Monday, 13 April 2026

The "New Preppy" style in 2026 blends traditional 1980s Ivy League aesthetics with modern, looser silhouettes, emphasizing sustainable, durable, and comfortable clothing.

 


The "New Preppy" style in 2026 blends traditional 1980s Ivy League aesthetics with modern, looser silhouettes, emphasizing sustainable, durable, and comfortable clothing. Key trends include layering vests over T-shirts, oversized fits, cricket jumpers, and mixing high-end pieces with vintage finds. It's a return to classic, timeless prep.

 

Key Elements of Modern Preppy Style

Silhouettes: Moves away from "twee" and tight fits to more relaxed, 1990s-inspired Polo and J.Crew styles.

Key Items: Polo shirts, rugby shirts, cricket jumpers, blouson jackets, high-rise chinos, and tailored, unstructured suits.

Colors & Patterns: Traditional pastel colors (pink and green), alongside navy blue, argyle prints, and classic madras.

Accessories: Niche baseball caps (e.g., from resorts or tennis tournaments) and leather loafers.

Brands: Continued relevance of staples like Lacoste, J. Crew, and Ralph Lauren.

 

The Evolution of the "Handbook"

While Lisa Birnbach’s original Official Preppy Handbook (1980) defined the WASP elite, the modern iteration is more inclusive, focusing on personal style rather than status. The style is increasingly defined by a "casual-yet-put-together" look. The "new" prep is influenced by the "Ivy Style" movement, which emphasizes a timeless, comfortable approach to fashion.



writing in black and white

Sartorial Snapshot: Issue 07.

Field Notes From writing in black and white

Christine Morrison

Apr 04, 2026

https://writinginblackandwhite.substack.com/p/sartorial-snapshot-issue-07?selection=a2fe51b5-8020-42f8-946f-4eb4861ca20e#:~:text=As%20someone%20who%20bought%20Lisa%20Birnbach%E2%80%99s%20original%20book%20in%20October%201980%20and%20still%20treasures%20the%20dog-eared%20copy%2C%20I%20was%20initially%20conflicted%20about%20the%20remaking%20of%20the%20book

 

This Week: The New Preppy Handbook

 

A few nights ago, Paul Stuart — the 88-year-old brand known for its classic, high-end Ivy Prep styles — hosted the launch party for Dozer Presents: The New Prep, a preppy handbook project from Dozer Magazine founder Justinian Mason.

 

The New Prep is a general issue featuring Preppy Pete, a NYC-based fashion influencer, while The New Preppy Handbook is a more curated, NYC-focused edition, reminiscent of 2nd, a Japanese magazine that created their own version in 2023. Both sell for $35.

 

We all rejoiced when prep made a huge showing on the Spring 2026 runways — from higher-end designers: among them Thom Browne, Tory Burch, Miu Miu and Celine (where it’s been said Michael Rider is “rewriting the Preppy Handbook”) to our beloved heritage brands: all hail Ralph Lauren, J. Crew, Brooks Brothers and the revitalized J. Press under the preppy tutelage of its new Creative Director/President (formerly of Rowing Blazers), Jack Carlson.

 

As someone who bought Lisa Birnbach’s original book in October 1980 and still treasures the dog-eared copy, I was initially conflicted about the remaking of the book. Prep is personal. Cultural. It’s more than nostalgia or recycled trends.

 

But what strikes a chord about modern-day prep — and this new iteration of the book— is that it reinforces prep is not a uniform that requires a pedigree; it’s an even broader vocabulary. Prep has always signaled identity, taste and values. How we are interpreting it now, adapting the styles and weaving them into our chaotic lives, is something quieter: how we see ourselves.

 

As Tommy Hilfiger, who has been redefining the preppy aesthetic for decades, has said:

 

“I think preppy stands for optimism, confidence, energy and authenticity.”

 

Ralph Lauren has echoed this sentiment:

 

“People ask …does it have to do with class and money? It has to do with dreams.”

 

These iconic designers point to the same idea: Prep isn’t about where we came from, but about where we are going.

 

I believe this so wholeheartedly, it’s the essence of my fashion essay collection: what we wear shapes who we are—and who we’re becoming. Fashion is not about external validation but rather our internal compass. True, often raw emotions —grief, pride, fear, courage and more — are so often managed in what we choose to wear.

 

And in this moment of social, political and economic uncertainty, Prep offers something steady—structure, stability, a sense of order. But unlike retro trends that merely recycle the past (the 90s might over-indexing currently wouldn’t you say?), modern prep is more self-aware and more open. It honors tradition while allowing for individuality, blending history with the realities of how we actually live now.

 

So, pop your collar. Or don’t. The point isn’t perfection (it’s taken me decades to say this with conviction) but perspective. The best prep looks reflect how we move through the world — and the optimism we hold onto.


Sunday, 12 April 2026

Clothes Minded: Fashionable Essays About Finding Yourself by Christine Morrison


Clothes Minded: Fashionable Essays About Finding Yourself Paperback – December 4, 2025

by Christine Morrison (Author)

 

What do our clothes say about who we are — andwho we’re striving tobe?

 

In Clothes Minded: Fashionable Essays About Finding Yourself, renowned journalist Christine Morrison weaves together fashion, memory and identity in a collection that’s as emotionally resonant as it is sharply observed. With savvy and self-awareness, she explores how we use clothing not just to show up in the world, but to shape, survive, and sometimes, escape it. Growing up inspired by fashion magazines and The Official Preppy Handbook, Morrison worked in advertising and led in an executive role at Calvin Klein before reinventing herself as a writer for iconic fashion and beauty brands. She brings a rare blend of industry insight and personal vulnerability as she shares her journey through love, loss, marriage, motherhood, and the ongoing process of figuring out who she really is beneath the clothes.

 

Morrison also turns the lens outward, sharing candid reflections and style takeaways from some of fashion and beauty’s most respected voices—stylists, designers, founders, and creatives who know how personal style can shape a life, including Sarah Clary, April Gargiulo, Daryl K, Roz Kaur, Nikki Kule, Joyce Lee, Stacy London, Megan Papay, Meg Strachan, April Uchitel, Tiffany Wendel, and Meg Younger.

 

Whether you’re standing in front of your closet trying to figure out what to wear or wondering how our outfits tell our stories, look to Clothes Minded for a warm, funny, and deeply honest exploration of the layers we put on—and the people we keep discovering underneath.


Clothes Minded: Fashionable Essays About Finding Yourself by Christine Morrison

Clothes Minded: Fashionable Essays About Finding Yourself is a collection of personal essays by Christine Morrison, a former Calvin Klein executive and journalist. Published in December 2025, the book explores the intersection of fashion, memory, and identity, illustrating how clothing choices shape self-discovery.

 

Book Overview

Themes: The essays follow Morrison's life from the 1990s to the present, using her wardrobe as a "map" to navigate milestones like career changes, marriage, motherhood, and aging.

Structure: In addition to Morrison's personal stories, the book features an epilogue titled "Famous Last Words," which includes style reflections from fashion industry leaders such as Sarah Clary, Stacy London, and Joyce Lee.

Format: It is available in paperback and eBook formats, typically spanning approximately 218 pages.

 

About the Author

Christine Morrison is the creator of writing in black and white, a Substack newsletter focused on fashion and beauty through the lens of aging. Her professional background includes serving as a Vice President at Calvin Klein, and her journalistic work has appeared in The Washington Post and The Boston Globe.

 

Availability

You can find the book at several major retailers:

Amazon

Barnes & Noble

Bookshop.org



The Making of a Designer.

Joyce Lee’s Instinctual Rise to Creative Director

 

Christine Morrison

Apr 08, 2026

https://writinginblackandwhite.substack.com/p/the-making-of-a-designer

 

The ethos of Clothes Minded: Fashionable Essays About Finding Yourself is that fashion isn’t just an aesthetic choice. It reveals who we are and who we’re becoming. Over time, the pieces we’re drawn to—and experiment with—begin to carry meaning, quietly documenting our growth and shaping our identity.

 

For creative director Joyce Lee, those early sparks of curiosity and instinct set the course for a career defined by ingenuity, determination and a love for detail. I’m honored to feature her in the Clothes Minded Epilogue, aptly titled Famous Last Words, among voices of trailblazers in fashion and beauty reflecting on how discovering personal style shaped their lives. Joyce’s story is one of many featured in the book, which explores the powerful ways fashion influences who we are and who we aspire to be. Her story stayed with me — as it will with you:

 

What I love about Joyce’s story is how clearly it illustrates something from our own journeys: the things we’re drawn to when we’re young are rarely random. As Joyce has earned her place in fashion design after decades of work, I was curious about the role shoes play in her life today:

 

How do the pieces you gravitate toward today reflect who you’ve become — as a mother, as a full-time creative director?

 

These days I’m really drawn to pieces that feel thoughtful and well made. I care a lot about quality materials, good construction, and designs that can move with me throughout the day. My life has a lot of different parts now, so I like things that are versatile but still feel special.

 

I tend to gravitate toward clean lines, but I always want a little something extra. A detail, a proportion, or a subtle twist that gives it personality. That’s very much how I approach my work too, whether it’s for my brands or how I think about my Substack. It’s all filtered through the same lens.

 

Becoming a mom has definitely made me more intentional. I don’t want a lot of things, I just want the right things. Pieces that last, that feel good, and that really reflect who I am.

 

For Joyce Lee, it’s always been about the details.

In your early years, shoes felt like freedom, as much as freedom of expression. What do they represent to you now?

 

They still feel like freedom, just in a different way.

 

When I was younger, it was more about imagining what I could do, and who I could be. Shoes felt like a way to step into different versions of myself. Now it feels more grounded. It’s less about becoming and more about being.

 

Shoes still have that transformative quality, but now they’re supporting my real life. Running between things, traveling, working, being a mom. They have to function, but they also still carry that sense of identity.

 

I also think shoes hold a lot of memories. I can look at certain pairs and immediately remember a moment or a phase of my life. So they still represent freedom, but now it’s more about feeling comfortable and confident in who I already am.

 

How does someone who once made shoes out of soda rings think about the meaning of getting dressed now?

 

I think that mindset is still very much a part of me.

 

Making those jelly shoes was really just me trying to solve a problem in a creative way. I wanted something but couldn’t have it, so I figured out my own version. I still approach getting dressed like that.

 

It’s not always about having the perfect piece. It’s about seeing what you have and making it work in a way that feels like you. Sometimes that means investing in something beautiful that you’ll keep for a long time. Other times it’s about how you style it or make it your own.

 

I’ve always believed that personal style is something you build over time. It’s not handed to you. Getting dressed is still one of the ways I express that every day, just a little more refined now.

 

I couldn’t agree more. As I wrote in the last chapter of Clothes Minded:

 

My looks are a visual diary of every version of myself. And just a glance in my closet reveals how I’ve matured. I no longer need to seek attention; I am visible to those who matter. I don’t demand perfection. I celebrate presence. I don’t believe in “the one that got away”—not a boyfriend, a job or a blazer. I am exactly where I am meant to be, wearing what belongs on me.

 

Eleanor Roosevelt once said, “Happiness is not a goal; it’s a by-product of a life well lived.” The same goes for our style—it naturally emerges when we’re honest about who we are and the life we want to lead.


Wednesday, 8 April 2026

Anna Wintour appears alongside Meryl Streep on the cover of Vogue

 

Anna Wintour shares Vogue cover with Hollywood doppelganger Meryl Streep

 


Anna Wintour shares Vogue cover with Hollywood doppelganger Meryl Streep

 

Vogue’s global editorial director says Streep’s character in The Devil Wears Prada ‘distant’ from the real her

 

Sammy Gecsoyler

Tue 7 Apr 2026 19.35 BST

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2026/apr/07/former-vogue-editor-anna-wintour-cover-meryl-streep

 

After more than 30 years helming Vogue, and becoming a pop icon in the process, Anna Wintour has graced the cover of the fashion magazine alongside her Hollywood doppelganger, Meryl Streep.

 

The global editorial director of Vogue is photographed by Annie Leibovitz alongside Streep, who plays Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada, a brash, ruthless editor of a fashion magazine thought to be based on Wintour.

 

In an interview by the Barbie director, Greta Gerwig, Wintour said it was “such an honour to be played by Meryl” but suggested the character of Priestly was “distant” from the real Wintour. She called the character an “extraordinary gift”.

 

She said: “I like my age. I feel as alive, excited and aware as ever, and I like to learn from my children and from all my teams around the world. It’s always exciting.

 

“And I think with experience, you have a sense of balance and proportion, and you know that life is not perfect and that things will go wrong and you’re just going to give it your best shot. But if it doesn’t work, you have to move on. I feel age is actually an advantage.”

 

Asked how she would feel about swapping jobs with Streep, Wintour said: “There’s no way. I have no gifts. I have absolutely no gifts at all. I can’t sing, I can’t dance, I can’t act, I’m useless with my hands, I can’t cook, I certainly can’t sew.”

 

The Devil Wears Prada is based on the novel of the same name by Lauren Weisberger, who had been Wintour’s assistant at Vogue. The film starred Anne Hathaway as an aspiring reporter who secures a post as a lackey to the ice-cold editor of the fictional publication Runway. The Devil Wears Prada 2, a sequel to the 2006 original, is out in cinemas next month.

 

Wintour has previously given a more mixed reaction to the character. Speaking to the New Yorker editor, David Remnick, on a podcast, she said: “I went to the premiere wearing Prada, completely having no idea what the film was going to be about.”

 

Remnick suggested it was “cartoonish”, to which Wintour agreed, adding: “Yes, a caricature.” But Wintour said she was surprised by the subtlety of the portrayal, and impressed more generally by the film.

 

“I found it highly enjoyable. It was very funny,” she said. “Miuccia [Prada] and I talk about it a lot, and I say to her: ‘Well, it was really good for you.’”

 

Wintour and Streep may share more than a Hollywood portrayal. A genealogy report by Ancestry has claimed they are sixth cousins.

Saturday, 4 April 2026

The Gentleman Factory - Eton College BBC 1980

From Teddy Boys to the Tardy Book: What Eton was really like in the Good Old Days

 


Features

From Teddy Boys to the Tardy Book: What Eton was really like in the Good Old Days

 

Nicky Haslam, who attended Eton in the Fifties, recalls the days of beaks, fag-masters and dames

 

By Tatler

13 August 2018

Eton in the Fifties

https://www.tatler.com/article/obsoletonians-eton-in-the-fifties

 

We were a fairly uniform lot, the intake to Eton in the first years of the 1950s. Echoes – even visions – of the war shaped our youthful minds. Bomb damage still blighted cities, tattered blackouts still flapped on buildings, rationing was still in force. The angular modernity of the Festival of Britain had barely pierced our teen consciousness. Perhaps, assimilated from our elders, we hoped against hope that the future would return to a version of a not-yet-forgotten past.

 

So there we were, fresh out of boys’ school, overawed by the size and splendour and age of our new surroundings, by a sense of self, of horizons and of space – your own room, from day one, after regimented, dingy confines in sandy Surrey. One might be scared or lonely, miss Nanny or one’s dog, but soon came a visceral challenge, to grapple with emerging adulthood.

 

We quickly learned the rules, or rather customs. We dutifully prepared our Saying Lesson before Lights Out, we got up at seven for Early School, went to Absence (in fact, presence), then Chapel. We ate revolting Boys Dinner in the allotted 20 minutes before doing battle on the Playing Fields of Sixpenny, or dragged padded grey-flannel shorts down to Boats. We noted the swagger of sixth-form boys, seemingly wildly grown-up, and were careful to do nothing that might single one out to the gods of Pop. We skeltered to Boy-Calls, we skivvied for Fag-Masters, we cleaned their Corps boots, we flattered Tutors, we oiled up to dames, we ‘capped’ all beaks. And we were drunk with relief on graduating from Remove to Upper School.

 

What all this taught us was to be polite, have good manners, to show respect. Even so vast an institution was essentially intimate: we formed a mutual bond, didn’t feel superior, although we scoffed slightly at Tugs (scholarship boys), jealous of their cleverness rather than snobbism. This bonding was essential as there was almost no recreation besides sports – except, thank God, the Drawing Schools. There were no foreigners, though one raven-haired beauty was rumoured to be half-Egyptian. ‘Crumbs! Egyptian!’ we whispered as he passed. There was no swimming pool, no theatre (concerts, or plays, usually Shakespeare, were desultory affairs in School Hall), no cinema, no medicines (my dame believed in a scant thimble of brandy as a cure-all), no cameras or Coca-Cola, no radios, TV or gramophones, and most certainly no drinking or smoking – sackable offences.

 

These privations weren’t exclusively because we were at Eton. There wasn’t, anywhere, pop music, nor young singing idols (though we knew girls who swooned at Johnny Ray and later jiggled about to Bill Haley), no new humour, no dark Nouvelle Vague films, no Going Abroad, put paid to by a £50 take-abroad limit: the theatre was Anna Neagle comedies, artists were in Paris; nightclubs were for one’s parents’ friends, smooching to Edmundo Ros; clothes hadn’t changed in decades, jeans were unheard of. There was no street life we yearned to emulate (though Teddy boys did have a certain allure), no social level to step down to. Drugs were unknown; Du Maurier cork-tips made one dizzy; whisky in quantity unexpectedly made one sick, putting a sticky end to that fumble with the deb we were trying to delight. Thus we had no good reason to believe holidays would be a panacea of excitement, just more huntin’/shootin’/fishin’ and going to the circus at Christmas, along with finding out that we were even more tongue-tied with girls, Nanny wasn’t indispensable, and your sister had adopted your dog.

 

And beyond? There was no gap year. Instead National Service loomed, then Oxford or Cambridge beckoned the brainier, a Guards regiment the rest, and – to the very few – the unmentionable thrall of a more lilac life in an almost club-like gay milieu. For four or five years, Eton consumed our whole being. But some of us understood that we had a lifetime ahead in which to roll, and rock, in the gutter.

Thursday, 2 April 2026

The Most Dangerous Party in New York: How Andy Warhol Destroyed Every Old Money Woman Who Loved Him

58 years old - 28 years, 6 months and 26 days old ...



ANDY WARHOL, POP ARTIST, DIES
By DOUGLAS C. McGILL

Andy Warhol, a founder of Pop Art whose paintings and prints of Presidents, movie stars, soup cans and other icons of America made him one of the most famous artists in the world, died yesterday. He was believed to be 58 years old.

The artist died at the New York Hospital-Cornell Medical Center in Manhattan, where he underwent gall bladder surgery Saturday. His condition was stable after the operation, according to a hospital spokeswoman, Ricki Glantz, but he had a heart attack in his sleep around 5:30 A.M.

Though best known for his earliest works - including his silk-screen image of a Campbell's soup can and a wood sculpture painted like a box of Brillo pads - Mr. Warhol's career included successful forays into photography, movie making, writing and magazine publishing.

He founded Interview magazine in 1969, and in recent years both he and his work were increasingly in the public eye - on national magazine covers, in society columns and in television advertisements for computers, cars, cameras and liquors.

In all these endeavors, Mr. Warhol's keenest talents were for attracting publicity, for uttering the unforgettable quote and for finding the single visual image that would most shock and endure. That his art could attract and maintain the public interest made him among the most influential and widely emulated artists of his time.

Although himself shy and quiet, Mr. Warhol attracted dozens of followers who were anything but quiet, and the combination of his genius and their energy produced dozens of notorious events throughout his career. In the mid-1960's, he sometimes sent a Warhol look alike to speak for him at lecture engagements, and his Manhattan studio, ''the Factory,'' was a legendary hangout for other artists and hangers-on.

In 1968, however, a would-be follower shot and critically wounded Mr. Warhol at the Factory. After more than a year of recuperation, Mr. Warhol returned to his career, which he increasingly devoted to documenting, with Polaroid pictures and large silk-screen prints, political and entertainment figures. He started his magazine, and soon became a fixture on the fashion and jet-set social scene.

In the 1980's, after a relatively quiet period in his career, Mr. Warhol burst back onto the contemporary art scene as a mentor and friend to young artists, including Keith Haring, Kenny Scharf and Jean-Michel Basquiat. With Mr. Basquiat, Mr. Warhol collaborated on a series of paintings in which he shunned mechanical reproduction techniques and painted individual canvases for the first time since the early 1960's.

He never denied his obsession with art as a business and with getting publicity; instead, he proclaimed them as philosophical tenets.

''Being good in business is the most fascinating kind of art,'' he said on one occasion. On another, he said: ''Art? That's a man's name.'' As widely known as his art and his own image were, however, Mr. Warhol himself was something of a cipher. He was uneasy while speaking about himself. ''The interviewer should just tell me the words he wants me to say and I'll repeat them after him,'' he once said. Date of Birth Uncertain

The earliest facts of his life remain unclear. He was born somewhere in Pennsylvania in either 1928, 1929 or 1930, according to three known versions of his life. (The most commonly accepted date is Aug. 6, 1928.) The son of immigrant parents from Czechoslovakia, his father a coal miner - the family's name was Warhola -he attended the Carnegie Institute of Technology (now Carnegie-Mellon University), from which he graduated with a degree in pictorial design in 1949.

He immediately set out for New York, where he changed his name to Warhol and began a career as an illustrator and a commerical artist, working for Tiffany's, Bonwit Teller's, Vogue, Glamour, The New York Times and other magazines and department stores.

By the late 1950's, he was highly successful, having earned enough money to move to a town house in Midtown, and having received numerous professional prizes and awards. Despite his success, however, he increasingly considered trying his hand at making paintings, and in 1960 he did so with a series of pictures based on comic strips, including Superman and Dick Tracy, and on Coca-Cola bottles.

Success, however, was not immediate. Leo Castelli, the art dealer best known for discovering the artists Jasper Johns and Robert Rauschenberg, saw Mr. Warhol's paintings but declined to show his work, since Roy Lichtenstein, who also painted pictures taken from comic strips, was already represented by the gallery. Ivan Karp, a talent scout for Castelli who discovered Mr. Warhol, tried to help him find a New York gallery that would show his work, with no success. The Birth of a Movement

In 1962, the dam broke, with Mr. Warhol's first exhibition of the Campbell's soup cans at the Ferus Gallery in Los Angeles, and his show of other works at the Sidney Janis Gallery in New York. Other Pop artists, including Mr. Lichtenstein, James Rosenquist and Tom Wesselman also began to achieve prominence around the country at the time, and the movement was born.

Though some of Mr. Warhol's first Pop Art paintings had drips on them - evidence that the painter's hand had left its mark on the work - by 1963 Mr. Warhol had dispensed with the brush altogether. Instead, he turned to exclusively hard-edged images made in the medium of silk-screen print, which made a depersonalized image that became Mr. Warhol's trademark.

''Painting a soup can is not in itself a radical act,'' the critic Robert Hughes wrote in 1971. ''But what was radical in Warhol was that he adapted the means of production of soup cans to the way he produced paintings, turning them out en masse - consumer art mimicking the the process as well as the look of consumer culture.''

In 1964 Mr. Warhol was taken on by the Castelli Gallery, which remained his art dealer until his death. His experimentation with underground films began around that time - an interest that culminated in widespread notoriety if not overwhelming box office acclaim.

''Eat,'' a 45-minute film, showed the artist Robert Indiana eating a mushroom. ''Haircut'' showed a Warhol groupie having his hair cut over a span of 33 minutes, and another, ''Poor Little Rich Girl,'' was filmed out of focus and showed Edie Sedgwick, a Warhol follower who became a celebrity on the New York social circuit, talking about herself.

In the 1970's, recuperated from his near fatal gunshot wound, Mr. Warhol settled down to a sustained creative period in which his fame as a society figure leveled off, but his output, if anything, increased. Working most often in silk-screen prints, he made series of pictures of political and Hollywood celebrities, including Mao, Liza Minelli, Jimmy Carter and Russell Banks.

In 1975, he published ''The Philosophy of Andy Warhol (From A to B and Back Again),'' a collection of statements and epigrams that elucidated his contrary views on art.

In his glancing and elliptical style, Mr. Warhol wrote about subjects ranging from art to money and sex. ''Checks aren't money,'' he wrote in one section of the book. In another, he said: ''Fantasy love is much better than reality love. Never doing it is very exciting. The most exciting attractions are between two opposites that never meet.''

In the 1980's, Mr. Warhol became more active in commissioned art projects and a variety of other commercial activties. In 1983, he made a series of prints - based on animals of endangered species - that was first shown at the American Museum of Natural History. A Near Exception

Although some of his later art projects seemed to diverge from his calculating approach and to be motivated in part by social concern, Mr. Warhol generally avoided any such suggestion. He came closest to making an exception in 1985, when he exhibited a group of prints of clowns, robots, monkeys and other images he made for children at the Newport (R.I.) Art Museum in 1985.

''It's just that the show's for children,'' he told a reporter at the time. ''I wanted it arranged for them. The Newport Museum agreed to hang all of my children's pictures at levels where only kids could really see them.''

After the news of his death was publicized yesterday, artists, celebrities and politicians who knew Mr. Warhol spoke of his influence on culture, and on their lives.

''He had this wry, sardonic knack for dismissing history and putting his finger on public taste, which to me was evidence of living in the present,'' said the sculptor George Segal. ''Every generation of artists has the huge problem of finding their own language and talking about their own experience. He was out front with several others of his generation in pinning down how it was to live in the 60's, 70's and 80's.''

Leo Castelli, Mr. Warhol's dealer of 23 years, said Mr. Warhol, more than practically any artist of the last two decades, seemed to have a continuing and strong influence on today's emerging artists. ''Of all the painters of his generation he's still the one most influential on the younger artists - a real guru,'' Mr. Castelli said.

Martha Graham, the dancer and choreographer, recalled her first meeting with Warhol. ''When I first met Andy, he confided to me that he was born in Pittsburgh as I was, and that when he first saw me dance 'Appalachian Spring' it touched him deeply. He touched me deeply as well. He was a gifted, strange maverick who crossed my life with great generosity. His last act was the gift of three portraits [ of Miss Graham ] he donated to my company to help my company meet its financial needs.''

In his book, ''The Philosophy of Andy Warhol,'' the artist wrote a short chap=ter entitled ''Death'' that consisted almost entirely of these words: ''I'm so sorry to hear about it. I just thought that things were magic and that it would never happen.''

Dr. Elliot M. Gross, the Chief Medical Examiner for New York City, said an autopsy on Mr. Warhol would be conducted today. Dr. Gross explained that deaths occurring during surgery or shortly afterward are considered deaths of an ''unusual manner.''

''It was an unexplained death of a relatively young person in apparently good health,'' he said.


Mr. Warhol is survived by two brothers, John Warhola and Paul Warhola, both of Pittsburgh.


Edie Sedgwick: The life and death of the Sixties star
Rich, gorgeous and well-connected, Edie Sedgwick was the party girl who lit up Andy Warhol's golden circle. As her life story comes to the screen, Rhoda Koenig unravels a very Sixties tragedy


"Her fog, her amphetamine, and her pearls..." With three nouns, in "Just Like a Woman" (said to have been inspired by her), Bob Dylan deftly summed up his friend Edie Sedgwick, the wayward princess of Andy Warhol's multimedia Factory.

More than 30 years after her short, tumultuous life ended, Edie is still causing ructions. Last month, Dylan threatened to sue the makers of Factory Girl, a movie starring Sienna Miller as Edie, claiming that he is defamed by Hayden Christensen's portrayal of a singer whose rejection drives her to suicide.

This week, Edie's brother claimed that despite Dylan's insistence that he and Edie never had a relationship, she became pregnant with his child and had an abortion. The producers describe the harmonica-playing character (named "Quinn" in the press notes, but never called by name in the movie and identified only as "musician" in the credits) as a composite - which Dylan's lawyer argues is no bar to defamation.

The movie, which was frantically re-cut prior to its Oscar-qualifying release at one theatre in Los Angeles (though the director George Hickenlooper says the changes had nothing to do with Dylan's objections) will be edited again before its wider US release later this month.

Early reviews have been mixed, with The Hollywood Reporter praising its "bright intensity" and saying that Miller "brings to life Sedgwick's legendary allure"; the Los Angeles Times calling it "simplistic" and "superficial"; and Variety finding the movie "tame" and Miller "whiny".

It's no surprise, though, that the film should provoke reactions as varied as Edie herself did. To parents terrified of the influence of sex and drugs, she was an abomination; to the would-be cool, she was an ideal; to painters as eminent as Robert Rauschenberg, she was a living work of art.

***

American aristocracy ruled that a lady's name should appear in the papers only three times: when she was born, when she married, and when she died. Edie Sedgwick changed that. As well as publicising her appearances in underground movies, her numerous committals for mental illness and drug addiction were widely reported. She met her future husband - a fellow patient - in the psychiatric wing of the hospital where she was born. On the last evening of her life, in 1971, she appeared on television, and then went home to die of an overdose of barbiturates. She was 28.

Edie's troubles began long before she was born. Her distinguished New England lineage (a Sedgwick was Speaker of the House of Representatives under George Washington, another edited the Atlantic Monthly for a generation) was also distinguished by hereditary madness, as far back as the Speaker's wife.

Edie's father (whose own father had moved his family to southern California) had two nervous breakdowns soon after leaving university, and his wife was told by her doctors that she must never have children. But the rich do not like being told what to do, and the Sedgwicks were rich-rich (not only had Edie's family inherited millions; oil was discovered on their property, enough to sink 17 wells).

Mrs Sedgwick defied doctors and fate and had eight children, two of whom died before Edie - one hanged himself, the other rode his motorcycle into a bus. As a father, Francis Minturn "Duke" Sedgwick was larger than life and much more terrible. A career as a monumental sculptor and owner of a ranch that was his own little dukedom (the children were tutored at home, and seldom left it) did not exhaust his energies. He seduced, or at least made advances to, his wife's friends, his children's friends and, Edie said, to her.

***

When Edie left California for Radcliffe, the women's college of Harvard (the Sedgwick alma mater), she had already spent time in mental hospitals, suffered from anorexia and had an abortion. What men saw, however, was a delicate beauty and an appealingly vulnerable quality. "Every boy at Harvard," said a former classmate, "was trying to save Edie from herself."

The less high-minded boys flocked to Edie for other reasons - even at wealthy Harvard, there were not too many students who drove their own Mercedes, or were so uninhibited. At one boy's Sunday family lunch, she left the table, walked out on to the lawn, stripped to her knickers and lay down to sunbathe.

Bored in Boston, Edie decided to swap the role of college girl for party girl and moved to New York, into the 14-room Park Avenue apartment of her obliging grandmother. At 21, she came into money of her own and got a flat - and clothes, clothes, clothes. Her stick figure, huge eyes and chopped-off hair suited the style of the early Sixties - Jean Seberg in the movies, Twiggy in the glossies- and Edie was, briefly, on the fashion pages.

Life magazine said she was "doing more for black tights than anybody since Hamlet". The Vogue empress Diana Vreeland praised her "anthracite-black eyes and legs to swoon over... She is shown here arabesquing on her leather rhino to a record of The Kinks." But, well before heroin chic, her drug-taking was becoming so notorious that editors stopped calling.

In 1965, Edie met an impresario who was more her style: Andy Warhol. Warhol and Edie were, horribly, made for each other. The Pittsburgh boy, son of Polish immigrants, wanted the Wasp heiress's company more fervently than any straight man wanted her body; the neglected daughter craved the obsessive attention of a famous man who demanded nothing from her in return. "If you had a father who read the paper at the dinner table," said Viva, another of Warhol's film-stars, "and you had to go up and turn his chin to even get him to look at you, then you had Andy, who would press the 'on' button of the Sony the minute you opened your mouth."

Edie introduced Warhol to her real father, but their one meeting was not a success. The artist thought Duke Sedgwick the most handsome older man he had ever seen, but the rancher said afterwards: "Why, the guy's a screaming fag!"

Warhol's clothes became smarter under Edie's influence, and she dyed her hair silver to match his. "I thought at first it was exploitative on Andy's part," says the photographer Fred Eberstadt. "Then I changed my mind and decided, if it was exploitative on any part, maybe it was Edie's."

"Edie and Andy," the non-couple, were the couple of the moment. She took him to parties where everyone else was listed in the Social Register; he stage-managed her appearances, pushing Edie to the cameras and the microphones, where she was white with fear but loved every minute.

Edie became an habitué of the Factory, Warhol's loft papered in aluminium foil, where the daytime was spent churning out silkscreen prints and the night on parties that mingled guests who contributed flash, trash and cash with a smorgasbord of illegal stimulants. (Some left the place in limousines, some in ambulances, a regular said.)

Flash-bulbs popped and crowds on the wrong side of the rope screamed when Edie turned up in leotards and her grandmother's leopard coat. The Velvet Underground, Warhol's rock band, wrote a song, "Femme Fatale", about her. Warhol put her in a movie called Horse, which, contrary to what one might have expected from the title, was actually about a horse. The actors, in cowboy gear, were brought together with the stallion and a placard was held up that read: "Approach the horse sexually, everybody." Edie was lucky for once - the indignant horse kicked someone else in the head.

***

Edie appeared in Beauty Part II, her nervous radiance apparent from the first. George Plimpton, a fellow aristocrat (who, with Jean Stein, later put together the oral biography Edie) remembered seeing the film, in which Edie, in bra and pants, lounged on a bed with a man pawing her, while an offstage voice gave her instructions. "Her head would come up, like an animal suddenly alert at the edge of a waterhole, and she'd stare across the bed at her inquisitor in the shadows... I couldn't get the film out of my mind."

Other films included Restaurant, Kitchen and the cruelly titled Poor Little Rich Girl, with Edie back in bed in her underwear, putting on make-up or answering offscreen questions in an offhand way. Her dreaminess, like her hysteria, was fuelled by cocaine, alcohol, uppers and downers, alone or combined.

Edie's favourite was a speedball - a shot of amphetamine in one arm, heroin in the other. Several times she fell asleep while smoking in bed; once she was badly burned as candles toppled while she slept. Even then, her imprimatur was one the fashion world was eager to claim. "When Edie set her apartment on fire," said Betsey Johnson, "she was in one of my dresses."

Edie moved to the Chelsea Hotel, famous for its artistic clientele, where she met Dylan - whose song "Leopardskin Pillbox Hat" she is supposed to have inspired as well - and his right-hand man, the record producer Bob Neuwirth, with whom she had an affair.

However, Jonathan Sedgwick, Edie's brother, says: "She called me up and said she'd met this folk singer in the Chelsea, and she thinks she's falling in love. I could tell the difference in her, just from her voice. She sounded so joyful instead of sad. It was later on she told me she'd fallen in love with Bob Dylan."

Some months later, he says, she told him she had been hospitalised for drug addiction and that when doctors discovered she was pregnant, they carried out an abortion, over her protests. "Her biggest joy was with Bob Dylan, and her saddest time was with Bob Dylan, losing the child. Edie was changed by that experience, very much so."

Dylan's lover of record at the time was Joan Baez. Soon after they broke up, he married Sara Lownds; Edie was said to have been devastated when she heard the news from someone else.

Even with her inheritance gone, and unable to count on money from home, Edie wouldn't economise. In all the time she lived in New York, she took the subway only once - to Coney Island, in a feathered evening gown over a bikini. The rest of the time it was limousines. She would never even settle for a taxi.

At the end of 1966, Edie went to California for Christmas. At the Chelsea, they were relieved to see her go - there would be terrible scenes in the lobby when she wasn't able to pay her bill, and she never could stop setting her room on fire.

As soon as she got home, her parents had her committed. And as soon as she could, she ran back to New York. But the spotlight never again turned her way. In 1967, her father died. A friend said: "Finally. Thank God. Now, maybe Edie can breathe."

But she became more depressed. Her money was gone, and she returned to her grandmother's apartment, to steal antiques which she sold for drug money. After eight months in increasingly grim and frightening mental hospitals, in the last of which she was made to scrub the lavatories, she returned, in 1968, to the ranch. But her drug habit had not ended, and she took up with a motorcycle gang, trading sex for heroin. "She'd ball half the dudes in town for a snort of junk," a friend said. "But she was always very ladylike about the whole thing."

***

In Edie's last film, Ciao! Manhattan, whose scenario was even more formless and bizarre than her own, she played a topless hitchhiker living in a tent in an empty swimming pool. There was a non-simulated orgy in a (full) swimming pool, fuelled by amphetamines and tequila. Not just Edie but the whole cast were on speed; the film-makers had to find a co-operative doctor and set up a charge account.

Edie showed off her new implants, but ascribed her larger breasts to diet and exercise. She pretended to undergo electroshock treatments - to which she was soon after subjected for real, in the hospital used for the filming. She also recreated being given a shot of amphetamine by one of the swinging doctors of the period, having to lie down because she was too thin to take it standing up.

Roger Vadim and Allen Ginsberg, the latter naked and chanting, turned up for some reason, and Isabel Jewell, the tough girl of such Thirties films as Times Square Lady and I've Been Around, played her mother. Edie would sometimes have convulsions from all the drugs she was taking. The director of the film ordered his assistant: "Tie her down if you have to."

In July 1971, in white lace, Edie married Michael Post, a student eight years younger, whom she had turned from his vow to remain a virgin until he was 21. Some guests threw confetti; one threw gravel. Edie could not live alone, she said, and would not live with a nurse. Post's job was to dole out her pills.

On 14 November, she went to a fashion show where she headed for the cameras like a woman dying of thirst to an oasis. A man she met that evening said she asked to come and see him the next day for a chat, but they would need to have sex first, otherwise she'd be too nervous to talk. The next morning, her husband woke to find her dead beside him. Whether her death was accident or suicide, the coroner was unable to determine. Post plays a bit part in the movie.

When Edie first crashed and burned, such stories of a misguided search for freedom and self-expression were rare. By the time she died, they were becoming common. Now, of course, there are too many to count. But the carefree innocence and optimism of the early Edie's photographs and films still resonate. "She was after life," said Diana Vreeland, "and sometimes life doesn't come fast enough."

Factory Girl is released in February

BACK TO THE ANDY WARHOL MANSION


MTV President Splurges on Warhol's 66th Street Mansion
By Deborah Schoeneman and Carmela Ciuraru
January 23, 2000 | 7:00 p.m
Andy Warhol lived at 57 East 66th Street from 1974 until his death in 1987, dwelling there longer than anyone who has since tried to call the town house home–first a Spanish family and then an American gentleman. Maybe they were spooked by the secret trap door in the master bedroom or tales of the sordid findings of the appraisers who scoured the place after Warhol's death: green boxes of wings stacked near a television set, a medicine cabinet filled with makeup tubes and perfume bottles, and women's jewelry nestled in the four-poster canopy bed.
Now it's Tom Freston's turn. The Warhol mansion was purchased by the chairman of MTV for around $6.5 million in early January. Mr. Freston confirmed that he purchased the house, but did not wish to comment.
The 8,000-square-foot house is a hefty piece of memorabilia. Warhol bought it for $310,000 and hired decorator Jed Johnson. Together they merged their tastes in art deco with primitive contemporary paintings (none of his own) and religious emblems. Soon after Warhol's death, someone stole the street number–57–from the facade. (That prompted the Spanish family who purchased the house from Warhol's estate to erect a gate out front, which has since been removed.) On Aug. 6, 1998, in celebration of Mr. Warhol's 70th birthday, Barbaralee Diamonstein-Spielvogel's Historic Landmark Preservation Center dedicated a plaque to the town house to honor the artist–the first memorial to Warhol in the city. There was, of course, a large gathering in front of the residence for the occasion.
One broker considers $6.5 million a fair price. "It's a great old house," the broker said. "Andy never did a major rehab of it. He left a lot of detail that people appreciate like trade moldings and fireplaces." The Spanish family paid the estate $3 million, but never moved in, and the last owner, who purchased the house in 1993 for $3.35 million, did some upgrading but kept the architecture intact.
The five-and-a-half-story neoclassical house has four bedrooms, a library with Juliet balconies, six fireplaces, central air-conditioning and an elevator.
Vincent Fremont, a friend of Warhol's, remembers house-sitting for the artist while he was in Japan for two weeks in 1974. "Very few people ever got into the house. It was a private hideaway," he said. "It had a nice parlor, a staircase and a formal dining room, which Andy never used after the late 70's because he liked to eat in the downstairs kitchen."
Mr. Freston and Warhol met over Warhol's television show Fifteen Minutes , said Mr. Fremont, who produced the show. Fifteen Minutes ran on MTV from 1986 to 1987. "It's kind of interesting that after all these years he bought it," said Mr. Fremont. "It's kind of terrific."
The fate of Mr. Freston's TriBeCa condominium on the top floor of 39 North Moore Street, which he bought in 1994, is unknown.






Wednesday, 1 April 2026

‘Meghan Markle TRICKED Prince Harry Into Marriage’ | 'She Played Him To Get What She Wanted'

 

Queen Elizabeth II: The remarkable life of our nation's most beloved monarch captured by 'the most knowledgeable royal biographer on the planet' - by Hugo Vickers (Author)

 


Queen Elizabeth II: The remarkable life of our nation's most beloved monarch captured by 'the most knowledgeable royal biographer on the planet' - Financial Times Hardcover – 9 April 2026

by Hugo Vickers (Author)

 

THE MAJOR NEW BIOGRAPHY OF THE LATE QUEEN.

 

'Impeccably researched . . . Hugo Vickers offers us his piercing insights into the innermost workings of the Royal family' - DAILY MAIL

 

'Based on six decades of close observation . . . a portrait of the steadfast woman who long wore the crown' - THE TIMES, 'BOOKS TO WATCH IN 2026'

 

'Royal historian Hugo Vickers brings together a lifetime's worth of anecdotes in this "personal" biography, which draws on 60 years' worth of research as well as never-before-seen sources' - THE TELEGRAPH, 'BOOKS TO WATCH IN 2026'

 

Queen Elizabeth II occupies a unique place in the hearts of her people, and in this new, revelatory biography, acclaimed royal historian Hugo Vickers sheds new light on the woman behind the crown.

 

Even as a child, Elizabeth was elegant, self-contained, and enigmatic. After a supremely happy childhood, gravitas descended with the death of her beloved grandfather and the Abdication of her uncle Edward VIII. As Vickers reveals in impeccable prose, she accepted her destiny and worked steadfastly to prepare for what was to come. On her twenty-first birthday in 1947, she made a promise to serve and kept it for a remarkable 75 years. She was steadfast and conciliatory and presided calmly over decades of change, political upheaval and family tragedy.

 

This major new biography is based on sixty years of close observation and research, and uses never-before-seen sources and personal recollections to illuminate her life as never before. Hugo Vickers has been described by the Financial Times as 'the most knowledgeable royal biographer on the planet'. This is his most incisive book yet, decoding hidden patterns in our most iconic monarch's behaviour to shed new light on her as never before.