Tuesday, 18 February 2025
Lady Pamela Hicks / VIDEO:Interview with Lady Pamela Hicks Mountbatten - Edit 1
Saturday, 15 February 2025
Miles, Chet, Ralph, & Charlie tells the story of the Andover Shop, Edited by Constantine Valhouli
Miles,
Chet, Ralph, & Charlie tells the story of the Andover Shop, and how our
co-founder
Charlie
Davidson transformed a tiny store into an unlikely literary and cultural salon
that brought together musicians like Miles Davis, Chet Baker, and Bobby Short,
as well as writers like Ralph Ellison and Albert Murray. Yet the story was not
who he dressed, but why. This book explores the unexpected role that Charlie's
particular style of patrician clothing played in making people visible in the
years before full civil rights.
The book
is an "oral history" told through interviews with three of the
leading voices in American style writing: G. Bruce Boyer (a former editor at
Esquire and Town & Country), Alan Flusser (who dressed Gordon Gekko for the
Wall Street movie, and who has written several of the canonical style books),
and Richard Press (the former CEO of the iconic American menswear firm, J.
Press).
https://www.theandovershop.com/products/untitled-sep14_11-29
Author Interview: Constantine Valhouli
Posted on July 24, 2024 by Byron Tully
https://theoldmoneybook.com/2024/07/24/author-interview-constantine-valhouli/
Recently, I had a moment to sit down with
Constantine Valhouli, author of Miles, Chet, Ralph & Charlie, which details
the fascinating history of The Andover Shop in Boston.
If you were ever wondering how Old Money Style
clothes intersected with jazz, politics, and American history, read on…
And thanks again, Constantine.
BGT: Hi Constantine. Thank you for making the
time to sit with me today. I know you’re promoting Miles, Chet, Ralph, &
Charlie here in Europe as well as in the US, in addition to the other book(s)
you’re working on. So, time is precious.
CAV: Those clever fellows at CERN tell me that
time and space are infinite quantities, but my attorneys still bill by the hour
…
BGT: Ha! Okay, first, let’s address the title.
Who are the people you refer to?
CAV: Miles Davis, Chet Baker, Ralph Ellison … and
everyone thinks the eponymous Charlie is Charlie Parker but it’s the founder of
the Andover Shop, Charlie Davidson. One of main voices in the book, the tailor
Mor Sène, said that Miles, Chet, Ralph & Charlie was a brilliant title
because Miles Davis embodies east coast jazz while Chet Baker is west coast
jazz personified, and Charlie Davidson bridges the two. I nodded and said that
was exactly what I was thinking (but of course it wasn’t) and I’m happy to take
credit for that accidental insight after the fact.
BGT: And Charlie Davidson comes across in the
book as quite a character…
CAV: He was fascinating, complex, complicated,
generous, ornery, and volatile. And sometimes contradictory. If you asked two
people their opinions of him, you’d get such different answers that you’d
wonder if they were even discussing the same person. Which makes for great raw
material for a book.
BGT: Of course, The Andover Shop is a legendary
clothing establishment that defined what we call Old Money Style, or Ivy Style.
Can you give us a little background on the store—I wouldn’t call it a
boutique—to provide a some context?
CAV: The look was very much an insider’s thing
until it was democratized by the GI Bill and jazz, in roughly that order. Until
the GI Bill after the Second World War, there were fewer colleges and even less
financial aid. The students at these schools developed a distinctive look ––
navy blazers and tweed jackets; corduroy and grey flannel trousers (khaki
wouldn’t be introduced until after the war, but that’s another story). It was
very much a look of privilege. Each of the major colleges had a shop serving
the campus: J. Press at Yale and Princeton, The Andover Shop at Harvard, and so
on.
Alumni from J. Press went on to start many of the
defining clothing companies, and one of these was The Andover Shop. Each store
had something they did very well, something which reflected the founder’s
interests. For Charlie, it was jazz. He met Miles Davis and Chet Baker (as well
as other influential figures like the legendary jazz columnist and bon vivant
George Frazier) shortly after starting the shop. He began dressing them when
their sound was changing, and this called for a different look than the uniforms
of black tie or zoot suits. These musicians were playing on college campuses,
and saw how the members of their privileged audiences dressed. It was
fascinating to see how outsiders, in a time before civil rights, adapted the
look of consummate insiders.
BGT: So this is about music, a collision of
cultures, people who don’t ordinarily mix together getting to know one
another…but it’s still about clothing, right?
Clothing is central to the story of The Andover
Shop. Aspects of the story would be the same if it were a restaurant (a similar
focus on, literally, taste) or a music venue (I’m thinking of the ones founded
by impresario George Wein, which broke racial barriers by integrating
audiences). But Charlie’s kind of clothing is loaded with meaning: what we
aspire to, how we see ourselves, how we wish to be seen.
He understood the Boston Brahmin and how they saw
themselves, and sold clothing that appealed to that crowd and those in their
orbit. The details are very specific to New England. It’s Anglophile, but not
British, Italian-accented but not Italian. Over the years, I’ve visited similar
clothiers in places like London, Naples, and Stockholm, each reflects something
deeply local in its aspiration –– a nuance which I, as an outsider, am unable
to read. But for New England, Charlie understood how the traditions of Boston’s
aristocracy were codified into taste.
BGT: ‘Codified into taste’, that’s a phrase. But
this book is different from what readers might expect. It’s not a straight
nonfiction title detailing the names, dates, and events surrounding the
principal characters involved in The Andover Shop. You’ve compiled an ‘oral
history’. Why did you opt for that format in order to tell this story?
A: One of my favorite books is Nelson Aldrich’s
George, Being George, an oral history of his friend and Paris Review colleague
George Plimpton. Nelson and I ended up unexpectedly working together on The
Master of Eliot House, a book about a legendary Harvard figure named John
Finley. I mentioned to Nelson that I’d
gathered all these interviews for a book on Charlie Davidson, but didn’t want
to do a traditional narrative nonfiction approach. Almost everyone I spoke with
was a natural raconteur; Nelson suggested doing it as an oral history to
foreground these wonderful storytellers and preserve their distinct voices.
BGT: So the book’s a biography. It’s a tribute.
It’s about music. It’s about a changing America. And how The Andover Shop
contributed to and participated in all those. Was it difficult to maintain a
focus while putting the book together?
A: Heh. It’s difficult for me to maintain focus
in general. Especially before coffee. But Nina MacLaughlin of The Boston Globe
rather generously described the book as “kaleidoscopic,” which I think may be a
kind way of saying that I have the editorial focus of a ferret on amphetamines.
When I began, I had no idea where the book would
take me. Oral histories offer a parallel to documentary filmmaking, in that the
story emerges in the interviews and editing. The individuals in the book were
fascinating, and the deeper I got into the research, connections emerged among
these people. I tried to highlight the overlaps among the narrative threads,
and how Charlie and the shop were the nexus for many of these connections.
Miles Davis, sporting an oxford cloth button down
shirt in the studio.
BGT: Your contributors are a veritable pantheon
of men’s style icons—I wouldn’t call them ‘fashion’ icons, but men who’ve made
some tremendous contributions to the way we think about clothes and the way we
dress. How did their participation come about?
CAV: Bruce Boyer is a former editor at Town &
Country and Esquire, and has written several of the definitive books on
traditional men’s style. Alan Flusser is an author and clothier who may be best
known for dressing the characters in the Wall Street movie –– and in turn
influencing how actual financiers chose to dress. And Richard Press is the
former CEO of J. Press, and the grandson of that firm’s founder, so he has a
direct connection to how this look began and how it evolved in relation to a
changing America. I think this book may be the first time they’ve all appeared
in such depth in one volume.
Their participation? It was during the pandemic,
so we were all bored and I just reached out to mention the project, and what
followed was a wonderful, ongoing conversation.
BGT: Charlie Davidson spots a young Barack Obama
from a mile way—and a few years ahead of his time—proclaiming that the young
senator would eventually be president. How did owning The Andover Shop put
Charlie— and so many other players in your book—at the epicenter of politics?
The shop is in Boston, not Washington DC. What was going on there?
CAV: Malcolm Gladwell described Charlie as one of
the most connected people in the United States. It helped that the shop was
across the street from Harvard, and next to the “final clubs” on Mount Auburn
Street. The shop drew a cross-section of professors, students, and
distinguished guests who were all deeply immersed in their fields. It’s no
surprise that he’d know of Barack Obama long before the public did.
BGT: And for some reason, this same man and this
same store were neck-deep in cutting edge culture.
CAV: Towards the end of his life –– and he lived
past ninety –– Charlie was getting into rap music. But his first love was jazz,
which we now think of as serious, something to be studied. But at the time, it
was pop culture. Instead of Jazz at Lincoln Center imagine “Heavy Metal at
Lincoln Center” in fifty years, and you get a sense of the arc that jazz has
traveled from the cultural margins to a place in the American pantheon. (I
should add that the two Andover Shop figures were closely involved with Jazz at
Lincoln Center: social critic Albert Murray, and his protégé Quincy Jones.)
Al Murray and Ralph Ellison understood that jazz
was never just entertainment, it was always political. It reflected, and was
part of, the struggle for civil rights. Clothing was, too, which is why it
played such a central role in jazz. Clothing made status visible, and was a way
of claiming space publicly. After doing this book, I’m no longer surprised that
a clothier would find himself at a nexus of the cultural and political
spheres.
BGT:
Yankee patricians and jazz musicians, trying on sport coats in the same
shop. This just seems like a soap opera or a novel that no one would believe.
CAV: The marvelous Bruce Boyer described both
this book and The Master of Eliot House as “having a cast of characters that
would be improbable in a work of fiction.” I think back to Twain’s dictum that
“fiction is constrained by what’s plausible but reality only by what’s
possible.”
BGT: Was it just Charlie’s personality that held
it all together? Or was it just a particular time in history—and a particular
man and place—that might never come around again?
CAV: Yes. A number of people tell stories of
Charlie kicking people out of the store if they couldn’t handle being in a
racially integrated space. And it was his personal interests that drew these
people together in the first place. He loved jazz, literature, history, and
politics and had a rare opportunity to turn his shop into a salon where those
subjects were discussed on a daily basis by some of the leading minds. And then
he’d sell them a sweater or some socks.
I feel that there was always, will always be, a
Charlie of some sort. He’s almost an archetype. When I was in Copenhagen, there
was a museum exhibit about clothing of the royal court. I sent Charlie a note
saying that one of his collateral ancestors had probably put those together ––
and combined technical skill with the knowledge of the social dynamics of the
royal court. He was amused.
BGT: One of the chapters of your book bears the
title, “When Substance Had Style”. That really resonated with me, and left me a
little sad. Were there any points during the final review of the manuscript
that you felt a little depressed? Like we’d lost something we might not get
back?
CAV: Oh! That was a particularly melancholy
chapter, but I think it reflected the price that Charlie –– and all of us who
try to gather remarkable circles around ourselves –– must pay: the eventual
death of all these friends. The gradual tightening of that circle, and the
ever-present question of whether we’ve made some small difference in the lives
of the people around us.
The short answer to your question is an emphatic
yes. Those decades were certainly not a golden age for everyone, but there was
an elegance to them that seems impossibly distant now. The majority of people
aspire towards something very different, one which I find much less compelling.
BGT: I know you’re very private, but can you
share with us your own personal experience at The Andover Shop?
There was this one time involving the volleyball
team, a sloth that escaped from the Franklin Park Zoo, and an open bar, but my
lawyers have advised me not to discuss it until The Andover Shop’s insurance
company settles the claim. But I think the damage to their building has finally
been repaired, and there’s talk of putting up a historic plaque to mark the
memorable (if unfortunate) events.
BGT: Very diplomatic! And what’s next for you?
When is the next book going to be published?
The Master of Eliot House comes out, in limited
edition, in September. And in the meantime, I look forward to catching up on
sleep.
BGT: Very much looking forward to that. Rest a
little, and we’ll talk again soon.
Miles, Chet, Ralph & Charlie can be found
here:
Cambridge, MA: The Andover Shop (LINK: https://www.theandovershop.com/products/untitled-sep14_11-29)
New York, NY: J. Mueser: https://jmueser.com/
Stockholm: Tweed Country Sports (https://countrysports.se)
Stockholm: The English Bookshop (bookshop.se)
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Miles-Chet-Ralph-Charlie-history-ebook/dp/B0CH6HZ8Q9/
Bruce Boyer Tribute To Charlie Davidson / ALL THAT JAZZ. MILES DAVIS, the Creation of "COOL" and the introduction of the Waspy-Preppy look in Jazz
Friday, 14 February 2025
All 3 Fayed Brothers, Ex-Owners of Harrods, Are Now Accused of Sexual Assault
All 3
Fayed Brothers, Ex-Owners of Harrods, Are Now Accused of Sexual Assault
An abuse
scandal that once appeared centered on the billionaire Mohamed al-Fayed has
since widened to include Salah and Ali, with whom he owned Harrods, the iconic
London department store.
Megan Specia
By Megan
Specia
Reporting
from London
https://www.nytimes.com/2025/02/14/world/europe/harrods-mohamed-fayed-brothers-sexual-assault.html
Feb. 14,
2025
Updated 3:14
a.m. ET
Ms.
McIlquham had joined Harrods, the luxury department store in London, in 1993. A
Canadian on a work-abroad program, she was promoted from the shop floor to
become a personal assistant to Mohamed al-Fayed, who co-owned the business with
his younger brothers, Salah and Ali.
In early
1994, she recalled, she boarded the company’s private jet and flew to Gstaad to
work as an assistant to Ali.
Once she got
there, however, there was no work to do, she said. She was alone in the chalet
with Ali and a housekeeper. Then Ali, who was in his early 50s, took her to a
swimming pool. She remembers the black swimsuit and fake pearl necklace she was
wearing.
“I just
remember him pulling me in, the groping and the pulling in from the waist and
my bottom, just grabbing and groping and pulling,” said Ms. McIlquham, now 52,
in an interview. She believes it was the weekend of April 30, 1994, because she
remembers the Eurovision Song Contest was on TV.
“I was
molested, sexually molested, without a doubt. And he was just giggling,” she
said.
A spokesman
for Ali, who is now 81 and lives in Greenwich, Conn., denied the allegations
from Ms. McIlquham and others. “The alleged incidents simply never occurred,”
the spokesman said in a statement. “Mr. Fayed is not a perpetrator and will not
be scapegoated. He will robustly defend himself against these unsubstantiated
claims.”
In
September, a BBC documentary revealed how Mohamed al-Fayed, the billionaire
former chairman of Harrods, had abused women for decades before he died in
2023. More than 20 women shared accounts of having been raped or sexually
assaulted by him, detailing how he used his companies to groom and exploit
them. Harrods apologized, describing him as “an individual who was intent on
abusing his power wherever he operated.”
But in the
months since, several female former employees have come forward to allege that
his brothers — Salah, who died in 2010, and Ali — also assaulted them,
deepening a scandal that once appeared centered on one man.
As the last
living brother, Ali could still face possible repercussions as the dark history
of the Fayed family and the iconic department store they ran is unearthed. This
month, the BBC published the accounts of three women, including Ms. McIlquham,
who said that Ali sexually assaulted them while they worked for Harrods in the
1990s.
Ms.
McIlquham said that she believes what happened to her in Switzerland took place
within a broader system at Fayed-owned companies to exploit women. She said
that Ali “operated this system to his advantage.”
In coming
forward, Ms. McIlquham and others point a finger not only at Ali but also at
the doctors, recruiters, human resource professionals and others who enabled
the alleged abuse at the Fayeds’ businesses.
Accounts
given to The New York Times by another three women who said that they had been
targeted by Mohamed or Salah, together with court filings, signal a pattern of
exploitation at Harrods and at the Ritz Paris, a hotel the brothers also owned.
Documents, emails and corroborating details from other women provide additional
evidence of their allegations.
Harrods,
which is now owned by Qatar’s sovereign wealth fund, said it would not comment
on individual cases but “supports the bravery of all survivors in coming
forward.”
“Their
claims point to the breadth of abuse by Mohamed Fayed and raise serious
allegations against his brothers, Salah and Ali Fayed,” a spokesperson for
Harrods said.
The women
were recruited into positions where they would be vulnerable.
The Fayed
brothers, who were born in Egypt, founded a shipping business together and then
amassed oil, banking and real estate interests around the world.
They bought
the Ritz Paris in 1979 and Harrods in 1985. When Mohamed moved to London in
1974, he added “al-” to his name, though his brothers still went by Fayed.
Mohamed later became known for the romance between his son, Dodi, and Diana,
Princess of Wales, who both died in a 1997 car crash. Salah and Ali remained
lesser-known figures, but their business interests were intertwined.
All four
women interviewed by The Times described being recruited into executive
training programs that brought them closer to the brothers. Two women said that
they had been targeted by more than one brother.
In October
1993, while working as Mohamed’s personal assistant, Ms. McIlquham was sent to
Villa Windsor, the Paris mansion where Edward VIII and Wallis Simpson once
lived, and which Mohamed had leased. After she went to sleep, she said, Mohamed
entered her room with just a towel around his waist, and crawled into her bed.
“The
groping, the panting, the touching, him just going in for you, it was awful,”
she said. He eventually left when she mentioned her mother. Another Harrods
employee, who asked to remain anonymous over privacy concerns, was on the trip
with Ms. McIlquham and corroborated the stay at the Villa Windsor, and the date
— Oct. 13, 1993 — which she had recorded in her diary.
Ms.
McIlquham said that she hadn’t told anyone about the assault by Mohamed or
Ali’s groping of her because she assumed that she would be blamed. She needed
the job to pay her rent, and she continued working for Harrods until 1996, when
she left Britain. “I had to distance myself from what was going on, and get as
far away as I could,” she said.
Rachael
Louw, now 53, joined Harrods in 1993 before being recruited the following year
as a personal assistant to Salah. In the summer of 1994, she was told by a
supervisor to accompany Salah to his yacht and was given money for new clothes.
She traveled on a Harrods jet with Salah to France before a driver took them to
Monaco.
“I thought I
would be given files to file, paperwork to put away, maybe I would be making
the travel arrangements,” she said. But there was nothing, she said.
Salah
instructed her not to talk to the staff and propositioned her sexually multiple
times. Each time, she rebuffed him. Then, one night, he climbed into her bed,
she said. “He said, ‘I’m lonely, I just want to sleep with you,’” she
recounted. “It was the longest night of my life. I just lay there and I
couldn’t sleep.”
Afterward,
Ms. Louw asked to return to her previous job on the shop floor and tried to
move on with her life. But in 1996, she said that Mohamed summoned her to his
Park Lane apartment for some paperwork. Once there, Mohamed put his hand up her
skirt and groped her, Ms. Louw said.
Like Ms.
McIlquham, she did not feel able to speak out at the time. “This was just a
part of my life I put into a box and never opened up,” said Ms. Louw, who also
spoke about her experiences with Sky News this month.
Other women
have shared accounts in recent months of being abused by Salah, including in a
November report by the BBC. In a lawsuit filed in London on Jan. 29, a woman,
who was granted anonymity by the court, alleged that Salah drugged and raped
her while she worked for Harrods and that he coerced her into “terminating a
forced pregnancy,” according to court documents. She is suing the company.
The abuse
extended to other businesses owned by the Fayeds.
“We were not
hired for real jobs. We were hired to be abused sexually,” she said.
When she
first met Mohamed, he forcibly kissed her, she said, shoving his tongue in her
mouth. On another occasion when she was alone with him in an office, Ms.
Svensson said he shoved open her legs with his knee and then thrust her head
into his crotch.
“I was so,
so afraid, and I couldn’t get away,” she said.
She felt
unable to speak out, she said, because of the threat of losing her job. But
eventually, she said, she told a senior executive at the Ritz Paris about the
abuse and informed them that she was planning to resign. Days later, she was
fired.
Ms. Svensson
outlined her allegations against Mohamed in a 2003 letter to a lawyer
representing another hotel employee who said she had also experienced sexual
assault. In the letter, seen by The Times, she noted that she had reported the
sexual abuse to senior staff before leaving the Ritz Paris.
At least one
other woman, Pelham Spong, told the Ritz that Mohamed had assaulted her, in an
email exchange seen by The Times. Ms. Svensson’s account was included in the
BBC documentary last year, and Ms. Spong has previously spoken publicly about
her assault.
Ms. Spong,
who is American, was 23 and living in Paris when a recruiter asked in 2008 if
she would consider a job as an assistant to the Fayeds in Monaco. “I remember
thinking — I’m a woman with ambition. I think I’m fairly smart, and this sounds
amazing,” Ms. Spong said. In London, she was given a gynecological exam that
the company doctor said would remain confidential — a process that many victims
of Mohamed also recounted.
She was
found to have an infection and prescribed an antibiotic. Afterward, she was
sent to Mohamed’s office. “He sat me down, and he said, ‘You saw the doctor.
Did you take care of that problem?’” she said. “I was humiliated.”
He offered
to send her to business school, pay her rent and give her cash, she said, in
exchange for sex. Then, she said, he grabbed her face and forcibly kissed her.
On returning to Paris, she reported the assault to the recruiter, who shared
the information with executives at the Ritz. Ms. Spong was told that she was no
longer needed for the job. Emails between the recruiter and the Ritz Paris,
seen by The Times, corroborate her account.
The Ritz
Paris said it was conducting an investigation led by outside counsel. “We are
alarmed by the recent testimonies and allegations of abuse,” the Ritz said in a
statement. “We do not tolerate any form of violence or sexual coercion and
would like to express deepest sympathy to the brave women who have come
forward.”
The
Metropolitan Police in London have received more than 100 allegations against
Mohamed al-Fayed since the BBC documentary aired. In November, the police said
they were investigating at least five people who may have facilitated the
abuse.
Sigrid
McCawley, managing partner of Boies Schiller Flexner who is representing Ms.
Spong and has represented some of Jeffrey Epstein’s victims, emphasized the
importance of focusing not only on the abuse, but also on the system in which
it occurred.
“What we’ve
seen with the Fayeds’ story is just a saga that smacks of these enablers,” she
said. “Because we’re seeing this systemic abuse is happening, and this
well-oiled machine of all of these very sophisticated individuals that helped
him commit these crimes.”
Sarah Hurtes
contributed reporting.
Megan Specia
reports on Britain, Ireland and the Ukraine war for The Times. She is based in
London. More about Megan Specia






















