Friday, 2 January 2015

JERMYN STREET

Jermyn Street is a one-way street in the St James's area of the City of Westminster in London, to the south of, parallel, and adjacent to Piccadilly.
 It is widely known as a place where the shops are almost exclusively aimed at the gentlemen's clothing market and it is famous for its resident shirtmakers such as Turnbull & Asser, Thomas Pink, Harvie & Hudson and T. M. Lewin. Gentlemen's outfitters Hackett and DAKS are also located on Jermyn Street, as well as shoe- and boot-makers John Lobb and Foster & Son.
 A number of other businesses occupy premises on the street, such as the men's luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill, who first took a premises on the corner of Jermyn Street and Duke street in 1907; barbers Geo.F. Trumper, and Taylor of Old Bond Street; cigar shop Davidoff; as well as Britain's oldest cheese shop, Paxton & Whitfield, trading since 1797.
Jermyn Street é uma das ruas mais agradáveis de Londres . Paralela e adjacente a Picadilly, pela qual é ligada através das Picadilly Arcades, inesquecível "passage-galerie", só comparável às Burlington Arcades também muito próximas.
Esta é a rua para as camisarias, e a sua fama para a "Bespoke shirts" também só é comparável àquilo que Savile Row é para a "Bespoke Tayloring".
No entanto devido à variedade e à acessibilidade dos seus estabelecimentos e montras, esta é uma rua menos obcecada temáticamente e muito menos monótona que Savile Row.
Visitem vários estabelecimentos através dos exemplos que vos ofereço neste "post"

PICADILLY ARCADES

PICADILLY ARCADE O verdadeiro Centro Comercial.




FORTNUM & MASON

FORTNUM & MASON, Top General "Gourmet" Store for British Food Main Entrance in Picadilly. Visitar aqui : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4R028S2ydk


HILDITCH & KEY
HILDITCH & KEY , 37 Jermyn Street Traditional Superior Craftmanship for all the Gentleman's apparel

HILDITCH & KEY

Hackett
With a thriving small business in Portobello, Jeremy Hackett and Ashley Lloyd-Jennings make a big step up and open their first shop under the name “Hackett” at the wrong end (as their bank manager observed) of the New Kings Road in Parson’s Green, London. Still selling fine quality second-hand traditional British clothing and accessories, discovered in house clearances and numerous antique markets, Hackett soon gains cult status aided by interest in “Young Fogeydom” and the “Sloane Ranger handbook”.



 T. M. Lewin 
T. M. Lewin (Thomas Mayes Lewin) is a gentleman's shirt retailer and was formerly a UK manufacturer. It was founded in 1898 when Thomas Mayes Lewin opened his first shop in Jermyn Street, St James's, London.
T. M. Lewin & Sons traded through both World Wars and it was during this period that the company became a provider of Club Colours, becoming a supplier to the RAF, the British Army, the School tie and the sporting community. In 1979 T. M. Lewin & Sons was acquired by the McKenna family and in 1980 Geoff Quinn, the current managing director, joined the company from Turnbull & Asser.


TRICKER'S, 67 Jermyn Street Bespoke Hand Made and Bench Made English Footwear
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TRICKER'S Interior

TRICKER'S shoe samples


CROCKETT & JONES

CROCKETT & JONES,69 Jermyn Street, famous shoemaker




CROCKETT & JONES shop front
FOSTER & SONS


FOSTER & SONS, 83 Jermyn Street, Bespoke shoes, cases and luggage since 1840




FOSTER & SONS INTERIOR


FLORIS, 89 Jermyn Street, Perfumes, bath, essences,toilet waters and soap since 1730






Floris shop front in the XIX century

FLORIS shop front


Taylor of Old Bond Street 
 Jeremiah Taylor first founded Taylor of Old Bond Street on September the 1st, 1854. Jeremiah opened his salon in London's fashionable Bond Street and gained a reputation in British Society for his botanical extracts. The Taylor tradition continued through the next generation with Sidney who opened our now famous flagship store in Jermyn Street, London.
The 'Taylor' brand epitomizes classic British style and understated elegance, reliability and quality. Our products are manufactured and designed to meet the highest standards and are made out of natural ingredients where appropriate. We strive on providing both exceptional customer service and products

TURNBULL & ASSER

TURNBULL & ASSER 71-72 Jermyn street Visitar emhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZZ9H8hTF1E



TURNBULL & ASSER interior
TURNBULL & ASSER

HARVIE & HUDSON


HARVIE & HUDSON

HARVIE AND HUDSON,77 Jermyn street British Shirtmakers and ties specialists



HARVIE & HUDSON


CAVENDISH HOTEL 81 Jermyn Street http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWYzHoPkfrY













22 JERMYN STREET HOTEL


22 Jermyn Street Hotel de Charme

22 Jermyn Street HOTEL DE CHARME under the same family ownership since 1915 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93vSaqINvJw

BATES




BATES 21a Jermyn Street , Makers of stylish Hats


GEO F TRUMPER

GEO F TRUMPER 20 Jermyn Street Barber to Crown Heads and the Aristocracy since1875


Paxton & Whitfield
Paxton & Whitfield were founded in 1797 but have roots going back to a market store in Aldwych in 1742. Originally located at 19 Jermyn Street, they moved to their current location in 1894.

Paxton & Whitfield hold two royal warrants, one from the Prince of Wales in 1997 and one from Queen Elizabeth II in 2001. The relationship with the Royal Warrant Holders Association goes back to Queen Victoria in 1850.
ROWLEY'S

ROWLEY'S Restaurant 113 Jremyn Sstreet

ROWLEY'S


ROWLEY'S

WILTON'S Restaurant


WILTONS RESTAURANT, 55 Jermyn Street, noted since 1742 for the finest oysters, fish and game

Thursday, 1 January 2015

The Mystery of Princess Louise: Queen Victoria's Rebellious Daughter by Lucinda Hawksley



“The secrets of Queen Victoria’s sixth child, Princess Louise, may be destined to remain hidden forever. What was so dangerous about this artistic, tempestuous royal that her life has been documented more by rumour and gossip than hard facts? I first came across Princess Louise’s name when researching my biographies of Lizzie Siddal and Kate Perugini, I wondered who this art-loving princess really was. When I started to investigate, often thwarted by inexplicable secrecy, I discovered a fascinating woman, modern before her time, whose story has been shielded for years from public view.
Louise was a sculptor and painter, friend to the Pre-Raphaelites and a keen member of the Aesthetic movement. The most feisty of the Victorian princesses, she kicked against her mother’s controlling nature and remained fiercely loyal to her brothers – especially the sickly Leopold and the much-maligned Bertie. She sought out other unconventional women, including Josephine Butler, Elizabeth Garrett Anderson and George Eliot, and campaigned for education and health reform and for the rights of women. She battled with her indomitable mother for permission to practice the ‘masculine’ art of sculpture and go to art college – and in doing so became the first British princess to attend a public school.
The rumours of Louise’s colourful love life persist even today, with hints of love affairs dating as far back as her teenage years, and notable scandals included an illegitimate baby with her brother’s tutor and rumoured romantic entanglements with her married sculpting tutor Joseph Edgar Boehm and her sister Princess Beatrice’s handsome husband, Liko. True to rebellious form, she refused all royal suitors and became the first member of the royal family to marry a commoner since the sixteenth century. “Spirited and lively, The Mystery of Princess Louise is richly packed with arguments, intrigues, scandals and secrets, and is a vivid portrait of a princess desperate to escape her inheritance.”



The Mystery of Princess Louise: Queen Victoria's Rebellious Daughter by Lucinda Hawksley – review
This life of a spirited princess who thrived despite her upbringing is both revealing and enthralling
Rachel Cooke

Princess Louise was the sixth child of Queen Victoria, a woman who famously loathed babies, and from her very first wail, Her Majesty was apt to see her as odd and difficult. When she was feeling generous, she would attribute her daughter's determined, sparky personality to the fact that she had come into the world in 1848, the year of revolution: "She was born in the most eventful times & ought to be something peculiar in consequence." When she was not feeling generous, which was most of the time, she would insist that "Loosy" was backward: "God bless the dear child – who is so affectionate and has so many difficulties to contend with," she wrote to Louise's older sister Vicky in 1864. "I hope and trust she will get over them… and still become a most useful member of the human family."

Even by the mendacious, self-deceiving standards of Victoria, this was some lie. Not only was Louise more intelligent than the majority of her eight siblings, she was also, in spite of her loopy upbringing, emotionally adept, and though this would later cause her some pain when it came to matters of the heart, it made her popular with the public, even as the rumours swirled.

It's these whispers that make Lucinda Hawksley's new biography such an intriguing prospect. In old age, Louise was just another of the batty Victorian relatives (copyright: the Duke of Windsor) who rattled around the great royal retirement home that was Kensington Palace. But as a young woman, her life was complicated and modern. Did the teenage Louise have a baby by Walter Stirling, the devoted tutor of her haemophiliac brother, Leopold? Did she enjoy a long love affair with Sir Joseph Boehm, the Queen's sculptor in ordinary, a romance that only ended when he died as they made love in his London studio shortly before Christmas 1890? And was her husband, the Marquess of Lorne (later 9th Duke of Argyll), whom she married at the insistence of her mother in 1871, a homosexual whose night prowls she tried to prevent by bricking up the windows of her apartment?

Hawksley has answers to all these questions. In essence: yes, yes and yes. But her assertions are based on instinct, contemporary gossip and the matching up of dates, times and places rather than revelatory new documents. The princess's files at the royal archives remain closed, while at Inveraray Castle, the seat of the Argylls, the family papers are strictly off-limits. Hawksley doesn't waste precious time on the various ways she was thwarted, but the reader will consider this bizarre. Louise died in 1939; she had no legitimate children; the boy she purportedly gave up for adoption died in 1907. Why shouldn't the truth come out? It's not as if she murdered anyone.

What she did murder was the idea of what a princess should be. Louise was a practical girl; in the Swiss Cottage built for the children at Osborne House on the Isle of Wight, she learned to cook, a skill she practised, to the amazement of her staff, for the rest of her life. She wove a carpet for her beloved brother, Bertie (later Edward VII). But art was her first love and once she'd persuaded her mother that she might have her own studio – no mean feat, given that the widowed Victoria wanted her daughters to breathe the same miserable air as her 24 hours a day – there was no holding her back. She studied hard, and became a sculptor; wanting to be taken seriously, she insisted on being paid for her work. Was she any good? Opinions vary, but the magnificently chilly statue of Victoria she made to mark the golden jubilee, and which still stands outside Kensington Palace, pulls off the trick of flattering its subject even as it suggests the iceberg that stood in for the Queen's heart.

Art and life, for Louise, were intimately connected. Her friends and associates included Rossetti, Millais, Whistler and, more controversially, George Eliot (who was living in sin). Her clothes were fashionable, her jewellery sometimes homemade. A supporter of suffrage for women, she was in touch with both Josephine Butler and Elizabeth Garrett. No wonder, then, that she enjoyed her share of love affairs. No wonder, too, that she refused to be married off by her increasingly panicky mother to a European royal; exile was not for her. Lorne, offered as an alternative, was not precisely a catch. He washed rarely, his clothes were eccentric, he was convinced he had second sight, and he refused to let his wife use his billiard table. But she accepted him as the least bad option and went with him to Canada when he was appointed its governor – even if she didn't stay long. The marriage was not happy. But it was convenient. They could live apart, together.

Hawksley puts her facts in the service of her hunches with aplomb. I wasn't entirely convinced by her thesis about Louise's illegitimate son. It's hard to believe that the tyrannical, outwardly prudish Victoria knew of her daughter's pregnancy; if she had, would she really have been so happy to holiday with her so soon after the child was supposedly born? But I bought everything else, and the book is satisfyingly replete with eye-popping stories of life at the various palaces, even if they're not all new. Victoria, as usual, comes out of it exceedingly badly, something that makes Louise's evident sanity all the more impressive.

It's odd that while Hawksley tells us that Louise worried about her niece Alexandra and her obsession with a monk called Rasputin, she fails to mention the murder of the Romanovs. But I noticed the omission only when I'd put the book down. I was, I'm afraid, far too caught up with this improbable princess, a beautiful, charming woman who loved to bicycle and to smoke, who was always happy to share her recipe for oyster paté and who holidayed, at the end of her life, in Sidmouth, where she enjoyed the table d'hote at the exclusive Fortfield hotel.