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Friday 13 September 2024
Wednesday 11 September 2024
Tuesday 10 September 2024
The J.Crew Catalog Is Back—and Preppier Than Ever
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The
J.Crew Catalog Is Back—and Preppier Than Ever
The heritage
brand relaunched an updated version of the iconic booklet with its fall
campaign taking center stage.
By Sophie DweckPublished: Sep 04, 2024 2:59 PM EDT
https://www.townandcountrymag.com/style/fashion-trends/a62057550/jcrew-catalog-relaunch-news-2024/
Seven years after J.Crew discontinued its iconic mail-order
catalog that reached thousands of dedicated American shoppers for decades, the
heritage brand has relaunched a new version with its fall campaign taking
center stage.
So what can the J.Crew shoppers of 2024 expect? The updated
catalog features the label's signature preppy aesthetic that readers have known
and loved for years, but with a contemporary twist. It's filled to the brim
with campaign imagery, but the latest booklet makes space for editorial content
with Q&A interviews as well.
J.Crew plans to publish three times per year, starting with
the the current fall catalog which comes in four different covers, including
one with '90s icon and J.Crew mega-fan Demi Moore. According to the brand, each
catalog will also "spotlight a mix of multi-generational faces that
capture the essence of J.Crew’s city-meets-coast DNA."
Inside the pages of the Fall catalog, which was crafted in
partnership with Parisian-based creative design studio Atelier Franck Durand,
you'll find all sorts of coastal-inspired looks featuring pieces from J.Crew's
new collection, as well as slew of country essentials (think: barn jackets and
wool coats) and fall city staples, such as blazers, loafers, and cashmere
sweaters.
In addition to the printed edition, the catalog will be
available in all J.Crew stores as an immersive in-app experience and will be
integrated in a variety of consumer-focused activations in New York City
throughout September.
Sophie Dweck
Sophie Dweck is the associate shopping editor for Town &
Country, where she covers beauty, fashion, home and décor, and more.
REMEMBERING: The Rise And Fall Of J.Crew
J.Crew Group, Inc., is an American multi-brand,
multi-channel, specialty retailer. The company offers an assortment of women's,
men's, and children's apparel and accessories, including swimwear, outerwear,
lounge-wear, bags, sweaters, denim, dresses, suiting, jewelry, and shoes.
As of August 2016, it operated more than 450
retail stores throughout the United States. The company conducts its business
through retail, factory, crew cuts, Madewell stores, catalogs, and online.
On May 4, 2020, the company announced that it
would apply for bankruptcy protection amidst the COVID-19 pandemic.
History
Formation
and catalog growth
In 1947,
Mitchell Cinader and Saul Charles founded Popular Merchandise, Inc., a store
that did business as Popular Club Plan and sold low-priced women's clothing
marketed through in-home demonstrations.[6] Throughout the mid-1980s, sales
from catalog operations grew rapidly. "Growth was explosive—25 to 30
percent a year," Cinader later recollected in The New York Times. Annual
sales grew from $3 million to more than $100 million over five years.[6] In
1985, the "Clifford & Wills" brand was launched, selling women's
clothing that was more affordable than the Popular Merchandise line. In 1987,
two executives left the company to start their own catalog, Tweeds.
The 1980s
marked a booming sales period for catalog retail giants Lands' End, Talbots,
and L. L. Bean. Popular Merchandise initiated its own catalog operation,
focusing on leisurewear for upper-middle-class customers, aiming for a Ralph
Lauren look at a much lower price. The first Popular Club Plan catalog was
mailed to customers in January 1983 and continued under that name until 1989.
Popular Club Plan catalogs often showed the same garment in more than one
picture with close-up shots of the fabrics, so customers could get a sense of
how the garment looked on the body and be assured of the company's claims of
quality.
Name change
and first stores
In 1983,
Popular Merchandise, Inc. became known as J.Crew, Inc. The company attempted,
but failed to sell the Popular Club Plan brand.[6] Also in 1989, J.Crew opened
its first retail store, in South Street Seaport in downtown Manhattan.
J.Crew
Group was owned by the Cinader family for most of its existence, but in October
1997 investment firm Texas Pacific Group Inc. purchased a majority stake. By
the year 2000, Texas Pacific held an approximate 62 percent stake, a group of
J.Crew managers held about 10 percent, and Emily Cinader Woods, the chairman of
J.Crew, along with her father, Arthur Cinader, held most of the remainder. The
brand Clifford & Wills was sold to Spiegel. in 2000 with the intent to
boost sales. In 2004, J.Crew bought the rights to the brand Madewell, a defunct
workwear manufacturer founded in 1937, and used the name from 2006 onwards as
"a modern-day interpretation", targeted at younger women than their
main brand.
Going
public and then private again
In 2006,
the company held an IPO, raising $376 million by selling new shares equal to
33% of expanded capital. However, in 2011, TPG Capital LP and Leonard Green
& Partners LP took J.Crew private again in a $3 billion leveraged buyout.
On November 23, 2010, the company had agreed to be taken private in a $3
billion deal led by management with the backing of TPG Capital and Leonard
Green & Partners, two large private equity firms. The announcement of the
offer from two investment firms—including one that used to own J.Crew—came as
the retailer reported that its third-quarter net income fell by 14 percent due
to weak women's clothing sales. The company also lowered its guidance for the
2010 year. Under the deal as proposed, J.Crew shareholders would receive $43.50
per share in cash, representing a 16 percent premium to the stock's closing
price the prior day of $37.65. CEO Mickey Drexler, the former Gap Inc. chief
credited with turning J.Crew around since coming aboard in 2003, remained in
that role and retained a "significant" stake in the company (as of
September 2010, he holds 5.4% of outstanding shares).
Shortly
after the announcement of the deal, some in the business community criticized
the terms of the deal involving the company's CEO and a majority shareholder.
As a result, the "go-shop" period was extended shortly after the
initial announcement.In addition, several investigations relating to potential
shareholder actions against the company were announced.[19] After the deal, TPG
and Leonard Green borrowed more to help finance dividends totaled $787 million
to them.
Recent
In June
2015, The New York Times reported that J.Crew's women's division was undergoing
a slump because of the company's failure to react to two market trends: cheap
"fast fashion" and "athleisure" items. In 2016, J.Crew partnered
with Nordstrom to begin selling their products in stores and online. In
December 2016, the company faced litigation after it moved its intellectual
property "out of the reach of lenders."
In April
2017, the company cut 250 jobs, largely from its headquarters. The company also
underwent several management changes, and long-term creative director Jenna
Lyons left the company in April. The brand's longtime head of menswear, Frank
Muytjens, left the company that month as well, and in June 2017, the company's
CEO, Mickey Drexler, announced that he would later be stepping down as CEO role
after 14 years with the company. Drexler announced he would stay on as chairman
and still own 10% of the company. On June 12, 2017, J.Crew Group Inc. announced
it had "made an offer to some of its bondholders to push back its most
pressing debt obligation—about $567 million due in May 2019—and amend its term
loan." At the time, J.Crew Group had around $2 billion in debt. Also in
2017, Drexler approached Amazon Inc about selling J.Crew to the tech giant.
In the
summer of 2017, the company avoided a bankruptcy filing by having bondholders
do a debt swap tapping into its brand name value. The majority of the
bondholders agreed to the deal, with several others failing to stop the deal
with a lawsuit. The deal lowered the company's debt.
In
September 2018, J.Crew began selling its standalone "J.Crew
Mercantile" brand on Amazon.
On February
16, 2018, J.Crew hired Adam Brotman, a long-time Starbucks executive, as
president and chief experience officer. Brotman's first major impact was
launching "J.Crew Rewards", the company's first reward program
independent of the company's credit card. The rewards program offers free
shipping and $5 back for each $200 spent.
In November
2018, J.Crew announced its CEO, James Brett, would step down and be replaced by
an office of the CEO consisting of four senior executives from J.Crew. Brett
took up the position in June 2017. The company released a press release stating
Brett's departure was a "mutual agreement" between Brett and the
company's board of directors. Brett will be replaced by Michael Nicholson
(president and COO), Adam Brotman (president and chief experience officer),
Lynda Markoe (chief administrative officer), and Libby Wadle, president of
Madewell Brand. The new office of the CEO will be responsible for managing
J.Crew's operations as the board establishes a permanent management structure.
On November 29, J.Crew announced the dissolution of their Nevereven,
Mercantile, and J.Crew Home sub-brands.
On April
11, 2019, J.Crew announced that president and COO, Michael Nicholson, will
retain the title of interim CEO, along with the subsequent announcement of
Brotman's departure.
J.Crew
reported a net income of $1.5 million in the fourth quarter of 2019, up from a
net loss of $74.4 million in quarter four of 2018.
On January
28, 2020, the retailer announced that Jan Singer will assume title of CEO.
Singer was previously CEO of Victoria's Secret, Spanx and was an executive at
Nike.[42] She will replace Nicholson who will assume his previous position.
On May 4,
2020, J.Crew filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection as a result of the
COVID-19 pandemic, although the company had amassed enormous debt even before
the outbreak.
Chinos
Holdings, Inc. and 17 affiliated debtors filed Chapter 11 bankruptcy in the
United States District Court for the Eastern District of Virginia. The Debtors
have requested joint administration of the cases under Case No. 20-32181.
In
September 2020, J Crew permanently closed all six of its UK stores after its
parent group emerged from Chapter 11 bankruptcy following an approval plan to
cut its debts.
In November
2020, J.Crew appointed new Chief Executive Officer. Libby Wadle replaced Jan
Singer who had been a CEO for less than a year.
Retail
stores
The company
operates 506 retail stores, including 203 J.Crew stores, 129 Madewell stores,
and 174 J.Crew Factory (including 42 J.Crew Mercantile) outlet locations, as
reported in 2018. The company also operates internationally in Canada, France,
the UK, and Hong Kong. Additionally, the company has 76 locations in Japan,
which are operated under license by ITOCHU Corporation.
In March
1989, the first J.Crew retail outlet opened in the South Street Seaport in
Manhattan, and the company planned to open 45 more stores. Five months after
the opening of its first store, J.Crew added two new catalog lines:
"Classics" and "Collections." "Collections" used
more complicated designs and finer fabrics to create dressier and more expensive
items, while "Classics" featured clothes that could be worn both to
work and for leisure activities.[citation needed] In the fall of 1989, J.Crew
opened three new stores in Chestnut Hill, Massachusetts; San Francisco,
California; and Costa Mesa, California, all locations with strong catalog
sales. By the end of the year, retail sales nearly hit $10 million. Despite
1989, revenues that year were estimated at $320 million, J.Crew suffered a
setback when its agreement to sell its Popular Club unit collapsed at the end
that year. In addition, rumors circulated that the company's Clifford &
Wills low-priced women's apparel catalog was doing poorly.
J.Crew saw
revenues reach $400 million in 1990 but reported that its four existing stores
had not yet started producing enough profits to cover their overheads. The next
phase of store openings included outlets in Philadelphia, Cambridge, and
Portland. The company scaled back its plans for opening retail stores from 45
stores to 30 or 35.[citation needed] In early 1991 the company hired a director
of new marketing development and began efforts to expand their sales into
Canada. In April 1991, J.Crew mailed 75,000 J.Crew catalogs and 60,000 Clifford
& Wills catalogs to potential customers in the province of Ontario.
Response rates to this effort were slightly lower than in the United States,
but each order, on average, was higher.[citation needed] In 1992, J.Crew
intensified its push into international markets by hiring a new vice-president
for international development. The company already mailed hundreds of catalogs
to customers in Japan and Europe, most of whom had become acquainted with
J.Crew while traveling or living in the United States.
J.Crew in
Markville Shopping Centre (now closed)
In 2011,
J.Crew opened its first international store in the Yorkdale Shopping Centre in
Toronto.[50] In 2012, J.Crew announced four new Canadian locations: Edmonton in
West Edmonton Mall, Vancouver on Robson Street, and Toronto in Fairview Mall
(now closed) and the Toronto Eaton Centre. All locations will carry women's and
men's collections. Along with 5 new stores, although some of these stores have
been closed recently. J.Crew announced to opening of two new factory stores in
Canada, with one in Vaughan Mills and the other in Edmonton (The second J.Crew
in Alberta) Continuing with its expansion in the Greater Toronto Area, J.Crew
opened at Markville Shopping Centre in 2013 (and now closed). In early 2014,
J.Crew unveiled its new flagship location in Yorkville, Toronto.
In an
interview with the Financial Times in 2011, CEO of J.Crew Mickey Drexler said
that J.Crew would be expanding to the U.K. with their flagship store being on
London's Regent Street. He indicated that the company would be following up
their recent expansion into Canada and Canadian e-commerce with a physical
store in England, most likely followed by e-commerce elsewhere, such as France
and Germany. Although a few locations were reviewed for the London store,
including Covent Garden and the East End, the ultimate decision was to open on
Regent Street.
In early
2014, J.Crew announced plans to open brick-and-mortar locations in Asia – to be
spearheaded by two establishments in Hong Kong. A women's store is slated to
open in the International Finance Centre, while a men's shop is in the works
for On Lan Street. Both opened for business in May 2014.
From 2016
to 2018, J.Crew Group has closed 96 J.Crew and J.Crew Factory retail locations.
On March 2,
2020, J.Crew announced that it would pause the proposed Madewell IPO that was
intended to be initiated on March 2. The company is considering a possible
separation of J.Crew and Madewell into two separate companies.
Marketing
Historically,
each year the company issued 24 editions of the J.Crew catalog, distributing
more than 80 million copies. Beginning in 2017, the catalog began being
released with fewer pages and fewer issues per year.
J.Crew has
been criticized for labeling its new super-small jeans as "size
000"., and for advertising them as "toothpick jeans". Critics
have said the labeling promotes vanity, a practice known as vanity sizing. The
"size 000" is smaller than a size zero and has three zeros, implying
that it is two sizes smaller than the smallest normal size. This has caused
people to question whether negative sizes will be available in the future, and
if the method of labeling should be changed.
In early
2011, J.Crew was under fire by conservative media outlets for an advertisement
featuring its creative director and president, Jenna Lyons, painting her son's
toenails pink. Beneath the picture was a quote that read, "Lucky for me I
ended up with a boy whose favorite color is pink." Some people were of the
opinion that J.Crew was challenging traditional gender identity roles, although
author Jo B. Paoletti said that it was "no big deal".
Monday 9 September 2024
The Laco B-Uhr – A Flieger Watch Review
There are
some watch designs that not only stand the test of time, but in the case of
war, also transcend their original context to become a classic. Such a watch,
the B-Uhr, the offspring of Germany and Switzerland’s leading watchmakers, has
a noted history of design and production, but was employed for an infamous
cause. The B-Uhren watches guided German bombers in their terrible campaigns of
World War II with dropped bombs whistling through air to end in devastating
consequence. The B-Uhr remains a formidable watch.
In 1935,
Adolf Hitler announced his plans to reconstitute Germany’s Air Force and
officially created the Luftwaffe. Germany had been building its aviation
forces, decidedly military in purpose and in violation of WWI’s Versailles
Treaty, but this buildup had proceeded ostensibly for civilian purposes. With
his power consolidated, Hitler shrugged off all pretense and announced
Germany’s resumption of military procurement. Prior to 1935, the Heinkel He 111
bomber supposedly existed as a transport plane just as the National Socialist
Party supposedly sought to establish peace and prosperity. Though few
(including watchmakers) knew it at the time, Germany was preparing for war.
Schematic-WFThe
RLM (Reichs-Luftfahrtministerium), responsible for aircraft development, also
sought a commensurate time piece for its bomber navigators. The 1935 conceptual
designs first specified an hour angle indication like the Lindbergh watch (see
here), but this specification was dropped, and standard criteria emerged,
making the B-Uhr instantly recognizable.
These
watches were big. 55mm big. The size accommodated large hand-wound movements
typically used in pocket watches, but the B-Uhr was always to be a watch for
the wrist. Each one used a Breguet balance spring. Inside, the movement was
surrounded by an iron core, making the B-Uhr anti-magnetic – a must for
aviation. To correct for time discrepancies, the movements were capable of
stopping the central seconds hand by pulling the crown, or hacking, and the
oversized diamond or onion crown could be operated with gloves on the hand. A
very long, double-riveted leather strap, long enough to go over the leather
flight jacket, held the B-Uhr in place.
The large
size made them unambiguously legible and their black dials with white Arabic
numerals further aided the task of precise reading. The flame-blued sword hands
were covered in luminous material as was the distinguishing upwards-orientation
triangle or arrow at the twelve o’clock position, accompanied by two dots on
the Type A models. The initial Type A model had only an outer chapter ring, but
the later type B (starting in 1941) had an outer ring for minutes/seconds and
an inner ring for hours. Each case had FL23883 engraved on the left side. FL
designated flieger, and 23 identified the watch as a navigation watch. The
snap-off case back had the following identifying information on its inside:
type (Bauart), production number (Gerät-Nr.), movement (Werk-Bez.), order
number (Anforderz), and manufacturer (Hersteller). The RLM and its partner
watch manufacturers produced a novel design, which would attain cult status.
B-Uhren is
an abbreviation for Beobachtungs-uhren, literally Observation watches. B-Uhr is
singular, and B-Uhren is plural. The B-Uhren were property of the Luftwaffe,
not the navigators. The navigator was issued his watch before flight, and then
returned the watch after completing the mission. Navigators received a signal
beep from the airbase, which in turn set its chronometer to the standard time
of the German Naval Observatory (Deutsche Seewarte), and if the navigator’s
time was off, the hacking mechanism allowed for adjustment. An accurate watch
was necessary for navigation, so all the B-Uhren watches were regulated and
tested to the highest chronometer standards of the Deutsche Seewarte in
Hamburg. Bomber navigators peered over the navigation table, their B-Uhren at
the ready, and plotted course, copied astronomical fixes and noted events on
the map. The B-Uhr was a consummate navigational aid.
Five
manufacturers – four German and one Swiss – supplied the B-Uhren. In Germany,
A. Lange & Söhne, Wempe, Lacher & Company/Durowe (Laco), and Walter
Storz (Stowa) produced the watch. Wempe and Stowa used Swiss movements; Wempe
settled on the Thommen cal. 31, and Stowa used the Unitas cal. 2812. Lange used
its big cal. 48 and then its cal. 48.1, and Laco used its (Durowe) cal. 5 – the
only two companies to use in-house German movements. When Wempe purchased the
Chronometerwerk in Hamburg in 1938, it gained a significant increase in
production capacity, and to assist the limited production faced by Lange and
Laco, Wempe assembled watches for them. To meet demand, Lange also sent
ébauches and cases to a variety of other manufacturers for assembly and
regulation. In smaller numbers, the Swiss International Watch Company IWC who
supplied watches to both Axis and Allied forces, manufactured the B-Uhr (cal.
52T S.C.) for the Luftwaffe. These five companies were the only ones to make
the B-Uhr.
Today, the
available Lange or Wempe B-Uhren are vintage watches from the war, and if you
can find one, they come with hefty price tags. IWC’s Big Pilot watch is an
evolution from the B-Uhr, having its predecessor’s DNA, but sporting an adapted
design. This is a watch made for aviation, and as such, retains an
anti-magnetic feature – the only current watch to do so. Unlike its no-frills
B-Uhr predecessor, the Big Pilot elevates the navigational concept to a higher
echelon of quality and function, providing a luxury timepiece (see here).
Stowa, now
owned by watchmaker Jörg Schauer, offers a nice homage to the B-Uhr in a
dressier version (see here). The case is polished, the movement decorated,
visible through a transparent case back, and the 40mm size is the smallest of
this group. They also offer a date window option. Stowa makes a fine watch, but
be prepared to wait for its arrival – demand far exceeds production.
Laco offers
a wide range of movement choices, providing a greater range of affordability,
but its watches featuring ETA and hand winding movements are the watches of
note. In these, Laco produces what might be termed a reproduction, having
carefully recreated the design of the original watch down to the smallest
detail, from the dial design to the FL23883 engraved on the case’s side to the
inner case back information ingeniously moved to the outside. These Laco
watches measure 42mm and 45mm (see here). Both Stowa and Laco offer flame blued
hands, sapphire crystal, riveted leather straps, superb luminosity and Type A
and B models. Of the original manufacturers, IWC, Stowa and Laco each offer a
contemporary B-Uhr choice.
Sunday 8 September 2024
How Versace Brought Ancient Greek Mythology Into Fashion / VILLA VERSACE "Domus Aurea with Neo Classical Obsessions"
How
Versace Brought Ancient Greek Mythology Into Fashion
By
Nick
Kampouris
August 4,
2024
https://greekreporter.com/2024/08/04/versace-ancient-greek-mythology-fashion/
Ancient
Greece has always captivated the minds of fashion designers, but Versace is the
one brand that has so many clear connections to ancient Greek aesthetics that
they just can’t be ignored.
In the world
of luxury fashion, very few names shine as brightly as Versace. Renowned for
its popular bold designs and sought-after elegance, Versace stands out for its
true craftsmanship. However, what is obvious is that this loved-by-millions
Italian brand has a deep-rooted connection to ancient Greek culture.
At the heart
of this intriguing connection lies the brand’s iconic logo. Versace’s symbol is
a sign that perfectly exemplifies the company’s affinity to a civilization that
has long inspired the world in so many different fronts, including the world of
fashion.
The roots of
Versace’s love affair with ancient Greece
The brand
was founded in 1978 by Gianni Versace. This Italian pioneer was a figure whose
influence on the fashion industry remains unparalleled to this day.
Versace was
born in 1946 in the south of Italy in Calabria, an area once known as “Magna
Graecia” or “Greater Greece.” Versace grew up in a region that was surrounded
by ancient Greek history and mythology. This influenced his creative vision
deeply, as the environment in which he grew up was, in a sense, truly Greek. A
prodigy in the world of design, he soon became known for his ability to blend
classical elements of art with modern sensuality. This unique blend made
Versace’s collections sought-after.
Grecian
Delight supports Greece
Gianni’s
fascination with the Greek culture and, particularly, ancient Greek aesthetics
was, for him, both a stylistic choice and a real homage to a civilization that
flourished in his birthplace and celebrated beauty, power, and the minimalistic
human form.
Through his
innovative designs, Versace redefined fashion. He mixed the opulence of ancient
Greece with the special traits of contemporary life, leaving a legacy that
continues to inspire.
Versace
conquers the world of fashion
Due to his
exceptional talent, it didn’t take long until the brand quickly rose to
prominence. Versace became globally known for its innovative designs and daring
nature, captivating the souls and minds of millions of customers worldwide.
Because
Gianni’s childhood was marked by a clear interest in Greek mythology and
history, this shaped his professional career deeply. It was a passion that
would later be used in Versace’s creations with a unique and distinctive
character. This fascination managed to become the foundation upon which the
brand was built. Ancient Greek inspiration became key to defining the brand
with the grandeur of ancient civilizations and obtaining its unique character.
The design
patterns of Versace reflect the company’s deep admiration for the Greek
culture, and this is abundantly evident by its use of motifs and themes that
reflect the tales and choices of ancient Greece.
The
relatively short journey of this glamorous brand exemplifies how Gianni
Versace’s visionary approach merged the past with the present. His inspiration
created garments that are not simply clothes. They are pieces of art as well as
fashion statements.
The Medusa
logo: The symbolism behind Versace’s iconic logo
The choice
of Medusa as the logo of Versace is the frontal evidence of Gianni’s genius.
Additionally, it showcased his ability to draw significant symbolism from
ancient Greek mythology and turn it into powerful fashion messages.
According to
Greek mythology, Medusa was once a beautiful maiden. However, her hair was
turned into snakes by the goddess Athena as a form of punishment. This curse
made her look so terrifying that people who dared to lay eyes on her would turn
to stone.
Yet, for
Versace, Medusa represented something completely different. For him, she was
the definition of beauty, irresistibility, and represented the power of being
different to the masses. This reinterpretation of Medusa’s popular story
aligned perfectly with the image of the brand that Versace wanted to create.
Today, the allure of Versace’s designs is undeniable. It continues to grow in
popularity by captivating those who gaze upon their bold patterns.
At this
point, we should point out that Medusa’s image also conveys a message of
strength and empowerment. Through the eyes of Gianni Versace, these little
things became traits that the company aspires to transfer to those who chose to
use their products.
Of course,
largely due to Versace, this emblem managed to become something bigger than a
logo. It is a statement and declaration of the brand’s bold Greek inspirations.
Through Medusa, Versace brought a message of beauty that transforms no matter
how different it might look to the eyes of the ordinary people.
Versace’s
timeless aesthetic inspired by ancient Greece
Versace’s
timeless collections are a testament to the global appeal of Greek motifs and
patterns. These ancient symbols have been cleverly adapted to fit today’s world
of modern luxury fashion with great success.
The Greek
key pattern, for example, also known as the meander or “meandros,” symbolizes
the pure form of infinity and unity. This iconic element is always prominently
featured in Versace’s clothing, accessories, and even the interiors of its
boutique stores. It continues to serve as a constant reminder of the brand’s
roots in ancient Greek art.
Each piece
of the Versace line tells a story. It is a story of beauty and myth, of past
and present. It ensures Versace’s followers that wearing their brand doesn’t
just offer them a fashion statement but an experience and connection to the
cultural heritage of Greece.
Versace’s
journey beyond the runway
Following
Gianni’s assasination in 1997, Donatella Versace, Gianni’s sister, took over.
Under her leadership, the brand never stopped honoring its Greek-inspired
heritage. Donatella’s tenure saw Versace embrace modern trends and
technologies. Nonetheless, the essence of ancient Greece remained a cornerstone
of the brand’s identity.
This
delicate but beautiful balance between innovation and tradition has managed to
ensure Versace’s place in the pantheon of luxury fashion. This is the reason
why Versace’s influence extends beyond the runway. It became, over the years, a
cultural icon with its designs featuring in movies, music videos, and
red-carpet events.
The brand’s
ability to stay relevant and continually reinvent itself while staying true to
its roots is a testament to the lasting legacy of its founder and the timeless
appeal of its Greek inspirations.
The timeless
allure of Greek-inspired fashion
From the
Medusa logo to the meander, Versace has masterfully crafted a modern way of
paying respects to the rich heritage of Greece.
The brand
has created a unique identity that is not just timeless but also exceptionally
contemporary and modern. This serves as proof that the past can indeed inform
the present.
VILLA VERSACE "Domus Aurea with Neo Classical
Obsessions"
After the
dramatic murder of Gianni Versace in Miami (1997 at the age of 50), the
magnificent contents of his Villa on Lake Como were sold at Sotheby's in London
on March 18, 2009, constituting an auction with 546 Lots
'Sotheby's' , London, 18 de March 2009
Saturday 7 September 2024
Netflix's 'The Perfect Couple' to Film in Chatham
Denise
Coffey, George Kostinas | Cape Cod Times
23 hours ago
Hollywood
turns Chatham into Nantucket for filming of a Netflix series "The Perfect
Couple based on Elin Hilderbrand novel of the same name.
"The
Perfect Couple," a Netflix series starring Nicole Kidman, Dakota Fanning,
Liev Schreiber and others, debuted today on the streaming service.
Adapted from
Elin Hilderbrand’s 2018 novel of the same name, the murder mystery at a wedding
is set on Nantucket and was filmed on the island, in Chatham and even in
Hyannis for a day.
With the
film’s release, viewers will get a glimpse into the lives of the rich and
famous, or at least a glimpse inside the mind of Hilderbrand. Living on
Nantucket since 1994, and with 28 books to her credit, she’s got a lot to offer
those who want a stunningly visual read of her mystery.
A Chatham
neighborhood is the backdrop
View |6
Photos
Photos:
Picketers stop Netflix's filming of Perfect Couple in Chatham
Writers and
supporters of the Writers Guild of America picketed two locations of the
Perfect Couple during production on the Cape last year.
The private
Eastward Point neighborhood in Chatham serves as a backdrop for the family
drama. It’s not hard to imagine the gorgeous home fronting Pleasant Bay fitting
right in on Nantucket.
And to give
that real Nantucket feel to the story there are scenes from the island itself.
Filming in
2023 was interrupted when members of the Writers Guild of America and their
supporters picketed Chatham sites. Streets in the neighborhood were blocked off
during the shooting of the film to keep the picketers, and curious bystanders
away.
View |5
Photos
Pertfect
Couple Netflix series filming Hyannis Inner Harbor
Production
crews for the Netflix movie The Perfect Couple filled the Hyannis Inner Harbor
filming several scenes around the Grey Lady Ferry.
How 'Perfect
Couple' film crews made Chatham into Nantucket
In April
2023, on Orleans Road in North Chatham, film crews constructed a fake Nantucket
police station between Chatham Light Liquors and the Chatham Perk coffee shop.
A white entrance way with columns and a sign reading "Nantucket
Police," went up, right in front two vehicles marked as Nantucket police
cars.
The Chatham
Light Liquors store on the left had a new sign: Grey Lady Liquors, and on the
Chatham Perk coffee shop on the right there is a sign that read “Lighthouse
Perk.”
With those
modifications to the Northport Plaza parking lot, a section of Chatham was
transformed into a location on the island of Nantucket for the filming of
Netflix's new six-part series of "The Perfect Couple."
Why Chatham?
Sean
Gibbons, a location production assistant for the series, said, generally, that
filming in Chatham — rather than filming the whole show in Nantucket with its
ferry requirements and other transportation limitations — was a matter of
convenience, and it gave the production company the ability to closely
approximate Nantucket.
More about
'The Perfect Couple'
The mystery
brings viewers into the lives of a rich and famous Nantucket couple preparing
for the wedding of their son. Nicole Kidman stars as Greer Garrison Winbury,
mystery writer and mother of the groom, Thomas Winbury (Billy Howle). Liev
Schreiber is Greer’s husband, Tag. Bride Amelia Sacks is played by Eve Hewson
and Dakota Fanning is sister-in-law Abby Winbury.
Hilderbrand’s
novel shot to the top of The New York Times bestseller list weeks after its
release in 2018. With 28 romance novels to her name, Hildenbrand is known as
the “queen of beach reads,” and her website proves it. Book covers showcase
sailboats, waves and water, couples in sunlight and under beach umbrellas.
Books are grouped into summer, winter and paradise sections. This novel is her
first mystery involving a death, according to Super Summary.
Friday 6 September 2024
Wrist Watches of WWII - Horology In Combat / The 'Dirty Dozen,'
In-Depth The
'Dirty Dozen,' An Incredible Collection Of 12 (Mostly) Inexpensive Military
Watches
The first
non-civilian wristwatches ever used by British forces, they are some of the
most sought after military timepieces today.
Arthur
Touchot
July 25,
2016
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/dirty-dozen-twelve-military-watches
The Dirty
Dozen is the name of a movie from the 1960s, depicting the misadventures of 12
fictional soldiers during the Second World War. It is also, in watch collecting
circles, the name given to a group of 12 watches worn by those who actually
fought in it – specifically, British soldiers. They were commissioned by the
British Ministry of Defense (MoD) during World War II, and while they may not
be as highly rated as other military watches when they are presented
individually, as a set, they become some of the most collectible – specifically
(but not exclusively), by British collectors.
The British
military had always been equipped with the most contemporary timekeepers of
their era, from the marine chronometers of Harrison, John Arnold, and other
horological pioneers, which gave the Royal Navy the essential ability to
reliably determine longitude at sea, to "unbreakable glass"
wristwatches advertised by Smiths watches during the First World War. But, when
Great Britain declared war on Germany in 1939, few local watch companies could
compete with Switzerland’s greater production capabilities, and those still in
the business of making components were asked to focus their efforts on building
military parts for the Air Force and the Navy.
Switzerland
would export large quantities of watches and pocket watches during WWII, to
both the Allied Forces and the Germans, but these were civilian market orders
which pre-dated the war. The MoD thought these were not suitable to the needs
of British soldiers, and decided to place an order for custom-built
wristwatches. These needed to be accurate, reliable and durable, which in
watchmaking terms meant they had to be regulated to chronometer standards, and
also be waterproof and shockproof.
The watches
also had to have a black dial, Arabic numerals, luminous hour and minute hands,
luminous hour markers, a railroad minute track, a shatterproof crystal, and a
stainless-steel case. Powering them would be 15-jewel movements, measuring
between 11.75 and 13 lignes.
Twelve
companies would fulfill this brief: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana,
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex.
Each
manufacturer delivered as many watches as their production capabilities would
allow. Though official numbers have not been released by the MoD, we believe
the largest companies were able to take orders of up to 25,000, while smaller
manufacturers produced around 5,000 pieces – only IWC, JLC, and Omega kept a
strict record of their order: respectively 6,000, 10,000, and 25,000. Collectively, they would export
around 150,000 wristwatches to Britain during the second half of 1945,
classified for "General Service" but issued to special units,
including radio operators, and artillery staff members.
The Dirty
Dozen are easily identifiable by the engraving on the back. The three Ws, which
stand for for Watch, Wrist, Waterproof, identify the watches as government
property and indicate the type of good in order to distinguish them from
weaponry. Other defining features include Broad Arrow heads, on the dial, inner
case, and at the back, and two more lines of engravings at the back: a military
serial number – a capital letter followed by up to five digits – above a
second, standard civil serial number - some watches have the civil one on the
inner case. (The use of the Broad Arrow for government goods goes all the way
back to Sir Philip Sidney, Joint Master of the Ordnance in 1585, whose family
used the Broad Arrow in its coat of arms.)
Today,
hundreds if not thousands of collectors own military watches commissioned by
the MoD. But very few collectors – some suggest less than 20 in the world – own
a complete set of “The Dirty Dozen” in original condition. Why? Because, even
though so many were made and most can be found relatively easily, others like
the Grana pose a much great challenge.
Not because
it looks any different, or any better than the other eleven – it doesn’t. In
fact, collectors typically point to other watches when you ask them which one
they find most attractive. As ever when rating watches based on looks alone, no
one seems to agree.
However,
most point to the Longines as their favorite. Its contemporary size (38 mm) and
the stepped case make it one of the most interesting. Others swear by IWC’s
version of the W.W.W, also known as the Mark X, which has inspired its own
dedicated following, and spawned a line of successors which continues to grow
to this day – this year’s Mark XVIII being the latest.
But of the
Dozen, none is more desirable than the Grana, simply because it is by far the
most difficult to find. According to Konrad Knirim’s book British Military
Timepieces, less than 5,000, and perhaps even only 1,000, were made for the
MoD, making it the rarest of the lot.
Considering
the scarcity and history behind that watch, it’s perhaps surprising to learn
that it’s still within the realm of the affordable. When they come up, as one
did recently during the Watches of Knightsbridge July auction, they typically
have a minimum asking price around $7,000. That's seven times what collectors
pay for the most common W.W.W, but far, far less than six-figure Milsubs.
Then there
are the other eleven. Funding an entire collection requires deep pockets, and
collecting the Dirty Dozen – especially if you want them in original condition
– is not without its pitfalls. Due to the extreme conditions they were
subjected to, many of them were repaired and restored at some point during
their lifetime. And that meant being sent back to the Corps of Royal Electrical
& Mechanical Engineers (R.E.M.E), which dealt with all mechanical equipment
in need of maintenance or repair, including watches worn by military personnel.
Of course,
the Corps had little interest in preserving the originality of the watches that
came back. Their primary concern was to get them back in the field as quickly
as possible, and they found it much more practical and time efficient to
restore watches using MoD replacement parts of lower quality and in some cases,
with parts from other models. Mistakes were made, especially when changing case
backs. And then there's what happened after the war. In the 1960s, dials
containing radium and promethium were replaced by non-radioactive dials (the
Longines and the IWC in the Watches of Knightsbridge are both examples of this
practice).
Because of
this, collectors should tread carefully when acquiring these watches online or
through auctions, if the originality of the piece is their primary concern.
Besides the
Grana, the most elusive W.W.Ws are those which returned, albeit briefly, to MoD
at the end of the war in Europe. Those that could be saved, or did not need
saving, were sold to other Allied forces still engaged on other fronts, such as
the Pakistani Military, the Dutch Military and the Indonesian military. These
have a fourth line of engraving, identifying the watches’ new owners.
Final
Thoughts
There are
about as many reasons to collect watches, as there are watch collectors in this
world. For some, they are way to connect with an important part of our history.
For others, the motivation comes from the thrill of finding a rare piece. The
Dirty Dozen satisfies them both.
And then
there are those who seek watches of great and undeniable beauty. By their
nature, military watches offer little to that type of collector, though many
find the honesty of their design incredibly satisfying in itself.
Finally,
there’s the straightforward challenge of collecting The Dozen. Twelve. It’s a
number that sounds dangerously attainable, especially when you consider the
prices of the most common models, and large enough to cement the credibility of
the collection by size alone. But it's much, much harder than it sounds.
Thursday 5 September 2024
Ancient Roman Arch of Constantine damaged after violent storm | ABS-CBN ...
Constantine
Arch in Rome damaged by lightning during violent storm
Residents
tell of ‘apocalyptic scenes’ after more than 60mm of rainfall falls on Italian
capital in less than an hour
Lorenzo
Tondo in Palermo
Wed 4 Sep
2024 08.31 EDT
Lightning
has struck the Constantine Arch near the Colosseum in Rome during a violent
thunderstorm, breaking off fragments from the ancient structure, officials have
said.
The
fragments were immediately gathered and secured by workers at the Colosseum
Archeological Park, authorities in the Italian capital said. The extent of the
damage, which occurred on Tuesday, was being evaluated.
“The
recovery work by technicians was timely. Our workers arrived immediately after
the lightning strike. All of the fragments were recovered and secured,” the
park said in a statement.
Rome was hit
by a sudden and powerful storm that dumped more than 60mm of rain in less than
an hour, equivalent to a month’s rainfall in autumn. The city’s mayor, Roberto
Gualtieri, described it as a “downburst”.
A storm with
powerful downward winds was also reported off Sicily on 19 August, when the
luxury yacht Bayesian sank, killing the British tech magnate Mike Lynch and six
others.
After
Tuesday’s rains, Sabrina Alfonsi, Rome’s councillor with responsibility for the
environment, said: “The power of the storm was sudden and was not predicted by
any weather bulletin.”
Residents
have described “apocalyptic scenes”, with flooded subways, squares and streets.
A part of the scaffolding of a grandstand inside the Circus Maximus also
collapsed.
Meteorologists
say record temperatures in the Mediterranean Sea have contributed to the freak
storms that have hit Italy this summer. Sea temperature have reached 30C, three
degrees higher than average, during two months of consecutive heatwaves.
Extreme
rainfall is more common and more intense because of human-caused climate
breakdown since warmer air can hold more water vapour.
Last week,
during another violent storm, lightning struck a building in the Castelverde
area of Rome, causing a fire.
In 2023,
there were 378 extreme climate events in Italy, an increase of 22% on 2022,
according to a report by the environmental agency Legambiente, published last
December, with experts predicting such events will become more frequent and
more intense.
Wednesday 4 September 2024
The Pilot Watch That Helped Save The World - 1 Year With My Greatest Ome...
Technical
Data
Reference
CK 2444
International
collection
1945
Case
material
Stainless
steel
Vintage
watch watchcase type
Screw‑in
Water
resistance
3 bar (30
metres / 100 feet)
Movement
Movement
type
Manual
winding (mechanical)
Caliber
number
30 T2 RS
Tuesday 3 September 2024
The remake of the "Railroad Model" of LEE
Fit for
purpose and made to last, this season's Lee 101 workwear jacket pays homage to
simpler times and sturdy styles we made for farmers, miners, railroad workers,
mechanics, and laborers back in the day. Fashioned after the #91-J or the
"Railroad Model" of 1925, this contemporary rendition of the loco
jacket comes with all the distinctive details that have made it a wardrobe
staple for so many years. It comes with traditional Lee 101 workwear labels and
brass buttons for a touch of authenticity as well as plenty of pocket space for
all your essentials
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Monday 2 September 2024
Sunday 1 September 2024
Eton to raise fees to £63,000 in response to VAT change
Eton to
raise fees to £63,000 in response to VAT change
Other
private schools say they will absorb some of the cost of the removal of VAT
exemption
Tobi Thomas
Fri 30 Aug
2024 17.40 BST
https://www.theguardian.com/education/article/2024/aug/30/eton-fees-increase-vat-private-schools
Eton college
has sent a letter to parents saying it will raise its fees by a fifth in
response to the government’s removal of the VAT exemption on private schools.
The annual fees will increase from £52,749 to about £63,000.
In the
letter, the school said: “The provost and fellows regret that the government
has chosen to tax education in this way.
“Furthermore,
we are disappointed that the introduction of VAT will take place partway
through an academic year and at short notice. We recognise the concern that
will be felt by many parents following this announcement.”
From January
the government will remove the VAT exemption and business rates relief for
private schools, in order to generate funding for 6,500 new teachers in state
schools.
Currently,
independent schools do not have to charge 20% VAT on their fees because there
is an exemption for the supply of education.
The largest
private girls’ school trust has also announced that it will raise its fees by
12% from the new year over the government’s VAT plans.
The Girls’
Day School Trust (GDST), which represents 23 private schools in England
including Wimbledon high school, Blackheath high school and Shrewsbury high
school, said it would absorb the remaining 8%.
A 12%
increase in the average national annual fees for a day school of £18,064 would
bring them to £20,232.
In a letter
to parents this week, the GDST said: “Since the government’s announcement at
the end of July, we have worked at pace to deliver on our commitment to reduce
appreciably the overall financial impact of these tax changes on your fees.
“Following a
detailed review of our costs and approval from trustees, we are now in a
position to confirm that fees, inclusive of VAT, will rise by 12% from January
2025.
“We have
managed to mitigate the full financial impact of 20% VAT and the removal of
business rates relief by using the opportunities that our size and scale
provide, and by passing on any benefit we may receive should we be able to
reclaim VAT on other aspects of our running costs.
The largest
proportion of our outgoings is investment in our staff, which we will not
compromise on in our delivery of the academic, co-curricular and pastoral
excellence you expect from our schools. We appreciate the financial pressures
that will be felt by many of our families.”
The
government has been contacted for comment.
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