Tuesday, 21 March 2023

There is a Portuguese fifteenth-century Padrão boxed since 2019 in a port in Namibia./ Roger Crowley - Conquerors: How Portugal Forged the First Global Empire




Germany to return Portuguese Stone Cross to Namibia

Published

17 May 2019

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-48309694

 


The Stone Cross was placed by the Portuguese in 1486 and features the country's crest

 

The German Historical Museum has announced it will return a 15th century monument to Namibia after it was taken during the colonial era.

 

The Stone Cross is a Portuguese navigation landmark placed on the southwest African coastline in 1486.

 

But when the area was under German colonial control in the 1890s, the cross was taken and moved to Europe.

 

Namibia asked for its return in 2017 and on Friday, the Berlin museum formally agreed to the request.

 

Germany has pledged to return artefacts and human remains to its former colonies.

 

At a ceremony, German Culture Minister Monika Grütters said it was a "clear signal that we are committed to coming to terms with our colonial past".

 

Namibia's ambassador to Germany, Andreas Guibeb, called it "important as a step for us to reconcile with our colonial past and the trail of humiliation and systematic injustice that it left behind".

 

A museum press release said the cross would be returned in August.

 

Portuguese explorer Diogo Cão first placed the 3.5m (11ft) stone cross - featuring the country's coat of arms - on Africa's southwest coast during one of his expeditions.

 

It became so well known it featured on old maps of the area.

 

But a German naval commander took the cross in 1893, during the country's control of what became Namibia between 1884 and 1915.

 

The German Historical Museum foundation's president, Raphael Gross, wrote in the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung that the cross represented "the slow beginning of colonial rule in present-day Namibia".

 

A number of African nations have in recent years called on European museums to return artefacts taken away during the period of colonial control.

 


‘Conquerors: How Portugal Forged the First Global Empire,’ by Roger Crowley

 


By Ian Morris

Jan. 15, 2016

https://www.nytimes.com/2016/01/17/books/review/conquerors-how-portugal-forged-the-first-global-empire-by-roger-crowley.html

 

Afonso de Albuquerque died 500 years ago, after spending a dozen years terrorizing coastal cities from Yemen to Malaysia. He enriched thousands of men and killed tens of thousands more. Despite never commanding more than a few dozen ships, he built one of the first modern intercontinental empires. And this was just the beginning: The next step, he said, was to sail up the Red Sea, destroy Mecca, Medina and the Prophet Muhammad’s body and liberate the Holy Land. Perhaps, he mused, he could destroy Islam altogether.

 

The 18 years between December 1497, when Vasco da Gama rounded the Cape of Good Hope, and December 1515, when Albuquerque died off the Indian coast, were a pivotal point in history, and in “Conquerors” Roger Crowley tells the story with style. It is a classic ripping yarn, packed with excitement, violence and cliffhangers. Its larger-than-life characters are at once extraordinary and repulsive, at one moment imagining the world in entirely new ways and at the next braying with delight over massacring entire cities.

 

Crowley’s craftsmanship comes through most clearly in telling this story of relentless, one-sided slaughter without glutting the reader with gore. At Mombasa in 1505 the Portuguese killed 700 Muslims with a loss of five of their own men. At Dabul on the last day of 1508 “no living thing was left alive.” At Goa in 1510 Albuquerque killed so many people that the city’s infamous crocodiles could not eat them all. And on the conquerors went, year after bloody year; but Crowley, the author of “1453” and other works of history, handles this grim tale with aplomb, keeping a fast-moving narrative in the foreground while nodding just often enough toward bigger questions in the background.

 

The biggest of these is surely how a handful of Europeans managed, for good and ill, to do so much. Crowley does not give us an explicit answer, but he provides more than enough information for readers to make up their own minds. Some historians have suggested that Albuquerque owed his success more to divisions within India than to any European advantages, but Crowley makes it clear that infighting among the Portuguese was even worse. The king’s court in Lisbon was a snake pit, and Albuquerque’s captains repeatedly refused to serve under him; in 1514 an attempt was made to poison him.

 

The theory that Christian civilization was simply superior to Muslim and Hindu cultures seems equally unconvincing. As Crowley describes it, Lisbon was less a model of Renaissance reason than a precursor of the Wild West, and most Portuguese were so ignorant about India that it took them years to work out that Hinduism was a religion in its own right, not a provincial version of Christianity. When the Europeans did finally grasp this, many also concluded — as one Italian merchant put it — that India’s cultures “are superior to us in infinite ways, except when it comes to fighting.”

 

Fighting — or more precisely ships, guns and ferocity — does seem to be what it came down to. Portuguese sailors learned to build ships that could plunge into the uncharted Atlantic in search of winds to carry them around Africa’s southern tip, all the while dying in droves from dysentery, scurvy and thirst. But getting to India was merely a sufficient condition; without devastating guns, the Europeans would have accomplished little.

 

Ships and guns gave Europeans command of the seas, but even when Indians bought or copied European weapons and hired European advisers — as they did by 1510 — they still could not compete with what Crowley calls the Portuguese “berserker fighting style.” From the humblest foot soldier up to Albuquerque himself, the Europeans were simply ferocious, throwing themselves at their enemies with reckless courage. Sometimes indiscipline brought on disaster, but often Africans, Indians, Arabs and Turks turned and fled.

 

Portugal’s leaders were deeply flawed, but they had strategic vision. By 1505 King Manuel understood that a few Europeans could control the Indian Ocean’s spice trade by seizing choke points at Aden, Ormuz and Malacca, and in 1510 Albuquerque saw that Goa could anchor the whole enterprise (“If you lost the whole of India you could reconquer it from there,” he told Manuel).

 

Manuel and Albuquerque came close to pulling off the biggest strategic coup in history, converting Portugal from the most backward fringe of western Eurasia to the center of a global empire. It is only when we ask why they failed that Crowley’s story perhaps fails too. But maybe that will be the subject for Crowley’s next book; and if it is as good as this one, it will be worth waiting for.

 

CONQUERORS

How Portugal Forged the First Global Empire

By Roger Crowley

Illustrated. 368 pp. Random House. $30.

 

Ian Morris’s latest book is “Foragers, ­Farmers, and Fossil Fuels: How Human Val



Maria Manuela Peleteiro / PUBLICO comment

“We do not agree with his idea that the request for the restitution of the Standard could be seen as a colonial nostalgia, but rather as a demonstration of enormous respect for the unbridled courage and determination that led the Portuguese to explore the African coast. We would like you to count on us and on our opinion of Portuguese admirers of Namibia and its People but also of our Past, not the colonial but what led us with a unique dynamic and boldness, to face the Unknown. If you are aware of any Movement in Portugal that supports this idea, we will certainly be available to be contacted.” Lisbon, July 1, 2018 Maria do Céu Fialho Maria da Conceição Peleteiro Maria da Luz Fialho Maria Manuela Peleteiro

 

OPINION

The Padrão of Diogo Cão

 

The restitution of museum objects from the former colonies is of course a complex problem.

 

Francisco Bethencourt

19 June 2018, 06:05

https://www.publico.pt/2018/06/19/culturaipsilon/opiniao/o-padrao-de-diogo-cao-1833997

 

The Museum of German History in Berlin organized on June 7 a day of debate on the pattern erected by Diogo Cão in 1486 at Cape Cross, a territory of present-day Namibia. The pattern had been removed from its site by a German warship in 1893, during German colonization, having been preserved first in Kiel and then in Berlin, belonging since 1946 to the collection of the Museum of German History. This meeting was prompted by the official request for restitution of the standard, submitted by Namibia last year.

 

Government members, ambassadors, academics, journalists and members of heritage associations were invited, mainly from Namibia but also from other African countries. Present and speaking were the Minister of Culture of the German Federal Government, Monika Grütters, and the Ambassador of Namibia Andreas Guibeb. Panel discussions on the legal and philosophical framework of the restitution of museum pieces, oral literature and forms of anti-colonial resistance in Namibia, museum policies and international relations followed. I would like to highlight here the interventions of Ellen Ndeshi Namhila, from the University of Namibia, on the fascinating diaries of Hendrik Witbooi, from the early twentieth century, and Winani Kgwatalala, from the National Museum of Botswana, on the policy of restitution of objects.

 

I did the inaugural session on "Colonial objects: imposition, appropriation, exchange", in which I analyzed the logic of patterns as forms of identification of exploration trips, claim of precedence and declaration of intention of occupation. I tried to place them in the wider context of political communication and the fate of European objects, particularly statues, in the post-independence period. I approached the collection of objects from other continents, in many cases adapted to European taste, such as ivories from West Africa, Indo-Portuguese furniture, Japanese lacquer objects or Chinese porcelains, which came to populate European curiosity cabinets along with minerals and plants. I also spoke of the logic of museums, given the transformation of the last 40 years: European national and colonial collections for the purpose of imperial affirmation have become places of contact and involvement of the communities originating from ethnographic objects, open to the regeneration of memory and knowledge of the cultures of the world.

 

Namibia's request is part of a process of reflection on the colonial past and is supported by several institutions of memory, such as the Namibian Association of Museums, National Archives and Citizens' Associations. It is part of a complex process of negotiation between the two governments over compensation due for the genocide of the Herrero and Nama by German colonial troops between 1904 and 1908 (it is estimated that 70% of these populations were exterminated). Descendants of these ethnicities, meanwhile, have filed a lawsuit against the German government in a New York court. The German government, which at first paid little attention to this private initiative in absentia of the Namibian government, had to constitute a defense lawyer given the threat of kidnapping its properties in the United States.

 

The atmosphere in which the meeting took place was extremely cordial, with the participation of German and Namibian academics of excellent level. The German head of the German-Namibian bilateral commission Ruprecht Polenz was also a speaker. The president of the German History Museum, Professor Raphael Gross, was available for the restitution of the standard. He intends to revise the exhibition of the permanent collection, as several sections are frankly dated and ideologically biased; the section on German colonialism in Africa does not even mention the genocide of the Herrero and Nama in Namibia.

 

I must stress the openness of the German authorities, which seem to be in line with the best international museum practices of liaison with the communities of the places of origin of the pieces. I had the opportunity to talk with Professor Hermann Parzinger, president of the Prussian Cultural Heritage Foundation, which manages the main museums, archives and the National Library in Berlin. Investment in the recovery, restructuring and development of museums is overwhelming, involving a financial effort of six to seven billion euros that will be extended until the 2030s. The German federal government's bet on changing the face of Berlin is bearing fruit, with the affirmation of the German capital as one of the great points of attraction of international tourism. The critical attitude towards the colonial past certainly benefits cooperation with the countries of Africa and Asia.

 

Portugal has never submitted any claim for restitution of the standard. At this point, such a request would be seen as colonial nostalgia by the international community. The request of the Namibian government is understandable, as its population has a project of reflection on the colonial past, in which the pattern can represent one of the focal points. The inventory of the museological and documentary heritage existing in Germany related to Namibia was also discussed. I pointed out as a possible model the Rescue project, which has been developed with microfilming and massive digitization of Brazilian documentation in Portugal and eight other countries. The restitution of museum objects from the former colonies is of course a more complex problem. The international consensus, expressed by Nicholas Thomas's latest book, is that a single rule is not possible; the decision should be taken on a case-by-case basis between the institutions involved, taking into account interests that can be accommodated by various modalities of loan, long-term granting, reply or return.

 

HERITAGE

There is a Portuguese fifteenth-century Padrão boxed since 2019 in a port in Namibia.

 

Marco that Diogo Cão left on the Skeleton Coast was in Berlin and arrived in Walvis Bay four years ago, but remains in storage. Negotiations with Germany concerning the colonial era continue.

 

Lucinda Canelas

20 March 2023, 07:20

https://www.publico.pt/2023/03/20/culturaipsilon/noticia/ha-padrao-portugues-seculo-xv-encaixotado-desde-2019-porto-namibia-2042866

 

For those who have memories of the Indiana Jones films, it's almost impossible to hear of a 500-year-old pattern arranged in a wooden box in a port warehouse without thinking about the final scene of The Raiders of the Lost Ark, in which a man pushes a wheelbarrow down the center aisle of a huge warehouse where dozens of crates with the "top secret" seal are stacked.  containing articles which should be kept closed under lock and key.

 

Now, the pattern Portuguese which for four years has been boxed in a customs house in the port of Walvis Bay, Namibia's second largest city, is not an imagined object, like the one that gives its name to Spielberg's film, and so his story is far from fiction.

 

Left by the navigator Diogo Cão in 1486 in a region that is now known as "the Skeleton Coast", this huge stone landmark with the shield Portuguese – it measures 3.5 meters high and weighs more than a ton – was taken to Berlin in the nineteenth century, when Namibia was part of the German colonial domains, and has remained there ever since.

 

Until, in May 2019, the German History Museum, to whose collection it belongs, announced that it would return it, in a solemn session in which the then ambassador of Namibia to Germany, Andreas Guibeb, spoke of the restitution of this territorial landmark that was also an aid to navigation as a decisive step in the movement of rapprochement between the two countries. Namibia and Germany share a past marked by episodes of extreme violence, within the framework of the German colonization of that African territory. "The origin of the column is inseparable from the history of Namibia," said the diplomat, quoted here by Deutsche Welle, the German public broadcaster.

 

Guibeb thus placed the pattern – symbol of the Portuguese Expansion removed from Namibian territory by another European colonial power – on the lot of cultural property that Germany was to return to Namibia as part of a reconciliation process between the two countries, which had already involved the restitution of works of art and human remains in the custody of several German museums.

 

The Berlin museum fulfilled the promise made and, that same year, used a company specialized in the transport of works of art, as sent by international manuals of good practices, to send the Diogo Cão Pattern to Walvis Bay, by sea, Daniela Lange, press officer of the German History Museum, confirmed to PÚBLICO.

 

"The Cape of the Cross standard is currently in a Namibian port. It has been prepared by a museum expert in stone conservation so that it can be rebuilt on site," Lange said.

 

"The date of the official handover is being coordinated between the [German] Federal Government and the Government of Namibia," added this technician from the Berlin museum, referring any further clarifications to the Minister of State for Cultural Affairs, whose spokesman, Jens Althoff, PÚBLICO tried to contact, without success.

 

Why is the standard closed for four years in a port warehouse waiting for an official refund? Who should return it to the Namibian state? And what will be your fate as soon as it is delivered?

 

PÚBLICO sought to hear from Esther Moombolah Gôagoses, from the Namibian Ministry of Education, Arts and Culture, but this director of heritage was not available to provide any clarifications until the closing time of this edition.

 

On the ground, a source close to the process who preferred not to be named attributes the delay in return to a rush by the Berlin museum, which reportedly sent the pattern to Walvis Bay without properly learning of the state of the reconciliation program involving the two countries, and without listening to other stakeholders.

 

Assuring that the more than five-century-old landmark has been "safe" for four years in a customs warehouse paid for by the German museum, the same source reports that its ownership has not been officially transferred to the Namibian Government – "the Berlin museum still owns the standard" – and that the two governments are looking for a legal solution that allows for formal restitution.

 

"The standard is from the museum, not the German state, but the Namibian government wants the state to return it. How can the state return what is not its own? Both countries are working on a solution." For when? It is not known.

 

Two patterns instead of one

The pattern that gave its name to the cable where it was placed – Cabo da Cruz – is a limestone landmark surmounted by a cube with a cross. On one side of the solid is engraved the shield Portuguese, already with the changes dictated by D. João II Portuguese. According to a text released by the Berlin museum in 2018, when it held a congress there on the standard, in Portuguese current we would say that it is written: "It was the creation of the world of 6685 and Christ of 1485 the excellent enlightened King D. João II of Portugal ordered to discover this land and put this pattern by Diogo Cão knight of his house."

 

Cape Cross is a small peninsula located 120 kilometres north of Swakopmund, capital of the Erongo region. A city of sun and beach, strongly marked by German colonial architecture.

 

Protected area since the late 1960s, the cape has a hotel unit, a colony of seals and fur seals with more than 100 thousand animals and two patterns: one erected in the nineteenth century by the Germans, with an imperial eagle, and another evocative of the landmark left by the Portuguese in the fifteenth century, placed in the 80s.

 

Diogo Cão was already on his second voyage as commander of the reconnaissance ships of the southwest African coast, when he arrived there in 1486. Already in the first of the voyages in the service of D. João II he had begun to use stone patterns to mark the Portuguese sovereignty over the territory (initially they were made of wood) – landmarks that were imposed on the landscape and that, such as their importance as references for navigation, immediately began to appear on the nautical charts used by European sailors.

 

Is it here that the Government of Namibia wants to put the standard when it is officially restored to it? Manuel Coelho, a Portuguese who has lived in Namibia for 61 years and is a permanent member of the Council of Portuguese Communities, hopes that Cabo da Cruz will not be the chosen destination.

 

"If the pattern goes back to the place where it was 400 years, it will most likely be destroyed, or at least damaged, as were many other statues from the time of the Germans that were here in the capital [Windhoek]," says this businessman, who travels the country frequently and who guarantees to know the Skeleton Coast like the back of his hand.

 

Since 2019, Manuel Coelho has been trying to find out from the Portuguese diplomatic authorities in Windhoek and the Namibian Government what can be done to remove the pattern from the warehouse. To no avail.

 

"It pains me to think that a 500-year-old pattern, one of the first left by Europeans on the African coast, has been boxed there for four years without anything being done. I was in Walvis Bay with a representative from the Berlin museum – I saw the pattern in 2019 when it arrived and was arranged in a customs warehouse. I also came with a box where I was told that there were human bones and other objects, but these I have not seen them anymore," recalls now this 74-year-old Portuguese who since the country's independence in 1990 says he wrote to two presidents of the Namibian Republic to ask for the return of the Cape of the Cross standard.

 

"Now I'm asking the governor of Erongo to let me go see him again, with Ambassador Portuguese [Luís Gaspar da Silva], to see if everything is in good condition."

 

Contacted by PÚBLICO, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MNE) in Lisbon naturally distanced itself from bilateral negotiations around a heritage that, being of Portuguese origin, is not Portuguese.

 

"With regard to the Diogo Cão Standard, Portugal is available to evaluate the provision of the support that is possible for assistance in the field of maintenance or restoration of that historical heritage, which may correspond to contact in this sense that may be established by the Namibian authorities, as was done, for example, in the case of the wreckage of the sixteenth-century Portuguese ship found in Oranjemund",  said MNE's official source. "The matter essentially concerns the negotiations on historical reparations that Namibia and Germany have in progress," adds the note sent to PÚBLICO, referring then to the agreement reached in 2021, "which includes the restitution of the Diogo Cão Standard."

 

An agreement in which Germany undertakes to invest a total of EUR 1.1 billion over 30 years, to be distributed among the various cooperation and development programmes already in place in Namibia, but which still seems incapable of guaranteeing the true reconciliation that both sides seek.

 

A genocide

To understand the root of the problem, one must go back in history. In 1884, Bismarck proclaimed that Namibia would become a German protectorate. Nine years later, Gottlieb Becker, commander of a ship anchored off the Cape of the Cross, carried the pattern Portuguese to Germany, where it was offered to Emperor Wilhelm II.

 

The German presence in that territory began to be strongly contested at the beginning of the twentieth century, and ended with tens of thousands of men, women and children killed, tortured or taken to the Calaari desert, where they would succumb to hunger, disease and fatigue in forced labor camps between 1904 and 1908. In this period, troops loyal to the German emperor fought against the Nama and Herero peoples, who rebelled against the colonial power.

 

Negotiations between Germany and Namibia to heal the wounds of this historic past gained intensity in 2015, when then-Foreign Minister Heiko Maas officially acknowledged that German punitive actions against Hereros and Namas should be called "genocide."

 

"Genocide" was also the word used in the joint declaration of the two states after reaching the €1.1 billion agreement to invest in rural and health infrastructure, and in cultural and vocational training programmes, aimed mainly at the descendants of those who survived the massacres of the 20th century, the British daily The Guardian wrote in May 2021.

 

This newspaper also noted that the joint declaration does not speak of "reparations" or "compensations" so as not to set a "legal precedent" capable of leading to similar demands from other countries.

 

In Namibia, the agreement between the two governments led to criticism from the representatives of the Nama and the Hereros, who did not feel represented at the negotiating table and who still insist today on the need to monetarily compensate their communities, in addition to the support programs already stipulated.

 

TNamas and Herero are minorities in Namibia, with the Ovambo being the dominant ethnicity. It is the descendants of the former who oppose an agreement that does not provide, for example, for the restitution of land set aside in the colonial period. And on their side are, unsurprisingly, the opposition parties.

 

An agreement of this nature between the two countries that does not involve the people decimated in what was the first genocide of the twentieth century is as paternalistic and humiliating as colonialism itself, they argue.

 

In the middle of this negotiation is a pattern Portuguese that Namibia has asked for back in Germany numerous times, one of them in the 1990s, with the intention of exhibiting it in its pavilion at Expo-98 in Lisbon.

 

"Until the internal question of who gets the money that Germany will pay is resolved, the standard does not come out of there," says Manuel Coelho. "He was caught in the middle of a delicate domestic political issue and even out there it's not easy. Everything that involves heritage from the colonial era, whatever country it is, is a subject that no one wants to pick up."

 

This businessman Portuguese knows that the standard will hardly make a new trip to Europe, because it is Namibian heritage, but does not deprive himself of dreaming: "What I really liked is that the standard, which is in the middle of this confusion of politics and money, was for Portugal, for the Navy Museum in Lisbon. The Namibian government will not want to spend money to protect it, because it is a symbol of the colonial era."


Monday, 20 March 2023

Controversy As Harry & Meghan Are Invited To The Coronation | Good Morning Britain / Harry and Meghan’s dilemma over Coronation invitation


Harry and Meghan’s dilemma over Coronation invitation

 

The Sussexes have confirmed that their Coronation invitation has been received but have so far not revealed if they plan to attend

 

By John Dunne@jhdunne

06 March 2023

https://www.standard.co.uk/news/uk/prince-harry-meghan-king-charles-coronation-invitation-frogmore-cottage-b1064997.html

 

The Duke and Duchess of Sussex are facing a dilemma after reportedly being invited to stay at Frogmore Cottage for the Coronation of the King.

 

It emerged last week that Harry and Meghan have been asked to vacate the property following their move to the US and the publication of the duke’s controversial memoir Spare. But the King is now said to have offered them an olive branch by inviting them to his Coronation on May 6 and saying they can stay in their former home.

 

Harry has consistently expressed fears over the security his family receives when they visit the UK after they were stripped of their full Scotland Yard protection team detail. Frogmore is within the grounds of the Windsor estate and as such the Grade II listed cottage has full police protection.

 

The Sussexes have confirmed that their Coronation invitation has been received but have so far not revealed if they plan to attend — or stay at Frogmore. In a statement, a spokesman for the couple said Harry had “recently received email correspondence from His Majesty’s office regarding the Coronation. An immediate decision on whether the duke and duchess will attend will not be disclosed by us at this time”.

 

The King is said to have told officials to give the Sussexes notice to quit the cottage and to move their belongings out the day after Harry’s autobiography was released. The book was critical of the royal family and alleged that Camilla, the Queen Consort, leaked stories to the press to boost her own image.

 

Harry also claimed the Prince of Wales physically “attacked” him in a row about Meghan and described William as his “arch-nemesis”. The Coronation falls on the same day as their son Archie’s fourth birthday, adding another factor to consider.

 

However, royal commentator Richard Fitzwilliams told MailOnline that the couple should attend the crowning or risk becoming “irrelevant”.

 

He said: “It has always been clear that King Charles would invite Harry and Meghan to the Coronation. As a symbol of national unity, he believes this is important.

 

“However their response is uncertain and raises an acute dilemma for them. On the one hand, they want discussions with senior royals and accountability for what they believe they went through when they were senior working royals. They believe that, together with the press, the royal family sought to drive them into exile. They want an apology. They will not get it.

 

“The Sussexes have contracts with Netflix, Spotify and Random House. They only have these because they are members of the royal family. If they did not attend this momentous event they will seem very out of touch.”

 

Harry stirred up more controversy over the weekend in an interview when he described the King as an “emotionally distant” father. The duke told Dr Gabor Maté that with his own children he was “trying to smother them with love”, adding: “I feel a huge responsibility not to pass on any trauma or negative experiences that I’ve had as a kid or as a man growing up.”

 

In the interview, which was streamed live and cost viewers £19, he claimed he and Meghan were trying to “break the pattern” of divorce and childhood trauma. He also shared that he had encouraged the royal family to have therapy so they could “speak his language”. Dr Maté diagnosed the prince as having attention deficit disorder following his tours of Afghanistan.

 

Harry added: “I was also a fantastic candidate for the military. In the UK we tend to recruit from broken homes — individuals that are ready for it.”


Sunday, 19 March 2023

Everything you should know about King Charles's coronation / Get Your Tiara Ready. The Coronation Is Coming.


Get Your Tiara Ready. The Coronation Is Coming.

 

Gem-studded headpieces are traditional, so jewelers in Britain have been readying new styles as well as special creations to mark the event.

 




By Annabel Davidson

Published March 12, 2023

Updated March 13, 2023

https://www.nytimes.com/2023/03/12/fashion/jewelry-tiaras-coronation-london.html

 

LONDON — Some of the most valuable gems in the world, including the 530.2-carat Cullinan I diamond in the Sovereign’s Scepter, will be showcased May 6 during the coronation of King Charles III and his queen consort, Camilla, in Westminster Abbey.

 

At the moment of his coronation, the king will wear St. Edward’s Crown, a 17th-century solid gold frame set with rubies, amethysts, sapphires, garnets, topazes and tourmalines. And the queen consort will be crowned with Queen Mary’s Crown, which was recently altered to include three diamonds totaling more than 175 carats from Queen Elizabeth II’s personal collection.

 

That’s a lot of rock. But don’t mistake these items for jewelry; they are considered regalia, symbols of the monarch’s power. Tiaras are expected to be the jewelry attractions at the ceremony, which approximately 2,000 guests — from heads of state and royals from other countries to ordinary people of no official rank or title — are expected to attend.

 

“I think guests will be wearing them because there’s such a long tradition,” said Geoffrey Munn, who quite literally wrote the book on such headpieces (“Tiaras; A History of Splendour”). “And anyone can wear one. Tiaras don’t imply any kind of nobility or royalty whatever, but they are traditionally worn at coronations.”

 

 Jewelers throughout Britain have been creating tiaras in anticipation. Some companies, including De Beers and Asprey, are creating jewelry collections and special one-off items, while others are rebooting pieces with British themes.

 

A couple of years ago, the Swiss-born jeweler Cora Sheibani said, she was looking at her Cloud Collar, an openwork design of 18-karat gold links in the shape of clouds, and thought it would make a good tiara. “I put it on my head, snapped a selfie, put it on Instagram and asked, ‘Should I make a tiara?’” she said recently from her London showroom. “The amount of replies I got was insane.”

 

She said she didn’t think about it again until Queen Elizabeth died in September: “Fast forward, we have a coronation coming up, and I thought maybe now is the time.”

 

Ms. Sheibani designed the one-of-a-kind piece in the halo style, to sit along the crown of the head like a headband, rather than in the style of a traditional crown, worn level across the forehead. The piece is to be set with 6.9 carats of rose-cut diamonds, and was designed to be transformed into a necklace, the kind of multiuse adaptability that has become common in high jewelry in recent years.

 

David Morris, a jewelry house on New Bond Street, has also created a one-of-a-kind tiara in honor of the coronation, based on the trillium flower and set with more than 24 carats of rose-cut diamonds. (The family-owned brand also is making a commemorative ring in purplish-blue spinel, red spinel, and white diamond, which will be finished shortly.)

 

This is not the first time a coronation has led to a demand for tiaras. Cartier, for example, opened its store on Old Bond Street in 1902 in the lead-up to the coronation of Edward VII that summer, at the future king’s request. A spokesman for Cartier said 27 tiaras were ordered for that coronation.

 

Garrard, which was Crown Jeweler from 1843 to 2007, created Queen Mary’s crown in 1911 for the coronation of her husband, George V. The house’s current creative director, Sara Prentice, said, “Eight out of 10 times, when there’s a state banquet or similar occasion,” Catherine, the Princess of Wales, will be wearing a Garrard tiara.

 

“There’s always a huge increase in interest in tiaras and bespoke headbands whenever that happens,” Ms. Prentice noted.

 

In addition to new tiara creations, vintage pieces are also in demand for the event. “There has definitely been an increase in interest in tiaras since the queen died,” said Guy Burton, managing director of Hancocks, a vintage and antique jewelry store in the Burlington Arcade. “We have a selection available for rent, but people do tend to end up buying them.

 

“We have the Anglesey tiara in our stock at the moment,” he added, “which was worn by the Marchioness of Anglesey to Queen Elizabeth’s coronation, and by her mother to King Edward’s coronation.” (The price is available on request.)

 

And while the coronation preparations are centered in London, some jewelers on the Continent — particularly those at the Place Vendôme in Paris, the center of the high jewelry world — expect to have their work at the coronation as well. Boucheron, for example, has always been a favorite of British royals, while Chaumet is famed for its tiaras.

 

“With the coronation of Edward VII, and the organization of court balls, the opening ceremony of Parliament, and the opera galas, our archives show an increase in demand for tiaras, as the clients wished to buy new tiaras for their new dresses,” Jean-Marc Mansvelt, the house’s chief executive, wrote in an email. “It was at this time that Joseph Chaumet presented himself as a patented supplier to the English court and, as such, affixed the arms of the crown of England on the heading of his official letterhead.”

 

Mr. Mansvelt noted that the house’s most recent high jewelry collection, called Liens Inséparables (in English, Inseparable Links), included what he called “a head ornament,” a slender circlet of 18-karat white gold pavéd with 236 brilliant-cut diamonds and accented with a brilliant-cut diamond ranging from 1.5 to 1.79 carats.

 

Beyond Tiaras

Some of the special jewelry pieces being created to mark the coronation are linked to the king’s personal interests.

 

A one-of-a-kind butterfly brooch designed by Hirsh London, for example, is being created as a nod to the king’s enduring commitment to environmental issues. The gold and platinum wings are designed to move slightly, and the piece features a 1.76 carat fancy intense yellow diamond as well as yellow, green and cognac diamonds. (The price is available on application.)

 

“It is a tribute to a king that has always been close to nature,” said Sophia Hirsh, the business’s managing director.

 

Alex Monroe, an independent jeweler in London, wrote in an email that he is revisiting a charm bracelet that he initially designed in 2015 when Queen Elizabeth became Britain’s longest-reigning monarch after she surpassed the record set by Queen Victoria, of 63 years and 216 days.

 

“The palace asked me to design a collection of jewelry” for the Royal Collection Trust, Mr. Monroe wrote. “Of course I needed an ‘Access All Areas’ pass and had a wonderful few weeks wandering around the palace and gardens sketching away to my heart’s content.

 

“I made all sorts of fun pieces to celebrate: royal carriages, crowns and of course, corgis. The collection was a huge success so we’ve decided to revisit a piece for the king’s coronation, but we’ll be updating the design with some fun details.”

 

And Annoushka Ducas, a London jeweler who specializes in charms and other fine jewels, has designed the Crown Charm, a reproduction of St. Edward’s Crown. The frame, in 18-karat yellow and white gold, is set with emeralds, rubies and sapphires and with carved amethyst standing in for the crown’s purple velvet. The base of the charm was designed to open, so it functions like a locket.

 

The charm, priced at 4,500 pounds ($5,411) and scheduled for introduction April 5, is to be a limited edition of 100 pieces.

 

The Coronation Hallmark

Ms. Ducas’s charms are to be among the many items featuring the coronation hallmark, a special commemorative stamp designed by the British Hallmarking Council that may be added to any item made of gold, silver, platinum or palladium in Britain between March 1 and the end of 2024.

 

The mark itself features the king’s profile on an oval background, which can be added on request by one of Britain’s four assay offices; the charge is £1 plus tax for a standard-size stamp, which can be as large as 6 millimeters (0.23 inches), and £6.50 plus tax for other sizes. The offices are charged with marking all items made of precious metals to indicate that they have been independently tested and meet legal standards of purity. (In the recent past, commemorative hallmarks were created for the four of the seven jubilees of Queen Elizabeth’s reign, each one marking a significant milestone of her reign, as well as for her coronation in 1953.)

 

“I find it distinctively British in our slightly eccentric way when they bring in the commemorative hallmarks,” Jessie Thomas, a jeweler in London who specializes in bespoke rings, wrote in an email. “As I still do repairs, I like to consult our little ‘Bradbury’s Book of Hallmarks’ (my one dates from 1544-1985) to delight my clients with an exact dating of their inherited piece, based off a side profile of a past monarch and a leopard’s head in various forms.” (A leopard’s head hallmark indicates the piece was made in London.)

 

“As with anything to do with the monarchy,” she wrote, “the commemorative stamps are always popular and their uniqueness adds value to the piece.”

 

When Ms. Sheibani’s diamond-strewn cloud-link tiara is completed, it, too, will get the commemorative hallmark. “It completes it,” she said. “I think it’s a fun thing to have.”

 

The tiara is being completed at the workshops of Bentley & Skinner, antique jewelry specialists in London, which often work on vintage pieces. “They’ve cast the clouds in platinum, and then we’re setting rose-cut diamonds all around,” Ms. Sheibani said.

 

She usually has her designs realized at workshops in Germany, Switzerland and France. But this time, she said, “I thought I really should make a tiara with someone English.”

 

Will it be seen at a certain event on May 6? “I did tell one client who was ordering a cloud brooch that I was making a cloud tiara and she immediately said, ‘Oh yes, I’d buy it!’” Ms. Sheibani said.

 

No one can be entirely sure about who will be going. But British jewelers are prepared.



Saturday, 18 March 2023

Isabel Colegate obituary / VIDEO: 1985 The Shooting Party Official Trailer 1 .


Obituary

Isabel Colegate obituary

 

Author of The Shooting Party, the 1980 novel that was turned into a popular film starring James Mason and John Gielgud

 



Polly Pattullo

Wed 15 Mar 2023 18.15 GMT

https://www.theguardian.com/books/2023/mar/15/isabel-colegate-obituary

 

The writer Isabel Colegate, who has died aged 91, had her greatest success with The Shooting Party, published as a novel in 1980 and adapted into a film four years later. Like most of her 13 novels, it was set among the country-living English upper classes in the first half of the 20th century.

 

This was familiar home territory to Colegate, and although her writing never suggested she was inclined to tear down that privilege, she nevertheless sought to unravel the uneasy secrets of the grand English country house, often to a backdrop of war, politics and financial disarray.

 

In The Shooting Party, Colegate skilfully assembled a broad swathe of characters representing both the aristocrats of England in 1914 and those who served them. All seems set fair for a house party and a shoot, but there are undercurrents of conflicting ideas, and the violent death of a poacher signifies the end of that pre-first world war era. “Yes, he was only a peasant. But we all knew him, you see,” explains the teenage granddaughter of the house – one of Colegate’s strengths lay in portraying the nuances of class.

 

As the novel’s first line proclaims: “It caused a mild scandal at the time …” But not enough to frighten the horses. It was the coming conflict that would do that, as Colegate, too, acknowledged.

 

When the book came to be filmed, Colegate co-wrote the screenplay, and its starry cast included Dorothy Tutin, John Gielgud and James Mason. The book was also adapted for BBC Radio 4 in 2010, with Olivia Colman. In his foreword to the Penguin Modern Classics edition, Julian Fellowes, who wrote the Oscar-winning script for Gosford Park, wrote of his debt to Colegate; in 1981 the work won a WH Smith literary award.

 

Born in Lincolnshire, Isabel was the youngest of four daughters of Winifred (nee Worsley), the daughter of a Yorkshire squire, and Sir Arthur Colegate, a businessman and Conservative MP. Isabel spent a happy childhood in affluent and rural surroundings, both in Lincolnshire and, during the second world war, in Shropshire, in her father’s constituency, The Wrekin, and at Hovingham Hall, the vast Palladian stately home in north Yorkshire that was the family seat of the Worsley family (Katharine Worsley, later the Duchess of Kent, was brought up at Hovingham, and was Isabel’s first cousin).

 

After Runton school in Norfolk, in 1952 she went to work with the then literary agent Anthony Blond, a flamboyant figure who had just set up shop in London’s New Bond Street. Colegate, for whom the literary world would have been a suitable destination for a well-brought up and moneyed young woman with an interest in writing, was introduced to Blond when she was 19 by her future husband, Michael Briggs (they married in 1953), who had been at Oxford with him. Investing £50 in his business, she was, in theory, his partner.

 

However, as she recalled much later “I was too shy for what I think was not yet called networking, so I did the typing, kept the accounts and wrote what must have been deeply disheartening reader’s reports, so impossibly high were my standards.” Despite being confined to running the office, Colegate was clearly not a shrinking violet: when Blond, as he did, referred to her as “the girl” to visiting clients, Colegate would glare at him from behind her typewriter. This would compel Blond to backpedal and explain: “I see the girl’s not in today. My partner, Miss Colegate, might be kind enough …”

 

At the same time, she was writing her first novel, The Blackmailer. When Blond turned publisher in 1958, it was one of the first books of his new imprint, and was admired for its humour and incisive prose. Her next two novels, A Man of Power (1960) and The Great Occasion (1962), were also published by Blond, and in different ways examined Colegate’s interest in the clash between the world of aristocrats and new money.

 

Then came Statues in a Garden (1964), which to some extent foreshadowed The Shooting Party. Set during the summer of 1914 among the English aristocracy, Colegate exposed how sexual and financial shenanigans among the privileged and powerful led to disaster. The Observer’s reviewer described it as having “the right mixture of doomed fun, melancholy and faintly lascivious despair”.

 

Orlando King (1969), Orlando at the Brazen Threshold (1971) and Agatha (1973) came in rapid succession. Ranging over that familiar Colegate territory of powerful men and politics, and their downfall before, during and after the second world war, the three were republished in one volume as The Orlando Trilogy (1984) and later under the title Orlando King (2020). Her eighth novel was News from the City of the Sun (1979).

 

After The Shooting Party came a collection of short stories, A Glimpse of Sion’s Glory (1985), and three more novels, Deceits of Time (1988), The Summer of the Royal Visit (1991) and her last, Winter Journey (1995), followed. None, however, repeated her earlier success, although Winter Journey was relatively well reviewed with its ruminations on the lives of a brother (a photographer) and sister (an unlikely former MP) in late middle age reflecting on their pasts. For a time, Colegate’s focus and style seemed perhaps just a little out of fashion.

 

For nearly half a century, until 2007, Colegate and her husband, who was for many years chair of the Bath Preservation Trust, lived at Midford Castle, outside Bath. Together, they took much pleasure in restoring its 18th-century Gothic buildings complete with battlements, towers and a gatehouse.

 

They added a croquet lawn and swimming pool, and incorporated surrounding woodland and parkland, which they lovingly managed. In addition they renovated a house in Tuscany and spent summers there for many years.

 

Colegate’s one piece of non-fiction, A Pelican in the Wilderness (2002), and what was to be her last book, was inspired by the ruins of an 18th-century hermit’s cell that she discovered in woodlands around Midford Castle. Once it was rebuilt using the original stone, it became a place for her own contemplation and observation of nature. As she wrote: “The biggest roebuck will pass as close as 15ft, giving me time to smile at the lackadaisical way he dangles a sprig of hazel from his mouth.”

 

As in her novels, Colegate delves into a wide-ranging cast of characters in A Pelican in the Wilderness: in this case hermits and recluses of many vintages, from Saint Simeon Stylites to JD Salinger. She travelled widely for her research and used her observant eye to explore how history, religion and the natural world feature in the lives of her chosen figures.

 

From Midford Castle the couple moved to Mells, Somerset, and again spent some time in restoration work: this time, a house in the village. She was made FRSL in 1981, received an honorary MA from the University of Bath in 1988 and for some time was a book reviewer for the Times Literary Supplement and the Daily Telegraph.

 

Michael died in 2017. She is survived by two sons, Barnaby and Joshua, a daughter, Emily, eight grandchildren and two great-grandchildren.

 

 Isabel Diana Colegate, writer, born 10 September 1931; died 12 March 2023



Tracing Downton Abbey's lineage: the novel that inspired a TV hit

 

Isabel Colegate's The Shooting Party, published in 1980, is an acknowledged influence on Julian Fellowes's ratings monster. But what can we glean from it about where the story will go?

 

Beulah Maud Devaney

Mon 11 Nov 2013 14.42 GMT

https://www.theguardian.com/books/booksblog/2013/nov/11/downton-abbey-novel-tv-isabel-colegate-shooting-party

 

With the arrival of news that Downton Abbey is to return for a fifth series, speculation rises over what Julian Fellowes has in store for us. How long can Mary's vision withstand the punishing regime of never-ending eye-rolling over Edith's love life? Will Carson ever recover from Mrs Hughes installing an electric toaster? Has Daisy finally learned to breathe through her nose? For those starting to wonder if Downton is in danger of going on so long that it catches up with the 21st century, there is one book that reveals Fellowes's motivations, intentions and predilections: The Shooting Party by Isabel Colegate.

 

Set in 1913, the novel comprises one day in the life of a large country house. The men are guffawing and shooting, the ladies are frostily lunching and servants dart hither and thither like beleaguered nymphs as Colegate meditates on Fellowes' favourite themes: frustration, friction between the classes, tradition v progress, and the imminent disintegration of an aristocratic world. The day culminates in a moment of tragedy that tugs at the tightly woven lives of the masters and their servants and forces both groups to realise the extent of their dependence on each other.

 

When The Shooting Party was published in 1980, the popular representation of the aristocracy was as a bunch of bungling toffs: weak chins and weak morals abounded, while servitude was either mocked or ignored. Colegate, however, chose to dispense with these tropes and present everyone as humans instead of saints or villains. The book, written at the height of Thatcherism, is a precursor to Fellowes's forelock-tugging that shows both poor and rich characters in a sympathetic light.

 

In his introduction to the 2004 edition of The Shooting Party, Fellowes was quick to acknowledge that his screenplay for Gosford Park owed a great deal to the film adaptation of Colegate's novel: "without it the seed of the idea behind my script would never have been allowed to germinate". However, at the time of writing Gosford Park Fellowes had not yet read the book, and in Robert Altman was working with a director notorious for his fractious relationships with screenwriters. As a result of Fellowes's novice status and Altman's heavy hand on the tiller, Gosford Park ended up owing far more to Agatha Christie's whodunnits than to Isabel Colegate.

 

Once Gosford Park had hoovered up its Oscar nominations and Fellowes had completed the transformation from actor to respected screenwriter, he finally got around to actually reading The Shooting Party. The result is that Colegate's influence runs throughout the four series of Downton: the aristocratic family, the restless young women, the grouchy cook; entire scenes hanging on missing cufflinks. Kemal Pamuk, who vigorously romanced Mary in the first series, has a Colegate counterpart in Count Rakassyi, while Robert's overreliance on tradition echoes that of The Shooting Party's beleaguered host, Sir Randolph.

 

The similarities between Downton and The Shooting Party are most apparent in the final scene of the novel, when the landowner Lord Hartlip endangers the life of one of the gamekeepers by deviating from "the rules of the game". Fellowes, in turn, has developed all four series around Robert's well-meaning but near-disastrous mismanagement of Downton Abbey. Critics have griped about the amount of time spent discussing entails and dodgy overseas investments, but the series is largely powered by Robert's repeated gambling of the estate on shares and his constant hope that some woman, somewhere in his family, will produce a son.

 

It is the suggestion of dry rot within their protagonist families that links Fellowes and Colegate as writers and offers an insight into the eventual demise of Downton. Colegate is concerned with characters who are unable to break away from the established traditions, often at the expense of their own happiness. Everyone is trapped in the role assigned to them at the beginning of the book, and the result is a novel powered by nostalgia and pathos.

 

In his introduction, however, Fellowes takes this doomy outlook as a rallying cry: "If we cannot defend our own values against the trivial, fluctuating fashions in morality, then we are lost." While Lord Fellowes valiantly defends a life that was built upon the subjugation of the many and the profit of the few he is simultaneously steering Downton Abbey towards the same conclusion as The Shooting Party. With Robert reacting to Matthew's death and relinquishment of the estate in the manner of Augustus Gloop confronted with a chocolate river, Downton is once again in danger. The fun remains in deciding if Fellowes will stay true to Colegate's novel or if he will keep Downton afloat long enough for George Osborne to move in.