Swan Songs: Souvenirs of Paris Elegance – October 4,
2021
by Réginald-Jérôme de Mans (Author), voxsartoria (Author)
Paris:
Hidden worlds of elegance, lost scenes of beauty, guarded corners of
craftsmanship. In this evocative, vivid and meticulously illustrated memoir of
one person's pursuit of the most exquisite custom clothing and accessories that
Paris could offer, men’s style essayist Réginald-Jérôme de Mans conjures a
glittering milieu now almost faded from view—from the lost palaces of men’s
elegance to the small, unique workshops of proud craftspeople—revealing
surprising treasures and the surviving keepers of the flame. A snapshot out of
time of hidden artistry, ebbing excellence, and the vagaries of fine taste.
"To
come to the point as quickly as possible, I can't see that another book on the
great 19th, 20th, and on into the 21st Century men's outfitters of Paris -- the
golden names in refined tailoring, shoemaking, and shirtmaking -- will be
necessary for many years now. Swan Songs: Souvenirs of Paris Elegance is, not
to put too fine a point on it, definitive. M. de Mans takes us on a
sophisticated excursion through the streets and boulevards of Paris with an
in-depth look at the legendary shops that catered to -- and in some cases still
do -- the gentleman in us who has a great respect for Old World craftsmanship
and elegance.
Réginald-Jérôme
de Mans' erudite, witty, and highly readable study of these craftsmen of high
elegance in the sartorial trades is not a shopping guide, although it may be
rewardingly used that way. It's rather a history of the esteemed names in the
Parisian world of masculine accoutering. Elegant writing on an elegant subject,
as M. de Mans puts these addresses of men's haute couture into their proper
historical, cultural, and political context. Along the way he meticulously
explains how bespoke garments are laboriously made by these legendary artists
of the needle and tape measure. It's a heritage he celebrates with much love,
not as the oft-told myths of heritage, but as a living culture of traditional
craftsmanship and artistry.
de Mans
describes the ambience of these elegant shops and their neighborhoods in a way
that makes you understand the demise of so many of them is a considerable
tragedy, a way of life seemingly gone in the fragrant twilight smoke of a world
where the turn of a toe cap was a distinguishing feature in a man's appearance
and buttonholes were done by hand. The author has had great experience in this
realm as a longtime customer of these venues and can speak of them with
sureness and authority. These adresses d'or -- Charvet and Smalto, Cifonelli
and Camps de Luca, Old England, Sulka, Anthony Delos, Arnys, Berluti, Pierre
Corthay and the lesser known ones -- have not been written about, to my
knowledge, with such detail, references to the literature, and verve
before."
– G. Bruce
Boyer, author, essayist and all-around mensch
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