Thursday 24 September 2020

The Unique Crombie 'Glen Tweed' Covert Coat




 



Glen plaid (short for Glen Urquhart plaid) or Glenurquhart check is a woollen fabric with a woven twill design of small and large checks. It is usually made of black/grey and white, or with more muted colours, particularly with two dark and two light stripes alternate with four dark and four light stripes which creates a crossing pattern of irregular checks. Glen plaid as a woven pattern may be extended to cotton shirting and other non-woollen fabrics.

The name is taken from the valley of Glenurquhart in Inverness-shire, Scotland, where the checked wool was first used in the 19th century by the New Zealand-born Countess of Seafield to outfit her gamekeepers, though the name Glen plaid does not appear before 1926. Glen plaid is also known as the Prince of Wales check, as it was popularized by the Duke of Windsor, when Prince of Wales.

In other words, despite its internationally known name (French prince de Galles, Spanish príncipe de Gales, Italian principe di Galles, etc.), the "Prince of Wales" fabric pattern is not a Welsh pattern but a Scottish one.

SEE ALSO : http://tweedlandthegentlemansclub.blogspot.com/2015/11/the-glen-urquhart-plaid.html

 


The Covert coat is very similar to the Chesterfield, but it was designed for hunting and the outdoors. Therefore, it had to be tailored from particularly sturdy material – the so-called Covert cloth, named after the covert bushes. It was designed to protect its wearer from mud, bush encounters, and of course the weather. For that reason, it had to be very heavy (29 or 30 ounces a yard), sturdy, and durable. Today, the fabric is not quite as heavy anymore, but it is still a tweed material made to last. It always comes in a brownish-green color because it does not show the dirt very much.

 

A Covert coat usually has the following:

 

Single-breasted with a fly front

Notched lapels

Made of brown-green Covert cloth

Short topcoat that is just a little longer than the jacket beneath

Signature four (sometimes five) lines of stitching at the cuffs and hem, and optionally on the flap of the chest pocket

Center vent

Two flap pockets with optional ticket pocket

The collar is constructed either of Covert cloth or velvet

Poacher’s pocket (huge inside pocket that can accommodate a newspaper or an iPad)

 


The rows of contrast stitching are a hallmark of the Covert coat and lend it a more casual flair. If you want an overcoat that will be your companion for the next two decades, you should consider this one.

https://www.artofmanliness.com/articles/mans-guide-overcoats/

 


 

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