Saturday, 21 February 2026
Manuel II ... The Last King of Portugal.
Young Manuel was born in the last year of the reign of his grandfather, King Luís I; he was the third child, and last son, born to Carlos I of Portugal and Amélie of Orleans in the Palace of Belém, Lisbon, seven months before his father ascended the Portuguese throne. He was baptized a few days later, with his maternal grandfather as godfather, while former Emperor Pedro II of Brazil attended, recently having abdicated the throne of Brazil.
He received the traditional education bestowed on a member of the monarchy, without the political preoccupations that befell his older brother, who was destined by birth to become King. Although he was raised as member of the upper classes, and had tendencies towards arrogance, it is known that after ascending the throne he took a more public tone, and abandoned many of the customary protocols of the monarchy. At the age of six, he already spoke and wrote in French, as well as studying languages, history and music (under his teacher Alexandre Rey Colaço). From the beginning he demonstrated an inclination to literature and reading, which contrasted with his older brother, who was more interested in physical activities. In the style imposed by his great-grandparents (Queen Maria II and King Fernando II), Manuel received a proper education that included horse riding, fencing, rowing, tennis and gardening. He was a great admirer of music, listened to Beethoven and Wagner, and played the piano.
As a youngster, the Infante would play with the children of Count of Figueiró, the children of Count of Galveias and with the rest of the families of the Court in pleasant and cordial relations. In 1902, he was taught by Franz Kerausch (in literature Latin and German), later by Father João Damasceno Fiadeiro (in Portuguese history); Marques Leitão (in Mathematics); M. Boeyé (in French and French literature); Alfredo King (in English and English literature), Father Domingos Fructuoso (in Religion and Morals) and Alexandre Rey Colaço (his piano teacher).
He travelled in 1903 with his mother, Queen Amélie of Orleans and his brother to Egypt, on-board the royal yacht Amélia, expanding his understanding of ancient civilizations. Later in 1907, he began his studies in order to enter the Portuguese Naval Academy, in preparation to follow a career in the Navy.
Lisbon regicide
His future career in the Navy was abruptly shelved on February 1, 1908. On this day, the royal family returned from the palace of Vila Viçosa to Lisbon, travelling by coach to Barreiro and from there took a boat across the Tagus River and disembarked in Cais do Sodré, in central Lisbon. On their way to the royal palace, the carriage carrying King Carlos and his family passed through the Terreiro do Paço. While the royal family was crossing the square, shots were fired from the crowd by at least two men: Alfredo Costa and Manuel Buiça. It wasn't clear if the assassins were attempting to kill the King and Crown Prince, or King Carlos' prime minister, João Franco, who had dissolved Parliament and was ruling as a dictator. The murderers were shot on the spot by members of the royal bodyguard and later recognized as members of the Portuguese Republican Party. The King was killed; his heir, Crown Prince Luís Filipe, Prince Royal of Portugal was mortally wounded; Infante Manuel was hit in the arm and Queen Amélie of Orleans was miraculously unharmed. It was Amélie's quick thinking that saved her youngest son. About twenty minutes later, Prince Luis Filipe died, and days later Manuel was acclaimed King of Portugal. The young King, who had not been groomed to rule, sought to save the fragile position of the Braganza monarchy by dismissing the dictator João Franco and his entire cabinet in 1908. The ambitions of the various political parties made Manuel's short reign a turbulent one. But, even so, in free elections held on 28 August 1910, the republicans only won 14 seats in the legislature.
Monarchy
His first act was to meet with his Council of State, and request the resignation of João Franco, whose politics may have been responsible for the tragedy. He immediately appointed a government of national unity, presided by Admiral Francisco Joaquim Ferreira do Amaral. This quieted the republican momentum, but in retrospect was seen as weakness by the same republicans.
He solemnly opened the Royal Court Assembly on 6 May 1908 in the presence of national representatives, and invoked his support of the constitution: he would continue to remain faithful to the constitution, even in exile, when he was pressured to support other forms of government as part of a possible restoration. The King received general sympathy from the public, owing to the deaths of his father and older brother, and his ascendency to the throne under these tragic circumstances. Consequently, he was always protected by his mother, D. Amélia, and sought out the support of the experienced politician José Luciano de Castro. Judging that the direct intervention of King Carlos was a principal reason for the events of 1908, he declared that he would reign, but not govern.
For his part, the new King regularly attempted to increase the monarchy's connection with its subjects. The King visited several areas of the country: on the 8 November 1908 the King Manuel travelled to Oporto accompanied by his mother and other members of the Cortes. His trips also included stops in Braga, Viana do Castelo, Oliveira de Azeméis, Santo Tirso, Vila Nova de Gaia, Aveiro, Guimarães, Coimbra and Barcelos. During these visits his subjects were captivated by the young monarch, and the circumstances of his enthronement, and was received with sympathy. On 23 November he travelled to Espinho in order to attend the inauguration of the Vale do Vouga Railway, and seized the opportunity to visit the Royal Factory of Canned Food, Brandão Gomes Inc. Between 8 November and 4 December he had visited several populations, received various requests and ingratiated himself with the people for his candour and pious character.
The warm welcomes he received during his visits were countered by republicans. One republican, João Chagas, the anti-monarchist journalist and propagandist of the Republican Party, warned the King of the problems that would develop when he declared:
"...your Highness arrives too young into a very old world...!"
The "Questão Social
"During the 19th Century, many of the intellectuals and politicians were preoccupied with the growth of the urban proletariat as a consequence of the Industrial Revolution. In Portugal, owing to lower levels of industrialisation, this was not an important question, but it was exacerbated by an economic crisis and the interventions of Republican Party, who believed a Republic would resolve the problems. The reaction taken to analyze and find solutions to this phenomenon was the Questão Social (English: Social Question) of the times.
The Socialist Party was one of the main proponents, and had existed since 1875, but it never had representation in Parliament. This was not only because it was not popular, but also because the Republican Party was the principal body to channel radical discontent within the political system. The King made some initiatives that did not necessarily infringe his constitutional restrictions, but which created incentives for the Socialist Party to retract or diminish their support for the Republican Party. In 1909, D. Manuel invited the French sociologist, Léon Poinsard, to travel the country, examine the social environment, and report back to him. In his document, Léon defended that the only way to combat clientelism, created by the system of rotational governments, would be a reorganisation of the work and duties of the local administrations. Enthusiastic, the King wrote, on June 1909, to the President of the Council of Ministers (the Prime Minister) Wenceslau de Sousa Pereira de Lima, to make him aware of the reorganisation of the Socialist Party (under Alfredo Aquiles Monteverde) and to remind him of the importance of collaborating with the Socialists, "...so that, we will empty their supporters from the Republican Party, and orient them into a useful and productive force." Notwithstanding the contacts made by the government of Artur Alberto de Campos Henriques with the Socialist Azedo Gneco, Venceslau de Lima considered this difficult after the Congresso Nacional Operário, which was boycotted by anarchists and republicans. For their part, the Socialists were enthusiastic about Royal support between D. Manuel and Aquiles Monteverde. Monteverde would later inform the King of the failure of the October 1909 trade union congress, but little was formalised between the socialists and the government, although they supported the work of Poinsard. During the government of António Teixeira de Sousa, in July 1910, that the government created a commission to study the establishment of an Instituto de Trabalho Nacional (English: Institute of National Work), that had three socialists and included Azedo Gneco. However, Aquiles Monteverde would complain that the commission lacked the resources to be effective: specifically that permanent members and unlimited transport, in order for the Socialists to promote their propaganda. Manuel II informed the government, through the Minister of Public Works, that he agreed with the establishment of the Instituto de Trabalho Nacional, but by September, it was too late for the constitutional monarchy.
During his reign he visited many parts of northern Portugal, in addition to Spain, France and the United Kingdom, where he was appointed Knight of the Order of the Garter, in November 1909. He cultivated a foreign policy that was close to Great Britain, which was not only the geo-political strategy that his father maintained, but it also reinforced his position on the throne by having a strong ally. The court also considered the marriage of a King of the House of Braganza to an English princess would secure the protection of the United Kingdom in any impending conflict. But, the country's instability, the assassination of the King and Crown Prince, and the drawn-out negotiations that were ended with the death of Edward VII, ended these pretensions. The old British monarch, personal friend of D. Carlos, would have been the great protector of the House of Braganza, and without him, the liberal government of Britain had no interest in maintaining the monarchy in Portugal. He also received King Alfonso XIII of Spain in 1909, and Hermes da Fonseca, President-elect of Brazil in 1910.
Republican revolution
The stability of the government deteriorated; seven governments were established and fell in a period of 24 months. The monarchist parties continued to fragment, while the Republican Party continued to gain ground. The legislative elections on August 28, 1910 had elected 14 new representatives (resulting in an assembly that was divided: 9% Republican, 58% Government and 33% Opposition) which helped the revolutionary cause, but which made little importance since the Setubal Congress (on 24–25 April 1909) had determined that the Republicans would take power by force. The murder of a prominent republican precipitated the coup d'etat that had been so long in coming.
Between 4–5 October 1910, the Republican Revolution erupted in the streets of Lisbon. What started as a military coup commenced by soldiers, was joined by some civilians and municipal guards attacking the loyal garrisons and the royal palace, while the guns from a warship added to the cannonade. The Palace of Necessidades (then official residence of the young King) was bombarded, forcing D. Manuel to move to the Mafra National Palace, where he rendezvoused with his mother, Queen D. Amélia and his grandmother, the Queen Mother Maria Pia of Savoy. Strangely, popular reaction to the events did not materialize: pictures from the square in front of the City Hall in Lisbon (where the declaration of the Republic occurred) did not show an overwhelming multitude, and even some in the military were fearful that their actions would not be successful. One day later, once it was clear that the Republicans had taken the country, D. Manuel II decided to embark from Ericeira on the royal yacht Amélia IV for Oporto. It is unclear whether officials of the monarchy motivated D. Manuel to change his intentions,[8] or whether he was forced to change his destination en route: the Royal Family disembarked in Gibraltar shortly later, after they received notice that Oporto had fallen to the Republicans. The coup d'etat was complete, and the Royal Family departed for exile,[10] arriving in England, where he was received by King George V.
Relationships
During a visit to Paris in July 1909, the monarch met Gaby Deslys, the actress, and immediately began a relationship that would last until the end of Manuel II's reign. It was thought that after this first meeting the King sent Deslys a pearl necklace worth $70,000: more gifts soon followed, including a diamond necklace with black and white pearl drops set in a platinum band. Their relationship was anything but discreet (she would arrive before night at the Palácio das Necessidades and would pass through Portugal unnoticed); abroad, meanwhile, they were on the front pages of newspapers in Europe and North America, especially after he was deposed. In public interviews, usually on trips, Gaby Deslys never negated the obvious, but always refused to comment on her relationship with the King. After his exile, they would continue to meet, especially while she had stage engagements in London. When Gaby moved to New York, in the summer of 1911, their relationship cooled off; Gaby became involved with a fellow stage actor, and Manuel married in 1913 (although the actress would maintain her contacts with the ex-King's personal secretary, the Marquês do Lavradio.
In the spring of 1912, Manuel visited Switzerland, where he met Princess Agusta Victoria (his cousin) and was deeply impressed by her. In the following year, on September 4, 1913, D. Manuel married D. Augusta Vitória, Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen Princess (1890–1966), his cousin (she was the grand-daughter of the Infanta D. Antónia de Bragança), and daughter of Prince William, Prince of Hohenzollern. During the mass, which was celebrated in the Chapel of Sigmaringen Castle, D. Manuel, while wearing his Order of the Garter medallion and the sash of the Three Portuguese Orders, he stood on a crate containing soil imported from Portugal. The ceremony was presided by D. José Neto, Cardinal of Lisbon, then exiled in Seville, who had baptized the Prince Royal and assisted the Prince of Wales (Edward VIII) and King Afonso XIII of Spain, as well as representatives of the Royal Houses of Europe (including Spain, Germany, Italy, France and Romania, in addition to the principalities and German kingdoms). After festivities which lasted two days, the couple went on their honeymoon to Munich, where the Princess fell ill and withdrew from the public. The marriage, a calm and serene union, lasted until the death of the former King, but the couple did not have any children.
Exile
D. Manuel remained in his residence in Fulwell Park, Twickenham, near London and his English properties (and where his mother had been born). At Fulwell Park he tried to recreate a Portuguese environment, as the attempts to restore his throne (1911, 1912 and 1919) kept on failing. He remained active in the local community, attended services at the Catholic Church of St. James, and became godfather to several children. His influence in the area is recalled by a number of toponymic references: Manuel Road, Lisbon Avenue and Portugal Gardens. He followed political events of Portugal, while in the circle of familiars, such as local monarchist associations, and showed strong concern with the anarchy of the First Republic, fearing that it could provoke a Spanish intervention and risk the country's independence. Although considered exaggerated, one could not say that this concern was without foundation.
While in exile, there was one case where the former King's direct intervention had an effect[when?]. After the overthrow of the government of Gomes da Costa, by General Óscar Fragoso Carmona, Costa was appointed Ambassador to London. Due to the continued instability and rapid succession of ambassadors during this period, the British government refused to recognize the new official's credentials. As the ambassador was to negotiate the liquidation of the Portuguese debt to England, which was of great importance, the Minister of Foreign Affairs asked D. Manuel II to exercise his influence to clarify the situation. The former monarch was charmed by the opportunity to help his homeland and contacted many of his English contacts (including, probably, King George V) in order to resolve the dispute. Even in exile D. Manuel continued to be a patriot, going as far as declaring in his 1915 testament his intention to transfer his possessions to the Portuguese State, for the creation of a Museum and showing his interest in being buried in Portugal.
In the spring of 1912, Manuel visited Switzerland, where he met Princess Agusta Victoria (his cousin) and was deeply impressed by her. In the following year, on September 4, 1913, D. Manuel married D. Augusta Vitória, Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen Princess (1890–1966)
The ex-Monarch in the robes of a Knight of the Garter. Taken while he lived in Great Britain
The Last King of Portugal in The Pena Palace with his mother Queen Amélia
The Return of The Exiled King in 1933 to Portugal after his death in 1932 in England
He died unexpectedly in his residence on July 2, 1932, suffocated by an abnormal swelling in the vocal folds of his larynx, or tracheal oedema.[14] The Portuguese government, at that time led by António Oliveira de Salazar, authorized his burial in Lisbon, after a state funeral. His body arrived in Lisbon on 2 August 1932, on-board the British cruiser HMS Concord which had made the journey from England and sailed into the Tagus River to deliver the coffin of the former King. The body was received at Praça do Comércio, where a crowd of people had gathered to follow the coffin to São Vicente de Fora and the roads were inundated with people interested in seeing the funeral procession. His body was interned in the Royal Crypt of the Braganza Dynasty in the Monastery of São Vicente de Fora. By some he was given the nickname O Patriota (English: The Patriot), for his preoccupation with the national identity; O Desventurado (English: The Unfortunate), because he lost his throne to the Republic; and O Estudioso or O Bibliófilo (English: The Studious or The Bibliophile) due to his love for Portuguese literature. Monarchists, also referred to him as O Rei-Saudade (English: The Missed King), for the longing that was felt when the monarchy was abolished.
His death has been regarded as suspicious by some because of the fact that he had been playing tennis on 1 July and was apparently in excellent health. An incident surrounding his sudden death was mentioned in the autobiography of Harold Brust, a member of Scotland Yard Special Branch in charge of protecting public figures. In his memoirs, Brust speaks of an incident which probably occurred in 1931 in which he mentions an intruder in the grounds of Fulwell Park who, when arrested, the Police confirmed as being a prominent member of Portuguese republican terrorist group known as the Carbonária and was subsequently deported to Lisbon. To date the identity of the intruder has not been confirmed. Questions remain as to the reason for the man's intrusion.
Since both the Dover and Paris Pacts did not resolve the issue of succession, the lack of a direct heir and owing to the abolition of the monarchy, the Portuguese monarchy ended with Manuel's death. Manuel also made it clear that the branches of the Portuguese monarchy (including the Imperial family of Brazil, the Braganza-Orleans, and the descendants of the Duke of Loulé) ended with the last direct male heir to the House of Braganza. Still, the monarchist Integralismo Lusitano movement acclaimed Duarte Nuno, Duke of Braganza as King of Portugal, since Miguel I of Portugal, on the death of his grandchild lead the Portuguese Royal Family. Their justification, ironically, included the fact that both branches had met to determine the line of succession in Dover and Paris, even though those accords where both later repudiated.
After his death, Oliveira Salazar founded, with the sale of his London estate for development and from the proceeds of his remaining personal possessions and those of the House of Braganza, the Foundation of the House of Braganza.
Carlos I
King of Portugal and the Algarves
Reign 19 October 1889—1 February 1908
Carlos was born in Lisbon, Portugal, the son of King Luís and Queen Maria Pia of Savoy, daughter of Victor Emmanuel II, King of Italy. He had a brother, Infante Afonso, Duke of Porto. He was baptised with the names Carlos Fernando Luís Maria Víctor Miguel Rafael Gabriel Gonzaga Xavier Francisco de Assis José Simão.
His paternal first cousins included Frederick Augustus III of Saxony, Princess Maria Josepha of Saxony, Prince Wilhelm of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen and Ferdinand I of Romania.
His maternal first cousins included Napoléon Victor Bonaparte, Victor Emmanuel III of Italy, Emanuele Filiberto, 2nd Duke of Aosta, Vittorio Emanuele, Count of Turin, Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi, Umberto, Count of Salemi.
He had an intense education and was prepared to rule as a constitutional monarch. In 1883 he traveled to Italy, England, France and Germany where he increased his knowledge of the modern civilization of his time. In 1883, 1886 and 1888 he ruled as regent as his father was traveling in Europe, as it became tradition among the Portuguese constitutional kings. His father Luis I advised him to be modest and to study with focus.
His first bridal candidate was one of the daughters of Frederick III, German Emperor, but the issue of religion presented an insurmountable problem and the pressure of British diplomacy prevented the marriage. He then met and married Princess Amélie of Orléans, eldest daughter of Philippe, comte de Paris, pretender to the throne of France.
1908 Lisbon Regicide
The King, Queen and Prince Royal had been on a month-long[26] retreat in Vila Viçosa, in the Alentejo, where they routinely spent time hunting during the winter. Ironically, the Infante D. Manuel, the youngest son, had returned to Lisbon days earlier, in order to complete his studies. The previous events had forced King Carlos to cut his retreat short and return to Lisbon: the Royal Family caught the train from Vila Viçosa on the morning of February 1. During their trip, the train was temporarily derailed at the loop near Casa Branca, resulting in a delay of an hour. The royal carriage arrived in Barreiro at the end of the afternoon, whereby the Royal Family sailed on the D. Luís to the Terreiro do Paço in the center of Lisbon. On disembarking at the Estação Fluvial Sul e Sueste, around 5:00 in the afternoon, they were met by various members of the government, including Prime Minister João Franco, the Prince D. Manuel, and the King's brother, Afonso, Duke of Oporto. Even in a climate of tension, the monarch opted to travel by open-carriage, wearing his ceremonial uniform as Generalíssimo of the Army, in order to present an air of normality. By protocol, the carriage was accompanied by armed officers and a mounted cavalryman (Francisco Figueira Freire).
At the time, there were few people in the Terreiro do Paço as the carriage rounded the eastern part of the square when the first shot rang out. As reported later, a bearded assassin had walked into the middle of the road after the carriage had passed, removed a Winchester carbine rifle hidden in his cloak, knelt on one knee and fired at the King from 8 meters distance. The shot hit the King's neck, killing him immediately, while other gunmen in the square began to fire on the carriage from various points in the square as onlookers ran in panic. The driver, Bento Caparica, was hit in one hand. The original assassin, later identified as Manuel Buíça, a teacher expelled from the Army, continued to fire: his second shot clipped the shoulder of the monarch, who slumped to the right, his back lying to the left-side of the carriage. Taking advantage of this situation, a second assassin, Alfredo Costa (a clerk and editor), jumped onto the carriage rail and, standing at the height of the passengers, fired on the slumped body of the King. The Queen, then standing, attempted to strike back with the only available weapon, a bouquet of flowers, yelling: "Infames! Infames!"(English: Infamous! Infamous!].
The assassins then turned their attentions on the Prince Royal, Luís Filipe, who had stood to remove and fire his hidden revolver, but was quickly hit in the chest. The bullet, from a small-caliber revolver, did not exit his sternum nor was it fatal, and the Prince, without hesitation fired four rapid-shots at his attacker, who fell from the carriage-rail. But, as Luís Filipe stood to repel his attacker, he was visible to the attacker with the carbine rifle and was hit by a large-caliber shot that exited the top of his skull. The young Prince D. Manuel, protected by his mother during the events, tried to stop the bleeding using a handkerchief, but it quickly became soaked with his brother's blood.
As shots continued to cris-cross the square, Queen Amélia returned to her feet to yell for assistance. The Countess Figueiró, Viscount Asseca and Marquis Lavradio jumped on the landau to support the Crown Prince. The young Prince Manuel was hit in the arm, while the coach-driver was hit in the hand. The original assassin, Buíça, then attempted to fire another round, although it is unclear whether he was aiming for the Queen, Prince Manuel or other officials of the government. Regardless, he was stopped by the intervention of Henrique da Silva Valente, a soldier of the 12th Infantry, who had appeared in the square during the commotion. During his brief confrontation with Buíça, Silva Valente was shot in the leg, but was able to distract the assassin. The cavalry-officer, Francisco Figueira, remounted his horse and fired on Costa who, wounded by the Prince Royal, was arrested by officers. Moving on to Buíça, he wounded the assassin in the leg, who attempted to escape but was quickly immobilized.
The Lisbon Regicide as depicted in the French Press, showing that attackers and Queen Amelias response (February 1908)
The great States and Kingdoms of Europe were revolted, partly due to King Carlos's popularity, as much as the manner in which the assassination was planned and orchestrated. Newspapers around the world published images, some based on false descriptions and exaggerations, but all with the defiant Queen Amélia wielding a bouquet of flowers. In London, the newspapers exhibited photographs of the coffins covered in flowers, with the headline: "Lisbon’s shame!" The English monarch, Edward VII, a friend of the assassinated monarch and heir was known to have uttered:
"They murdered two gentlemen of the Order of the Garter in the street like dogs and in their own country no one cares!"
The new monarch requested the resignation of João Franco's government for not safeguarding the Royal Family, in context of the previous elevator conspiracy and the unpopular policies of his government. Although the Prime Minister had realized that his policies had made him a target, he was never aware the monarch was also targeted by dissidents. Presiding over the Council of State on the afternoon of January 2, with his hand on his chest and in wearing his military uniform, the young monarch confessed his inexperience and lack of preparation requesting aid from his loyal ministers.
The young King voted from the resignation of the João Franco and the formation of coalition government, later referred to as the Acclamation Government, presided by the independent Ferreira do Amaral. The new Prime Minister included in his cabinet members of the Regenerator and Progressive Parties, that formally ended the administrative dictatorship and reverted parliament to normalacy. In fact, Ferreira do Amaral completely abandoned the positions of the former-King: he annulled the dictatorial measures published earlier, liberated political prisoners, provided an amnesty for marines involved in the 1906 revolt, but also going as far as consenting to some Republican demands, including permission for pilgrimages to the tombs of the assassins (at one point about 22,000 people), an event organized by the Associação do Registo Civil (English: Association of the Civil Registry).
The King was also present at the Council Minister's meeting that enacted these measures, and which acclaimed the Marquês de Soveral as Ambassador to England. Close to the Royal Family, the marques also voted for the resignation of João Franco's government. But later, resuming his functions in England, he encountered the British monarch Edward VII in London, to which he stated:
"Well, what kind of country is that, in which you kill the King and Prince and the first thing to do is ask for the resignation of the Prime Minister? The revolution has triumphed, isn't it true?"
Later, the Marques would note: "It was then that I understood the error that we had committed."
Ironically, at his resignation João Franco gave the Republicans the argument that only they were responsible for the collapse of the administrative dictatorship. Initially hesitant, the Republicans proposed a cooperation pact between themselves and the regime, but later at their national Congress in Setúbal (April 24-25, 1909) they quickly decided on forcibly taking power. The initial hesitation was due to the party's structure; the Republican Party was a collection of disenfranchised interests, political movements and dissident groups. Some Republicans were sincerely shocked by the regicide, even if it meant regime change. Rural conservatives were afraid of the effects that such actions would have with their English allies. But the Republican party could not turn their backs on their supporters, the youth of Lisbon, already indoctrinated by the party's propaganda. Consequently, although the Party condemned the act publicly (as if obligated to), its leadership continued to support its base. Magalhães Lima would later declare to the public press in Paris: "I am pleased; yes, very well pleased, for my country, to which a little calm will be restored," repudiating any responsibility for the assassinations on the part of the Republican Party.
Friday, 20 February 2026
Thursday, 19 February 2026
Enigmatic aristocrat was ahead of his time, says It's a Sin star
Enigmatic
aristocrat was ahead of his time, says It's a Sin star
1 hour
ago
Oscar
Edwards
BBC Wales
https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/cj981k4ee7no
Callum
Scott Howells stars as the "icon" Henry Paget in a film inspired by
his life
It's a
Sin actor Callum Scott Howells said it was a "genuine honour" to
portray an eccentric 19th Century Welsh aristocrat who was "ahead of his
time".
The life
of Henry Paget will be the focus of the upcoming biopic Madfabulous which
charts the extraordinary life of the fifth Marquess of Anglesey.
Dubbed
the "dancing Marquess", Paget inherited Plas Newydd on Anglesey, his
family's ancestral home, along with a vast fortune, when his father died in
1898.
He
embarked on a life of excess and blew the equivalent of £60 million on
extravagant ventures - including converting the chapel to a performance space
to put on spectacular shows with elaborate costumes.
"He
was a cross between David Bowie and Marc Bolan," Howells told The Big
Issue.
"Gender
fluid and, later, an inspiration to so many."
At the
time, Paget's spending habits were considered foolish in a way that challenged
Edwardian society.
But he
has gone on to become "a bit of an icon" and is now seen as a wild
expression of individualism.
Howells,
from Pontypridd, said he fell in love with Paget, known as the "Dancing
Marquess", after reading the script for the film.
There
were many aspects of Paget's life that remained a mystery which made him an
"enigma", said Howells, including no conclusive evidence about his
sexuality.
"It
was never confirmed he was gay, because his diaries were destroyed and, of
course, homosexuality was illegal," he said.
"That's
what made this role so thrilling for me and I didn't want to impose a sexuality
on him."
The actor
said he spent "hours and hours" researching Paget's life, but
encouraged the audience to go and "discover the man for themselves"
when the film is released later this year.
It was
shot in just 31 days on Anglesey and in other north Wales locations, and the
mansion at Glynllifon estate in Caernarfon doubled as Plas Newydd.
Paget
would throw wild parties at the country house, which he renamed Anglesey
Castle, as well as hosting lavish stage shows at the property's former church
which was converted into a theatre.
Madfabulous
director, the Bafta Cymru-winning Celyn Jones, said the entry point for the
story was a black-and-white photograph of Paget dressed in one of his
flamboyant costumes.
Paget
spent millions on outfits for stage and entertaining
"Naturally,
we had an exact replica made for Callum to wear in the same pose," said
Jones.
"The
costumes were absolutely key to the movie - we couldn't just hire them in, each
one had to be handmade."
After
living a short life of decadence, Paget was left penniless and fled his debtors
by moving to Monaco where he died aged 29.
"It's
sad that Henry died so young, but he packed his life with so many
experiences," said Jones.
"This
was a man with what seemed like endless reserves of money, who just did
whatever he wanted."
Madfabulous
also stars Rupert Everett, Ruby Stokes and Neath-born Paul Rhys who appeared in
Saltburn.
‘The Bowie of his era’: new biopic charts wild life of cross-dressing Victorian peer
‘The
Bowie of his era’: new biopic charts wild life of cross-dressing Victorian peer
This
article is more than 1 year old
Madfabulous
explores story of flamboyant 19th-century marquess of Anglesey, and offers an
‘overdue celebration’ of his life
Vanessa
Thorpe Arts and media correspondent
Sun 24
Nov 2024 13.00 GMT
It’s the
costume drama plot with the startlingly up-to-date twist: the fifth marquess of
Anglesey, a scandalously extravagant, cross-dressing peer of the realm, who
cavorted around north Wales in the late 19th century, now has his own biopic –
and it is a tribute he surely would have relished. The makers of Madfabulous,
which has just filmed on location in Anglesey (Ynys Môn), believe their starry
version of his extraordinary story is an overdue celebration of the
non-conforming aristocrat, born Henry Paget and nicknamed “Toppy”.
Revealing
details of the opulent new film for the first time this weekend, the director
Celyn Jones said the germ of the project was the moment when he came across a
photograph of the flamboyant Paget dressed in one of his elaborate outfits –
and then Jones noticed the date: “I looked at the photo again, checked Henry’s
story and thought: hang on this is 1890 – and in Anglesey!”
Jones,
who grew up on the island off the Caernarfonshire coast, was intrigued. “I
realised this was like a David Bowie, or perhaps a Marc Bolan, but well before
their time. Henry’s story really is of The Man who Fell to Earth, since there
is no sense of where his ideas came from. He influenced so many people, with
all the photographs he took of himself in outlandish costumes. He effectively
distributed his own “selfies” before such a thing had ever been dreamed of. He
remains an influencer now too.”
The style
of the so-called “dancing marquess” has recently been cited as a major
influence on Harris Reed, the British-American designer and head of the Nina
Ricci fashion house. who is known for a “gender fluid” approach to contemporary
clothing.
Jones’s
new film, with a script written by another Anglesey local, Lisa Baker, is only
loosely based on Paget’s life because the truth is hard to establish. Not only
did Paget live well outside the established norms of the landed gentry, but his
personal papers are believed to have been destroyed by his family after his
death. What is clear is that he spent an inordinate amount of money very
quickly – much more than his entire inheritance, which would be worth around
£11m today.
“There is
not much to go on, so we are approximating, because it is difficult to nail
down anything about his life,” said Jones, who has cast the acclaimed It’s A
Sin actor Callum Scott Howells as Paget, his first lead role in a feature film.
The film
recreates the unorthodox festivities that Paget staged on his estate, Plas
Newydd, which he renamed Anglesey Castle. He was well known for throwing lavish
parties, known as butterfly balls, in which, clad in yards of pale silk, he
would dance wildly for guests. The Eton-educated marquess also set up a “Gaiety
Theatre” on the grounds and treated neighbouring islanders to spectacular
performances.
“I hadn’t
known about the butterfly balls, but reading about them I felt a spark of that
something I look out for – a moment in history that stands out,” said Jones,
who is also an actor and who has previously directed films including The
Vanishing and The Almond and the Seahorse with his Mad As Birds film company.
“I think
we have something extraordinary here in the performance of Callum,” he added.
The
25-year-old actor is also due to portray Holly Johnson in Relax, a film about
Frankie Goes to Hollywood. In Madfabulous, Howells stars alongside Rupert
Everett and Bridgerton’s Ruby Stokes, and he is supported by a cast including
Paul Rhys, Kevin Eldon and Louise Brealey, the Sherlock actor who recently
appeared on screen with Jones in the British musical Chuck Chuck Baby.
“Paul
Rhys is a genius, as all actors know, and he is a wonderful villain. The cast,
in fact, is almost like a classic Ealing comedy cast from the 1950s,” said
Jones. The director believes that although Paget behaved irresponsibly, his
openness to other people somehow combined with his apparent innocence to ensure
he was largely forgiven by those around him. He routinely ignored class
barriers as well as society’s prevalent dismissive attitude to women.
“He lived
to the full. However, he eventually paid the price for it all,” said the
director. “The one thing we do know is that Henry ended his life penniless in
the south of France.” After being made a bankrupt, owing the equivalent of
£70m, Paget died of tuberculosis at the age of 29.
“This
film, I hope, is a kind of love story,” said Jones, “But it is more about love
in its various guises, from passion, to lust, to platonic love and unrequited
love. And it is about love’s casualties.”
This is
the archive of The Observer up until 21/04/2025. The Observer is now owned and
operated by Tortoise Media.
Wednesday, 18 February 2026
Tuesday, 17 February 2026
Princess Diana was born into the Spencer family, one of Britain's most prominent aristocratic, noble families with deep ties to the monarchy ...
Princess
Diana was born into the Spencer family, one of Britain's most prominent
aristocratic, noble families with deep ties to the monarchy, often described as
having a longer, or at least equal, history to the royals. Raised at Park House
on the Sandringham estate, she was the daughter of John Spencer, 8th Earl
Spencer, and was Lady Diana Spencer before marrying Prince Charles in 1981.
Key
details about Diana and the Spencer family:
Aristocratic
Lineage: The Spencers trace their roots to the 16th century, building fortune
through sheep farming before entering the nobility in 1603.
Royal
Connections: The family has been connected with the Royal Family for centuries,
with her grandmothers serving as ladies-in-waiting to the Queen Mother. Diana
was an 11th cousin to Prince Charles.
Early
Life & Family: Born on July 1, 1961, Diana was the fourth of five children.
Her parents, John Spencer and Frances Roche, divorced after a contentious
separation when she was six. She had two older sisters, Sarah and Jane, and a
younger brother, Charles Spencer.
Connection
to Sandringham: The Spencer family had a home on the royal Sandringham estate,
allowing for close interaction with the Royal Family during her childhood.
Notable
Relatives: The family is related to Sir Winston Churchill.
Monday, 16 February 2026
Sunday, 15 February 2026
Eric Maggiori’s collection.
Eric Maggiori is a renowned journalist and
collector of vintage American workwear and military clothing, recognized as one
of the world's leading authorities in the field. His extensive private
collection serves as the primary source material for AVANT Magazine, a biannual
anthology he founded to document the history and craftsmanship of heritage
garments.
Primary Areas of Focus
Maggiori's collection spans the mid-19th century
to World War II, specifically focusing on pieces with deep historical
narratives.
American Workwear: Includes rare items from the
California Gold Rush and pioneer era, featuring brands like Sweet-Orr and
Peabody’s Overalls.
Militaria: Focuses on US Army fatigue uniforms
(1900–1945), US Navy denim outfits from WWII, and high-quality US Air Force
jackets.
Fabric & Patterns: A particular obsession is
Stifel fabric, a historic indigo-dyed "Wabash" cloth known for its
complex patterns and "boot" logo.
Western Wear: Covers the evolution of attire in
the American West, often illustrated by his brother, artist Mark Maggiori.
Documenting the Collection
The collection is primarily shared with the
public through AVANT Magazine and its special editions.
AVANT Magazine Presents: Eric Maggiori's
Collection: A 196-page special edition (limited to 1,000 copies) that focuses
exclusively on his best private pieces and the stories behind them.
Anthology Series: Various issues of AVANT act as
deep-dive guides into specific sections of his collection, such as "An
Anthology of French Workwear" and "An Anthology of American
Militaria".
Exhibitions: A portion of his collection was
featured in the "JEAN" exhibition at the Cité des sciences et de
l’industrie in Paris from 2020 to 2022.
Heritage Value
Maggiori views his collection not just as a set
of garments, but as a narrative of history and craftsmanship. Many items were
sourced from unique locations, such as 1880s Levi's pants discovered in old
California mines. His work aims to preserve the stories of the people who wore
these clothes, from Chinese immigrants during the Gold Rush to WWII sailors.
In this
first special issue of AVANT (“hors-série” in French), we focuses on Eric
Maggiori’s collection.
https://www.theavantmag.com/avant-magazine-shop/p/eric-maggioris-collection
Founder
of AVANT, Eric developed a passion for vintage clothing after a trip to Tokyo
in 2003. For ten years, he has collected American workwear and militaria, from
the Gold Rush period to World War II.
In this
publication, he opens the doors of his collection, and showcases the best
pieces he has been able to get his hands on. Including, when possible, the
story that comes with each item; because every piece of clothing has a story to
tell.
Printed
with a gold foil stamp. 196 pages of exclusive content. A limited edition of
1000 copies with a certificate.
Chapter I
: American Workwear
Gold Rush
and Pioneers
The Gold
Rush: everything about this period is fascinating. So are the miners clothing.
Workingmen
Why do
work clothes are so moving? Maybe because they still carry the weight of the
hard labor put in by their owners.
J.L.
Stifel and Sons
Thanks to
their exceptional fabric quality (and crazy boot logo), Stifel products have
reached an absolute state of grace.
Western
Wear
Western
fashion appeals to everyone’s subconscious; to the cultural and historical
background of the United States and its people.
Chapter
II : Military Clothing
US Army
The US
Army fatigue uniforms from 1900-1945 are, by far, Eric’s favorite items when it
comes to American militaria.
US Navy
Denim
outfits worn by US Navy soldiers during World War II had a strong unconscious
impact on the world after the War.
US Air
Force
There is
just something fascinating about the jackets worn by members of the US Air
Force. Maybe because they all reached for the sky?
And also…
One day
in Colorado
In 2015,
Eric explored an old mine in Cripple Creek, Colorado, with denim hunter Bryan
Kahtava.
Eric’s
collection on display in Paris
From
December 8, 2020 to January 22, 2022, part of Eric’s collection is on display
at the Cité des sciences et de l’industrie de Paris, in an exhibition titled
JEAN.
Interview
Eric also
wanted to share his vision of vintage clothing, its impact and its heritage.
Saturday, 14 February 2026
The sporran
The
sporran (/ˈspɒrən/; Scottish Gaelic for 'purse'), a traditional part
of male Scottish Highland dress, is a pouch that functions as a pocket for the
kilt. Made of leather or fur, the ornamentation of the sporran is chosen to
complement the formality of dress worn with it. The sporran is worn on a
leather strap or chain, conventionally positioned in front of the groin of the
wearer.
Since the
traditional kilt does not have pockets, the sporran serves as a wallet and
container for any other necessary personal items. It is essentially a remnant
of the common European medieval belt-pouch, superseded elsewhere as clothing
came to have pockets, but continuing in the Scottish Highlands because of the
lack of these accessories in traditional dress. The sporran hangs below the
belt buckle; and much effort is made to match their style and design. The kilt
belt buckle may be very ornate, and contain similar motifs to the sporran
cantle and the sgian dubh. Early sporrans would have been worn suspended from
the belt or on either of the hips, rather than hung from a separate strap in
front of the wearer.
When
driving a car, dancing, playing drums, or engaging in any activity where a
heavy pouch might encumber the wearer, the sporran may be turned around the
waist to let it hang on the hip in a more casual position.
Day
sporrans
Day
sporrans are usually brown leather shovel pouches with simple adornment. These
"day" sporrans often have three or more leather tassels and
frequently Celtic knot designs carved or embossed into the leather. This style
of traditional purse is convenient to use on a daily basis. This style is often
made entirely of leather, with a leather flap, front, and three tassels or
more. They are often embossed or hand-tooled with Celtic, thistle, or other
designs on the flap and body, and fasten with a stud or hook closure.
Dress
sporrans
Dress
sporrans can be larger than the day variety, and are often highly ornate.
Victorian examples were usually quite ostentatious, and much more elaborate
than the simple leather pouch of the 17th or 18th century. They may have
sterling or silver-plated cantles trimming the top of the pouch and a
fur-covered face with fur or hair tassels. The cantle may contain intricate
filigree or etchings of Celtic knots. The top of the cantle may have a set
stone, jewel, or emblems such as Saint Andrew, a thistle, Clan, or Masonic
symbols.
Full-dress
sporrans
This
style is regarded as the most formal type of sporran. It is an essential
attachment for those who wear kilts in special ceremonies and formal events. It
normally contains fur fronts, a fur gusset, 3–6 decorative fur tassels with
regular or cross chains, and a metal cantle at the top. The cantle arcs along
the top of the pouch and conceals a clasp, ordinarily made from pewter or
silver. It might be decorated with Celtic symbols such as the lion rampant,
thistle, stag, or Saltire. Some elaborate cantles may include gemstones, such
as garnets. This style commonly fastens at the rear with a stud on a small flap
that connects the front and rear of the sporran. It allows the wearer to carry
a range of items due to the larger size of this sporran.
Semi-dress
sporrans
Semi-dress
sporrans combine the same shape and design as the day-wear sporran and a less
formal version of the full dress sporran. They are often worn for semi-formal
occasions with Argyll outfits. Designs may decorate the leather flap of this
style, or a silver clan symbol or other insignia may adorn on the flap. The
body fur of this style is normally a hair hide rather than a loftier material
reserved for full dress sporrans. The basic figure is commonly included with a
fur front, leather gusset, three decorated fur tassels with regular or
cross-chains, and a leather flap at the top. Celtic or Scottish designs often
are featured on the flap, and may have pewter badges' decoration to raise the
design.
Full mask
sporrans
This
style is commonly made from the head of an animal such as the badger, otter,
fox, Scottish wildcat, pine marten, or other small animals.[citation needed]
The animal's head typically forms the front flap of the pouch, and the body of
the pouch is made from the same pelt. This style displays the Scottish
tradition, since the earliest pouches probably included the head with the pelt. Today, people do not wear this style
very often for standard formal occasions, though it may be worn in historic
re-enactments and festivals as a costume accessory.
Horsehair
sporrans
This
style is most commonly worn as part of regimental attire for the pipers or the
drummers.[citation needed] In general, it is one of the most dramatic and
biggest of dress-sporrans with a very formal style. A traditional horsehair
pouch extends just below the belt to just below the hem of the kilt.[citation
needed] The most ordinary pattern contains black horsehair tassels on a white
horsehair background. Pewter or silver cantle is also carved on the sporran.
This style made from horsehide rather than tail hair, are more able to keep
with the compact shape and decor of less showy, semi-dress versions.
Materials
and law
As
sporrans are typically made of animal skin, their production, ownership, and
transportation across borders may be regulated by legislation set to control
the trade of protected and endangered species. A 2007 BBC report on legislation
introduced by the Scottish Executive stated that sporran owners may need
licences to prove that the animals used in construction of their pouch
conformed to these regulations.
In 2009,
European politicians voted to ban the sale of seal products putting an end to
the use of seal in sporran production.
Tradition
Soldiers
did not wear sporrans very often in daily life. The main function of sporrans
were used as haversack, for each Highlander carried his own provision of
oatmeal—eating it if necessary, raw, or mixed with a little cold water—as did
Montrose in the dawn before the Battle of Inverlochy.[citation needed] To have
enough comfort for a soldier to be able to walk, the sporran usually would be
worn as high as possible. Soldiers normally could get a sporran from the
regimental office free of charge, as long as they gave it back when they left
the Regiment. However, some officers and sergeants had to pay and book their
own unique styles of sporrans. That sporran was their private property, no
matter if they still stayed and served in the Regiments.
For most
highlander regiments, they used different number of tassels to distinguish
their own unique symbol. For example, The Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders
regiment used six tassels on sporrans to differ with other highlanders'
regiments. The general rules for six tassels are: two at the top in a line, two
under them in a line, and two in the centre to hang below these, so that a line
drawn across the bottom of the side tassels would pass through the centre of
the centre tassels. The sporran-belt when on the man is to be cut to three
inches from the buckle, and to be cut to a point in the shoemaker's shop—it is
not to be doubled into the keeper; one keeper will be sufficient—and the point
of strap will be in the direction of the right hip, and the buckle will be worn
exactly over the spine and not to one side.
The
tradition of wearing sporran in the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders Regiment
is a bit different from the daily wearing of other highlanders. The official
description of the dress sporran is "engraved gilt top, five sided, square
edges, with centre in black enamel. On the centre, Boar's head and scroll.
Princess' Coronet on top with her Cypher, the cat and scroll similar to full
dress headdress. Six small gold bullion tassels."
Here are
the dress regulations to indicate; the dress sporran was not to exceed eleven
inches in length, and the badger-skin sporran no more than thirteen inches. The
dress sporran was not to have more than six tassels. Officers were permitted to
wear undress sporran resembling the men's. Goatskins with silver tassels were
differed as the style of the officers' sporran with other ranks. The knobs
(i.e. the bells) on the tassels of the officer's purse were ordered to the
gilt. The rank-and-file purse was of black hair with white tassels, and was
still larger and broader than formerly.
Typical
types
In terms
of historic records, there are six different types of sporran which were used
in the regimental events. The Badger-head sporrans were typically used by the
officers and sergeants. The horsehair sporrans were widely used in different
ranks. The swinging six sporrans were extremely popular for the soldiers.
Badger-head
sporran typically forms as the front flap of the pouch, and the body of the
pouch is made from the same pelt. From the year 1800, the badger skin probably
was a widely used material for sporrans and became a new fashion trend for the
officers and sergeants as in most Highland corps, opening in front, with a
straight narrow silver or brass top, edged with crimson leather, two rows of
small white tassels and silver bells, mounted on red leather and suspended by
twisted white leather thongs or cords. In ordinary occasions, officers and
sergeants started to wear a sporran of badger skin with the head and narrow
brass curved top, edged with black leather, and six white tassels in brass
cups.
The rank
and file wore similar ones of black or grey goatskin, but the white tassels had
red cords. The sporran had a white buff leather strap and was somewhat smaller
and squarer than the modern pattern. It was worn in the old fashion, well
braced up, close to the jacket. These sporrans, unlike the present day ones,
had a large roomy pouch, the opening being concealed by the flat top.
Horsehair
sporran was normally worn by pipers and drummers of the Regimental music band.
The most ordinary pattern contains black horsehair tassels on a white horsehair
background. Pewter or silver cantle is also carved on the sporran. Sometimes,
the pattern thistle decorated cantle and tassel tops. It's widely distinguished
as the most popular pattern of an officer's sporran with white horsehair
background, and normal soldier's with black horsehair background.
Swinging
six sporran is generally known as a "swinging six" due to the six
white horse hair tassels which hang from the front of the sporran, made of
black goatskin. Behind the brass cantle is a leather purse to keep money or
personal items in. The style of sporran was adopted as part of the Sutherland
Highlanders' uniform between 1823 and 1826 and was later worn as part of the
uniform of the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders Regiment after the 93rd and
91st amalgamated in 1881. This type of sporran was commonly worn by the
sergeants and soldiers.
White
sporran was issued as a buff coloured leather sporran that had to be coated in
a white liquid which dried to form a white surface (This often rubbed off onto
the front of the kilt). A regimental sporran badge was then attached to the
front. This style was only worn on limited occasions and did not replace the
swinging six sporrans or the other plain leather one, both of which continued
to be worn throughout this period. Most soldiers were happy when the white
sporran was no longer issued as part of the uniform of the Argyll and
Sutherland Highlanders.
Civilian
sporran worn by General Duncan Campbell of Lochnell. The sporran has a silver
cantle, a border decorated with thistle foliage, and a central coat of arms of
the Campbell of Lochnell family; six silver thread tassels; and, a white goat
hair covering on a white/light tan leather sporran edged in black leather.
Plain
leather sporran has become very popular today, as it is convenient to wear
daily. This style concentrates on practical function more than aesthetic value,
it only keeps the Regimental badge without six tassels and another decorative
pattern. This style is an essential accessory for the kilt to hold money, keys,
etc.
.jpeg)









.jpeg)

.jpeg)
.jpeg)












