was hosted at the exceptional Gleneagles Hotel, and designed a dedicated collection with an exclusive Harris Tweed cloth. In addition, Walker Slater has also designed uniforms for a host of esteemed hotels across the United Kingdom and European Union.

 

With plans for expansion overseas in the next few years, most notably in Japan where there’s immense appreciation for traditional craft and textiles, Walker Slater will continue to do what it’s always done: create exceptional value for money items that are authentic and pure, and above all, represent Scotland on a global scale.

 

Paul Walker: The Walker Slater founder and designer .





Paul Walker: Designing 21st Century tweed

Tony McGuire
1:36 pm February 27, 2017


In a secret green space off of Edinburgh’s Grassmarket, Paul Walker’s studio is packed with tweeds of every imaginable pattern, colour and texture.


The Walker Slater founder and designer thinks the hand-loomed textile can become as diverse a fabric as the Italian denim.

“Tweed is almost becoming the denim of Scotland. The Italian’s do denim very well and Scots do tweed very well,” he says.

Traditional Harris tweed lends colours from the countryside – mossy greens, ocean blues and rugged mountainous browns are on every rail in Walker Slater’s two Edinburgh stores.

Aesthetics to the side for a moment, Paul remarks how tweed is equally functional and beautiful.

“It’s warm, it’s water repellant and it’s carelessly elegant,” he says.

Paul and business partner Frances Slater – a textile designer from Edinburgh – came together to “produce a melange of textiles, a partnership that you know now to be Walker Slater.

Originally working from the Highlands, he helped focus their efforts into tweed.

He recalls: “There was a realisation we had a great resource on our doorstep that wasn’t being utilised.

“I remember going down to the Borders and seeing some of the old Gardener’s fabrics – Gardeners was a mill at the time – and thinking ‘Whoa! These are fantastic’.

“We started making jacketing and it all moved forward from there.”

Borders tweed is generally much lighter a fabric than its Harris counterpart, and the pliable fabric led Paul and Frances to create their first three-piece suit.

Their range of clothing for men and women showcases the versatility of tweed, breathing new life and contemporary relevance into the cloth traditionally associated with country estates and hunting parties.

Milan, Rome, London, Paris and New York designers are all embracing Scottish tweed. Between 2009 and 2012, Scottish tweed output shot up from 450,000 meters to one million meters. Much of this global interest can be linked back to Scotland, designers like Walker Slater and the tweed industry’s own drive to stay relevant.

“The mills on Harris and in the Borders have done well getting the message out to the big players [in fashion] with a product they can buy into,” he says, adding “they buy in to a bit of Scotland with it.”

Walker Slater has enjoyed a boost from several high-profile collaborations with the Ryder Cup, Scottish Football and the Scottish Rugby Union teams, tailoring unique wardrobes for our national sides with homespun cloth.

Paul repeatedly exalts tweed’s rich colours and textures, but he also draws attention to some of its lesser-known charms: “There are things about tweed that you maybe wouldn’t expect.

“As a fabric and as a way of life it has a tremendous heritage. It’s protected by an act of parliament and specific to a sometimes-forgotten region of Scotland. Having been up there, you realise how important it is to the local economy and how it fits in to the way of life there.”

“Sometimes we’ve been notified a delivery might be late due to the good weather allowing Peat cutting to take place. The weavers go outside and cut their Peat for the next winter, so it has this human touch to it.”

Walker Slater designs set out to challenge the traditional tweed ensemble to keep the fabric relevant with modern fashion trends.  Of all his experimenting with the cloth, the lavish three-piece suit holds a special place in their history and development.

“We tried a lot of things – the development through from the really heavy tweeds where it didn’t work, right through to the Borders tweed using fine mixes of wool, cashmere and cotton, developing something that was very wearable in the daytime and for evening wear.”

“We keep to trends that help tweed maintain relevance with shapes and fits that fit in with our ethos which is ‘careless elegance’.

“Careless elegance is something which is really important, not a contrived look – you can pull it together, you can mix it up. and that’s where it becomes a bit rock and roll as well.”

Walker Slater Menswear and Womenswear stores can be found on Victoria Street, Edinburgh.

Edinburgh store: 20 Victoria Street, Edinburgh EH1 2HG / 01312 209750



Walker Slater (Covent Garden), 38 Great Queen Street, Covent Garden, London WC2B 5AA / 0203 7549787