Tuesday 5 November 2024

Her Majesty The Queen: Behind Closed Doors | ITV


Queen Camilla documentary Her Majesty: Behind Closed Doors confirms air date

 

The 90-minute documentary will see the Queen meeting survivors of domestic abuse and campaigners working to raise awareness.

 

James Hibbs Published: Wednesday, 30 October 2024 at 0:04

https://www.radiotimes.com/tv/documentaries/queen-camilla-documentary-confirms-date-newsupdate/

 

The first documentary to feature Queen Camilla since her coronation last year, Her Majesty The Queen: Behind Closed Doors, was announced in August, and we know now exactly when the 90-minute film will air.

 

The documentary, which will see the Queen meeting survivors of domestic abuse and campaigners working to raise awareness and understanding of the issue, will air at 9pm on Monday 11th November 2024 on ITV1 and ITVX.

 

This means viewers only have a couple of weeks to wait until they can see the documentary, which will follow the Queen over a year, as she attends official engagements and never-before-seen private meetings with domestic abuse survivors and change makers.

 

The Queen has been involved in spreading awareness of domestic and sexual violence for over a decade, and the film is also set to see her hosting roundtables with teenagers and celebrating International Women’s Day at Buckingham Palace, while it will explore why perpetrators abuse, asking how we can stop the cycle of abuse.

 

The film has been produced and directed by Angela Byrne and Kerene Barefield, with Barefield saying when it was first announced: "It has been a privilege to have been entrusted to produce this film and observe firsthand Her Majesty The Queen's work in the field of domestic abuse.

 

"Our aim was to not only highlight the devastation caused by domestic abuse in the UK, but also give a voice and re-empower the victims.

 

"The Queen is not alone in trying to 'obliterate' this curse, and we have been honoured to work with charities and services who work on the frontline to support survivors, rehabilitate victims and campaign for change.

 

"If we understand what it looks like, together we will be able to tackle domestic abuse and make a difference."

 

This isn't the only royal documentary set to air on ITV this year. In fact, today (Wednesday 30th October), a documentary called Prince William: We Can End Homelessness is set to air, which will focus on Homewards, Prince William's five-year programme that aims to show it is possible to end homelessness, starting with six locations across the UK.

 

Her Majesty The Queen: Behind Closed Doors will air on ITV1 and ITVX at 9pm on Monday 11th November.


Monday 4 November 2024

Nigel Cabourn: Legendary Creator of Vintage Collections

Nigel Cabourn / VIDEO: - Reveal his secret and his age | GlamUk



Nigel Cabourn is a British fashion designer known for his outerwear and vintage inspired clothing. He studied at Northumbria University between 1967 and 1971 and his studio and business is still based in the North East of England.

The collections are influenced by military clothing and vintage clothing, using fabrics such as Harris Tweed & Ventile.

The Army Gym is the Japanese shop for the Nigel Cabourn brands. In August 2008, Nigel Cabourn Marketing Ltd., was set up as a joint venture with Abahouse Holdings Co. Ltd., the joint owner of Outer Limits Co. Ltd., that makes the Nigel Cabourn ‘Main Line’ collection.




I don’t class myself as a ‘fashion designer’ as I don’t follow fashion. Everything I design comes from either a moment in history, an inspirational person or a vintage garment.For over 35 years I’ve been avidly collecting vintage military, sports, expedition and work wear clothing and books and have amassed thousands of pieces from all corners of the globe. I’m absolutely fascinated and excited by the fabric and details in these functional, comfortable and above all durable garments, which have on the whole, been created not by fashion designers but by technicians and scientists.For me product comes first. The fabrics and trims, the manufacturers we work with are all carefully chosen so we produce the best garments we can. At the end of the day my aim with each collection or collaboration is to create timeless styles that have the quality to last, get better with age and wear and that are still relevant in years to come. Clothing that people can wear for a lifetime then pass down to their children. – Nigel Cabourn











Vintage performers



SEPTEMBER 21, 2012 by: Carola Long

Does that parka on the catwalk look familiar? Is that military jacket a dead ringer for the one in Bridge Over the River Kwai? It’s no secret that many of the designs shown during fashion week will have been inspired by – or even copied from – vintage looks.

Now, menswear brands will get another source of retrospective inspiration courtesy of new book Vintage Menswear: A Collection from the Vintage Showroom. It’s a compendium of images and descriptions of clothing collected by Douglas Gunn and Roy Luckett, who run the Vintage Showroom, a service used by numerous designer and high street brands. Designers make appointments to visit the west London archive of historic menswear from around the world, or rent or buy clothes from the collection. The owners will also hunt down specific pieces – or do what co-owner Gunn calls inspiration work: “looking into a company’s history or buying up archive pieces”.

Though few brands will publicly admit to using the service, Gunn says, “If you are a menswear designer, chances are you have visited the Vintage Showroom or the website.”

“Certain designers and companies rely heavily on vintage pieces, sometimes from their own archives,” says Robert Leach, lecturer at Central Saint Martin’s College and the University of Westminster. “Think of companies like Burberry or Belstaff, with their long histories of trademark details that can be drawn on for inspiration.”

Indeed, pieces in the book – such as a 1930s striped boxing blazer, a 1950s mountain rucksack that wouldn’t look out of place in today’s Urban Outfitters, or a 1920s canvas parka that could have been plucked from Gap’s shelves – show how little menswear has changed.

The most the Vintage Showroom has spent on one item is £20,000 – on a submarine coat made in the 1930s for HMS Ursula. “The captain of the boat went to Barbour to get them to design a two-piece wax cotton suit,” says Gunn. “We spoke to Barbour but they didn’t want to sell theirs, and we spent a lot of time tracking one down.”

Nigel Cabourn, whose menswear line is based around British heritage clothing with a practical focus (for instance, the Everest parka, £2,200, in his current range is inspired by the one worn by Sir Edmund Hillary to scale Everest), is one of the few designers who will discuss his work with the Vintage Showroom. Indeed, he says he finds it invaluable. “For me it’s no secret because my brand is based around vintage designs, but some brands don’t want to expose how they got their ideas,” he says. “I quite often recognise the originals that inspired them.”

Cabourn says his designs are sometimes “very similar to historic pieces”, explaining that “actual clothing can tell you more [about a period] than a photo or film ... colour, fabric, weight, etc.”

Gunn says he has noticed that more brands are looking to build up their archives with early advertising books or fabrics in a bid to cultivate that all-important aura of heritage. After all, in the fashion industry, the past isn’t really a foreign country, and they don’t do things so differently there.

‘Vintage Menswear: a Collection from the Vintage Showroom’ by Josh Sims, Douglas Gunn, Roy Luckett (Laurence King, £30)




Sunday 3 November 2024

Revealed: King charging millions for NHS to use his land / King and Prince William’s estates ‘making millions from charities and public services’


King and Prince William’s estates ‘making millions from charities and public services’

 

Duchies of Cornwall and Lancaster likely to make at least £50m from leasing land to services such as NHS and schools, according to investigation

 

Richard Palmer

Sat 2 Nov 2024 19.50 GMT

https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2024/nov/02/king-and-prince-william-estates-millions-charities-public-services-nhs-leasing-land

 

King Charles and Prince William’s property empires are taking millions of pounds from cash-strapped charities and public services including the NHS, state schools and prisons, according to a new investigation.

 

The reports claim the Duchies of Lancaster and Cornwall, which are exempt from business taxes and used to fund the royals’ lifestyles and philanthropic work, are set to make at least £50m from leasing land to public services. The two duchies hold a total of more than 5,400 leases.

 

One 15-year deal will see Guy’s and St Thomas’ NHS hospital trust in London pay £11.4m to store its fleet of electric ambulances in a warehouse owned by the Duchy of Lancaster, the monarch’s 750-year-old estate.

 

The king will also make at least £28m from windfarms because the Duchy of Lancaster retains a feudal right to charge for cables crossing the foreshore, according to an investigation by Channel 4’s Dispatches and the Sunday Times.

 

William’s Duchy of Cornwall, the hereditary estate of the heir to the throne, has signed a £37m deal to lease Dartmoor prison for 25 years to the Ministry of Justice, which is liable for all repairs despite paying £1.5m a head for a jail empty of prisoners because of high levels of radon gas.

 

His estate also owns Camelford House, a 1960s tower block on the banks of the Thames, which has brought in at least £22m since 2005 from rents paid by charities and other tenants. Two cancer charities, Marie Curie and Macmillan – of which the king is a longstanding patron – have both recently moved out to smaller premises.

 

The Duchy of Cornwall has charged the Royal Navy more than £1m to build and use jetties and moor warships. It also charges the army to train on Dartmoor but the Ministry of Defence refused a Freedom of Information Act request asking how much it costs. The duchy also made more than £600,000 from the construction of a fire station and stands to get nearly £600,000 from rental agreements with six state schools.

 

In spite of the king and Prince William’s speeches and interventions on environmental issues, many residential properties let out by the royal estates are in breach of basic government energy efficiency standards.

 

The investigation found 14% of homes leased by the Duchy of Cornwall and 13% by the Duchy of Lancaster have an energy performance rating of F or G. Since 2020, it has been against the law for landlords to rent out properties that are rated below an E under the Minimum Energy Efficiency Standards regulations.

 

The Duchy of Lancaster said: “Over 87% of all duchy-let properties are rated E or above. The remainder are either awaiting scheduled improvement works or are exempted under UK legislation.”

 

The royal estates also have deals with mining and quarrying companies.

 

The investigation has prompted calls for a parliamentary investigation and for the two empires to be folded into the crown estate, which sends its profits to the government. The king and Prince William pay income tax on profits from the estates after business expenses have been deducted, but both now refuse to say how much.

 

 Critics say the estates, the income from which have been used by successive governments to keep the headline cost of the monarchy to the taxpayer down, enjoy a commercial advantage over rivals because they are exempt from corporation tax and capital gains tax.

 

Baroness Margaret Hodge, a former chair of the Commons public accounts committee, said the duchies should at least pay corporation tax. “This would be a brilliant time for the monarch to say, I’m going to be open, and I want to be treated as fairly as anybody,” she said.

 

Both duchies said they were commercial operations that complied with statutory requirements to disclose information. They also emphasised their efforts to become greener.

 

The Duchy of Lancaster said: “His majesty the king voluntarily pays tax on all income received from the duchy.”


Wednesday 30 October 2024

Who Is El Chapo’s Former Beauty Queen Wife? / When the wife of drug lord El Chapo takes to the catwalk in a wedding dress, she’s sending a message


When the wife of drug lord El Chapo takes to the catwalk in a wedding dress, she’s sending a message

Roberto Saviano

There was more to Emma Coronel’s turn at the Milan fashion show than most would have realised. It’s a cynical game of clues and signals

 


Sat 19 Oct 2024 10.00 BST

https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/oct/19/wife-drug-lord-el-chapo-catwalk-wedding-dress-emma-coronel-milan-fashion-show

 

In the midst of an important Italian fashion event, Emma Coronel Aispuro, who is a former beauty queen but no ordinary model, appeared on the Milan catwalk wearing a sumptuous wedding dress. The wife of Joaquín Archivaldo Guzmán Loera – better known by the nickname El Chapo, or “the shorty”, due to his short stature – made her appearance at Palazzo Serbelloni during Milan fashion week (which, incidentally, has officially distanced itself from her). Much has been written about the fact of her appearance. The remaining issue is why it happened and whether those who were complicit knew what they were complicit in.

 

Guzmán is considered the premier Mexican drug lord. Before his capture, he was head of the Sinaloa cartel. He has escaped from prison twice: in 2001 and then in 2015. Arrested again in 2016, he was sentenced to life imprisonment, which he is serving in Florence prison, Colorado.

 

I have extensively written about his criminal affairs, so much so that, on 6 October 2015, the Mexican television channel El Universal broadcast a video shot in La Piedrosa, in the hideout from which Guzmán had managed to escape shortly before the blitz by the police. In those images, you could clearly see, together with some personal effects including shirts and other clothing, the American edition of my book ZeroZeroZero: a book in which Guzmán was the absolute and undisputed protagonist. I followed the cocaine routes, and they led me to study Guzmán’s affairs.

 

The discovery of my book in Guzmán’s hideout tells us a lot about how careful the bosses are about how they are described. Appearances matter. Most probably, he had read it to understand exactly how his Sinaloa cartel was seen in civil society.

 

Emma Coronel is 35 years old and has been married to Guzmán since she was 18. She is originally from Durango, Mexico, and was the niece of Ignacio “Nacho” Coronel Villarreal, who was also known – until he was killed by the Mexican military – as the “King of Crystal”, a reference to his methamphetamine, which, at its best, took on the appearance of crystal. Nacho trafficked methamphetamine throughout the US, together with Guzmán, who spent a period of time on the run in Durango. It was there that he met Emma Coronel, they fell in love and were married on 2 July 2007 in La Angostura. Emma Coronel is 32 years younger than Guzmán, who already had eight children from two previous marriages; she was his third wife, and the couple had twin daughters.

 

In 2021, Coronel was sentenced to three years in prison in the US for complicity in her husband’s business dealings, and she served 31 months, 85% of the sentence, according to the federal law. It was a light sentence considering the illicit activities of the Sinaloa cartel and the murders that the boss had ordered. At least formally, Guzmán was able to keep her away from criminal activities.

 

It’s some journey from there to the catwalk, but April Black Diamond, the fashion designer who chose Coronel for Milan fashion week, responded to those who criticised that choice by saying: “I believe that everyone deserves a second chance, and that fashion is the perfect platform to highlight transformation, strength and resilience.”

 

But I question that. Has there really been a transformation? Has Coronel publicly distanced herself from the Sinaloa cartel? Hardly. Also, she did not cooperate with the justice authorities, denounce Guzmán’s sons or ever tell of what she knew. So why the second chance? She was, as a devoted wife, close to Guzmán while he flooded the US with drugs, while he ordered the killing, in 2017 in Culiacán, of the journalist Javier Valdez Cárdenas for his reporting on the Sinaloa cartel. And she was next to her husband when, as a fugitive, he was arrested in a residence in Mazatlán in 2014.

 

Coronel has stood by Guzmán in good times and bad: when in hiding and during the years of detention. It was Chapo Guzmán’s wife, the wife of a drug trafficker, who walked down the catwalk. The choice of the wedding dress was deliberate: a reminder of the boda real, the “royal wedding” celebrated in 2007 between her and Guzmán. She was saying that, despite her husband being in prison, despite the criminal consortium being shaken by an internal feud between Guzmán’s men and those loyal to El Mayo Zambada, the other Sinaloa cartel founder, their criminal organisation was still strong.

 

This is why, for them, sending this message was important. After all, it is not the first time that Guzmán and Coronel have used their clothing to send messages to the world, to the press, to the authorities and, above all, to the enemies of the cartel: to those who try to weaken it, to those who see it in decline.

 

Rewind to 2019, to Brooklyn courthouse in New York. I was there to follow the trial of Guzmán, who had been extradited to the US after his arrest in Mexico. During the trial, the texts that El Chapo had exchanged with his lover Agustina Cabanillas Acosta, known as “La Fiera”, were read in the courtroom. The boss, in those messages, described her as the most important woman in his life. He had financially supported her to open a beauty clinic in Mexico. This is not an irrelevant detail: drug trafficking bosses often invest in cosmetic surgery enterprises, because allowing women to redo their breasts, buttocks and cheekbones at reasonable prices but with good results generates consensus and gratitude.

 

Coronel was there in court when the embarrassing messages were read aloud, but as we watched her, she didn’t bat an eyelid. She wouldn’t answer questions as she left. We were all convinced that, after that public humiliation, she would never return to her husband’s trial.

 

But at the next hearing, she arrived dressed entirely in burgundy – the colour of blood, of burning passion. Burgundy suit, shirt, lipstick, nail polish and eyeshadow, all designed to match. She had never appeared in court dressed so flashily. Then Guzmán arrived, and we understood: he too was dressed in burgundy. The message was clear, addressed to us, addressed to the whole world: nothing and no one can divide us. This happened in 2019 in New York and this, most likely, is what 2024 in Milan was all about.

 

But if they are united, to what end? We can read various things into Coronel’s public appearance at Milan fashion week. It could be a united show of defiance against the authorities, but could it also be a coded announcement of her willingness to start collaborating with justice? What if the wedding dress also sanctioned Guzmán’s involvement in this new path? It’s not a far-off hypothesis. El Chapo Guzmán, undisputed lord of drug trafficking, could be ready to collaborate with US justice, finally determined to reveal all the existing relationships between Mexican business and politics.

 

We don’t know if that’s the case, but the couple are saying something. Thinking that Guzmán’s wife showed herself in public without a purpose is shallow thinking. It is not in the DNA of criminal organisations, where every move is calculated, where everything has a meaning. Where every gesture is a message that only needs to be interpreted. This is what happened at Milan fashion week.

 

Roberto Saviano is a writer and journalist