Friday, 11 June 2021

Lilibet Diana', 'constructed' name. A curse or a blessing ?

 


Lilibet Diana – the name may turn out to be more of a curse than a blessing

 

By giving their daughter such a name, Harry and Meghan have ensured there will be heightened interest in her as she grows up

 

Sean O'Grady

@_seanogrady

https://www.independent.co.uk/voices/lilibet-diana-harry-meghan-baby-b1860908.html

 

What’s in a name? Quite a lot, if you’re royal. There’s always plenty of sensitivity and “meaning” in the chosen names of offspring – nods to history and politics as much as family affection, and the usual soppy stuff about something sounding nice or, less often, being trendy.

 

Harry and Meghan, who are in the celeb fame game properly now (for good or ill), have layered another consideration onto the usual ones in naming their daughter. Little Lilibet Diana Mountbatten-Windsor is certainly charming and her name seems well chosen, both on historical and sentimental grounds, with her famous gran and great gran memorialised. However, her name will always remind people who she is. Less trouble booking a table at a fashionable restaurant, getting a ticket for the must-see musical, or – you never know – a job.

 

The downside, of course, as with all celeb stuff, is that giving her such a name will merely heighten interest in her as she grows up; and, though it seems unkind to remark on it now, will inevitably attract the kind of media intrusion with which Lilibet Diana’s wider family are only too familiar. Her name may turn out to be more of a curse than a blessing, if the poignant experience of the past is anything to go by. The papers will be doubly interested in who she resembles as she grows up; whether she inherits Diana’s sense of style or the Queen’s sense of duty; and, of course, who she’ll be dating.

 

The public appetite for the habits and doings of even the most minor member of the royal family is astonishing, and probably unprecedented. It does leave some of us who are less obsessed with the Windsors a bit bewildered, however – something best satirised in a Viz comic quiz titled: “Which Kent Are You?”

 

We’ve become so old-fashioned about venerating our royal traditions – abetted by a government intent on weaponising them in our culture wars – that I’m only surprised Boris Johnson hasn’t reinstated the convention that the home secretary attend a royal birth to ensure no imposter is substituted for a genuine royal child. It would have meant Priti Patel flying to California to observe Meghan and Harry in the maternity suite, which would have entertained all concerned. Patel might have taken the opportunity to give Lilibet Diana a special, points-based UK visa, seeing as she would qualify under “semi-estranged royal personality”, a category of skilled worker for which post-Brexit Britain is of course crying out.

 

You might argue, for what it’s worth, that “Lilibet” is anyway a confected name – which is true, but it’s not like they’ve called her “Chardonnay” or “Renault Clio” or something. It seems to have grown out of the way the Queen, as baby Princess Elizabeth of York, was unable to quite pronounce her name, and so “Lilibet” caught on as a family sobriquet. It wasn’t on her birth certificate, or how she was known publicly, but the same might be said of Prince Henry of Wales, who, of course, has been universally referred to as Harry since his little red head popped out at the Lindo Wing in 1984. Once upon a time, the gin-soaked super-snob Princess Margaret was the sweet Princess Margaret Rose of York, until somewhere along the line the rose wilted in its acidic soil.

 

Lilibet is charming enough, and might itself be contracted to Lili, or she might prefer Diana, or “Diana the Second”, as she’d no doubt be dubbed by the media if she ever dared to emulate her paternal granny’s love of fashion. I happen to think it’s a shame that Doria Loyce and Jeanette, of the maternal line, didn’t get a look-in, but it’s none of my business.

 

Maybe, one day, the royal family will be enlightened enough to see what a tremendous asset they have in the American branch of the family, and how much Harry, Meghan, Archie and Lilibet – a new Fab Four – can contribute to the work and duties of a modernised British monarchy. Society has changed so much in recent decades that the Windsors have found it difficult to keep up, and they now find themselves being seen as symbols not so much of the nation and Commonwealth as a whole, but of tradition and resistance to “woke” values – hence the insane decision by the government to press on with a new £200m royal yacht, the main point of which is to wind up the left of the Labour Party and get patriotic voters in the red wall to vote Tory. There are even signs that William and Kate are being lined up, in effect, to lead the campaign against Scottish independence. This politicisation will not end well.

The rift between Harry and Meghan and the rest of the family has been unhappy and in nobody’s interests. It’d be nice to think that as Archie and Lilibet Diana grow up, the divisions can be healed, and that the family might even move back to Britain, fulfilling the kind of role they proposed before they were pushed into exile by the media making their lives hellish. You’d doubt it, though.

 

Like her namesakes, Lilibet Diana has a challenging life ahead of her, so we should wish her well.

 

Lilibet Diana: the baby name that represents a royal rift – and audacious hope

 

By combining the names of the Queen and the Princess of Wales, Harry and Meghan have highlighted two very different approaches to the monarchy. But which will define the future?

 

Zoe Williams

@zoesqwilliams

Wed 9 Jun 2021 06.00 BST

https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2021/jun/09/lilibet-diana-baby-name-royal-rift-audacious-hope

 

The joyful delivery of a baby girl to Prince Harry and Meghan is lovely news. But it has been lost, ever so slightly, in the couple’s naming choice: Lilibet Diana Mountbatten-Windsor.

 

I don’t think they had any say in the surname, so let’s stick with the forenames. Lilibet is, of course, the Queen’s nickname; not, as you might suppose, a contraction of Elizabeth that only posh people use, but rather what she called herself when she was too young to pronounce her own name. Only George VI, the Queen Mother, Princess Margaret and Prince Philip used it. “Lilibet is my pride. Margaret is my joy,” the king was quoted as saying, evidently having not caught up with the parenting manual that says you are really supposed to keep the identity of your favourite child to yourself. When Prince Philip died, the nickname died with him.

 

So, was it sensitive or insensitive for Harry to revivify it so soon? This is the question that is occupying the royal watchers, along with: is this an olive branch to the family, a reminder that underneath all the feuding lie real, human relationships? Or is it a defiant statement: you can’t evict me from the family, because it is not a house, or even a collection of gigantic houses; it is a family. Or is it somehow a combination of the two – and is that even possible?

 

But what is a royal watcher, anyway? Their expertise is the weapons-grade fawning; the watching, any of us could do. What if they are asking the wrong questions? Because there are two parts to this name: yes, there is Lilibet, but there is also Diana. Plainly, the couple have chosen the two most different members of the family, each embodying a diametrically opposite culture, and named their daughter after both of them. It could be that they are trying out something quite inventive, a monarchical third way.

 

The Queen is synonymous with a powerful sense of duty. “If you look up the number of engagements she’s missed, over 70 years, it’s unbelievable. It’s three,” says Amy Jenkins, one of the writers on The Crown. Duty is an outcome rather than an input, but it is possible to infer character from it – rigidity, obedience, reticence, self-effacement, an absolute horror at showing emotion. “It’s that British thing, isn’t it? ‘I challenge you to feel something,’” Jenkins says. “That’s like British bullying. We do it properly and we don’t feel things.”

 

Diana, Princess of Wales, meanwhile, was emphatically not rule-bound; really, her only duty as the wife to the heir of the throne was to produce young and stay married, and she flamed out spectacularly on the second.

 

What was much more discomfiting within the royals and to the public, though, was that she wasn’t emotionless. Even before the Martin Bashir interview – and we will park for now the question of whether we need to torch the BBC, a 100-year-old institution of unmatched global importance, for an interview that is a more than 25 years old and most of us remember only for the eyeliner – you could see the feelings running riot all over her face, from the beseeching eyes to the wistfulness. There were glimpses of mirth, sorrow, boredom. Has any royal’s face ever been so damn legible?

 

It was never clear whether these feelings were genuine or part of a complicated PR long-game – but they certainly weren’t hidden. It caused a lot of rancour, since she accrued the world’s attention that way – after all, it is much more interesting to look at a person who is feeling a thing than someone who is not – and was cast within the family as an attention-seeker. Attention-seekers are annoying in any family, but they are poison to a family whose operating model is “we didn’t ask for any of this, we’re just doing our duty”.

 

But Diana also called attention to the fragility of the Queen’s way of doing things. “That reticence wouldn’t hold, and one of the reasons it wouldn’t hold was because people have feelings,” says Jenkins. “But the royal family don’t recognise that. Which means they make mistakes all the time, because they’re reckoning without being human.” Having Diana around, with those great pools of emotion she called eyes, was an unsettling reminder that people, even under all that pomp, might still act like people.

 

In the end, whatever a royal was thinking or feeling back then, their prospects for self-expression were heavily circumscribed, limited effectively to the charities they supported. The Queen’s list of patronages is exactly as you would expect, although you might raise an eyebrow at how much she likes rugby (union and league?). It is studiously uncontroversial; her interests centre on children, animals and august institutions.

 

Between the charity work and the tacit demands of her office – that she remain neutral in the face of every issue, like a BBC journalist without the questions – it is very hard to say what she actually cares about. Dogs and horses, certainly; she is passionate about the Commonwealth, although it is unclear what about the Commonwealth inspires her passion (the memories of dominion? The beaches? The many cuisines?). People project views and behaviours on to the Queen, sometimes strategically – recall the Sun claiming her as an ardent Brexiter – and sometimes just to fill the void. There is no record of the Queen having any political or intellectual agenda, Jenkins says. “In that sense, The Crown is a complete and utter fantasy. The idea that she’s subtly manipulating matters of state behind the scenes, that she’s this wise force of whatever … no.”

 

Diana, conversely, was not just overtly political, but also radical in her choice of causes. Her work with the Halo Trust, the anti-landmine charity, started in Angola in January 1997, only months before her death. It was a spur-of-the-moment decision to walk across the minefield – “very characteristic of her”, says the charity’s CEO, James Cowan. “She knew her personal capacity to make a difference was extraordinary.”

 

What sounds from this distance like an uncontroversial cause – who would oppose a ban on weapons that continue to kill children years after a conflict has ended? – was in fact the opposite. “The British at that time were pretty committed to keeping landmines as part of their military armour,” Cowan says. “She’d been called a loose cannon by a minister.”

 

The impact of that photo was more or less immediate: in the autumn of that year, the international mine ban treaty came into force and has been signed by hundreds of countries that previously would have opposed it, not least the UK. It is the kind of impact that an individual makes only as a maverick, a thorn in the establishment’s side. If Diana had been swimming with the current, she would have been one voice in many. So, did it make her a pioneer or a narcissist? Maybe all pioneers are narcissists.

 

Yet it was her work with HIV and Aids patients – which started in 1987 with the photo of her shaking hands, gloveless, with the patient Ivan Cohen and continued until her death – that flagged how truly unusual she was.

 

There is a semi-satirical Diana fandom from a left perspective. Alex, 26, who runs a Twitter account called Princess Diana Is in All of Us, says: “My journey is going from ironic Diana lover to genuinely having a spiritual connection with her.” For Alex (who is using his first name only because he works in activism and direct action), Diana’s HIV work was a jumping-off point. “As a gay man, I found what she did really quite moving,” he says of the Cohen photo. “When she held the hands of Aids patients, I genuinely believe she was doing a spectacle of direct action. She was trying to construct a dramatic image that would advance social change.

 

The Queen embodies the values of an age before her own. Diana stood for a complicated modernity

“She was conscious of the fact that she was conceptualised as a Christ-like angel, and she then goes out of her way to hold the hands of people who are considered to be disgusting and contaminated. I use ‘Christ-like’ intentionally. It was a direct reference to Christ cleaning the feet of leprosy patients.”

 

Alex says her landmine and HIV action “created an image that shakes the foundations of the discourse” and posed a direct challenge to the values associated with the royals as personified by the Queen – reticence and stoicism. Peter Hitchens has highlighted the difference between Winston Churchill’s funeral and Diana’s – ultimate restraint versus the “outpouring of grief”, a phrase that became the motto of Diana’s legacy. The Queen seems very much of Churchill’s vintage, yet plainly she is not. Nonetheless, she embodies the values of an age before her own. Her daughter-in-law, on the other hand, stood for a complicated modernity, self-involved but extremely public, the self as a brand to be strategically deployed.

 

In their everyday lives – how they parented, the formality of their bearing – Lilibet and Diana offer contrasts that are a little melancholy. There is a video of the Queen arriving home from a long trip abroad, in which an absolutely tiny Prince Charles approaches and shakes her hand; to modern eyes, at least, it conveys worlds of distance and loneliness. It is understood that she bucked the aristocratic norm of outsourcing motherhood by the time it came to Prince Andrew, and that he was her favourite, but it is not possible to point to real-world evidence of this. Plus, he still went to boarding school. In any case, it doesn’t seem to have turned out a more rounded human being.

 

Diana was what the psychologist John Bowlby might call a much more “attached” mother, but she was powerfully unhappy even by the time she was pregnant with Prince William, so there was never any sense that she was living the perfect-family dream. She rebelled against petty expectations – kicking off her shoes in the hair salon, wearing red cashmere maternity dresses – but she did not manage to find an alternative way of being royal that made the business any less draining.

 

In the end, it is impossible to adjudicate on whose way of being makes more sense. We cannot know what kind of royal would make the institution more durable, more bearable, more coherent. All you can say is that they were as different as they could have been, and that this schism has been the gift that keeps on giving, a pinball of conflict that pings between the rest of the family with perpetual energy.

 

The putative feud between William and Harry, if it is really as bad as people say, can be read as a rerun of this clash – cold against hot, doing one’s duty versus questing for fulfilment. The obvious solution is for Harry and Meghan to become Diana ultras in the US while William stays in Britain and channels the Queen, but that amounts to the rift lasting for ever.

 

Maybe the newest family member’s name is an audacious act of hope – what if someone came along who was a bit of both? Who was capable of putting herself second to her role without losing her identity? Who could harness her star power for good? She might be a bit like Daenerys Targaryen without the dragons. Or maybe she is just a baby – and that is fine, too.

Thursday, 10 June 2021

BROGUES


 

The brogue (derived from the Gaelic bróg (Irish), bròg (Scottish) "shoe") is a style of low-heeled shoe or boot traditionally characterised by multiple-piece, sturdy leather uppers with decorative perforations (or "broguing") and serration along the pieces' visible edges.

 

Brogues were traditionally considered to be outdoor or country footwear not otherwise appropriate for casual or business occasions, but brogues are now considered appropriate in most contexts.[4] Brogues are most commonly found in one of four toe cap styles (full or "wingtip", semi-, quarter and longwing) and four closure styles (Oxford, Derby, ghillie, and monk). Today, in addition to their typical form of sturdy leather shoes or boots, brogues may also take the form of business dress shoes, sneakers, high-heeled women's shoes, or any other shoe form that utilises or evokes the multi-piece construction and perforated, serrated piece edges characteristic of brogues.

 

Modern brogues trace their roots to a rudimentary shoe originating in Ireland and Scotland that was constructed using untanned hide. Modern brogues feature decorative perforations. These are often said to stem from the original Irish brogues as well, specifically from holes intended to allow water to drain from the shoes when the wearer crossed wet terrain such as a bog. However, contemporary descriptions of the original brogues do not mention such holes. The word "brogue" came into English in the late sixteenth century. It comes from the Gaelic bróg (Irish), bròg (Scottish) "shoe", from the Old Norse "brók" meaning "leg covering".The Scots word brogue is also used to denote a bradawl or boring tool as well as the action of piercing with such a tool.

 

The word "brogue" was first used to describe a form of outdoor, country walking shoe in the early twentieth century traditionally worn by men. At that time the brogue was not considered to be appropriate for other occasions, social or business. Over time perceptions have changed and brogues are now considered appropriate in most contexts, including business. Brogues continue to be most common as leather dress and casual shoes and boots, but can also be found in many other forms including canvas and leather sneakers and high-heeled women's shoes.

 

Styles

Brogues are most commonly found in one of four toe-cap styles (full or "wingtip" brogues, semi-brogues, quarter brogues and longwing brogues) and four closure styles (Oxford, Derby, ghillie and monk strap). Most commonly offered as a leather dress shoe, brogues may also come in the form of boots, canvas or leather sneakers or any other shoe type that includes or evokes the multi-piece construction and perforated, serrated edges characteristic of brogues.

 

Toe caps

Brogue styles are determined by the shape of the toe cap and include the commonly available full brogue (or "wingtip" in the United States), semi-brogue and quarter brogue styles, and may also be found in the less common longwing brogue style.

 



Full brogues (also known as wingtips) are characterised by a pointed toe cap with extensions (wings) that run along both sides of the toe, terminating near the ball of the foot. Viewed from the top, this toe cap style is "W" shaped and looks similar to a bird with extended wings, explaining the style name "wingtips" that is commonly used in the United States. The toe cap of a full brogue is both perforated and serrated along its edges and includes additional decorative perforations in the center of the toe cap. A shoe with a wingtip-style toecap but no perforations is known as an "austerity brogue", while a plain-toe shoe with wingtip-style perforations is a "blind brogue".

 

Spectator shoes (British English: Co-respondent shoes) are full brogue Oxfords constructed from two contrasting colours, typically having the toe and heel cap and sometimes the lace panels in a darker color than the main body of the shoe. Common color combinations include a white shoe body with either black or tan caps, but other colours can be used.

 


Ghillie brogues

The ghillie style of full brogue has no tongue, to facilitate drying, and long laces that wrap around the leg above the ankle and tie below the calf to facilitate keeping the tie clear of mud. Despite the functional aspects of their design, ghillie brogues are most commonly seen as a component of traditional, formal Scottish dress and are worn primarily for social occasions.

 


Semi-brogues (or half brogues)

Toe cap detail of a man's semi-brogue (or half brogue) dress shoe

Semi-brogues (also known as half brogues) are characterised by a toe cap with decorative perforations and serration along the cap's edge and includes additional decorative perforations in the center of the toe cap. The half brogue was first designed and produced by John Lobb Ltd. as an Oxford in 1937 in an effort to offer his customers a shoe more stylish than a plain oxford, yet not as bold as a full brogue.

 


Quarter brogues

Quarter brogues are characterised by a cap toe with decorative perforations and serrations along the cap's edge, however, unlike semi-brogues, quarter brogues have no decorative perforations in the center of the toe cap. Quarter brogues are more formal than semi brogues and full brogues; they are the most formal of dress shoes with brogueing, making them the ideal fit to pair with business attire (suits).

 


Longwing brogues

Longwing brogues (also known in the US as "English" brogues, and in the UK as "American" brogues)[citation needed] are Derby style shoes characterised by a pointed toe cap with wings that extend the full length of the shoe, meeting at a center seam at the heel. Longwing Derby brogues were most popular in the US during the 1970s, and although the popularity of this style has decreased, it remains available

Wednesday, 9 June 2021

Ghillie Brogues / VIDEO: How to Tie Ghillie Brogues





 In this "post" I will not deal with the English "oxford brogues", which can be divided into "Full brogue" and "half brogue" depending on the amount of shredded used in their ornamentation ... but yes, from your true ancestor... the Scottish "brogue ghillie" ...

Indeed these Scottish shoes which at present are only used in a social context, were the real country shoes of the "game-goers" and other country activities in the Scottish Highlands. The term "ghillie" associates the "boy" ('gille' in Scots Gaelic - lad-servant ) and the term 'brogue' to 'brog' (shoe).

The holes, now symbolized in decoration, actually existed and helped drain the water ... see the examples represented below the ancestors "brogues".

 

There are many different styles of Brogues available these days. The most famous of these of course is the Ghillie Brogue. The Ghillie Brogue differs slightly from other types of brogue as it has no tongue which allows the shoes to dry much more easily and also features long laces that are wrapped around the wearers ankle and tied just below the calf. The reason the laces are tied this high is to prevent them from becoming caked in mud and dirt like the laces for most other shoes. Although they have many functional design choices Ghillie Brogues are primarily worn at functional events such as Ceilidhs and Scottish weddings.









Tuesday, 8 June 2021

How Prince Andrew Helped a Secretive Bank Woo Sketchy Clients


Azerbaijan ties add to Prince Andrew’s woes

June 2, 20214 Min ReadJo Harper

https://emerging-europe.com/news/azerbaijan-ties-add-to-prince-andrews-woes/

Jo Harper

 

Wanted for questioning by the FBI over his links to the disgraced financier Jeffrey Epstein, dealings with Azerbaijan may in fact be the Achilles heel of the UK’s Prince Andrew.

 

British businessman David ‘Spotty’ Rowland is not Jeffrey Epstein. But he did share with the deceased and disgraced financier and convicted sex offender a friendship with Prince Andrew, the hapless second son of the Queen of England, currently wanted by the FBI for questioning into Epstein’s alleged paedophile activities.

 

When Andrew was facing the sack from his role as the UK’s special representative for international trade and investment because of the Epstein scandal, Rowland’s son, Jonathan, suggested their commercial activities continue “under the radar”. Andrew reportedly responded in an email: ‘I like your thinking,’ Bloomberg Businessweek reported.

 

Like Epstein, Rowland also came to the rescue of Andrew’s ex-wife, the Duchess of York, paying 40,000 UK pounds to help clear her debts.

 

Rowland and ex-Banque Havilland Chairman Graham Robeson also have ties to the UK Conservative party. Rowland was one of David Cameron’s main backers in the 2010 general election, giving over six million UK pounds. Robeson was honoured for his political work with a 2015 Order of the British Empire (OBE).

 

Rowland paid 40 million UK pounds a small private bank in Luxembourg, which he renamed Banque Havilland, in 2009 from the ruins of Iceland’s Kaupthing Bank. His plan seems to have been to use Andrew’s network of contacts to tap into emerging markets in Eastern Europe, the Middle East, and Asia.

 

“Andrew acted as an unofficial door opener for Rowland and his private bank in Luxembourg,” Bloomberg Businessweek reported, based on emails, internal documents, and previously unreported regulatory filings.

 

Andrew was able to live a lifestyle beyond the reach of his 280,000 UK pounds annual salary from the British taxpayer, while Rowland was able to squeeze through more doors.

 

Rowland then set up a venture called Inverness Asset Management domiciled in the British Virgin Islands, an offshore tax haven. Blackfish marketing documents from 2007 indicate Andrew owned 40% of Inverness, Bloomberg Businessweek reported. Inverness was wound down in January 2019.

 

Dodgy customers

Some of Banque Havilland’s clients were so toxic that in 2018 even Luxembourg’s regulator was alarmed and a criminal investigation was launched. It is still ongoing. The probe is looking at the bank’s relationship with the political elite of Azerbaijan, among other things.

 

Andrew was a frequent visitor to the oil-rich country, while he was the UK’s trade envoy and after, and met President Ilham Aliyev over a dozen times.

 

According to Bloomberg Businessweek, Rowland accompanied Andrew on a trip to Azerbaijan in 2008 and afterwards emailed a relative of Aliyev’s wife who ran the country’s largest company, Pasha Holding. In 2009, Pasha reportedly routed five million US dollars to an investment fund controlled by the Rowlands that had an account at Banque Havilland.

 

In 2014, Banque Havilland bought a Bahamas-based bank where Aliyev’s daughters had accounts. They subsequently used one of the accounts to lend money to two companies whose main role seemed to be making loans to the family of Mikhail Gutseriev, the largest shareholder of RussNeft, a Russian oil company, also with interests in Azerbaijan.

 

Andrew is currently facing potential new revelations stemming from the trial of Ghislaine Maxwell, Epstein’s erstwhile alleged accomplice, but it may be Azerbaijan that proves his Achilles heel.


Friday, 4 June 2021

Pantherella - Scott-Nichol Fine English Socks - Made in England since 1937


About Scott-Nichol

https://www.pantherella.com/eu/scott-nichol

 

Scott-Nichol’s ancestors have been associated with wool production for over six hundred years. This depth of heritage and textile expertise are the foundation of every Scott-Nichol sock.

 

 The company was originally founded in the 1930s by John Scott-Nichol and established in Factory Street, Shepshed, on the edge of the Charnwood Forest in Leicestershire, England.

 

 In 2006 the brand was acquired by the Hall family who have been involved with the manufacture of socks in Leicestershire since ‘Honest John’ Hall started making hosiery in 1882.

 

 Since 2006 all Scott-Nichol socks have been made in our family owned factory on Hallaton Street in Leicester, England, the home of the iconic Pantherella Fine English Sock brand.

 





 Scott-Nichol Socks

Scott-Nichol source outstanding natural fibres to create unique and distinctive hosiery. Each carefully hand finished collection of socks are renowned for their unrivalled comfort and durability in more ‘active’ situations, making them the perfect companion for country retreats and outdoor escapades.

 

 Scott-Nichol Wool socks are knitted from a blend of warm virgin wool taken from a sheep’s first shearing, with a touch of nylon for added fit and longevity.

 

 Scott-Nichol Soft Cotton socks are knitted from a blend of super-soft ringspun cotton, with a touch of nylon for added durability and a snug fit.

 


The history of UK sock manufacturer Pantherella

Kate Hills|

https://makeitbritish.co.uk/british-designer-interviews/uk-sock-manufacturer-pantherella/

 

We chat to Justin Hall, chief executive of UK sock manufacturer Pantherella about their long history, their Leicester factory and their exciting future

 

Pantherella are a world renowned brand manufacturing fine English socks and hosiery from their Leicester factory. Their original philosophy of ‘Provenance, Design & Quality’ still rings true today. Although their brand has grown hugely, they have insisted on keeping their production in Leicester, making them one of the last UK sock manufacturers. We asked Chief Executive, Justin Hall to talk us through the company’s extensive history and plans for the future.

 

Pantherella started off as Midland Hosiery Mills in 1937 before becoming Pantherella in 1945. What is the meaning behind the name Pantherella?

 

We have some original packaging for our men’s socks which is branded ‘Panther’ but ( for some reason, lost in the mists of time we’re afraid!) the company adopted the name, ‘Pantherella’ when it was registered in 1945.

 


Pantherella workers have always had specialist knowledge, skills and uncompromising attention to detail.

 

The brand moved from women’s hosiery in 1937 to men’s socks in 1945. You ceased production of women’s socks in 1952 but started making them again in 2005. Can you tell us a bit about the changes at the time that lead to these decisions?

 

The initial success of the men’s brand, in both UK stores, such as Harrods and Selfridges, and also internationally, dwarfed the women’s range and a decision was taken to stop production. In 2005 we started again due to demand from our stockists (and their customers) for a women’s version of our classic men’s ‘Waddington’ cashmere sock. Our ‘Tabitha’ cashmere socks remain one of our most popular styles.

 

Pantherella has remained in their Leicester factory since 1937 despite huge expansion of the brand. How has this been achievable?

 

Pantherella has always been based in Hallaton Street, Leicester, however in the very early 1960s we moved from a small site, to a much larger site opposite. In the subsequent 50+ years we have gradually expanded and added to this site, resulting in a very characterful building which is still adapting to our changing needs to this day.

 

Has Pantherella ever been tempted/pressured to move their manufacturing away from the UK?

 

No. British labour isn’t cheap, but the historical knowledge of this local Leicester trade is priceless. We don’t think that foreign factories would be able to match the Pantherella workers specialist knowledge, skills and uncompromising attention to detail, or cater for short, bespoke runs that make our ranges unique and appealing to our customers.

 

We recently visited the Tower Mill, where Fine English Cottons will be bringing cotton spinning back to the UK.  Would Pantherella consider producing a range in the future that is made from 100% UK spun cotton as well as being manufactured here in the UK?

 

A majority of Pantherella socks are knitted from very fine, high quality Egyptian extra-long staple mercerised and gassed cotton which we source from an Italian mill with an extensive colour palette. If we could match this level of quality and choice from a UK supplier then we would love to make a completely English sock.

 

What is next for Pantherella?

 

Online we can offer the widest collection of luxury socks made from the finest quality yarns in the world. Our website, www.pantherella.com is going from strength to strength in the UK with increasing month on month sales. We recently launched our US ecommerce site so we will be looking to grow our online customer base in the US and in time, have more country-specific ecommerce sites.

 

To find out more about Pantherella click here or to treat yourself to one of their products visit them at www.pantherella.com


Thursday, 3 June 2021

The Jaguar E-Type Story


The Jaguar E-Type, or the Jaguar XK-E for the North American market, is a British sports car that was manufactured by Jaguar Cars Ltd between 1961 and 1975. Its combination of beauty, high performance, and competitive pricing established the model as an icon of the motoring world. The E-Type's claimed 150 mph (241 km/h) top speed,[4] sub-7-second 0 to 60 mph (97 km/h) acceleration, unitary construction, disc brakes, rack-and-pinion steering, and independent front and rear suspension distinguished the car and spurred industry-wide changes. The E-Type was based on Jaguar's D-Type racing car, which had won the 24 Hours of Le Mans for three consecutive years beginning in 1955, and employed what was, for the early 1960s, a novel racing design principle, with a front subframe carrying the engine, front suspension and front bodywork bolted directly to the body tub. No ladder frame chassis, as was common at the time, was needed and as such the first cars weighed only 1315 kg (2900 lb).

 






On its release on 15 March 1961 Enzo Ferrari called it "the most beautiful car ever made". In 2004, Sports Car International magazine placed the E-Type at number one on their list of Top Sports Cars of the 1960s. In March 2008, the Jaguar E-Type ranked first in The Daily Telegraph online list of the world's "100 most beautiful cars" of all time. Outside automotive circles, the E-type has featured in the Diabolik comic series, Austin Powers films and the television series Mad Men.

 

The E-Type was introduced as a rear-wheel drive grand tourer in two-seater coupé form (FHC or Fixed Head Coupé) and as a two-seater convertible "roadster" (OTS or Open Two Seater). A "2+2" four-seater version of the coupé, with a lengthened wheelbase, was released in 1966.

 

Later model updates of the E-Type were officially designated "Series 2" and "Series 3", and over time the earlier cars have come to be referred to as "Series 1." As with other partly hand made cars of the time, changes were incremental and ongoing, which has led to confusion over exactly what a Series 1 car is. This is of more than academic interest, as Series 1 E-Types—and particularly Series 1 roadsters—often have values in excess of Series 2 and 3 models.

 

The Series 1 cars essentially fall into two categories: Those made between 1961 and 1964, which had 3.8-litre engines and,on all but very last cars, partial synchromesh transmissions, and those made between 1965–1967, which increased engine size and torque by around 10% to 4.2 litres, and also provided new reclining seats, an alternator in place of the dynamo, an electrical system switched to negative earth, a more reliable brake servo, and other modern amenities. Styling was unchanged.

 

As a result, the 4.2-litre Type 1 generally became the most valuable form of the car. However, as of the end of 2014, the most expensive regular production Jaguar E-Types sold at auction included a 4.2-litre Series 1 roadster, with matching numbers, original paint and interior, under 80,000 original miles, and a history of being in the original buyer's family for 45 years, for $467,000 in 2013, and a 3.8-litre 1961 "flat floor"[clarification needed] Series 1, for $528,000 in 2014. Special run racing lightweights go for far more still. For example, a 1963 E-type Lightweight Competition advertised as very original and with much patina (wearing the "factory installed interior and bodywork showing the patina of decades of use," although it was re-painted and has a non-matching numbers - albeit factory provided - engine), one of just twelve that were built, sold for $7,370,000 at the 2017 Scottsdale, Arizona auctions.

 

Being a British-made car of the 1960s, there are some rather rare sub-types of Series 1 E-Types, particularly at the beginning and end of the Series 1 production. For example, the first 500 Series 1 cars had flat floors and external bonnet latches. At the close of the Series 1 production run, there were a small number of cars produced that are identical in every respect to other Series 1 units (including triple SU carbs, button actuated starter, toggle switches, etc.), except that the headlight covers were removed for better illumination. It is not known exactly how many of these Series 1 cars (sometimes referred to as for convenience sake as "Series 1.25," but per Jaguar, Series 1) were produced, but given that 1,508 Series 1 roadsters were produced worldwide for 1967, combined with the fact that these examples were made in just the last several months of Series 1 production, means that these, like the flat floor examples that began the Series 1 production run, are the lowest volume Series 1 variant, save of course for the special lightweights.

 

Worldwide, including both left and right hand drive examples, a total of 7,828 3.8-litre Series 1 roadsters were built, with 6,749 of the later 4.2-litre Series 1 roadsters having been manufactured.

 

While the 1968 Series 1.5 cars maintained the essential design of the Series 1 models, US emission regulations saw its triple SU carburetors replaced there with twin Zenith-Stromberg units, resulting in a drop in claimed horsepower from 265 to 246 and torque from 283 to 263.

 

Of the "Series 1" cars, Jaguar manufactured some limited-edition variants, inspired by motor racing:

 

The "'Lightweight' E-Type" initiated and designed for competition was intended as a racing follow-up to the D-Type. Jaguar planned to produce 18 units but ultimately only a dozen were reportedly built. Of those, two have been converted to low drag form and two others are known to have been crashed and deemed to be beyond repair, although one has now been rebuilt. These are exceedingly rare and sought after by collectors. *The "Low Drag Coupé" was a one-off technical exercise which was ultimately sold to a Jaguar racing driver. It is presently believed to be part of the private collection of the current Viscount Cowdray. In 2014, Jaguar announced its intention to build the remaining six lightweights, at a cost of approximately £1 million each.

Safety and emissions regulations in the North American market resulted in Series 2 and 3 E-Types being fitted with a larger grille, wider wheel arches, and bigger bumpers. And they were also fitted with a bigger radiator and cooling system because the Series 1 were notorious for overheating

 

The New York City Museum of Modern Art recognised the significance of the E-Type's design by William Heynes, Jaguar design chief,in 1996 by adding a blue roadster to its permanent design collection, one of only six automobiles to receive the distinction.The MoMA XKE is a Series 1 roadster.