Tuesday, 8 February 2022

BEN SILVER CHARLESTON SC


 

Our History - The Beginning

https://www.bensilver.com/history.dlp

 


Mr. Ben Silver was a maker of fine men’s overcoats when John F. Kennedy strode coatless, despite the January 1960 chill, into the White House. The youthful President’s televised indifference to outerwear plunged the men’s coat industry into a steep decline, from which it never recovered, and Mr. Silver’s prestigious nationwide network of wholesale accounts disappeared. Seeking another way to utilize the skills of a lifetime, he began to manufacturer fine traditional blazers, complemented by blazer buttons with the enameled insignia of a number of universities.

 

The blazers were an immediate success with the same fine men’s stores he had always served; but ironically the blazer buttons became the predominant product. Nearly every university, college prep, and prep school wanted them in their bookstores. Haberdashers wanted them to augment their blazer sales. Ben Silver became known as a purveyor of fine jewelry quality blazer buttons, producing the blazer buttons for American Presidents as well as corporations and clubs.

 

Our History - Blazer Buttons

When Mr. Ben Silver died in 1978, his daughter and son-in-law, Sue and Bob Prenner, left their legal careers and took over the small company. This transition was made less difficult because Mr. Silver, a man of great personal style and charm, had been well respected by both his customers and suppliers for his integrity and intelligence, and therefore every courtesy was extended to his family after his death.

 


Bob & Sue Prenner

 

Within two years, the Prenners achieved a milestone in the esoteric world of button making, when they were awarded a contract to produce 350,000 sets of Blazer Buttons as commemorative gifts for the 1980 Ronald Regan Presidential Inaugural Ball. The Prenners then moved the company from wholesale into direct retail sales with their first mail order catalog, and soon afterward, into their retail store location on historic King Street in Charleston, South Carolina.

 


Returning to the focus of the founder on men’s apparel, Sue and Bob introduced a quality blazer to serve as the backdrop for the jewelry blazer button. The traditional customer they served longed for the classics that had become increasingly difficult to find in the high-style 1980s, and the blazer became an immediate success. What was needed to complete the traditional look was traditional striped neckwear, which Bob himself had long sought to no avail. In 1984, however, on a buying trip to England, Sue and Bob noted the availability of authentic English striped neckties. It was then that the Prenners developed relationships with the English silk mills, and became makers of pure silk authentic British striped and created hand sewn neckwear. With the introduction of regimental neckwear to America, word spread and the demand for their classically styled product grew. In time, they added fine shirtings to the product mix, as their apparel collection began to broaden to include fine shoes and leather goods and eyewear.


Store Location

149 King Street

Charleston, SC 29401

View Google Map

 

Store Hours

Due to Covid-19 we are now open by appointment only; until further notice.

To schedule, please call:

(843) 577-4556 Ext: 604

Monday - Friday from 9am - 6pm

Saturday from 10am - 6pm

Contact

Phone: 843-577-4556

Toll Free: 1-800-221-4671


Sunday, 6 February 2022

Queen marks 70 years on the throne


Prince Charles pays tribute to ‘darling wife’ and future queen Camilla

 

First in line to throne thanks Duchess of Cornwall for support as royal family paves way for her to take title of queen

 


Jamie Grierson

@JamieGrierson

Sun 6 Feb 2022 13.01 GMT

https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2022/feb/06/prince-charles-pays-tribute-to-darling-wife-and-future-queen-camilla

 

The Prince of Wales has paid tribute to his “darling wife” the Duchess of Cornwall for her “steadfast support” after the Queen announced that Camilla will be known as “Queen Consort” when Charles becomes king.

 

In a statement released on Sunday, Charles heralded the Queen for the way her “devotion to the welfare of all her people inspires still greater admiration with each passing year”.

 

Elizabeth II, who has become the first British monarch in history to celebrate 70 years on the throne, used her milestone to issue her royal seal of approval for Camilla to become Queen Camilla.

 

The Queen was photographed working from her red boxes in an image released on the day she passed the historic anniversary.

 

The 95-year-old monarch is pictured with her papers of state in front of her; nearby stands a photograph of her father, King George VI, with a family corgi, taken at Buckingham Palace in 1948.

 

On 6 February 1952, the king died, and his daughter, aged 25, became the queen of a nation still recovering from the upheavals of the second world war.

 

In a statement released to mark her platinum jubilee, the Queen said: “It is a day that, even after 70 years, I still remember as much for the death of my father, King George VI, as for the start of my reign.

 

“As we mark this anniversary, it gives me pleasure to renew to you the pledge I gave in 1947 that my life will always be devoted to your service.”

 

In an intervention that shapes the future of the monarchy, the Queen expressed her “sincere wish” that Camilla be known as Queen Consort when the Prince of Wales becomes King, and called on the public to support them both.

 

Charles, in a written message marking the Queen’s accession day anniversary, said he and Camilla were “deeply conscious” of the honour.

 

“On this historic day, my wife and I join you all in congratulating Her Majesty the Queen on the remarkable achievement of serving this nation, the realms and Commonwealth for 70 years,” he said.

 

“We are deeply conscious of the honour represented by my mother’s wish. As we have sought together to serve and support Her Majesty and the people of our communities, my darling wife has been my own steadfast support throughout.

 

“The year of this unprecedented platinum jubilee brings an opportunity for us all to come together in celebrating the service of the Queen, by whose example we will continue to be led in the years to come.”

 

The Queen is paving the way for her daughter-in-law to be crowned at Charles’s side on his coronation day.

 

The Queen, who came to the throne when she was 25, chose to spend her accession day privately on the Sandringham estate in remembrance of her father.

 

National celebrations marking the Queen’s record-breaking service on the throne will be staged during a four-day bank holiday weekend from 2 June to 5 June.


Saturday, 5 February 2022

Queen reveals 'sincere wish' that Camilla becomes 'Queen Consort' when Charles is King.


Queen wants Camilla to be Queen Consort when Charles becomes king

 

Monarch expresses ‘sincere wish’ in candid message marking 70th anniversary of her accession

 


Caroline Davies

Sat 5 Feb 2022 22.00 GMT

https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2022/feb/05/queen-wants-camilla-to-be-queen-consort-when-charles-becomes-king

 

The Queen has expressed her “sincere wish” that the Duchess of Cornwall becomes Queen Consort when Charles becomes king.

 

In a candid message marking the 70th anniversary of her accession, the monarch made clear her desire, unambiguously paving the way for Queen Camilla.

 

When the duchess married the Prince of Wales in 2005, it was made clear by Clarence House that she would carry the title of HRH The Princess Consort.

 

It has long been speculated that this was a title of convenience at a time when the duchess was seen to be less popular in the polls, due to her relationship with Charles when he was married to Diana, Princess of Wales.

 

Charles is understood to have long harboured a firm desire his wife should carry the title of Queen Consort, and be thus crowned and anointed, when he becomes king.

 

The Queen made clear she supported this in a written message released on Saturday before Sunday’s Accession Day.

 

In it, the Queen thanked the nation for the “loyalty and affection” she had received over her long reign.

 

She added: “And when, in the fullness of time, my son Charles becomes King, I know you will give him and his wife, Camilla, the same support that you have given me; and it is my sincere wish that, when that time comes, Camilla will be known as Queen Consort as she continues her own loyal service.”

 

The Queen has recently signalled her strong support for Camilla, making the duchess a Royal Lady of the Most Noble Order of the Garter, in recognition of her contribution to the monarchy.

 

Many observers saw this as a step towards confirming Camilla would be accorded Queen Consort status.

 

Senior royals clearly feel public opinion about Camilla has changed in recent years with her popularity growing, and that this historic moment in the Queen’s reign as she marks her platinum jubilee is an appropriate time to end speculation about Camilla’s future title.

 

At the time of her marriage to Charles, many questioned that she could not be styled Princess Consort and that protocol dictated she would be Queen Camilla in any event, in the same way the Queen Mother became Queen Elizabeth when she married George VI.

 

The Queen, who will mark the 70th anniversary of her accession in private at Sandringham on Sunday, said in her message that it was still a day “even after 70 years, I still remember as much for the death of my father, George VI, as for the start of my reign.”

 

She renewed the pledge she first gave in 1947 “that my life will always be devoted to your service.”

 

She also paid tribute to the Duke of Edinburgh, who died in April aged 99 after being at her side during 73 years of marriage.

 

She said: “I am fortunate to have had the steadfast and loving support of my family.

 

“I was blessed that in Prince Philip I had a partner willing to carry out the role of consort and unselfishly make the sacrifices that go with it.

 

“It is a role I saw my own mother perform during my father’s reign.”

 

She reflected on the “goodwill shown to me by people of all nationalities, faiths and ages in this country and around the world over these years.”

 

“I remain eternally grateful for, and humbled by, the loyalty and affection that you continue to give me.”

 

It is not the first time the Queen has expressed her “sincere wish” on a delicate matter.

 

In 2018, she ensured Charles would succeed her as head of the Commonwealth, after much debate over who her successor would be.

 

She voiced her views the day before top government officials from the 53-nation body met at Windsor Castle, saying it was her “sincere wish that the Commonwealth will continue to offer stability and continuity to future generations and will decide one day the Prince of Wales should carry on the important work started by my father in 1949”.

 

Unsurprisingly, after that declaration, the Commonwealth agreed Charles, who was not a universally popular choice, should succeed his mother as head.

 

Camilla would technically have been Queen when Charles acceded to the throne, and only legislation would have prevented it.

 

But royal aides insisted, when she married Charles in 2005, that Camilla did not want to be queen and said originally that the former Mrs Parker Bowles “intended” to be known instead as Princess Consort – the first in British history – instead.

 

Any mention of “Princess Consort” was removed from Charles’s website during a revamp in 2018.

 

Former BBC royal correspondent Peter Hunt said: “This is the most extraordinary message. The Queen is ensuring the transition, when it comes, to her son as king is as seamless and trouble-free as possible.

 

“She’s future-proofing an institution she’s served for 70 years. And for Camilla, the journey from being the third person in a marriage to queen-in-waiting is complete.”

 

Women married to a monarch have historically been crowned Queen Consort.

 

Such was the case for the George VI’s wife, Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, and for George V’s wife Queen Mary – the Queen’s grandmother.

 

The exception was Queen Mary II who, with her husband, King William III, was joint-Sovereign from 1689 to 1694.

 

The royal website used to declare: “A Queen consort is crowned with the King, in a similar but simpler ceremony.”

 

But after Charles’s marriage to Camilla, it added the get-out clause “unless decided otherwise”.

 

Queen Victoria’s husband, Albert, was appointed Prince Consort 17 years after his marriage. He worked diligently to win the public’s affection after suffering initial hostility.

 

Victoria had wanted him to be King Consort when they married, but the then prime minister Lord Melbourne ruled it out.

 

The Duke of Edinburgh did not hold the title Prince Consort, having rejected the offer in the early years of the Queen’s reign.

 

Queen Consort v Queen Regnant

Camilla may be destined to be a Queen but not the Queen.

 

The Queen is Queen Regnant, a female monarch equivalent in rank and title to a king, who reigns in her own right. A Queen Consort is the wife of a reigning king.

 

While a Queen Regnant possesses and exercises sovereign powers, a Queen Consort – such as the Queen’s mother, who became Queen Elizabeth when George VI became king – does not formally share her spouses powers.


Haute couture, summer 2022: High fashion returns to Paris catwalks • FRA...

Friday, 4 February 2022

Hondelatte Raconte : Yves Saint Laurent, histoire officieuse / Saint Laurent et moi Une histoire intime / Yves Saint Laurent: the battle for his life story



Saint Laurent et moi Une histoire intime

Yves Saint Laurent, c'est la mode, le luxe, le génie. Mais derrière ce nom se cache un homme tourmenté avec qui Fabrice Thomas a partagé la vie intime. Il nous fait découvrir ici l'univers du couturier et ses coulisses. Entre 1990 et 1993, Fabrice Thomas a vécu avec Yves Saint Laurent comme compagnon et amant. Séparé dans la vie quotidienne de Pierre Bergé depuis 1976, Yves Saint Laurent sort de cure de désintoxication et souhaite refaire sa vie. En 1990, il a 54 ans, Fabrice Thomas 29. Salarié de la société YSL depuis 1982 et amant de Pierre Bergé, Fabrice Thomas reçoit pour mission de Pierre Bergé de vivre avec le couturier pour le soutenir afin qu'il puisse continuer à créer. Ce témoignage est l'histoire d'un homme joueur et en même temps jouet de forces qui le dépassent et qu'il s'imagine contrôler alors que la plupart du temps elles le contrôlent. Le récit couvre une période de douze ans et s'intéresse plus particulièrement à la vie commune avec Yves Saint Laurent, de 1990 à 1993, mais revient aussi par flash-back sur sa vie d'employé au service de Pierre Bergé, entre 1982 et 1989.



Yves Saint Laurent: the battle for his life story

 

Six years after he died, the 'truth' over Yves Saint Laurent's hedonistic and tortured life is being fought over by two new films

‘You know, I’m not that nice’

 


John-Michael O'Sullivan

Sun 2 Mar 2014 08.00 GMT

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2014/mar/02/yves-saint-laurent-battle-life-story

 

In 2001, seven years before he died, Yves Saint Laurent agreed to be filmed by documentary-maker David Teboul for a rare behind-the-scenes look at his work. In the opening scene, watching a slideshow of family photographs, he grimaces: "J'ai joué le 'grand couturier'…" His voice is both sad and self-mocking; the voice of an old man looking back across a great distance at his frail 16-year-old self, head bowed over his lavishly dressed paper dolls.

 

Growing up in 1940s French Algeria, the young Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent dreamed of Paris: a bullied outcast at school, he escaped into fantasy at home – devouring his mother's fashion magazines, sketching endlessly, and predicting (in the safety of his adoring family circle, at least) a future of spectacular fame.

 

Six decades on, the story of the little boy who played "grand couturier", and who grew up to become the century's most notorious fashion designer, shows no sign of losing its appeal. This year will see the release of two films based on his life: the first, actor/director Jalil Lespert's Yves Saint Laurent, is currently topping the French box office, charming audiences with its affectionately human portrait of the man behind the myth. In October the second – directed by Bertrand Bonello, best known for the controversial L'Apollonide, or House of Tolerance – will be released.

 

Pierre Bergé, Saint Laurent's partner, has granted Lespert access to his extensive archives and last year tweeted his outrage at the rival project: "I hold the moral rights over YSL's work… A trial on the cards?" Still, Bonello has his own heavyweight backer in Kering – the luxury conglomerate which now owns the Yves Saint Laurent label. His biopic will focus on Yves during the years when he accomplished his definitive works (the decade ending his triumphant Ballet Russes collection in 1976); and Bonello is playing up his version as the "unauthorised" story – one which will portray Yves's truth, rather than Pierre's.

 

It is the latest round in the battle for the designer's legacy. Since the late 90s some of the biggest names in fashion, from Lanvin's Alber Elbaz to Tom Ford, have spent periods at the label's helm; ultimately even the all-conquering Ford was defeated – simply, it seemed, not Yves enough. Saint Laurent himself died of brain cancer in 2008; four years later Hedi Slimane – first hired as a menswear designer back in 1996 – returned to the house and immediately shortened the label's name to Saint Laurent. The move provoked an immediate storm of protest, and a surprisingly long-lived backlash: last autumn, Parisian store Colette fell out with the label over T-shirts which bore the slogan: AIN'T LAURENT WITHOUT YVES.

 

It's not hard to understand the fascination with the YSL story, a saga that blends wild public success with private suffering. Outwardly Saint Laurent led a charmed life. By the age of 18, he had won an international design competition (beating future rival Karl Lagerfeld) and been hired by fashion's reigning Sun King, Christian Dior. Lespert's film begins shortly after, with Yves enthroned as Dior's crown prince. As played by Pierre Niney, he is at once violently demanding and intensely shy, pampered and secure – as he had been in Algeria – in a world of adoring women. But that sheltered, happy existence was soon to be shattered, with Dior's premature death in 1957 pushing his seemingly reluctant successor into the spotlight.

 

Saint Laurent became an object of immediate fascination: quiet, timid, with neatly parted schoolboy hair, anxious eyes lurking behind thick glasses and a frail body encased in a tight black suit. L'Express hailed him as France's latest enfant triste – another of the country's new wave of melancholy prodigies, like novelist Françoise Sagan and painter Bertrand Buffet. Womens Wear Daily's correspondent was more specific, and less charitable – she saw "an ugly, ungainly, overgrown boy with thick glasses, and so horribly shy he couldn't take his eyes off the floor".

 

Charged, at 21, with safeguarding the future of the world's most successful fashion house, Saint Laurent began well: after his first, rapturously received collection, the International Herald Tribune's correspondent reported: "Everybody was crying. It was the emotional fashion binge of all time."

 

The rapturous reviews were soon followed by doubting ones, and two years later the House of Dior took advantage of Saint Laurent's military call-up to have their boy wonder replaced. Exiled from his Avenue Montaigne paradise, he fell apart and was admitted to mental hospital a bare three weeks after reporting for duty: a has-been at 24.

 

But Yves was not alone. Shortly after his Dior début in 1958, he had met Buffet's then-boyfriend, Pierre Bergé, and embarked on a personal and professional relationship which would endure to the end of his life. Bergé got Yves out of hospital and back to work, helping to set up the label whose three sensuously entwined initials would revolutionise Parisian fashion in the 60s, scandalise the world in the 70s and stamp themselves imperiously across the 80s.

 

From the outset, their roles were clear. Yves was the vulnerable, suffering artist and Pierre the fiercely controlling protector: a man who, in Lespert's film, is painfully aware of his public image – "the pimp who's found his all-star hooker". And in the frail Niney, the director has found an actor perhaps more like Saint Laurent than Saint Laurent himself ever was: tortured, intense, and yet endearingly childlike as he stumbles out of couture's disciplined universe into the liberated decadence of the 60s.

 

There are signs of a dark side, too; the jealous possessiveness of friends, the trembling fear of physical intimacy, the ability to work himself up into convenient hysterics at the slightest hint of pressure. And there are flashes of a strain of steel that few saw, or chose to see.  "Yves was a very strong person," says Susan Train, Condé Nast's Parisian bureau chief and a friend of both Saint Laurent and Bergé. "But he was much happier to keep Pierre out in front, making all the noise and doing the barking and nipping at people's heels. Yves depended enormously on Pierre, and he would never have been the success he was without him."

 

That success took time: the first Yves Saint Laurent show, in January 1962, received a moderate response. But in the years that followed, his star soared. He created ideas that became overnight sensations and then timeless icons: the Mondrian-print shift dress, the Saharienne safari jacket, the Le Smoking trouser suit, Catherine Deneuve's Belle de Jour wardrobe. And in the mid-60s, his ready-to-wear Rive Gauche label became a global phenomenon, offering women an affordable slice of the YSL dream. The young, timid Yves had gone, replaced by a charming, seemingly assured man who was more than just a household name – like Coco Chanel, he had become his brand's most alluringly potent incarnation.

 

Magazines captured images of Yves at play: partying with Halston and Warhol in New York, making mischief with muses such as Betty Catroux and Loulou de la Falaise in Paris, and relaxing with the kif-smoking jet set in Marrakech. His dark suits disappeared, replaced by luxuriously louche kaftans, silk shirts, suede jackets and leather trenchcoats. And when he stepped in front of Jeanloup Sieff's lens to promote his first men's fragrance in 1971, he went nude. His instructions were specific: "I want to create a scandal."

 

That image became a desperately effective mask. The paparazzi-friendly Yves who danced the night away in the 60s and 70s was high – on success, on fame and on an ever-changing cocktail of alcohol, acid and cocaine. Off camera there were fierce, increasingly violent rows with Pierre, who was struggling to keep both the business and Yves himself afloat. Ultimately Bergé would move out, unable to cope with Yves's utter self-absorption. As the years went on they both had other interests, other passions, other lovers (most notably Lagerfeld protégé Jacques de Bascher, whose affair with Yves added another dimension to the bitter Lagerfeld/Saint Laurent rivalry).

 

They continued to function as a symbiotic double act to the end. And while Pierre became an increasingly belligerent spokesperson, Yves flinched away from the public gaze, exhausted by the fashion treadmill and yet apparently unable to stop. There were rumours of illness, of Aids, and regular premature reports of his death. In his diaries Warhol recorded: "Loulou [de la Falaise] told us that YSL really was such a genius that he just can't take it, he has to take a million pills and the whole office gets so depressed when he's depressed…"

 

Finally Yves simply withdrew: Pierre commented that his partner had "entered depression as one enters a religion". And, as ever, Bergé took care of everything. "Everything I didn't have, he had," Yves said in 2001. "His strength meant I could rest on him when I was out of breath."

 

Even at his most extroverted moments, Yves had been shielded by his cabal of intimates; towards the end, his world was reduced to his studio on Avenue Marceau, the couple's holiday home in Marrakech and the cloistered apartment on Rue de Babylone to which fewer and fewer people were admitted. At the same time, he signed his name to everything from sunglasses to bed linens to cigarettes – and licensed a range of era-defining fragrances (Opium, Jazz, Kouros), which would keep YSL's name firmly in the spotlight as the man behind the initials slowly faded away.

 

If the two new films are likely to reveal anything it is this: the man himself remains an enigma. Early in Lespert's film, he confides in Bergé: "You know, I'm not that nice." And you sense that not-niceness remains the largely untold part of the Saint Laurent story – the man who could cut friends and supporters out of his life without a backward glance, who averted his gaze from unpleasantness and who sheltered behind Bergé's aggressive energy just as completely as he sheltered behind his thick-lensed glasses.

 

Yves was a genius, indulged and excused by a generation that believed that geniuses should live by different rules. In some respects that universe still endures in fashion, particularly in Paris: it's only been three years, after all, since John Galliano – another indulged Dior boy wonder – had his own startlingly public fall from grace.

 

Saint Laurent continued designing until 2002 – every show remorselessly measured against his past hits, and every final bow accompanied by the suspense of waiting to see whether he'd manage the short walk to the end of the runway. Lespert's film ends with Yves stumbling on to the runway, mouth slumped askew, eyes lost behind his glasses, his movement unsteady and uncertain.

 

Which of the films will be closer to the 'truth'? It is hard to say. Even in life, Yves Saint Laurent spent decades lost behind a screen of conjecture and rumour: his story has long been more legend than fact.

 

Yves Saint Laurent is released on 21 March


Wednesday, 2 February 2022

When Five Cambridge University Students Became Soviet Spies |


 SEE ALSO: https://tweedlandthegentlemansclub.blogspot.com/2019/12/the-crown-season-three-was-queens-art.html

 


Cambridge Five

The Cambridge Spy Ring was a ring of spies in the United Kingdom that passed information to the Soviet Union during World War II and was active from the 1930s until at least into the early 1950s. None of the known members were ever prosecuted for spying. The number and membership of the ring emerged slowly, from the 1950s onwards. The general public first became aware of the conspiracy after the sudden flight of Donald Maclean (cryptonym: Homer) and Guy Burgess (cryptonym: Hicks) to the Soviet Union in 1951. Suspicion immediately fell on Harold "Kim" Philby (cryptonyms: Sonny, Stanley), who eventually fled the country in 1963. Following Philby's flight, British intelligence obtained confessions from Anthony Blunt (cryptonyms: Tony, Johnson) and then John Cairncross (cryptonym: Liszt), who have come to be seen as the last two of a group of five. Their involvement was kept secret for many years: until 1979 for Blunt, and 1990 for Cairncross. The moniker Cambridge Four evolved to become the Cambridge Five after Cairncross was added.

 

The term "Cambridge" refers to the recruitment of the group during their education at the University of Cambridge in the 1930s. Debate surrounds the exact timing of their recruitment by Soviet intelligence. Blunt claimed that they were not recruited as agents until after they had graduated. A Fellow of Trinity College, Blunt was several years older than Burgess, Maclean, and Philby; he acted as a talent-spotter and recruiter.

 

All of the five were convinced that the Marxism–Leninism of Soviet Communism was the best available political system, and especially the best defence against the rise of fascism. All pursued successful careers in branches of the British government. They passed large amounts of intelligence to the Soviet Union, so much so that the KGB became suspicious that at least some of it was false. Perhaps as important as the intelligence they passed was the demoralizing effect to the British Establishment of their slow unmasking, and the mistrust in British security this caused in the United States.

 

Many others have also been accused of membership in the Cambridge ring. Blunt and Burgess were both members of the Cambridge Apostles, an exclusive secret society at Cambridge University. Other Apostles accused of having spied for the Soviets include Michael Straight and Guy Liddell.

 

Membership

The following five supplied intelligence to the Soviets under their controller Yuri Modin who later defected to the West. Modin said that Moscow did not really trust the Cambridge double agents during WWII. The KGB had difficulty believing that the men would have access to top secret documents; they were particularly suspicious of Philby, wondering how he could have become an agent given his Communist past. One report later stated that "About half the documents the British spies sent to Moscow were never even read" due to the paranoia.[3] Nonetheless, the Soviets accepted a great deal of secret information, 1,771 documents from Blunt, 4,605 from Burgess, 4,593 from MacLean and 5,832 from Cairncross, during 1941 to 1945.

 

Donald Maclean and Guy Burgess

Donald Maclean was a British diplomat who was a spy for the Soviet Union during World War II and early on into the Cold War. Maclean studied at the University of Cambridge in the early 1930s where he met Guy Burgess. Burgess was also a British diplomat who spied for the Soviet Union in World War II and early on into the Cold War. They both disagreed with the idea of capitalism. Later they were both recruited by Soviet intelligence operatives and became undercover agents for the Soviet Union. Maclean began delivering information to the Soviet intelligence operatives as a member of the British Foreign Office in 1934. Soon after, Burgess also began supplying information to the Soviet Union in 1936 from his position as a BBC correspondent up until 1938, then as an active member of MI6 intelligence continued to supply classified information up until 1941, and then finally as a member of the British Foreign Office up until 1944.

 

Maclean and Burgess were soon known as the "hopeless drunks" due to the fact that they had a hard time keeping their secret occupations to themselves. It is said that one time, while highly intoxicated, Burgess risked exposing his second identity. He was leaving a pub where he accidentally dropped one of the secret files he had taken from the Foreign Office. Maclean was also known to have loose lips and said to have leaked information about his secret duties to his brother and close friends. Although they struggled to keep secrets, that did not stop them from delivering information. It is said that Burgess handed over about 389 top secret documents to the KGB within the early part of 1945 along with an additional 168 documents in December of 1949.

 

All five were active during World War II. Philby, when he was posted in the British embassy in Washington, DC, after the war, learned that US and British intelligence were searching for a British embassy mole (cryptonym Homer) who was passing information to the Soviet Union, relying on material uncovered by the Venona project.

 

Philby learned one of the suspects was Maclean. Realizing he had to act fast, he ordered Burgess, who was also on the embassy staff and living with Philby, to warn Maclean in England, where he was serving in the Foreign Office headquarters. Burgess was recalled from the United States due to "bad behaviour" and upon reaching London, warned Maclean.

 

In early summer 1951, Burgess and Maclean made international headlines by disappearing. (They had taken a ship from Southampton to St. Malo, France, a train to Paris, and a flight to Moscow.) Their whereabouts were unclear for some time and the suspicion that they had defected to the Soviet Union turned out to be correct; that did not become public knowledge until 1956 when the two appeared at a press conference in Moscow. A warrant was not issued for their arrest until 1962.

 

It was obvious they had been tipped off, and Philby quickly became the prime suspect due to his close relation with Burgess. Though Burgess was not supposed to defect at the same time as Maclean, he went along. It has been claimed that the KGB ordered Burgess to go to Moscow. This move damaged Philby's reputation, with many speculating that had it not occurred, Philby could have climbed even higher in the Secret Intelligence Service.

 

Between 1934 and 1951 Maclean passed numerous secrets to Moscow. The lack of detection was due to the refusal of the Secret Service to listen to warnings from the US, "even after the FBI had established that an agent code-named Homer had been operating inside the British embassy in Washington during the war", according to a review of MacLean's biography (in 2018) by author Roland Philipps.

 

In 2019, Russia honoured Burgess and Maclean in a ceremony; a plaque was attached to the building where they had lived in the 50s. The head of the SVR foreign intelligence service, praised the duo on social media for "having supplied Soviet intelligence with the most important information for more than 20 years, [making] a significant contribution to the victory over fascism, the protection of our strategic interests and ensuring the safety of our country".

 

A book review in The Guardian of Andrew Lownie's biography of Guy Burgess included this conclusion: "[leaving] us all the more astonished that such a smelly, scruffy, lying, gabby, promiscuous, drunken slob could penetrate the heart of the establishment without anyone apparently noticing that he was also a Soviet masterspy".

 

Stalin's Englishman: The Lives of Guy Burgess is a biography of Burgess that argues that he, of all the members of the Cambridge Five, was perhaps the most influential.

 

Harold "Kim" Philby

Harold "Kim" Philby was a senior officer in Britain's Secret Intelligence Service, known as MI6, who began his work for the Soviet Union as a spy in 1934. He went on to serve the KGB for 54 years. He was known for passing more than 900 British documents over to the KGB. He served as a double agent.

 

Investigation of Philby found several suspicious matters but nothing for which he could be prosecuted. Nevertheless, he was forced to resign from MI6. In 1955 he was named in the press, with questions also raised in the House of Commons, as chief suspect for "the Third Man" and he called a press conference to deny the allegation. That same year, Philby was ruled out as a suspect when British Foreign Secretary Harold Macmillan cleared him of all charges.

 

In the later 1950s, Philby left the secret service and began working as a journalist in the Middle East; both The Economist and The Observer provided his employment there. MI6 then re-employed him at around the same time, to provide reports from that region.

 

In 1961, defector Anatoliy Golitsyn provided information which pointed to Philby. An MI6 officer and friend of Philby from his earlier MI6 days, John Nicholas Rede Elliott, was sent in 1963 to interview him in Beirut and reported that Philby seemed to know he was coming (indicating the presence of yet another mole). Nonetheless, Philby allegedly confessed to Elliott.

 

Shortly afterwards, apparently fearing he might be abducted in Lebanon, Philby defected to the Soviet Union under cover of night, aboard a Soviet freighter. For the first seven years in Moscow, he was under virtual house arrest since the Soviets were concerned that he might defect to the West. According to an article in The New York Times, he was given no rank nor an office. In fact, "for the most part, Philby was frozen out, his suggestions ignored" ... This ruined his life".[15] After his death, however, Philby was awarded a number of medals by the Soviets.

 

Anthony Blunt

Anthony Blunt was a former Surveyor of the King's Pictures and later Queen's Pictures for the royal art collection. He served as an MI5 member and supplied secret information to the KGB, while also providing warnings to fellow agents of certain counterintelligence that could potentially endanger them.

 

In 1964, MI5 received information from the American Michael Whitney Straight pointing to Blunt's espionage; the two had known each other at Cambridge some thirty years before and Blunt had tried to recruit Straight as a spy. Straight, who initially agreed, changed his mind afterwards.

 

Blunt was interrogated by MI5 and confessed in exchange for immunity from prosecution. As he was—by 1964—without access to classified information, he had secretly been granted immunity by the Attorney General, in exchange for revealing everything he knew. Peter Wright, one of Blunt's interrogators, describes in his book Spycatcher how Blunt was evasive and only made admissions grudgingly, when confronted with the undeniable.

 

By 1979, Blunt was publicly accused of being a Soviet agent by investigative journalist Andrew Boyle, in his book Climate of Treason. In November 1979, Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher admitted to the House of Commons that Blunt had confessed to being a Soviet spy fifteen years previously.

 

The term "Five" began to be used in 1961, when KGB defector Anatoliy Golitsyn named Maclean and Burgess as part of a "Ring of Five", with Philby a 'probable' third, alongside two other agents whom he did not know.

 

Of all the information provided by Golitsyn, the only item that was ever independently confirmed was the Soviet affiliation of John Vassall. Vassall was a relatively low-ranking spy who some researchers[who?] believe may have been sacrificed to protect a more senior one.

 

At the time of Golitsyn's defection, Philby had already been accused in the press and was living in Beirut, Lebanon, a country with no extradition agreement with Britain. Select members of MI5 and MI6 already knew Philby to be a spy from Venona project decryptions. Golitsyn also provided other information, such as the claim that Harold Wilson (then Prime Minister of the United Kingdom) was a KGB agent.

 

Golitsyn's reliability remains a controversial subject and as such, there is little certainty of the number of agents he assigned to the Cambridge spy ring. To add to the confusion, when Blunt finally confessed, he named several other people[who?] as having been recruited by him.

 

Blunt wrote his memoirs but insisted they not be released until 25 years after his death. They were made public by the British Museum in 2009. The manuscript indicated that he regretted having passed information to the Soviets because of the way it eventually affected his life, that he believed that the government would never reveal his treachery and that he had dismissed suicide as "cowardly".[18] Christopher Andrew felt that the regret was shallow, and that he found an "unwillingness to acknowledge the evil he had served in spying for Stalin".

 

John Cairncross

John Cairncross was known as a British literary scholar until he was later identified as a Soviet atomic spy. While a civil servant in the Foreign Office, he was recruited in 1937 by James Klugmann to become a Soviet spy. He moved to the Treasury in 1938 but transferred once again to the Cabinet office in 1940 where he served as the private secretary of Sir Maurice Hankey, the Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster at that time. In May 1942, he transferred to the British cryptanalysis agency, the Government Code and Cypher School, at Bletchley Park and then, in 1943, to MI6. Following World War II, it is said that Cairncross leaked information regarding the new NATO alliance to the Soviets.

 

On the basis of the information provided by Golitsyn, speculations raged on for many years as to the identity of the "Fifth Man". The journalistic popularity of this phrase owes something to the unrelated novels The Third Man and The Tenth Man, written by Graham Greene who, coincidentally, worked with Philby and Cairncross during the Second World War.

 

Cairncross confessed to having been a spy for the Soviets, in a 1964 meeting with MI6 that was kept secret for some years. He was given immunity from prosecution.

 

The public became aware of his treachery in December 1979, however, when Cairncross made a public confession to journalist Barrie Penrose. The news was widely publicized leading many to surmise that he was in fact the "fifth man"; that was confirmed in 1989 by KGB agent Oleg Gordievsky who had defected to Britain.

 

His designation as the fifth man was also confirmed in former KGB agent Yuri Modin's book published in 1994: My Five Cambridge Friends: Burgess, Maclean, Philby, Blunt, and Cairncross.

 

Cairncross is not always deemed to have been part of the 'Ring of Five'. Though a student at the University of Cambridge, he only knew Blunt, who was by then teaching modern languages. By 1934, when Cairncross arrived at Cambridge, the other three members of the ring had already graduated.

 

The most important agent talent spotted by Blunt was the Fifth Man, the Trinity undergraduate John Cairncross. Together with Philby, Burgess, Blunt and Maclean, he is remembered by the Center (Moscow KGB Headquarters) as one of the Magnificent Five, the ablest group of foreign agents in KGB history. Though Cairncross is the last of the five to be publicly identified, he successfully penetrated a greater variety of the corridors of power and intelligence than any of the other four.

 

— Christopher Andrew and Oleg Gordievsky, KGB, The Inside Story. "Chapter 6: Sigint, Agent Penetration, and the Magnificent Five from Cambridge (1930–39)"

This reference suggests the KGB itself recognized Cairncross as the fifth man (found by Gordievsky while doing research on the history of the KGB).

 

A few sources, however, believe that the "fifth man" was Victor Rothschild, 3rd Baron Rothschild. In his book The Fifth Man, Roland Perry asserts this claim. After the book was published, former KGB controller Yuri Modin denied ever having named Rothschild as "any kind of Soviet agent". Modin's own book's title clarifies the name of all five of the Cambridge spy group: My Five Cambridge Friends: Burgess, Maclean, Philby, Blunt, and Cairncross by Their KGB Controller. Since Rothschild had died prior to publication of the Perry book, the family was unable to start a libel action.

 

In a 1991 interview with The Mail on Sunday, Cairncross explained how he had forwarded information to Moscow during WWII and boasted that it "helped the Soviets to win that battle (the Battle of Kursk) against the Germans". Cairncross did not view himself as one of the Cambridge Five, insisting that the information he sent to Moscow was not harmful to Britain and that he had remained loyal to his homeland. Unlike many other spies, he was never charged for passing information to Moscow.

 

Attempted coverup

For unknown reasons, Prime Minister Alec Douglas-Home was not advised of Anthony Blunt's spying, although the Queen and Home Secretary Henry Brooke were informed. It was only in November 1979 that then-PM Margaret Thatcher formally advised Parliament of Blunt's treachery and the immunity deal that had been arranged 15 years earlier.

 

A 2015 article in The Guardian discussed "400 top-secret documents which have been released at the National Archives" and indicated that MI5 and MI6 had worked diligently to prevent information about the five from being disclosed, "to the British public and even to the US government".[30] A 2016 review of a new book about Burgess added that "more than 20% of files relating to the spies, most of whom defected more than 50 years ago, remain closed". In conclusion, the review stated that "the Foreign Office, MI6 and MI5 all have an interest in covering up, to protect themselves from huge embarrassment" and that "more taxpayers' money is spent by Whitehall officials in the futile attempt to keep the files under lock and key for ever".

 

Under the 30-year rule, the 400 documents should have been made available years earlier. It was particularly surprising that 20 per cent of the information was redacted or not released. A news item at the time stated that "it is clear the full story of the Cambridge Spies has not yet emerged". A summary of the documents indicated that they showed that "inaction and incompetence on the part of the authorities enabled Guy Burgess and Donald Maclean to make their escape to Moscow".

 

Additional secret files were finally released to the National Archives in 2020. They indicated that the government had intentionally conducted a campaign to keep Kim Philby's spying confidential "to minimise political embarrassment" and prevented the publication of his memoirs according to a report by The Guardian. Nonetheless, the information was publicized in 1967 when Philby granted an interview to journalist Murray Sayle of The Times. Philby confirmed that he had worked for the KGB and that "his purpose in life was to destroy imperialism". This revelation raised concerns that Blunt's spying would also be revealed to the public.

 

Alleged additional members

Some researchers believe the spy ring had more than five, or different, members. Several of the following have been alleged to be possible Soviet spies:

 

Baron Rothschild was named by Roland Perry in his book The Fifth Man. According to Spycatcher, Rothschild had been friendly with Burgess as an undergraduate, and had originally owned the lease on a house off Welbeck Street, No. 5 Bentinck Street, where Blunt and Burgess both lived during the war. This was supposedly confirmed by Yuri Modin, the alleged controller of the five, who—according to Perry—had claimed Cairncross was never part of the group. However in reviewing Perry's book, commentator Sheila Kerr pointed out that as soon as the book came out, Modin denied Perry's version of their discussions (having already stated that the fifth man was Cairncross), and concluded that "Perry's case against Rothschild is unconvincing because of dubious sources and slack methods".

Leonard Henry (Leo) Long was accused by Blunt in 1964. Blunt claimed to have recruited Long to the Communist cause while Blunt was tutor at Cambridge. Long served as an intelligence officer with MI14 from 1940 to 1945, and later with the British element of the Allied Control Commission in Occupied Germany from 1945–1952. Long passed analyses but not original material relating to the Eastern Front to Blunt. Blunt also was associated with other Cambridge persons subsequently involved in espionage (Michael Straight, Peter Ashby, Brian Symon) but they are generally considered as minor figures as compared to the "Cambridge Five".

Guy Liddell was an MI5 officer and nearly rose to become director of the service but was passed over because of rumours he was a double agent; he took early retirement from MI5 in 1953 after he was investigated for his personal links to Kim Philby. He was accused of having been the "fifth man" by Goronwy Rees as part of Rees' confession in 1979. The academic consensus is that he was naïve in his friendships rather than a spy.

Andrew Gow: in his memoirs published in 2012, Brian Sewell suggested that Gow was the "fifth man" and spy master of the group. This suggestion was subsequently refuted by Anthony Powell.

Wilfrid Basil Mann: Mann had been accused on several occasions of being the "fifth man," based on rumored former work at the Embassy and the resemblance between his name and the "Basil" of Boyle's codename. In his memoirs, Mann argued using contemporary correspondence, publications, and verified passport entries that he was incapable of having worked with Donald Maclean in the British Embassy. As part of his hiring at the Bureau of Standards, Mann underwent intense security screening and received a top-level "Q" clearance from the U.S. Atomic Energy Commission.

 

In popular culture

Books

Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy (New York 1974). John le Carré's novelisation of his experiences of the revelations in the 1950s and the 1960s which exposed the Cambridge Five traitors.

A Perfect Spy, by John Le Carré (New York 1986). Events in the life of the character Magnus Pym are partly based upon the life and career of Kim Philby.

From Russia With Love by Ian Fleming contains several references to Burgess and Maclean while Soviet characters discuss then-contemporary espionage related scandals. In Chapter 11, James Bond himself says that what is needed in the atomic age is the 'intellectual spy', before mentioning the treacherous pair directly, though admits to only doing so in order to annoy a superior.

The Untouchable by John Banville. The character Victor Maskell seems to be a combination of Anthony Blunt and poet Louis MacNeice.

In Alan Moore's graphic novel The League of Extraordinary Gentlemen: Black Dossier, there appears a Cambridge Five analogue consisting of the Famous Five from Greyfriars School, including Harry Wharton, who became Big Brother; Bob Kim Cherry (named after Kim Philby), who was also known as Harry Lime and subsequently M or Mother; Francis Alexander Waverly (possibly formerly known as Frank Nugent); and Sir John Night (possibly formerly known as John Bull).

The Fourth Protocol, a novel by Frederick Forsyth uses a fictionalised Kim Philby as a central character, who conspires to smuggle a portable nuclear weapon into Britain.

Burgess, Maclean and Philby appear in the Doctor Who Eighth Doctor Adventures novel Endgame dealing with their defection to Russia.

The Innocent, a novel by Ian McEwan, involves a spy tunnel which the Soviets discover but do not initially expose, similar to the Philby tunnel.

Philby appears in The Other Woman of the Gabriel Allon series by novelist Daniel Silva

The plot of Charles Cumming's 2011 novel, The Trinity Six, is built on the premise that there was a sixth spy and that his existence is being covered up by MI6.

 

Television

The Hour (BBC TV series)

Dennis Potter's television play Traitor (1971) is a spy drama television film that features a central character called Adrian Harris (John Le Mesurier) being interviewed in his Moscow flat by western newspaper reporters, eager to get the story on his defection. Harris appears to be a composite of Philby, Burgess and Maclean. Potter later returned to similar territory with Blade on the Feather (1980), inspired by the unmasking of Anthony Blunt, although in this drama the protagonist Jason Cavendish (Donald Pleasence) is clearly modeled after Philby. Philby is later name-checked as the sports reporter on The Daily Telegraph in Potter's Lipstick on Your Collar (1993), and appears to be giving inside tips on horse-races to officials at the War Office.

The Channel 4 education show KNTV features a character called Burgess MacPhilbin, who provides information for teenagers in the form of a spy dossier.

Philby, Burgess and Maclean was a 1977 Granada Television drama-documentary for ITV,[45][46] re-broadcast on BBC Four in 2007, with Derek Jacobi as Burgess.

Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy, 1979 miniseries adaptation of John le Carré's novel

An Englishman Abroad, 1983 dramatization of Burgess in Russia by Alan Bennett

Blunt: the Fourth Man, 1987 television drama with Anthony Hopkins as Guy Burgess and Ian Richardson as Anthony Blunt.

Cambridge Spies, 2003 BBC drama with Toby Stephens as Kim Philby, Tom Hollander as Guy Burgess, Rupert Penry-Jones as Donald Maclean, Samuel West as Anthony Blunt, and Alastair Galbraith as John Cairncross.

Samuel West reprises his role as Anthony Blunt from Cambridge Spies in The Crown in 2019, in the season three episode titled "Olding".

 

Film

The Jigsaw Man, 1983 film starring Laurence Olivier and Michael Caine. Caine plays a character named Philip Kimberley who returns to England after his defection.

Another Country, 1984 adaptation of the play by Julian Mitchell

A Different Loyalty, 2004 film directed by Marek Kanievska, is inspired by Kim Philby's affair and subsequent marriage to Eleanor Brewer, as well as events leading up to his defection.

Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy, 2011 adaptation of John le Carré's novel

The Imitation Game, 2014 biopic of Alan Turing, includes Allen Leech as John Cairncross; Burgess and Maclean are mentioned in passing.

 

Theatre

A Question of Attribution, 1988 dramatization of Blunt's term as Keeper of the Queen's Pictures; and The Old Country 1977 play about a fictional Philby-esque spy in exile, both by Alan Bennett

Another Country, 1981 play loosely based on Guy Burgess' life by Julian Mitchell

In 2009, Michael Dobbs wrote a short play, Turning Point, for a series of live broadcast TV plays on Sky Arts channel. Based on a 1938 meeting between a young Guy Burgess and Winston Churchill, the play sees Burgess urging Churchill to fight the appeasement policy of the British government. In the live broadcast, Burgess was played by Benedict Cumberbatch.

Kim Philby appears as one of the central antagonists in William F. Buckley's 2004 novel Last Call for Blackford Oakes.

Alan Bennett’s play Single Spies centres around Burgess and Blunt.

Music

 

"Philby", a 1979 composition from Irish blues-rock musician Rory Gallagher and his album Top Priority

 


*Includes pictures

*Includes online resources and a bibliography for further reading

The spy novel emerged from the intrigues of the mid-20th century for good reason. The war with the Third Reich involved an unseen cloak and dagger struggle between the participants, but beyond that, an even larger and longer contest took place in the shadows.

Communism gained its first major foothold in statehood with the success of the Russian Revolution at the end of World War I, a success bizarrely assisted by the massive funding provided to the revolutionaries by some Western businessmen. Armand Hammer’s father Julius, for instance, gave the new Soviet Union $50,000 in gold to back their new currency. In exchange he received asbestos mining and oil concessions, plus a pencil manufacturing monopoly in the USSR lasting until the Stalin era.

Soviet Russia followed a philosophy demanding international, global revolution – which, in practice, often resembled conquest by any means available, direct or indirect. While the Soviets never hesitated to use naked force when it seemed advisable, or when compelled to it by outside attack, they made intensive use of covert operations – spying, assassination, bribery, infiltration of governments and educational systems, the deployment of agents provocateur and “agitprop” – in an effort to weaken other nations from within or possibly cause takeover by a friendly revolutionary regime.

Soviet agents operated in all European countries and others, but their main efforts naturally focused on the strongest potential rivals – Germany, the United States, and Great Britain. Intelligent, persistent, and ruthless, the Soviets succeeded in recruiting a considerable number of agents, including men from the British ruling class.

Their activities enabled the Soviets to capture and execute hundreds, if not thousands, of the opponents of their regime along with numbers of British agents. The men responsible for this unprecedented leaking of life-or-death information would enter history as the Cambridge Five – though in fact, they may have been only the core of a much larger group.

The Cambridge Five: The History and Legacy of the Notorious Soviet Spy Ring in Britain during World War II and the Cold War chronicles the war’s most infamous spy ring and its activities. Along with pictures of important people, places, and events, you will learn about the Cambridge Five like never before.