Abercrombie & Fitch ex-CEO accused of exploiting
men for sex
By Rianna
Croxford, investigations correspondent
BBC News
and BBC Panorama
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-66889779
The ex-CEO of Abercrombie & Fitch and his British
partner face allegations of exploitation from men recruited for sex events they
hosted around the world.
A BBC
investigation found a highly organised network used a middleman to find young
men for the events with Mike Jeffries and Matthew Smith.
Eight men
told the BBC they attended these events, some of whom alleged they were
exploited or abused.
Mr Jeffries
and Mr Smith did not respond to requests for comment.
But the
couple's middleman denied any wrongdoing and said men went into these events
"with their eyes wide open".
Abercrombie
& Fitch (A&F) - which also owns the Hollister brand - said it was
"appalled and disgusted" by the alleged behaviour.
Two former
US prosecutors who independently reviewed documents and testimony uncovered by
the BBC have called for an investigation to determine whether charges for sex
trafficking could be brought. Under US law, sex trafficking includes getting an
adult to travel to another state or country to have sex for money by using
force, fraud or coercion.
Warning:
This story contains descriptions of sexual acts
Over two
decades from the 1990s, Mike Jeffries transformed A&F from a failing
heritage outfitter into a multi-billion-dollar teen retailer by selling sex
appeal, with preppy all-American shirtless male store models and provocative
billboards.
Once one of
America's highest-paid CEOs, he was a controversial figure who faced claims of
discrimination against staff, concerns about his lavish expenses and complaints
about the unofficial influence of his life partner, Matthew Smith, inside
A&F.
In 2014, Mr
Jeffries stepped down following declining sales and left with a retirement
package valued at around $25m (£20.5m), according to company filings at the
time.
How Jeffries used shirtless models to sell Abercrombie
The BBC has
now uncovered allegations that the fashion mogul exploited young adult men for
sex at events he hosted in his New York residences and luxurious hotels around
the world, including in London, Paris, Venice, and Marrakesh.
As part of
a two-year investigation, the BBC has spoken to 12 men who described attending
or organising events involving sex acts run for Mr Jeffries, 79, and his
British partner Mr Smith, 60, between 2009 and 2015.
The eight
men who attended the events said they were recruited by a middleman, who they
described as having a missing nose covered with a snakeskin patch. The BBC has
identified him as James Jacobson.
Watch Panorama's The Abercrombie Guys: The Dark
Side of Cool, on BBC iPlayer now and on BBC One on Monday at 21:00 BST.
Listen to the podcast series, World of Secrets:
Season 1 - The Abercrombie Guys, available on BBC Sounds from 21:00 BST.
The Abercrombie Guys: the Dark Side of Cool will
be releasing in the US on October 6 on BBC Select, available to audiences via
Amazon Prime Video Channels, the Apple TV app and The Roku Channel.
The BBC carried out extensive fact-checking of the
men's testimonies, which bore a striking number of similarities.
We obtained
documents - including emails, flight tickets and detailed travel itineraries -
that supported key points of the men's accounts. We also interviewed dozens of
other sources, including former household staff.
Half the
men who told the BBC about their recruitment alleged they had been initially
misled about the nature of the events or not told sex was involved. Others said
they understood the events would be sexual, but not exactly what was expected
of them. All were paid.
Several
told the BBC the middleman or other recruiters raised the possibility of
modelling opportunities with A&F. All except one said they felt harmed by
the experience.
David
Bradberry, then 23, said he was introduced in 2010 to Mr Jacobson by an agent
who described him as the gatekeeper to "the owners" of A&F, but
said there was no mention of sex. At their meeting, he said Mr Jacobson
suggested Bruce Weber - then A&F's official photographer - should take his
picture.
Then, Mr
Bradberry said, "Jim made it clear to me that unless I let him perform
oral sex on me, that I would not be meeting with Abercrombie & Fitch or
Mike Jeffries."
"I was
paralysed," he said. "It was like he was selling fame. And the price
was compliance." Mr Bradberry said he had been made to believe "this
is where everybody gets their start". He recalled that Mr Jacobson gave
him $500 and told him it was for his time.
Looking
back, he said this incident should have been "a red flag" but he
thought Mr Jacobson "was just a creepy old dude that I wouldn't have to
see again".
Mr
Bradberry accepted an invitation to a daytime event at Mr Jeffries' former home
in the Hamptons on New York's Long Island - recently sold for $29m. He said he
understood Mike Jeffries was a "powerful man" who could "make
his career". Ahead of the event, he said Jim told him to buy an outfit
with some A&F gift cards, which he said made it feel "legitimate"
and "official".
At the
Hamptons, Mr Bradberry said he spoke to Mr Jeffries and Mr Smith about his
aspirations to be an A&F model. Later, he said, Mr Jeffries held
"poppers" under his nose - a drug which can cause a strong head-rush
and disorientation - and later had sex with him.
Men who
attended these events told the BBC Mike Jeffries and Matthew Smith would engage
in sexual activity with about four men or "direct" them to have sex
with each other. Afterwards, the men said staff at the event handed them
envelopes filled with thousands of dollars in cash.
Mr
Bradberry said the "secluded" location and presence of Mr Jeffries'
personal staff, dressed in A&F uniforms, supervising events meant he
"didn't feel safe to say 'no' or 'I don't feel comfortable with
this'".
The BBC
investigation also uncovered details of the "well-oiled machine"
organising sex events for Mr Jeffries, in which:
"Recruiters" would find men to attend
his events and receive between $500 and $1,000 from Mr Jacobson for every
referral
Mr Jacobson, described by the men as the
"middleman" or "casting agent", found men for the sex
events. The BBC was told he forwarded photos of them to Mr Jeffries and Mr
Smith
Most of the men allege Mr Jacobson propositioned
or sexually "auditioned" them, by requesting or offering to perform
oral sex before being introduced to Mr Jeffries and Mr Smith
A personal "groomer" was hired to
intimately shave body hair from some of men attending events, an experience
some described as "dehumanising"
All the men said they were required to sign
non-disclosure agreements. They said they had little time to read it and were
not allowed to keep copies, but understood they would be sued if they spoke out
A small group of Mr Jeffries' personal staff, who
wore A&F uniforms, supervised the men - even during the sex acts - and
handed them money
It is alleged Mr Jeffries funded the entire
operation, including the money for referral fees, while Mr Smith organised the
cash payments
Domestic staff who worked in Mr Jeffries' former
Hamptons home told the BBC events were held there regularly at weekends. Some
said they were instructed to leave the premises every Saturday afternoon for
several years, leading them to believe something strange was taking place. One
former staffer said he understood it was because his boss was having
"playtime".
Barrett
Pall, a former model turned life coach and activist, said he felt pressured
into attending an event in the Hamptons in 2011. Then 22, he said he was
recruited by an older model, who received a referral fee, to be his
"replacement" for "some sort of sexual experience" with the
couple.
He said he
felt obliged to comply as the older man had been supporting him financially and
he felt indebted. Like the other men, he said initially he attended a
"test run" with Mr Jacobson.
Mr Pall
said the older model told him that "you don't have to do anything you
don't want to do" but suggested that "the further you go, the
better", and alluded to career opportunities. When he arrived at the
event, he said he felt under pressure to "perform". "How was I
going to leave? I didn't have a car," he said. "I had a chaperone
sitting and watching me."
Mr Pall
said one of the other men recruited for the event performed oral sex on him as
Mr Jeffries and Mr Smith watched. He said the couple then encouraged him to
come over to the bed and kiss Mr Jeffries. Later, two other men recruited for
the event had sex with the A&F boss and his partner, he added. At one
point, Mr Pall said Mr Jeffries was behind him, groping him.
"This
experience, I think it broke me," he said. "I think that this stole
any ounce of innocence that I had left. It mentally messed me up. But with the
language I now have today, I can sit here and tell you that I was taken
advantage of."
The largest
event described to the BBC was hosted in a private villa at a five-star hotel
in 2011, for which dozens of men were flown to Marrakesh. The BBC understands
Mr Jeffries and Mr Smith had also invited friends. Alex - who asked for his
name to be changed to protect his identity - said he was a struggling model
supporting his family back home when he was recruited as a dancer for the
event, where he expected he would have to strip.
Mr Jeffries
"took advantage of people in a very vulnerable point in their life,
especially when they're around these big cities, coming from small
America," Alex said. The former CEO was the "kingpin", he said.
"If it wasn't for him none of this would have existed."
Alex, a
straight man then in his 20s, said he was auditioned by Mr Jacobson, who
praised his dancing but demanded he "finish the job" by performing
oral sex on him. "I had debt, I wanted to support my family," said
Alex. "I performed the job and I was, like, disgusted."
Thinking
"the hardest part was out of the way", Alex flew to Marrakesh for the
event a few weeks later. But moments into his dance, he said, Mr Jeffries tried
to kiss him. "I was trying to be in it without offending him. I was
extremely uncomfortable," Alex said.
Eventually,
he said he went to hide in a back room where he fell asleep. Alex said he woke
up with a condom inside him and feared that the champagne he had been given
earlier had been spiked.
"When
I put things together, I believe there is a very good possibility I was drugged
and raped. I'll probably never, never know for sure the answer of what
happened," he said.
Some of the
men, including Alex and Mr Bradberry, said they attended more than one event,
having been convinced by Mr Jacobson that the next time would be easier or
hoping they would eventually be offered modelling work so "it all meant
something".
These
events "directly affected my self-esteem", said Mr Bradberry.
"My twenties were filled with anguish and struggle, anxiety,
depression." But he said he now lives a quieter life, "full of
hope".
Brad
Edwards, a civil lawyer who examined the BBC's evidence, said US prosecutors
should investigate whether what these "brave men" describe could be
sex trafficking.
Mr Edwards
said: "There may have been evidence of coercion for some of the men,
whereas others might not have felt the coercive tactics.
"Remember,
coercion is the reasonable belief that serious harm will be inflicted - and
serious harm could be reputational harm, financial harm, physical harm."
Mr Edwards
also said Mr Jeffries and Mr Smith might argue the men were consenting adults
and the fact that some had engaged in commercial sex in the past was "a
factor", although he said past actions were "really irrelevant"
to whether a particular commercial sex act was due to force, fraud or coercion.
He said
there was a "very high" burden of proof for prosecutors, however.
"Given
the stories of these brave men that have come forward, I think it's very
important that federal prosecutors look into this case," he said.
Elizabeth
Geddes, who was a federal prosecutor for more than 15 years and also reviewed
our findings, said: "There's certainly an argument that these young men
were subjected to potential coercion. I think there are grounds for a
prosecutor to open an investigation and look closely at this conduct to
determine if a criminal prosecution is warranted."
Mr Jacobson
- the middleman, now aged 70 - said in a statement through his lawyer that he
took offence at the suggestion of "any coercive, deceptive or forceful
behaviour on my part" and had "no knowledge of any such conduct by
others".
He said he
did not recall making promises of modelling opportunities. "Any encounter
I had was fully consensual, not coercive," he said. "Everyone I came
into contact with who attended these events went in with their eyes wide
open."
The BBC
made repeated attempts by letter, email and phone, over several weeks, to
contact Mr Jeffries and Mr Smith, inviting them to respond to a detailed list
of allegations to ensure they were fully aware of the claims against them. They
have not responded.
A&F,
which has said it considers Mr Jeffries its modern-day founder, told the BBC it
was "appalled and disgusted" by his alleged behaviour. It said new
leadership has transformed the company into "the values-driven
organisation we are today" and it has "zero tolerance for abuse,
harassment or discrimination of any kind".
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