Tuesday, 18 February 2025

Lady Pamela Hicks / VIDEO:Interview with Lady Pamela Hicks Mountbatten - Edit 1

Lady Pamela Carmen Louise Hicks (née Mountbatten; born 19 April 1929) is a British aristocrat. She is the younger daughter of the 1st Earl Mountbatten of Burma by his wife, Edwina Mountbatten. Through her father, Lady Pamela is a first cousin of Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, and a great niece of the last Empress of Russia, Alexandra Feodorovna. She is the last surviving child of Louis and Edwina Mountbatten.
Lady Pamela is the widow of interior decorator and designer David Nightingale Hicks (25 March 1929 – 29 March 1998), son of stockbroker Herbert Hicks and Iris Elsie Platten. They were married on 13 January 1960 at Romsey Abbey in Hampshire. The bridesmaids were Princess Anne, Princess Clarissa of Hesse (daughter of her cousin Sophie), Victoria Marten (god-daughter of the bride), Lady Amanda Knatchbull and the Hon. Joanna Knatchbull (daughters of the bride's sister Patricia). Upon returning from honeymoon in the West Indies and New York, Lady Pamela learnt of the death of her mother in February 1960.



Lady Pamela Hicks on the real story behind Viceroy's House
Susan Springate
25 FEBRUARY 2017 • 8:00AM

Ensconced in the sitting room of her splendid Georgian home, Lady Pamela Hicks is recalling a recent visit from Hugh Bonneville. The actor is playing her father Lord Mountbatten in the the forthcoming film Viceroy’s House, which depicts the finals months of British rule in India.

“I took him secretly into the study as I wanted to see his salute,” she says. “Another actor, who played my father years ago, was a terrible slouch – but Hugh held himself beautifully.

“He didn’t look like my father of course,” she adds. “He was chosen because of the success of Downton Abbey.”

Lady Pamela, now 87, was 17 when her father was entrusted with overseeing the transfer of power to an independent India in 1947. 

 Lady Pamela Hicks at home in Piccadilly
Lady Pamela Hicks at home in Piccadilly CREDIT: JEFF GILBERT
She was used to privilege: her mother, Edwina, was a glamorous heiress and her father, “Dickie”, a third cousin to the Queen and Prince Philip’s uncle. Nothing however, could have prepared her for the extravagance of life at Viceroy’s House in Delhi. With 340 rooms, marble walls and 12 indoor courtyards, the Lutyens masterpiece had come to symbolise the splendour of the Raj.

Seeing it recreated on the big screen – 70 years to the month since her her parents were sworn in as the new Viceroy and Vicereine on ornate thrones – was, says Lady Pamela, enormously enjoyable. Although she admits to nit-picking all the way through the film, which stars Gillian Anderson, Michael Gambon, Simon Callow and Om Puri.


“In the film, Viceroy’s House is swarming with pretty girls but there wasn’t a woman in sight when I was there,” she says of the 500 Hindu, Muslim and Sikh servants that pandered to the lavish lifestyle of the Raj in its dying days.

There were 25 gardeners to attend to flower arrangements alone, and there was one man who did nothing but prepare chickens
“The grandeur was alarming,” she continues. “There were twenty-five gardeners to attend to flower arrangements alone, and there was one man who did nothing but prepare chickens. The house was so vast that one had to allow ten minutes to arrive at dinner on time.

“My father, of course, was quite unimpressed because he spent his youth with his Russian aunt and uncle in much grander buildings,” she adds.

Today, Lady Pamela lives in The Grove, an elegant country house in Oxfordshire, decorated by her husband, the celebrated society interior designer David Hicks who died of lung cancer in 1998. The couple have two daughters, Edwina and India, a bridesmaid at the wedding of Prince Charles and Princess Diana, and a son, the architect and designer Ashley.

As probably the only living witness to events within the Viceroy’s walls during that tumultuous time, Lady Pamela proved an indispensable source of information to director Gurinder Chadha, the filmmaker behind Bend it Like Beckham.

“We spoke for hours and she even sent one of her people to check the costumes while I was at the hairdresser. There I was, an array of fantastic scarlet uniforms laid out at my feet, with ladies under dryers either side of me,” Chadha says.

Despite her protestations to the contrary, the youngest daughter of Lord Mountbatten has a sharp memory. In one of the early scenes of the film, Lady Pamela’s mother, Edwina, is seen dismissing a racist maid who had accompanied the family from England.

 500 Hindu, Muslim and Sikh servants that pandered to the lavish lifestyle of the Raj in its dying days
500 Hindu, Muslim and Sikh servants pandered to the lavish lifestyle of the Raj in its dying days CREDIT: KERRY MONTEEN/PATHE UK
“That was Mrs Hudson,” she recalls. “My mother heard her say some unpleasant things and got rid of her. That was typical of the time. From the outset my father insisted that half the guests at garden parties and lunches should be Indian. I was staggered during one of them, when I inadvertently overheard someone say: 'What are all these filthy Indians doing here?’

“My parents were quite enlightened and brought us up so that we had no prejudice.”

The idea of [Nehru] betraying my father, who was a friend, by sleeping with his wife in his own house? No. It would have made it sordid
Lady Pamela’s mother, Edwina, is played by Gillian Anderson. “I thought she did a splendid job,” she says, “although she tried so hard to get my mother’s walk right, that she ended up giving her a little hump.”

Viceroy’s House does not touch on Lady Mountbatten’s rumoured affair with India’s first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, but Lady Pamela insists, “there was no way they could have had a sexual thing at the time because they were never alone. They were permanently surrounded by police and ADCs.

“Besides, Jawaharlal was a very honourable man. The idea of betraying my father, who was a friend, by sleeping with his wife in his own house? No. It would have made it sordid.”

Despite her mother’s tireless efforts in refugee camps in the bloody aftermath of partition – as well as her work with St John’s Ambulance until she died in Borneo in 1960 aged 58 – it is her extra-marital dalliances that are most often discussed.

“The world is only interested in sex,” says Lady Pamela. “I remember, years after her death, sitting next to her former lover Bunny Phillips, who told me: 'Your mother has this reputation of being some sort of nymphomaniac, but actually she hated sex. She just couldn’t live without admiration’.

[My] mother has this reputation of being some sort of nymphomaniac, but actually she hated sex. She just couldn’t live without admiration
“Jawaharlal and my mother undoubtedly loved one another. They were soul mates,” she continues. “But my father was never jealous. He could see that the relationship made her happier and easier to be around.”

Lord Mountbatten is portrayed in the film as a well-meaning but powerless figure, whose determination to keep India united proves futile when secret Westminster politicking is revealed and partition proves inevitable.

Partition – the dividing line drawn through the nation to create India and Pakistan – brought about the largest mass migration in human history, with 14 million Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims displaced and many lives lost in the massacres that followed.

As the split dawned, Viceroy’s House and its contents were divided up between the new states – even down to the individual library books.  Lord Mountbatten was asked by Nehru to stay on for ten months as governor-general of India, meaning his family witnessed every struggle.

“The staff were given the choice to stay or go,” Lady Pamela remembers. “And my father said there had to be a fair division of the items in Viceroy’s House. But when they were splitting up the orchestra, they didn’t know what to do with the cymbals. How do you divide cymbals? I think India got them in the end.”

When they were splitting up the orchestra, they didn’t know what to do with the cymbals. How do you divide cymbals? I think India got them in the end
Returning to England with her parents in June 1948, Lady Pamela mourned the colour and intensity of her adopted country. “My mother and I thought of ourselves as Indian,” she says. Distractions quickly presented themselves however, first as an invitation to attend the 1948 Olympics in London alongside the Royal family and later when her family moved to Malta, where her father resumed his Navy career. (He was eventually murdered by the IRA in 1979.)

Lady Pamela accompanied Princess Elizabeth on her 1952 Commonwealth Tour, as a lady-in-waiting. It was during the trip that the future Queen learned of her father, King George VI’s death. “I gave her a hug and a kiss, but suddenly thought, 'Hang on. She is the Queen now.’ So I did a deep curtsey.”

It is her memories of India however, that Lady Pamela holds most dear – and with the 70th anniversary of independence on August 15, her recollections of that day in New Delhi remain vivid.

“A tsunami of people filled every possible space as far as the eye could see, euphoria etched on their faces,” she says. Making her way through the surging crowds, she was encouraged by Nehru to remove her high-heeled shoes and quite literally walk on the laps and shoulders of the people. “Everyone laughed and cheered us on,” she says. “It was the most important day of my life. I had witnessed the birth of two new nations and been present while history was in the making.”


Daughter of Empire : Life as a Mountbatten​ by Pamela Hicks ​is ​published by Weidenfeld & Nicolson ​(£8.99). To order your copy​,  plus p&p​, call 0844 871 1514 or visit books.telegraph.co.uk​






Pamela Hicks: 'I admired my mother, but I never liked her’
In a new memoir, Lady Pamela Hicks, daughter of the last Viceroy, reflects on childhood and friendship with the Royals
Lady Pamela Hicks, 83, who was with Princess Elizabeth in 1952 when she heard she was now Queen
By Peter Stanford10:00PM GMT 16 Dec 2012

We’re trying to work out if Lady Pamela Hicks is the only living witness to the behind-the-scenes dramas of Indian Independence Day in 1948, which she observed as the 18-year-old daughter of Lord Mountbatten, the last Viceroy. “Well, I was speaking on the telephone recently to Gandhiji’s granddaughter,” she confides. “She seems to think she saw everything, too, but she was only nine at the time. I don’t count that.”

She doesn’t pronounce her verdict in a sour or jostling-for-position way. She has simply got to an age – “Eighty-three and a half, though my daughter will insist on telling everyone I am 84” – where she tells it precisely as she sees it. Which makes her very amusing company and rather indiscreet – not quite what I was expecting of an intimate of the Royal family (The Duke of Edinburgh is her first cousin and she is a great, great granddaughter of Queen Victoria). “Oh, but the Queen has such a good sense of humour,” she protests. “And as for Prince Philip…”

That connection with the Windsors has meant that Lady Pamela – “Pammy” to friends and family – has been there, or thereabouts, at some of the key moments in 20th century history. As well as her handmaiden role at the end of empire in India, she was one of the tiny group with Princess Elizabeth in Kenya in 1952 on the morning the princess heard that her father, George VI, had died and that she was now Queen. “I’m pretty sure,” she says, running through the others in her mind, “that I’m the only one left.”

She was a bridesmaid at the royal wedding in 1947, too. There is plenty of newsreel footage and archive material to show and tell generations to come what happened in Westminster Abbey, but Lady Pamela can take us inside Buckingham Palace, too. In her new memoir, Daughter of Empire, she describes the bride remaining “wonderfully calm” as first her tiara breaks, then her pearls (a gift from her father) go missing and finally her bouquet is misplaced, eventually turning up in a cupboard. “It had been popped in to remain cool.”

There are also witty pen portraits of the assembled European royals – most of them distant relatives of Lady Pamela’s. Crown Princess Juliana of the Netherlands “causes a stir” by bemoaning that “everyone’s jewellery is so dirty”. “It was typical of Princess Juliana to say such a thing, for she was very down to earth.” So what does Lady Pamela think of the more relaxed style of today’s Dutch and Scandinavian royal families? “Everybody talks about how they spend their time bicycling around their capital cities,” she says, “but I can tell you that the Stockholm palace is infinitely bigger than Buckingham Palace, and they still have plenty of flunkeys.”

Lady Pamela’s own domestic set-up is more modest. She lives in a beautiful manor house in the south Oxfordshire countryside. The influence of David Hicks is all about us. A designer who made his name in the Swinging Sixties, he and Lady Pamela married at the start of that decade – “an unorthodox match”, she writes in her memoir, but a happy one right up to his death in 1998. “I came from this ordinary naval family,” she recalls, for once employing a hefty dose of poetic licence, “and as a result of my marriage I’ve now spent 50 years surrounded by dotty creative people.” Perhaps that accounts for the gentle note of irreverence in her voice – that and the slight throatiness that she says is the result of having a “permanent frog”.

As well as David’s vibrant interiors, and the avenues of trees that carry my eye out of the floor-to-ceiling windows to outdoor rooms, Lady Pamela also has work by her son, the designer Ashley Hicks, to admire and puzzle over. “Did you notice that mound of earth with hands and feet sticking out of it as you drove in?” she asks. “He tells me it is a giant trying to get out of the earth.”

She still talks about her late husband as if he is in the next room, or down the corridor lovingly restoring the dining-room panels that were originally painted in the late 1930s for her wealthy heiress mother, Edwina, by Rex Whistler. There have been biographies of David Hicks, including one, she recounts with horror, “which described me as having led a very sheltered life in the countryside before my marriage. That is why I felt obliged to mention in my book that I had 10 proposals of marriage before I met David.”

Ten sounds like an awful lot, I suggest. “It is what happens when you are young. They weren’t all serious.” She makes a proposal sound rather like asking someone out on a date. “Even when they were serious, I didn’t want to go and live in the middle of a civil war.”

She is referring to the only suitor she names in the memoir – “There were more in my first draft, but India [her daughter, the former model and now Bahamas-based businesswoman] told me it was toe-curling.” George Arida is described in the book as “a dashing young Lebanese man” who lived in Beirut – hence the not entirely historically accurate reference to civil war. But today she chooses to call him “the man in black”. As in the Milk Tray adverts, scaling castle ramparts to bring her a box of chocolates? “Oh, no,” she giggles naughtily, clearly taken by the idea. “I mean more like that American singer. You know the one.” She pauses for a moment, but her memory is crystal clear. “Johnny Cash.”

If her own marriage was blessed, Lady Pamela writes candidly about the strains on her parents’ union. “My mother had at least 18 lovers,” she says as if describing pairs of shoes, “but my father, to my knowledge, only had one other. The saving grace was that he wasn’t jealous.”

Among Edwina Mountbatten’s reported love affairs was one with “Panditji” Nehru, the first Indian Prime Minister, which is said to have played out while her husband was bringing an end to British rule. While accepting that the two were very close, Lady Pamela disagrees with those biographers who claim that a physical relationship took place between the two. She does so not to protect her mother’s reputation, but because she doubts they ever had the opportunity to be alone, with so many servants and officials always in attendance.

“I never liked her,” she says unflinchingly of her mother. “She had no idea of how to play with children, unlike my father. She was a woman who could never have a personal conversation with you, and who needed constant flattery. If she didn’t have that, she became lonely and miserable.

“As a child, I admired her for her glamour. Then when we were in India, and I saw the work she did there, especially with Japanese prisoners of war, that admiration grew.”

Her mother died in 1960 at the age of 58, but Lady Pamela’s staunch loyalty belongs to her father. “He could be so naive. To her dying day, he was always worrying that Mummy would divorce him. 'I’ll have to move out to the flat above the garage,’ he’d say to us. But although she said she had no time for royalty, and that she was a true socialist, Mummy would never have left him. Try keeping her away from a party at Buckingham Palace.”

Lady Pamela and her sister [who became Countess Mountbatten after their father was murdered by the IRA in 1979] attended the wedding of William and Kate – “they were kind enough to invite us” – but her days playing any part in the royal set-up are over, she says. “There comes a moment, when you have as large a family as the Queen does, when you just have to have a cull and cut out all the people over 80.”

Which should leave her more time to write. “Oh, no. Not after the agony of this book [her second volume of memoirs]. I’ve never been a real writer. As a young woman I once submitted an article to The Times, about my pet mongoose, and got a rejection letter by return of post.”

'Daughter of Empire: Life as a Mountbatten’ by Pamela Hicks (W&N) is available from Telegraph Books at £13.99 + £1.35 p&p. Call 0844 871 1515 or go to books.telegraph.co.uk




Saturday, 15 February 2025

Miles, Chet, Ralph, & Charlie tells the story of the Andover Shop, Edited by Constantine Valhouli


 

Miles, Chet, Ralph, & Charlie tells the story of the Andover Shop, and how our co-founder

Charlie Davidson transformed a tiny store into an unlikely literary and cultural salon that brought together musicians like Miles Davis, Chet Baker, and Bobby Short, as well as writers like Ralph Ellison and Albert Murray. Yet the story was not who he dressed, but why. This book explores the unexpected role that Charlie's particular style of patrician clothing played in making people visible in the years before full civil rights.

 

The book is an "oral history" told through interviews with three of the leading voices in American style writing: G. Bruce Boyer (a former editor at Esquire and Town & Country), Alan Flusser (who dressed Gordon Gekko for the Wall Street movie, and who has written several of the canonical style books), and Richard Press (the former CEO of the iconic American menswear firm, J. Press).

https://www.theandovershop.com/products/untitled-sep14_11-29

 

Author Interview: Constantine Valhouli

Posted on July 24, 2024 by Byron Tully

https://theoldmoneybook.com/2024/07/24/author-interview-constantine-valhouli/

 

Recently, I had a moment to sit down with Constantine Valhouli, author of Miles, Chet, Ralph & Charlie, which details the fascinating history of The Andover Shop in Boston.

 

If you were ever wondering how Old Money Style clothes intersected with jazz, politics, and American history, read on…

 

And thanks again, Constantine.

 

BGT: Hi Constantine. Thank you for making the time to sit with me today. I know you’re promoting Miles, Chet, Ralph, & Charlie here in Europe as well as in the US, in addition to the other book(s) you’re working on. So, time is precious.

 

CAV: Those clever fellows at CERN tell me that time and space are infinite quantities, but my attorneys still bill by the hour …

 

BGT: Ha! Okay, first, let’s address the title. Who are the people you refer to?

 

CAV: Miles Davis, Chet Baker, Ralph Ellison … and everyone thinks the eponymous Charlie is Charlie Parker but it’s the founder of the Andover Shop, Charlie Davidson. One of main voices in the book, the tailor Mor Sène, said that Miles, Chet, Ralph & Charlie was a brilliant title because Miles Davis embodies east coast jazz while Chet Baker is west coast jazz personified, and Charlie Davidson bridges the two. I nodded and said that was exactly what I was thinking (but of course it wasn’t) and I’m happy to take credit for that accidental insight after the fact.

 

BGT: And Charlie Davidson comes across in the book as quite a character…

 

CAV: He was fascinating, complex, complicated, generous, ornery, and volatile. And sometimes contradictory. If you asked two people their opinions of him, you’d get such different answers that you’d wonder if they were even discussing the same person. Which makes for great raw material for a book.

 

BGT: Of course, The Andover Shop is a legendary clothing establishment that defined what we call Old Money Style, or Ivy Style. Can you give us a little background on the store—I wouldn’t call it a boutique—to provide a some context?

 

CAV: The look was very much an insider’s thing until it was democratized by the GI Bill and jazz, in roughly that order. Until the GI Bill after the Second World War, there were fewer colleges and even less financial aid. The students at these schools developed a distinctive look –– navy blazers and tweed jackets; corduroy and grey flannel trousers (khaki wouldn’t be introduced until after the war, but that’s another story). It was very much a look of privilege. Each of the major colleges had a shop serving the campus: J. Press at Yale and Princeton, The Andover Shop at Harvard, and so on.

 

Alumni from J. Press went on to start many of the defining clothing companies, and one of these was The Andover Shop. Each store had something they did very well, something which reflected the founder’s interests. For Charlie, it was jazz. He met Miles Davis and Chet Baker (as well as other influential figures like the legendary jazz columnist and bon vivant George Frazier) shortly after starting the shop. He began dressing them when their sound was changing, and this called for a different look than the uniforms of black tie or zoot suits. These musicians were playing on college campuses, and saw how the members of their privileged audiences dressed. It was fascinating to see how outsiders, in a time before civil rights, adapted the look of consummate insiders.

 

BGT: So this is about music, a collision of cultures, people who don’t ordinarily mix together getting to know one another…but it’s still about clothing, right?

 

Clothing is central to the story of The Andover Shop. Aspects of the story would be the same if it were a restaurant (a similar focus on, literally, taste) or a music venue (I’m thinking of the ones founded by impresario George Wein, which broke racial barriers by integrating audiences). But Charlie’s kind of clothing is loaded with meaning: what we aspire to, how we see ourselves, how we wish to be seen.

 

He understood the Boston Brahmin and how they saw themselves, and sold clothing that appealed to that crowd and those in their orbit. The details are very specific to New England. It’s Anglophile, but not British, Italian-accented but not Italian. Over the years, I’ve visited similar clothiers in places like London, Naples, and Stockholm, each reflects something deeply local in its aspiration –– a nuance which I, as an outsider, am unable to read. But for New England, Charlie understood how the traditions of Boston’s aristocracy were codified into taste.

 

BGT: ‘Codified into taste’, that’s a phrase. But this book is different from what readers might expect. It’s not a straight nonfiction title detailing the names, dates, and events surrounding the principal characters involved in The Andover Shop. You’ve compiled an ‘oral history’. Why did you opt for that format in order to tell this story?

 

A: One of my favorite books is Nelson Aldrich’s George, Being George, an oral history of his friend and Paris Review colleague George Plimpton. Nelson and I ended up unexpectedly working together on The Master of Eliot House, a book about a legendary Harvard figure named John Finley.  I mentioned to Nelson that I’d gathered all these interviews for a book on Charlie Davidson, but didn’t want to do a traditional narrative nonfiction approach. Almost everyone I spoke with was a natural raconteur; Nelson suggested doing it as an oral history to foreground these wonderful storytellers and preserve their distinct voices.

 

BGT: So the book’s a biography. It’s a tribute. It’s about music. It’s about a changing America. And how The Andover Shop contributed to and participated in all those. Was it difficult to maintain a focus while putting the book together?

 

A: Heh. It’s difficult for me to maintain focus in general. Especially before coffee. But Nina MacLaughlin of The Boston Globe rather generously described the book as “kaleidoscopic,” which I think may be a kind way of saying that I have the editorial focus of a ferret on amphetamines.

 

When I began, I had no idea where the book would take me. Oral histories offer a parallel to documentary filmmaking, in that the story emerges in the interviews and editing. The individuals in the book were fascinating, and the deeper I got into the research, connections emerged among these people. I tried to highlight the overlaps among the narrative threads, and how Charlie and the shop were the nexus for many of these connections.

 

Miles Davis, sporting an oxford cloth button down shirt in the studio.

 

BGT: Your contributors are a veritable pantheon of men’s style icons—I wouldn’t call them ‘fashion’ icons, but men who’ve made some tremendous contributions to the way we think about clothes and the way we dress. How did their participation come about?

 

CAV: Bruce Boyer is a former editor at Town & Country and Esquire, and has written several of the definitive books on traditional men’s style. Alan Flusser is an author and clothier who may be best known for dressing the characters in the Wall Street movie –– and in turn influencing how actual financiers chose to dress. And Richard Press is the former CEO of J. Press, and the grandson of that firm’s founder, so he has a direct connection to how this look began and how it evolved in relation to a changing America. I think this book may be the first time they’ve all appeared in such depth in one volume.

 

Their participation? It was during the pandemic, so we were all bored and I just reached out to mention the project, and what followed was a wonderful, ongoing conversation.

 

BGT: Charlie Davidson spots a young Barack Obama from a mile way—and a few years ahead of his time—proclaiming that the young senator would eventually be president. How did owning The Andover Shop put Charlie— and so many other players in your book—at the epicenter of politics? The shop is in Boston, not Washington DC. What was going on there?

 

CAV: Malcolm Gladwell described Charlie as one of the most connected people in the United States. It helped that the shop was across the street from Harvard, and next to the “final clubs” on Mount Auburn Street. The shop drew a cross-section of professors, students, and distinguished guests who were all deeply immersed in their fields. It’s no surprise that he’d know of Barack Obama long before the public did.

 

BGT: And for some reason, this same man and this same store were neck-deep in cutting edge culture.

 

CAV: Towards the end of his life –– and he lived past ninety –– Charlie was getting into rap music. But his first love was jazz, which we now think of as serious, something to be studied. But at the time, it was pop culture. Instead of Jazz at Lincoln Center imagine “Heavy Metal at Lincoln Center” in fifty years, and you get a sense of the arc that jazz has traveled from the cultural margins to a place in the American pantheon. (I should add that the two Andover Shop figures were closely involved with Jazz at Lincoln Center: social critic Albert Murray, and his protégé Quincy Jones.)

 

Al Murray and Ralph Ellison understood that jazz was never just entertainment, it was always political. It reflected, and was part of, the struggle for civil rights. Clothing was, too, which is why it played such a central role in jazz. Clothing made status visible, and was a way of claiming space publicly. After doing this book, I’m no longer surprised that a clothier would find himself at a nexus of the cultural and political spheres. 

 

BGT:  Yankee patricians and jazz musicians, trying on sport coats in the same shop. This just seems like a soap opera or a novel that no one would believe.

 

CAV: The marvelous Bruce Boyer described both this book and The Master of Eliot House as “having a cast of characters that would be improbable in a work of fiction.” I think back to Twain’s dictum that “fiction is constrained by what’s plausible but reality only by what’s possible.”

 

BGT: Was it just Charlie’s personality that held it all together? Or was it just a particular time in history—and a particular man and place—that might never come around again?

 

CAV: Yes. A number of people tell stories of Charlie kicking people out of the store if they couldn’t handle being in a racially integrated space. And it was his personal interests that drew these people together in the first place. He loved jazz, literature, history, and politics and had a rare opportunity to turn his shop into a salon where those subjects were discussed on a daily basis by some of the leading minds. And then he’d sell them a sweater or some socks. 

 

I feel that there was always, will always be, a Charlie of some sort. He’s almost an archetype. When I was in Copenhagen, there was a museum exhibit about clothing of the royal court. I sent Charlie a note saying that one of his collateral ancestors had probably put those together –– and combined technical skill with the knowledge of the social dynamics of the royal court. He was amused.

 

BGT: One of the chapters of your book bears the title, “When Substance Had Style”. That really resonated with me, and left me a little sad. Were there any points during the final review of the manuscript that you felt a little depressed? Like we’d lost something we might not get back?

 

CAV: Oh! That was a particularly melancholy chapter, but I think it reflected the price that Charlie –– and all of us who try to gather remarkable circles around ourselves –– must pay: the eventual death of all these friends. The gradual tightening of that circle, and the ever-present question of whether we’ve made some small difference in the lives of the people around us.

 

The short answer to your question is an emphatic yes. Those decades were certainly not a golden age for everyone, but there was an elegance to them that seems impossibly distant now. The majority of people aspire towards something very different, one which I find much less compelling.

 

BGT: I know you’re very private, but can you share with us your own personal experience at The Andover Shop?

 

There was this one time involving the volleyball team, a sloth that escaped from the Franklin Park Zoo, and an open bar, but my lawyers have advised me not to discuss it until The Andover Shop’s insurance company settles the claim. But I think the damage to their building has finally been repaired, and there’s talk of putting up a historic plaque to mark the memorable (if unfortunate) events.

 

BGT: Very diplomatic! And what’s next for you? When is the next book going to be published?

 

The Master of Eliot House comes out, in limited edition, in September. And in the meantime, I look forward to catching up on sleep.

 

BGT: Very much looking forward to that. Rest a little, and we’ll talk again soon.

 

 

Miles, Chet, Ralph & Charlie can be found here:

 

Cambridge, MA: The Andover Shop (LINK: https://www.theandovershop.com/products/untitled-sep14_11-29)

 

 

New York, NY: J. Mueser: https://jmueser.com/

 

 

Stockholm: Tweed Country Sports (https://countrysports.se)

 

 

Stockholm: The English Bookshop (bookshop.se)

 

 

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Miles-Chet-Ralph-Charlie-history-ebook/dp/B0CH6HZ8Q9/

Bruce Boyer Tribute To Charlie Davidson / ALL THAT JAZZ. MILES DAVIS, the Creation of "COOL" and the introduction of the Waspy-Preppy look in Jazz




Good Night, Sweet Prince: Exclusive Bruce Boyer Tribute To Charlie Davidson
DECEMBER 4, 2019

There are men all over the place reminiscing and telling stories about Charlie Davidson. Everyone either knew him or knew of him. Charlie ran The Andover Shop in Cambridge for more than a half century, and saw to the sartorial needs of professors and politicians, students, jazz musicians, and mere male mortals who wanted to look decently attired. He helped them all and made them better for it.

He was undoubtedly a good businessman and salesman, a tastemaker with the eye of a cosmetic surgeon and the insight of a psychiatrist combined. Hundreds of well-dressed men depended on Charlie for advice on their wardrobes. But above it all, as one Ivy Style reader said, he had a talent for friendship. His interests were wide, his knowledge deep, and his mind’s eye a sparkle. His wit quick and memorable, Charlie was a raconteur supreme, an urbane gentleman who could make you smile just to be in his company. Wonderful people have a way of making us feel wonderful.

Of the times I’ve spent with Charlie, I remember a particular evening that sums up for me what Charlie was. It was the opening night of Bobby Short’s last engagement at The Carlyle. Charlie invited my wife and me, Charlie Bourgeois, and Catherine Uy to the event. Of course Short knew Charlie well, as did all the other musicians in the group. Almost every jazz musician who played The Newport Jazz Festival over the years stopped at The Andover Shop to see him. When Charlie led us into the room, the band stood up in recognition. It was the beginning of a glittering evening full of wonderful music and champagne. After the music ended and the band left after midnight, Bobby Short came to our table and we sat and talked for another hour or so. Charlie was in his element, the rest of us were in Heaven.

After that I talked with Charlie over the phone, but didn’t see him until several years later when Patricia Mears, Deputy Director of The Museum at FIT, and I went to Cambridge to try and lure Charlie to our exhibition of Ivy styled clothing. “I can’t come to Manhattan any more,” he said, “all my New York friends are gone and it’s too painful.” And now Charlie’s gone, too.

It really does seem like the end of an era, a time when jazz musicians were heroes, and men dressed with an easy elegance. A time when substance had style. — G. BRUCE BOYER
ALL THAT JAZZ. MILES DAVIS, the Creation of "COOL" and the introduction of the Waspy-Preppy look in Jazz

Between 1953 and 1954 something curious happened ... At the same time that Miles Davis claimed to be unquestionable creator and pioneer of "Cool"... he also claimed to be flawless "Black Gentleman" in his Waspy-preppy Look.
So, after a visit somewhere in 1954 to a Cambridge, Massachusetts store, the well-known Andover Shop, Miles appears at her concerts and in the day-to-day life with the entire arsenal of "Chinos", "Button down's", knitted ties and regimentals, "tweed" and " seersucker."
In this way two worlds go into unexpected symbiosis. The symbols of the establishment are integrated into the artistic and creative "avant-garde" of Jazz.
Just look at the cover of Chet Baker's 1958 album to recognize all the "preppy" wardrobe, when Chet had had a Californian look in 1954 completely different.
( See the full story in R.L. Magazine online )






Friday, 14 February 2025

REMEMBERING 4 months ago: 37 women accuse “sexual predator” Mohamed Al-Fayed of rape and assault |...

Three former Harrods employees accuse Mohamed Al Fayed's sole surviving brother of sexual assault

All 3 Fayed Brothers, Ex-Owners of Harrods, Are Now Accused of Sexual Assault

 




All 3 Fayed Brothers, Ex-Owners of Harrods, Are Now Accused of Sexual Assault

 

An abuse scandal that once appeared centered on the billionaire Mohamed al-Fayed has since widened to include Salah and Ali, with whom he owned Harrods, the iconic London department store.

 

Megan Specia

By Megan Specia

Reporting from London

https://www.nytimes.com/2025/02/14/world/europe/harrods-mohamed-fayed-brothers-sexual-assault.html

Feb. 14, 2025

Updated 3:14 a.m. ET

 

Ms. McIlquham had joined Harrods, the luxury department store in London, in 1993. A Canadian on a work-abroad program, she was promoted from the shop floor to become a personal assistant to Mohamed al-Fayed, who co-owned the business with his younger brothers, Salah and Ali.

 

In early 1994, she recalled, she boarded the company’s private jet and flew to Gstaad to work as an assistant to Ali.

 

Once she got there, however, there was no work to do, she said. She was alone in the chalet with Ali and a housekeeper. Then Ali, who was in his early 50s, took her to a swimming pool. She remembers the black swimsuit and fake pearl necklace she was wearing.

 

“I just remember him pulling me in, the groping and the pulling in from the waist and my bottom, just grabbing and groping and pulling,” said Ms. McIlquham, now 52, in an interview. She believes it was the weekend of April 30, 1994, because she remembers the Eurovision Song Contest was on TV.

 

“I was molested, sexually molested, without a doubt. And he was just giggling,” she said.

 

A spokesman for Ali, who is now 81 and lives in Greenwich, Conn., denied the allegations from Ms. McIlquham and others. “The alleged incidents simply never occurred,” the spokesman said in a statement. “Mr. Fayed is not a perpetrator and will not be scapegoated. He will robustly defend himself against these unsubstantiated claims.”

 

In September, a BBC documentary revealed how Mohamed al-Fayed, the billionaire former chairman of Harrods, had abused women for decades before he died in 2023. More than 20 women shared accounts of having been raped or sexually assaulted by him, detailing how he used his companies to groom and exploit them. Harrods apologized, describing him as “an individual who was intent on abusing his power wherever he operated.”

 

But in the months since, several female former employees have come forward to allege that his brothers — Salah, who died in 2010, and Ali — also assaulted them, deepening a scandal that once appeared centered on one man.

 

As the last living brother, Ali could still face possible repercussions as the dark history of the Fayed family and the iconic department store they ran is unearthed. This month, the BBC published the accounts of three women, including Ms. McIlquham, who said that Ali sexually assaulted them while they worked for Harrods in the 1990s.

 

Ms. McIlquham said that she believes what happened to her in Switzerland took place within a broader system at Fayed-owned companies to exploit women. She said that Ali “operated this system to his advantage.”

 

In coming forward, Ms. McIlquham and others point a finger not only at Ali but also at the doctors, recruiters, human resource professionals and others who enabled the alleged abuse at the Fayeds’ businesses.

 

Accounts given to The New York Times by another three women who said that they had been targeted by Mohamed or Salah, together with court filings, signal a pattern of exploitation at Harrods and at the Ritz Paris, a hotel the brothers also owned. Documents, emails and corroborating details from other women provide additional evidence of their allegations.

 

Harrods, which is now owned by Qatar’s sovereign wealth fund, said it would not comment on individual cases but “supports the bravery of all survivors in coming forward.”

 

“Their claims point to the breadth of abuse by Mohamed Fayed and raise serious allegations against his brothers, Salah and Ali Fayed,” a spokesperson for Harrods said.

 

The women were recruited into positions where they would be vulnerable.

The Fayed brothers, who were born in Egypt, founded a shipping business together and then amassed oil, banking and real estate interests around the world.

 

They bought the Ritz Paris in 1979 and Harrods in 1985. When Mohamed moved to London in 1974, he added “al-” to his name, though his brothers still went by Fayed. Mohamed later became known for the romance between his son, Dodi, and Diana, Princess of Wales, who both died in a 1997 car crash. Salah and Ali remained lesser-known figures, but their business interests were intertwined.

 

All four women interviewed by The Times described being recruited into executive training programs that brought them closer to the brothers. Two women said that they had been targeted by more than one brother.

 

In October 1993, while working as Mohamed’s personal assistant, Ms. McIlquham was sent to Villa Windsor, the Paris mansion where Edward VIII and Wallis Simpson once lived, and which Mohamed had leased. After she went to sleep, she said, Mohamed entered her room with just a towel around his waist, and crawled into her bed.

 

“The groping, the panting, the touching, him just going in for you, it was awful,” she said. He eventually left when she mentioned her mother. Another Harrods employee, who asked to remain anonymous over privacy concerns, was on the trip with Ms. McIlquham and corroborated the stay at the Villa Windsor, and the date — Oct. 13, 1993 — which she had recorded in her diary.

 

Ms. McIlquham said that she hadn’t told anyone about the assault by Mohamed or Ali’s groping of her because she assumed that she would be blamed. She needed the job to pay her rent, and she continued working for Harrods until 1996, when she left Britain. “I had to distance myself from what was going on, and get as far away as I could,” she said.

 

Rachael Louw, now 53, joined Harrods in 1993 before being recruited the following year as a personal assistant to Salah. In the summer of 1994, she was told by a supervisor to accompany Salah to his yacht and was given money for new clothes. She traveled on a Harrods jet with Salah to France before a driver took them to Monaco.

 

“I thought I would be given files to file, paperwork to put away, maybe I would be making the travel arrangements,” she said. But there was nothing, she said.

 

Salah instructed her not to talk to the staff and propositioned her sexually multiple times. Each time, she rebuffed him. Then, one night, he climbed into her bed, she said. “He said, ‘I’m lonely, I just want to sleep with you,’” she recounted. “It was the longest night of my life. I just lay there and I couldn’t sleep.”

 

Afterward, Ms. Louw asked to return to her previous job on the shop floor and tried to move on with her life. But in 1996, she said that Mohamed summoned her to his Park Lane apartment for some paperwork. Once there, Mohamed put his hand up her skirt and groped her, Ms. Louw said.

 

Like Ms. McIlquham, she did not feel able to speak out at the time. “This was just a part of my life I put into a box and never opened up,” said Ms. Louw, who also spoke about her experiences with Sky News this month.

 

Other women have shared accounts in recent months of being abused by Salah, including in a November report by the BBC. In a lawsuit filed in London on Jan. 29, a woman, who was granted anonymity by the court, alleged that Salah drugged and raped her while she worked for Harrods and that he coerced her into “terminating a forced pregnancy,” according to court documents. She is suing the company.

 

The abuse extended to other businesses owned by the Fayeds.

 

“We were not hired for real jobs. We were hired to be abused sexually,” she said.

 

When she first met Mohamed, he forcibly kissed her, she said, shoving his tongue in her mouth. On another occasion when she was alone with him in an office, Ms. Svensson said he shoved open her legs with his knee and then thrust her head into his crotch.

 

“I was so, so afraid, and I couldn’t get away,” she said. 

 

She felt unable to speak out, she said, because of the threat of losing her job. But eventually, she said, she told a senior executive at the Ritz Paris about the abuse and informed them that she was planning to resign. Days later, she was fired.

 

Ms. Svensson outlined her allegations against Mohamed in a 2003 letter to a lawyer representing another hotel employee who said she had also experienced sexual assault. In the letter, seen by The Times, she noted that she had reported the sexual abuse to senior staff before leaving the Ritz Paris.

 

At least one other woman, Pelham Spong, told the Ritz that Mohamed had assaulted her, in an email exchange seen by The Times. Ms. Svensson’s account was included in the BBC documentary last year, and Ms. Spong has previously spoken publicly about her assault.

 

Ms. Spong, who is American, was 23 and living in Paris when a recruiter asked in 2008 if she would consider a job as an assistant to the Fayeds in Monaco. “I remember thinking — I’m a woman with ambition. I think I’m fairly smart, and this sounds amazing,” Ms. Spong said. In London, she was given a gynecological exam that the company doctor said would remain confidential — a process that many victims of Mohamed also recounted.

 

She was found to have an infection and prescribed an antibiotic. Afterward, she was sent to Mohamed’s office. “He sat me down, and he said, ‘You saw the doctor. Did you take care of that problem?’” she said. “I was humiliated.”

 

He offered to send her to business school, pay her rent and give her cash, she said, in exchange for sex. Then, she said, he grabbed her face and forcibly kissed her. On returning to Paris, she reported the assault to the recruiter, who shared the information with executives at the Ritz. Ms. Spong was told that she was no longer needed for the job. Emails between the recruiter and the Ritz Paris, seen by The Times, corroborate her account.

 

The Ritz Paris said it was conducting an investigation led by outside counsel. “We are alarmed by the recent testimonies and allegations of abuse,” the Ritz said in a statement. “We do not tolerate any form of violence or sexual coercion and would like to express deepest sympathy to the brave women who have come forward.”

 

The Metropolitan Police in London have received more than 100 allegations against Mohamed al-Fayed since the BBC documentary aired. In November, the police said they were investigating at least five people who may have facilitated the abuse.

 

Sigrid McCawley, managing partner of Boies Schiller Flexner who is representing Ms. Spong and has represented some of Jeffrey Epstein’s victims, emphasized the importance of focusing not only on the abuse, but also on the system in which it occurred.

 

“What we’ve seen with the Fayeds’ story is just a saga that smacks of these enablers,” she said. “Because we’re seeing this systemic abuse is happening, and this well-oiled machine of all of these very sophisticated individuals that helped him commit these crimes.”

 

Sarah Hurtes contributed reporting.

 

Megan Specia reports on Britain, Ireland and the Ukraine war for The Times. She is based in London. More about Megan Specia